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ReinisK

Stabilized lenses for NX?

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Hi guys!

I've got a new gimbal and really need a stabilized lens for that. I've got the 18-200, which has stabilization, but the image is not the best and I would like a wider lens, too.

So the real question is - does anyone know of some adapter, which could enable IS on canon lenses? Or maybe some other lenses?

I don't need AF or aperture control, I just need stabilization.

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There is NO ADAPTER supporting stabilization of a third party (non Samsung) lens when mounted on a Samsung camera. To get stabilization, you have to use a native lens.

The Samsung 16-50mm f/2.0-2.8 OIS is threfore a phantastic lens,  the Samsung 50-150mm f2.8 s ED OIS is great too.

For wide shots it's the Samsung 16-50mm f/2.0-2.8 OIS you need, if you need a stabiized lens.

When using a gimbal - as you say in your post - and need a wide lens, simply use the Samyang/(Rokinon/Walimex 12mm 2.0 manual lens without stabilization - it works great with a well calibrated gimbal, after some practice when walking and holding or operating the gimbal. Have fun!

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Whatever he said. Also, I have used the cheap 16-50 pz lens, and is very good on a gimbal (Ronin) if you do not go on the extremes (I start from 18mm, and 5.6f).

I have the 18-200 and seriously, is the worst NX lens ever, the 16-50 PZ and 50-200 are vastly superior to that lens, and probably cost less.

I carry mine for holidays, or very messy day light jobs that I do not want to push my better lenses (shooting in the sea, snow and mud).

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4 hours ago, Arikhan said:

There is NO ADAPTER supporting stabilization of a third party (non Samsung) lens when mounted on a Samsung camera. To get stabilization, you have to use a native lens.

The Samsung 16-50mm f/2.0-2.8 OIS is threfore a phantastic lens,  the Samsung 50-150mm f2.8 s ED OIS is great too.

For wide shots it's the Samsung 16-50mm f/2.0-2.8 OIS you need, if you need a stabiized lens.

When using a gimbal - as you say in your post - and need a wide lens, simply use the Samyang/(Rokinon/Walimex 12mm 2.0 manual lens without stabilization - it works great with a well calibrated gimbal, after some practice when walking and holding or operating the gimbal. Have fun!

@ReinisK Actually, my guess is that the new Aputure DEC-based NX-L adapter/speedbooster that @lucabutera has created would definitely support image stabilization, at least from Canon lenses. 

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I was hoping of some unpopular adapter, like aputure DEC, which has it's own power and really doesn't need a camera. I know there are no electronic adapters that fit the nx mount, but maybe there are some standalone lens controllers, which can control Eos lenses, for example.

Actually, while writing this post, I just remembered, that I have an old and buggy eos film camera, and it can control IS! Looks like it will finally be useful to something else than messing up film shots :)

Kisaha, could you post some examples of the cheap 16-50 zoom? I was also thinking of it, but I figured it wouldn't be much better than the 18-200.

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@ReinisK  I do not usually post jobs on the internet, for various reasons. The 2 lenses I mentioned are much better than a 18-200, but the 18-200 is more versatile because you do not change lenses, for daytime it is ok for most low budget jobs. One great thing about the 18-200 is the fast touch AF on day time. For some reason it may be one of the most efficient AF touch for NX.

The IS on both lenses is really good, I am not sure if it is any better than the 18-200, I would say it is equal. The PZ is also very small and very light, so can even put on a smaller one hand gimbal (I used mine on the big Ronin though). If you really want to upgrade you should consider the S lenses. Everything is much superior on these lenses, and still can be used on the bigger one handed gimbals (Crane 2, maybe Crane V2, the new Ronin - S for sure).

@keessie65 has a whole video with it, isn't that enough?

I do not understand what are you going to do with the old EOS camera.

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On 1/26/2018 at 5:08 AM, ReinisK said:

Hi guys!

I've got a new gimbal and really need a stabilized lens for that. I've got the 18-200, which has stabilization, but the image is not the best and I would like a wider lens, too.

So the real question is - does anyone know of some adapter, which could enable IS on canon lenses? Or maybe some other lenses?

I don't need AF or aperture control, I just need stabilization.

I think it terms of stabilization it's important to have a realistic expectation when it comes to real world use. Nothing is a silver bullet solution.

Using stedicams and motorized gimbals are not an end solution, considerable practice and correct posture (knees bent) are still very much part of getting smooth shots, even coupled with OIS and IBIS. 

Even using optical and digital stabilization the camera can still pick up micro vibrations, which becomes more pronounced on longer lens'. That's why most ppl prefer to use wide as it produces less preceived parallax on the X and Y in your image. Also, infinity focus is prefered on systems that don't have good AF. 

The truth is if you're after that "Hollywood level smooth" you need to be on dolly/slider cranes/jibs, and drone systems.

I couple my Zhiyun crane mounted on a shock absorbed boom connecting to a vest. I also use the native Samsung 16-50mm S lens with OIS (quite good) and use good posture techniques. Even with all this, I will still get occasional vibrations that naturally come with walking.

Don't assume Warp Stabilizer in post will solve all issues, in fact it can often make your footage look worse. Serious jello. It's to be used lightly. 

Practice and multiple takes are key. I think if you set yourself up with the expectation that stabilizers and OIS/IBIS are going to be all you need to deliver buttery smooth shots you're in for some disapointment. 

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The steadicam walk is no stranger for me, as I've been practising it in different situations for more than 4 years.

Warp stabilizer is also one of my best friends since it first came out in Premiere CS6.

If I add warp stabilizer to the footage, at 10-15mm it comes out pretty nice, at around 35mm it's ok. But before warp stabilizer there are little shakes all the time, which make the footage unusable, if warp stabilizer is not used on it afterwards. On a stabilized lens it is much better.

I'm sure I definitely need to do a better job calibrating the motor power, but stabilization in lenses is something that I wish I had for other purposes too, not only gimbal use.

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Ah, OK...

The "little shakes" you mention are a kind of micro-jitter...There are some ways to get rid of this.

As you know, the NX1 can produce razor sharp footage in 4K. BUT...sometimes you can get some micro-jitter when moving and panning....

What you can do to avoid:

  • don't pan fast when shooting 4K - try to pan smooth
  • put a piece of mouse pad (cut one in the shape you want) between gimbal plate and camera, this will be a SUBSTANTIAL improvement. A piece of 1-2mm thick mouse pad is a cheap and ideal buffer to improve vertical shake
  • when you shoot 25p, try to stay low with shutter - at about 1/40 or (depending on what you shoot) even lower
  • put a ND filter on your lens - I use the Tiffen and the Breakthrough VND...
  • use internal (software based) stabilization. Yeah, I know it crops, it's not great, but it still helps with micro jitter

I shoot like this with the manual unstabilized Samyang 12mm f2.0 and have no problems...Consider that this combination is one of the sharpest combinations you can get on the market, when shooting wide angle at f5.6 or even f8.0...Gimbal is Moza Air...

Of course the 16-50 kit lens and the 16-50 S are stabilized and a better solution to get more stabilized footage, but both of them are far away from the wide angle, general optical quality and color reproduction of the 12mm Samyang, when stopped down to f5.6....With this lens you will get unmatched resolution and detail at a very wide angle - edge to edge spectacular resolution, even during camera/shooter movement...

Have fun!

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I have both versions of the 16-50 and they're great.

The PZ has really fast AF and the stabilizer is great. 

It's really, really sharp.

I can probably grab some footage for you, but I'm sure it's much sharper than the 18-200.

Although not stabilized, the samsung 12-24 is actually an awesome lens too. I've been loving mine this past year.

Not insanely rugged, but It's image and versatility are both very nice.

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5 hours ago, Arikhan said:

put a piece of mouse pad (cut one in the shape you want) between gimbal plate and camera, this will be a SUBSTANTIAL improvement. A piece of 1-2mm thick mouse pad is a cheap and ideal buffer to improve vertical shake.

Great tip! I'm definitely going to try this. It makes me wonder why the gimbal manufacturers don't offer this as part of the product build. Most gimbals I've seen the rubber is so thin it's virtually metal on metal. 

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On my gimbal there seems to be decent amount of rubber between the camera and metal, but I guess I'll try that, thanks!

I would love to get the Samyang 12mm f2.0, have been thinking of it for a while, but on nx mount it seems to be more expensive, than m43 or e-mount. Also not a lot of them available. Will probably get it one day, when I get rid of my Tamron 10-24.

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6 hours ago, ReinisK said:

On my gimbal there seems to be decent amount of rubber between the camera and metal, but I guess I'll try that, thanks!

I would love to get the Samyang 12mm f2.0, have been thinking of it for a while, but on nx mount it seems to be more expensive, than m43 or e-mount. Also not a lot of them available. Will probably get it one day, when I get rid of my Tamron 10-24.

I'll sell you mine. In excellent condition. $200 plus ship. Where are you? 

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On 1/30/2018 at 1:47 AM, ReinisK said:

On my gimbal there seems to be decent amount of rubber between the camera and metal, but I guess I'll try that, thanks!

I would love to get the Samyang 12mm f2.0, have been thinking of it for a while, but on nx mount it seems to be more expensive, than m43 or e-mount. Also not a lot of them available. Will probably get it one day, when I get rid of my Tamron 10-24.

Everything is in top perfect order. I take extremely good care of my equipment. 

I'm also selling the Rokinon 135mm f2 as well for $400 if you're interested? 

Shipping for both to Latvia from the U.S., will cost between $60-$100. 

Both are pictured together below

 

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