Tito Ferradans

Hey man. Check out Tito's FOV calculator; it lets you know whether a lens will (probably) vignette or not: http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8615
wider than 50mm on S35 is difficult with a 2x stretch; 1.5x or 1.33x will give you more options (but obviously less oval bokeh unless you use an oval aperture). the larger the anamorphot's elements, the wider you can go with your taking lens. Hence the popularity of Kowa B&H/8Z/16H/Elmoscope II (all the same build and size). The SLR Magic anamorphot 2x-50 might also get you wider than 50mm but it's expensive and flares blue like crazy. to get a feel for flare colours, try to look up video examples online. The Sankor 16C you mention is nice and sharp, but has mostly blue coatings and thus blue flares. Also, you can ask a seller to take a picture of the lens under an angle with light source overhead to get an idea of the colour of the coatings. the coreDNA will introduce extra vignetting; ask around in this thread for user's experience listed mininum focus distance for the coreDNA is 0.7m; if you need more you can add a diopter in the mix or set both taking lens and anamorphot to minimum focus distance

Hey, it's been a while since I last updated this thread! Lots and lots of new videos and a couple articles.

ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL PROJECTION LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9046
ANAMORPHIC COOKBOOK - BUYING YOUR FIRST ANAMORPHIC LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=8591
CHOP SHOP - 3D PRINTING FOCUS GEARS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9249
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - FM LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9238
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL ANAMORPHIC MOD
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9316
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - BOOSTING UP ANAMORPHIC FLARES
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9329
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ASSEMBLING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9376
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HACKING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9409
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ANAMORFAKE AMBER SET (37/58/85)
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9362
ON A BUDGET - FOTODIOX FUSION ND THROTTLE AUTO ADAPTER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9444
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HELIOS EXTREME MOD MK II
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9379
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PANASONIC LA7200 FILTER HOLDER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7873
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - SCHNEIDER ES CINELUX MC 2X ANAMORPHIC
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9383

Hey, it's been a while since I last updated this thread! Lots and lots of new videos and a couple articles.

ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL PROJECTION LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9046
ANAMORPHIC COOKBOOK - BUYING YOUR FIRST ANAMORPHIC LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=8591
CHOP SHOP - 3D PRINTING FOCUS GEARS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9249
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - FM LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9238
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL ANAMORPHIC MOD
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9316
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - BOOSTING UP ANAMORPHIC FLARES
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9329
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ASSEMBLING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9376
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HACKING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9409
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ANAMORFAKE AMBER SET (37/58/85)
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9362
ON A BUDGET - FOTODIOX FUSION ND THROTTLE AUTO ADAPTER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9444
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HELIOS EXTREME MOD MK II
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9379
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PANASONIC LA7200 FILTER HOLDER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7873
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - SCHNEIDER ES CINELUX MC 2X ANAMORPHIC
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9383

All SOLD.

As expected, the Elmo II is SOLD.

I opened my lens cabinet and realized there's too much in there. Some must go! Lenses will be shipped from Vancouver, BC - Canada.
I only accept PayPal. PayPal's taxes and shipping are my responsibility. 
If interested, reply here, send me a PM, or an email!
ferradans@gmail.com
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ELMOSCOPE II - 2x STRETCH - WITH CUSTOM CLAMP
Photos of this lens - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferradans/albums/72157671771429074
The Elmoscope II is a top notch projection lens. It has 2x stretch and focuses down to 1.5m. The strong stretch factor delivers the famous anamorphic bokeh, and the simple coatings produce yellow-orange warm flares. It works perfectly for shooting 4:3, as the GH4 Anamorphic Mode, or MagicLantern RAW on Canon cameras. Or by cropping the sides of 16:9 footage.
It really shines when attached to a single focus solution (Rectilux or Rangefinder), so you can keep your taking lens and anamorphic set to infinity and do all the focusing on Rectilux or Rangefinder. If not, you'll have to deal with double focus, meaning focusing the anamorphic and the taking lens at the same distance in order to produce a sharp image.
The last photo shows a side by side comparison of both the Elmo II and the Kowa B&H, one of the most desired anamorphic adapters. Many people claim these two are identical, but the Elmo II tends to go for a much lower price while the Kowa fetches around $900 to $1000.
This Elmoscope II is in great shape, with a smooth focus ring and glass in perfect condition. It comes with the original front cap as well as a custom made clamp for support (it has a 1/4" screw for attaching to your camera rig) that lets you set alignment for good instead of realigning every time you switch taking lenses.
PRICE: USD 560 (shipped)
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PANASONIC LA7200 - 1.33x STRETCH - WITH CUSTOM FILTER HOLDER (95mm)
Photos of the lens - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferradans/albums/72157671779697223The
The Panasonic LA7200 is a great anamorphic adapter for starters and for those looking for extreme sci-fi flares and not much work in post.
Stretch is 1.33x, which means any camera shooting 16:9 (1080p or 2160p) will output perfect Cinemascope footage for post, without the need for cropping anything out.
The strong aspects of this lens are how wide you can go (around 28mm on full frame with no vignetting), the futuristic blue streak flares, and the quick and easy setup. It features 72mm threads at the back, so it can easily connect to any lens without the need for additional gear.
Being a fixed focus adapter - it doesn't have a focus ring - you adjust focus using your taking lens, as you would normally without the adapter. Performance isn't great at fast apertures, but sharpens up nicely around f/4.
Glass is in pristine condition, no scratches, dust or fungus. Comes with both front and rear caps as well as the original pouch. This one comes with a custom-made filter holder and 95mm threads for attaching diopters and step rings for other filters.
You can read a detailed review of this lens at my blog!
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7877
PRICE: USD 775 (shipped)
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PANASONIC LA7200 - 1.33x STRETCH - WITH ORIGINAL BOX
Photos of the lens - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferradans/albums/72157675188015976
Same as above, minus the filter holder. This one comes with the original box.
Glass in perfect shape, body with no scuffs, both front and rear caps, original pouch.
The original locking screw was lost and replaced with a different one (can be seen in photos). Works just as well.
PRICE: USD 745 (shipped)

I've been into modding my Russian primes lately and ended up with too many mods. So I'm selling sets of them. Lenses are being shipped from Vancouver - BC (Canada). Payment through PayPal only, and shipping is already included in the price.
These were tweaked to fake the anamorphic look (anamorfake) through the addition of an oval aperture disc, a flare thread INSIDE the lens and tinting of various bits and pieces to make them unique. I have two sets. One with polished glass, resulting in less contrast, more bloom and a more diffused look overall, and a non-polished set, in which I didn't alter the original glass for better contrast and color rendition. I'm keeping one of my non-polished sets, so now you know which one is my favorite.
The tint applied is amber, for an endless magic hour.
Since nobody buys weird optics without seeing tests first I took them around the block for another sunset - not as dramatic as the Helios'. Color correction has been kept to a minimum (curves for contrast and boosted up saturation, since I shot at SLog3).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLZkIlnzjYM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lrl1ZejekY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3OEBmrBdVU
AMBER 3-LENS SET (polished or unpolished)
Photos of the lenses - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferradans/sets/72157675191311296
Tech specs: Each set consists of three lenses, Mir 1B (37mm f/2.8 - aprox f/4), Helios 44-2 (58mm f/2 - aprox f/2.8) and Jupiter 9 (85mm f/2 - aprox f/2.8). The second aperture values are because of the oval disc inside, which limits maximum light transmission. They all feature 49mm filter threads, non-rotating front element while focusing, clickless (preset) aperture rings. All lenses come with front and rear caps. Focus and iris rings are smooth. Multiple elements and inner parts have amber accents for flaring and tone. All three lenses have oval aperture discs inside (while maintaining fully operational apertures) and inner red flare threads for better anamorfaking. They're natively M42 mount, but come with a rotating M42 to EF adapter so you can realign the oval and flare according to your wishes. Lenses are fitted with seamless focus gears. The Mir 1B has also been modified for a little bit more of close focusing. As for the original lenses, they're all non-MC models with black bodies.
PRICE: USD600 (shipped)
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HELIOS 44 MODDED. AMAZING CONDITION
Photos of the lens - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferradans/albums/72157671783410163
In the process of making these, I came across a VERY GOOD, warm coated Helios 44 (not 44-2) that I modded too.I'm selling this one separately from the other modded Helios 44-2 for a few reasons. First, because this is a Helios 44, predecessor to the 44-2.
Second, mechanical condition. This is the smoothest and nicest feeling Helios I've ever had. I fought the idea of selling it for almost three months, but since I don't use it, it has to go. There's a bit of oil on the blades, but nothing that affects performance.
Third, the golden coatings. While most Helios are either neutral or blue/purple-ish, this one has a strong amber tint. I considered harvesting the glass for a mod, but I also couldn't bring myself to do it as it would be hard to match it with other coatings. Since the coatings are so nice, I didn't polish it at all, or modded its inner parts. All I added was a subtle oval aperture with light orange tint and a light orange (almost beige) streak thread inside, to fake the anamorphic look and give it a colorful spin when light sources are inside the frame. The original aperture still works perfectly.
The lens comes with a M42 to EF adapter and rear cap. The front thread was slightly bent so I jammed a thin 49-52mm step-up ring to fix the issue.
Lastly, another upgrade from the standard mods, this one comes with seamless follow focus gears. Silver to match the lens. These were designed and 3d-printed by myself, and are tightly fit to the lens.
Both front and rear elements have a few marks, but nothing that shows up in the resulting images. Very sharp at maximum aperture - I'm repeating myself - this is one of the best Helios I came across.
It has a more subtle effect and tint, but the images follow the same base as the ones posted above.
PRICE: USD165 (shipped)
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LASTLY, if you don't wanna buy one, you can make your own by following my tutorials.
Helios Mod Part 1 - http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8920
Helios Mod Part 2 - http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9379

Agree.  IMO, ELMOSCOPE-II has more value than KOWA B&H lens.

That's a super cheap price on the Elmo, it's worth more than those other two imo.

No problem. Make drawings for your case, 3d-print frames and mounts for your configuration. You may also add bellows. Necessary before printing CHECKS all sizes to fit your lens and mount for your configuration. 3D complete filling for printing. For frames solid plastic (ABS), for mount more plastic plastic (HIPS)
 

Hi, I´m paquito.

I start this post, because i have a questions about what to do with these lens unmounted ( attached  photo). I have unmounted them, because the structure was broked and i must to do that. My question is , if i can mount them attached to a bellow ( https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Macro-Bellows-Nikon-Camera/dp/B003EDYDVM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476296019&sr=8-2&keywords=bellow+camera) and mounted on a rig (specially adapt or hook the lens to the structure) or if you know the way to mount on a structure even lighter than the previous were mounted. Thanks a lot to you in advance (specially to Tito Ferradans. I didn´t find the person who post this, so i post then)

There`s Canon's EF 40mm pancake, which is one of my favorite combinations with almost any anamorphic so far.

Here's the review for the modified version!
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9316

Here's the review for the modified version!
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9316

It depends whether your diopter is bubble-like or not. If it's flat, go for it.

The B&H is a fantastic lens but requires some gymnastics to really get the most out of it.  I'm pretty proud of the mod and I believe it optimizes the B&H to its fullest potential.  Tito will be posting a review of it tomorrow.  In summary, to duplicate my lens modification, read through this entire thread carefully before starting.  You should have the following items:
B&H 16mm 2x Anamorphic Lens 58mm Helicoid.  You can use a 52mm but the 58mm diameter allows a closer fit,  The downside is you'll need to fabricate a retainer ring for the front glass element. Telescope Finderscope Clamp Lens Support Bracket Tap & Die Kit Cyanoacrylate adhesive Drill or Drill Press, and Table Vice 3D Printer ABS Filament Materials for making the polyurethane mold Silicone & Polyurethane Casting Material.  I recommend polyurethane Shore D Hardness; 75 (about the same durability as a construction hard hat) 58mm Lens Cap, and cap to fit over the silver Series VII Ring Matte Black Paint, Brush, and Thinner Degreaser and Lithium Grease Sandpaper / Cloth / Finishing Materials Gorilla Tape.  Not necessary but a little added protection around the polyurethane Epoxy NAPHTHA and Lens Tissue Micro Tools / Micro Screwdriver Set Digital Caliper with 0.01mm tolerance Expect to replace some parts during fabrication, like iterating the custom mold for the front housing, or breaking a helicoid, or throwing out a lot of failed 3D printing attempts.  Here is a breakdown of the labor steps required to produce the finished product:
Disassembling, re-greasing, and reassembling the heiicoid (helicoids bought off eBay come with poor quality, low viscosity grease). Removing the original front housing and front glass element. Thinning the matte black paint and painting the edge of the front glass element.  If you are lucky, your B&H's front element may already be painted. Combining the lens support with the telescope bracket.  The Cyanoacrylate creates a temporary bond between the bracket & clamp, allowing to you drill & tap the hole for the screw that will hold them together permanently Making the mold for the front housing.  Lots of trial-and-error here, make sure to read a lot about how to make molds. This is where your McGuyver skills and a trip to Home Depot comes in. Casting the polyurethane for the front housing.  Again, some homework is required here, planning, and a tightly sealed mold! 3d Printing an alignment collar for the helicoid to fit on the polyurethane front housing, the retaining ring to hold the glass element in the helicoid, and the follow focus gear. Assembling and gluing all the fabricated parts.  Make sure everything fits properly before applying that epoxy! Fit & finish (sanding, polishing, cleaning, etc.) Adjusting the bracket height, the anamorphic alignment and calibrating infinity focus Reviewing test footage to confirm the lens is ready for shooting If you’re doing this for the first time, expect to spend at least 1-2 weeks putting this together.  Honestly, even with all the information in this thread I think it will take longer than that.  If you have a full time job, expect the process to take a few months.  This is not a short-term project, it requires immense patience, but the rewards are excellent!  When finished, what you achieve — and I’m typing it again, because it bears repeating — are the following features:
Single-focus Infinity focus Follow focus gear for rack-focusing, with a generous throw that allows for precise focus Re-greased helicoid for smooth focus action  Minimum focus of just under 1m for the 14mm helicoid version, and just under 30cm for the 30mm helicoid version (that is the closest focus of ANY anamorphic I know of). Beautiful 2x bokeh Superb, stable 15mm rail support that locks in alignment and reduces the time between switching taking lenses Nylon alignment screws that won’t scratch the anamorphic Compact and lightweight (the modded B&H + custom bracket = 866g. In comparison, a 16H + Rangefinder is 880g without the lens clamp, filter clamp, and rail support) 58mm front thread for diopters or ND filters, and a Series VII rear thread The side of the front element is painted matte black to reduce internal barrel reflection and preserve the amazing flares Reversibility: The custom front housing can be removed and replaced with the original housing An ideal anamorphic for micro four-thirds filmmakers I encourage any B&H owner to do this mod.  The question you must ask yourself is how much time and money you’re willing to spend to get to a final, usable product.  If you have a lot of the equipment already (especially the 3D printer, tap & die kit, etc.) or your own workshop, you will save some money.
But for those who don’t have the time or resources, I will be selling my mods for around $1000 (depending on the quality of the original glass, and whether it’s a 14mm or 30mm helicoid).  Some of you may think this is expensive, but considering all the work that goes into it, and the value of all the features listed above, I believe this is a fair price.
This is a complete, turnkey anamorphic solution: You put the B&H mod on rails with your camera, and start shooting.  No other purchases are necessary.  If you are interested please message me, I will be be putting the mods up on eBay once Tito has sold his,
Some of the proceeds will help me recoup the parts & materials I went through during R&D.  Some will go to purchasing a lens from Tito (which will help fund his efforts).  Some of it will go towards my next project: modifying the Bausch & Lomb Projection lens.  I will add the same level of detail and information to that thread as I've done here.
I'm not trying to turn this thread into an advertisement for my mod.  I’d love to see other B&H owners continue innovating, modifying, testing, shooting, and posting to this thread to find new ways to get the most out of this great piece of glass!  I will continue to answer questions where I can, but I expect my participation on this thread will wane as I turn my eye towards my next projection lens project 
Keep on modding!

Hi froboy88, thanks! 
I can't say for certain about s35 since I only have an m43 camera.  You can use Tito's calculator or maybe this one to help you figure it out.  My best guess is that cropping or using 4:3 mode to get a 2:66:1 ratio on the B&H, you would not get vignetting with a 75mm lens on an s35 sensor.

I'm not sure where you're interpreting this from.
 
It can't be done in a weekend for 130€.  Not even close
 
It's not unreasonable to ask 1000 CAD for:
Single-focus Rack-focus Infinity focus Minimum focus under 1m 2x bokeh Fantastic flares Excellent 15mm rail support / alignment Compact and lightweight Considering the great condition of Tito’s B&H glass, I think he should be asking $1000 USD.  It is a turnkey solution.
 
Tito, did you adjust the front by (un)screwing slightly?  I was able to get much better results after that calibration.  It took a little trial-and-error, but if you have the camera connected to a monitor, you can fine-tune it fairly quickly.
 
 
 
 

By "another" you mean me?  (since I posted mine yesterday).

No worries...I think maybe we’re both talking about two different goals / approaches?  It sounds like you’re seeking a single-focus solution for your Baby H and Sankyoscope?
Whereas my goal was to find ways to make the B&H user-friendly for filmmaking.  When modified according to the information found throughout this thread, you can turn the B&H into a single-focus, close-focus, rack-focus, sharp-focus, lightweight, 2x anamorphic solution with fantastic flares and a warm, organic cinematic feel.  On a micro four-thirds camera, the B&H will accept a 55mm or 58mm taking lens with little or no vignetting (or a slightly wider taking lens if you’re shooting in 4:3 mode).
I could have bought a 'proper' single-focus module, but where’s the fun in that?  One advantage is my modification is compact and lighter than a B&H with a SF module attached to it.  I definitely didn’t save any money doing the modification...at first.  But now that I have modified several B&H’s, I can make them more quickly and efficiently.  But the biggest advantage I gained was the amount I learned over the course of the prototyping - I look forward to hearing about what you learn in your pursuits!
Excellent!  I've been so focused on my goals that it didn't occur to me about other potential uses for the B&H.  It's great that you're thinking about other ways to get utility out of this anamorphic... definitely post back here with your findings!
Best,
|. . | .|

70.6mm standard rear thread, as all the big 35mm film projector lens.

I like the silver Helios! hahahaha
Great job, man. Shooting the tests with the mod was the most fun I had in a while! Video comes out this weekend.

Hate me, but... Get both.
the vari-str will let you rack focus, while strong power diopters will solve your super close focus issue (+1 and +2). You switch between them (vari and regular) according to the shots. My guess is that you'll keep the variable on for most of the time.
The difference between the Rangefinders is indeed what @IshootbeforeItalk said, size. And the markings. SLR Magic wanted to have a really cheap option out there. Small correction though, the minimum focus for the Recilux CoreDNA is 0.7m, but 0.5m for the 3FF-W.
Lastly, I know you watched, but it works as a reminder, how to get a cheap 72mm +0.5
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9053

A small update to B&H modding: I’ve been using the silver Series VII ring that comes on the back of most B&H’s found on eBay.  I made a polyurethane version for Tito since his did not come with one.  The ring is great for adapting to whatever taking lens you’re using.
On a whim I decided to take off the silver ring to see if I could get my Helios any closer to the back of the anamorphic.  Here’s the back of the B&H without the silver ring.

Since my Helios has a diameter of less than 61mm (which is the inner diameter of my support bracket), I was able to slide it closer so that the back of the B&H is actually sitting inside the taking lens.  


So the series VII ring isn’t necessarily needed in all situations. It doesn’t necessarily improve the resulting image either, but it is a snug fit.

In other cases, like if you have a taking lens with a 72mm thread, I would definitely recommend a 72mm-to-S7 adapter to ensure that your lenses are locked, light-sealed, and centered.
On Tito’s advice, I also took a 3D file for a follow focus ring, altered it, and fit it around the helicoid of my B&H mods.  It’s a much easier process than hand-gluing focus strips, and the results are a little nicer looking too.

Cheers,
|. . | .|

I also want to thank Tito for all his amazing posts & work - I wouldn't have gotten nearly as far with my work without it.  Thanks!!!