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Had a fun time trying out my X-M5 micro cinema rig on a low budget, 3 day music video shoot last week. No overheating or issues of any kind shooting 6.2k prores raw in open gate mode to an Ninja V+. Insane what this little guy can do for an $800 purchase (body).

Yes, this is how HSS works. I'm not sure why you're describing it to me. I already acknowledged that some people are opposed to it. I also have some not-especially-expensive Godox/Flashpoint strobes that I've used to HSS in direct sunlight before with relatively wide apertures. They're about the size of an extended soda can. It seems like you read about 30% of what I write and and then respond to that instead of reading and understanding fully. I will repeat for you that the 100MP sensor that is used in this camera and the GFX is simply incapable of reading out 100 megapixels 24 times per second. It doesn't matter of Hasselblad want to try cooling it for that or not. It's just not an option. Otherwise, arguments against rolling shutter or alternative sensor readouts are silly. Many vendors do it and many people use their cameras successfully without complaint. And Hasselblad haven't had a reputation for the highest image quality in a long time. That crown went to companies like Phase One years ago. Once again, try reading every word that I say before responding. I am aware that Hasselblad have a small number of lenses that are price-competitive with the Fujinons. My statement was "Do prepare to break out the wallet, though, since many of the lenses cost 20-50% more than the equivalent Fujinon lens" - that's because if I go to B&H right now and search for Hasselblad lenses, I find that many of them are in the $4,000-5,000 range. The most expensive Fujinons are in the $3,000-3,500 range. You can also adapt a bunch of less expensive lenses to Fuji thanks to the focal plane shutter, where the Hasselblad will require the use of the slowest possible rolling shutter for any lens without a leaf shutter.` Are you talking about the fact that some lenses change focus slightly when stopping down the aperture? Because that's easily solved by just focusing at the aperture you plan to use (I also do this with some Canon camera/lens combos because the plane of sharpest focus seems to shift a little bit when stopping down). Otherwise, that sounds like absolute nonsense. I've done a number of timelapses with my GFX 100 and 100 II and the focus stays right where it should. And when using autofocus with GF lenses, when the autofocus hits right (less than people accustomed to Canon or Sony would expect), it's ridiculously razor sharp. This all really sounds like the usual toxic internet crap where somehow one of the best camera systems in existence is deemed "insufficient" by some troll whose only exposure to the camera comes from YouTube.

Awesome! I like mines and love the fact that I can record on Open Gate 6.2K. I can’t wait to get a monitor for that as well.

Serious landscape shooters don't need IBIS, but they improved it to 10 stop! Landscape shooters always shoot raw, but they added HDR Jpeg! Studio shooters shoot in controlled lighting environment, but they added LIDAR that helps in a random dark street! All the improvements, and even pricing, are in the direction of making MF mainstream, not serving the niche, yet it doesn't video, which is the key to become mainstream.

I love this thread. Keep em coming. If only the Canon FD 35 105 was not prone to gnarly focussing after several years of use due to ball bearings covered with desolving rubber. There is a very compact 38 to 100mm F3.5 under the Hanimex label, which I really like using for personal filming. Mine has a FD mount. I used to have a video uploaded showing this lens in action, which I shared here before. Vimeo deleted it along with 60 other videos when I canceled my plus account, because they deleted all groups and destroyed the whole community. I really need to read into Nikon glass. All these different versions leave me puzzled.:) @mercer

Nice!! Good call having that HDMI clamp by the way!