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Everything posted by roccoforte

  1. I bought mine for $900 and sold for the same in 2014. Good condition. Good luck.
  2. Hyperbole, fearmongering, exaggerations. This reads like a clickbaity Breitbart article.
  3. Interesting. How does this camera compare to the Sony a6500?
  4. Hey - sorry for the late reply. I think it took about two weeks in total (from L.A.)
  5. Yeah, I shipped my Bolex 8/19/1.5 to Bernie at super16inc.com in New York. It came back in good shape.
  6. (Just for the record, I sold the Iscorama in my above post)
  7. It's up on Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/332191032492?
  8. I consider the condition to be very good, though I'm no optical engineer. There are no serious blemishes, haze, marks on the glass - aside from a few tiny specs that you’d expect with a vintage lens (none of which affect the image as far as I can tell). It's sharp, the focus is smooth and flares a gorgeous orange flare with good light source. Used with the Tokina achromat, it’s WOW. Here’s everything: - Iscorama Pre 36 anamorphic lens - Iscorama taking lens with Nikon mount - Tokina 72mm +0.4 achromat with original box and leather case. Ex+ condition - Variable ND filter 77mm with 72-77 step up ring AND 1.2 ND filter - Large custom built step up ring 52-55mm for mounting on other lenses, that aren’t the Iscorama taking lens. - Original lens cap (for collection) 72mm - but it doesn't really stay on - OPTIONAL: 55mm 1.8 SMC Takuma (the maximum focal distance for full frame). - New, better lens cap for use 72mm and rear Nikon lens cap for Iscorama taking lens - A nice sturdy Pelican Case! Well taken care of by photographer / filmmaker in L.A. Stored in pelican case most of the time. I’ll put into up on Ebay for 3000 later, but on here for 2800 USD. L.A. pickup would be great. For now US only. I can also throw in a nice SMC Takumar 55mm (M42) lens which is really nice for full frame cameras, if you like. IMAGES OF PACKAGE: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/okvsr4bansktc4d/AABCTfxwEz2syFr9KM57FJO5a?dl=0 IMAGES TAKEN WITH LENS (Note, these are actual photographs, not video stills. Can provide un graded / un stretched if desired. Various taking lenses used): https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t6e5jhhot87cg9v/AAArfIe9R3FArcTzkDdDUbCSa?dl=0 Good luck!
  9. I actually have an Iscorama pre 36 plus Tokina 0.4 achromat for sale. PM me for details (I haven't gotten around to photographing it yet).
  10. Adding film grain in post is a creative choice. Saying that it's "out of style" might be correct but grain should be used by a talented director where a clean look isn't appropriate and a grainy look is. Saying it's not longer in vogue is claiming that all films should be shot with a clean look in mind, which simply isn't true, even if some think it might be going out of style, because it's one of many creative choices the filmmakers have in their arsenal.
  11. What's the maximum focal length this anamorphot covers?
  12. They have to change that name now, surely ;o)
  13. As it happens, I have paired this lens with a bolex anamorphot. It's "OK" - definitely sharp but you get ugly flares because of the modern multi-coating and I always get a crap ton of purple fringing with new Zeiss's.
  14. Interesting, I hadn't considered a zoom lens. I'm leaning towards the Mir 1b 35mm (although they all seem to be multicoated) and/or Olympus OM F2 35mm for APS-c. Reading a lot of complaints about the Takumar 35mm though. I do like the look of the auto-Takumar 50 for FF. Thanks for the input everyone!
  15. I've been experimenting with a bunch of older M42 and M-Mount lenses on Sony's, including: SMC Takumar 50 1.4, Auto Takumar 55 1.8, Helios 44-2 1.8, Leica 90 Summicron 2.0 and others. They all seem great but what's the "general consensus" about taking lenses for the Iscorama? As I understand it, modern or multi-coated are considered not as good; why is this? Does this include the SMC Takumars? What's the sharpest and "cleanest" 50mm for full frame or 35mm for APS-C? Any info appreciated. Thanks
  16. No mater what, you have to adjust both lenses. What I do (or did before I got the Rectilux) is estimate the distance to the object, set both lenses to that distance, then tweak them both until it's sharp.
  17. Right on. I've been using the 90mm Summicron 2.0 with the Moller 1.5. Very nice but 90 is the widest I can go on FF with that.
  18. Stunning. Really nice colors. Love the Leica Summicrons. So is the widest you can go on full frame with the Iscorama 35mm?
  19. I have the Bolex Moller 8/19/1.5 and use it with a Rectilux and it’s very sharp indeed. Particularly if I add on a Tokina Achromat 0.4, and good lighting. Hair on the nose sharp. Focus wise, it's very good although I cannot use a follow focus with the Rectilux because the whole focus ring moves in and out as you pull focus. Before I had the Rectilux, I actually didn't pull focus. What I did was set my focal point and stay there until it was time for a new shot, using hand-held and moving the camera back and forth (slowly) to readjust focus. Run n gun. The $300 MustHD monitor is good because it’s cheap and you can record and play back at the 1.5 aspect ratio of the Bolex. Very cool. Now all I need is a project to shoot!
  20. It annoys the crap out of me because I think "ooo look, aspect ratio change" instead of "ooo look what the character is doing"
  21. Just a few years ago, there were no single focus solutions for dual-focus anamorphic lenses. Now all of a sudden we have the Rectilux, Focus Module and SLR Rangefinder. It seems that the physics of the lenses is relatively straightforward so why did no-one make / sell one of these things earlier than 2014? Is it simply demand?
  22. I love the sharpness of my Rectilux 3FF, but I dislike the feel of the focussing; very raw and metallic. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to make it smoother / tighter?
  23. Does it matter on what lens you place a diopter? For example, would a 52mm diopter placed on the end of the taking lens give the same results as an equivalent 72mm diopter placed on the end of the anamorphic? Thanks for any info!
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