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Found 10 results

  1. Hello, I am new to this forum (first post) and beginner filmaker and I will need advice ... Last June I started shooting for my documentary project on the local natural heritage, for now with my own money, so my gear is rather light... I'm shooting with a Canon Eos 70D DSLR, outdoor, and i'm shooting the natural spaces of a valley (along a river). At the start I wanted to film in RAW with Magic Lantern, but with my 70D i'm stuck in 720p (for a continuous recording), so finally i've shot in a compressed way, Mpeg-4 All-I 8bit 4:2:0 @1080p 29.97fps with a picture style (EOSHD C-LOG (0,-4,-4,2)) + Vari ND Filter, hoping to get myself out of it even in post-prod ... But here the quality of the images, in a context of shooting outdoors in shaded places very contrasted (...), do not satisfy me ! So I would like to have advice to achieve a higher quality outdoor shots (natural light)? To illustrate my purpose you can see these few shots that I graded in Resolve + corrections in After Effects: https://vimeo.com/alexandrewebercom/riviereardeche The third shot is particularly ugly ... - Have I "pushed" the mpeg-4 too far by color grading it or is it simply the limitations of this compression? - How do I do with hyper contrast scenes (it was about 14h when shooting)? - Am I condemned to film in RAW whatever the chosen camera (to be able to uncork the blacks or to recover in the whites in post-prod)? - Is it better that I under-expose or over-expose this type of scene? - Can you suggest gear/ configuration more suitable for my use: Camera, Raw / Prores, Log, external recording ... ? Thanks a lot !
  2. The guys from ColorGradingCentral have a very good reputation among FCP X users. Let's hope this isn't just hot air ... PS: Wrong forum.
  3. Right in this tutorial I show how easy it is to do tracking in Davinci Resolve. Very handy if you want to add some exposure to a moving object or actor’s face! Thanks for watching! R
  4. Hi, I'm new to this forum, after a while of reading I decided to put my first post. I have always worked with the Canon 60D, and premiere pro CS6/CC. Now I bought Panasonic GH4 and i'm a little lost with the workflow. My PC: i7 3930k Asus P9x79 WS GTX 670 2GB 32GB RAM 1600 Storage: C: 256GB Samsung 840 PRO (Os / App) D: 2x Caviar Black 1TB RAID 0 (Media / Projects) E: Caviar Black 1TB (Export ) F: 256GB Samsung 840 PRO (Media Cache) G:Caviar Green 1TB (D: Backups) H Caviar Green 500GB (Music, movies, etc.) Dell U3014 I tried to work with 24p Cinema 4k. Goes well, but applying any effect, it is very slow. When I export to h.264 4k 24p, takes a long time, the CPU goes only to 27% and the RAM to 11GB ... I do not know why not use more. Here are my questions: 1. Which would be the best workflow for working with 4K files? Proress, DNxHD ...? Proxies? The final product will almost always exported at 1080p, only in some cases to 4k for now. So if there are two workflows would seem interesting to me also. 2. After the editing, workflow to move to color grading in Resolve? 3. Better combination for external backups? Any other advice will be of great help. Excuse my English. Thanks
  5. Hi there, I am primarily a stills photographer and so am very comfortable with the Lightroom sliders for changing the hue, saturation and luminance of individual colours (ie. this). I also quite like the Clarity slider. When it comes to video grading in Premiere Pro / After Effects, I am ok with the control I have over highlights, shadows, etc. However I can't find any effect with similar colour controls to Lightroom. Most of it is either sweeping changes to the whole image or individual channels (R/G/B). Can anyone point me to what I'm looking for? :)
  6. Ok so I've been using cineplus cinema picture style along side ive Lotus picture style both being a Kodak vision2 kind of in camera grade. I usually tweak them a bit in post but for the most part they are very good and quite cheap honestly but that's not what I wanted to talk about. What do you guys think about grading footage to look like 35 or 16mm film? I'm not talking necessarily "the film look" but I mean making footage actually look as if it was shot on film. What techniques do you use? Any type of workflow/grains you recommend? Is it overrated to go for this look and how often do you do this kind of grade?
  7. skiphunt

    Nikon & LUTs

    Hi, Experimenting with the D5300 before I take it on a little trip to Mexico. Trying to get something close to a decent look before I leave, and with minimal gear. Have decided that the 18-200mm VR lens, while not perfect, is close enough to my manual glass to sacrifice some shallow DOF for the benefits of the VR stabilization. The trade-offs are worth having a wide range, macro, AF for stills, VR for handheld, etc. So, now I'm trying to get the in camera settings where I want them to be for grading in FCP X. I've been playing with the LUT Utility with test footage I shot using the Flaat 10 profile, and a modified Standard profile. I didn't think I really needed the LUT Utility or any LUTs to start with... however, I just graded the same footage the best I could by eye and several different shots. Then used the Fuji 3513 to Rec709 at about 50% and miner tweaks to the exposure, etc. Added a little bit of grain and sharpened. Consistently, despite my best efforts, the footage using the LUTs comes out better and closer to natural film stock. I can get close starting with the Teal + Orange Look built-in to FCP X, but it's always better using the LUT. I'm sure a good colorist wouldn't need the LUTs but it's just so much quicker to get it right if you're a relative noob like me. ;) Anyway, what I've figured out is that I get better results with a tweaked Standard file than I do the Flaat 10 one. I don't think the LUTS that come with LUT Utility are the best for the Nikon, but they're not bad. I've seen really nice stuff from Brandon Li using Osiris, but it's mostly been from cameras like the Sony RX10, 5D3 & BMPCC which I think that LUT is particularly tuned to. Can anyone using Nikon here, recommend some LUTs that you find most appealing? Not going for Film Convert at the moment. Sticking with LUTS and tweaking my own profile.
  8. Clean Contrast Hi, I've created a new colour correction plugin for Adobe Premiere CS6 that I think many of you will find interesting.   Demo The password is: plugin https://vimeo.com/66239802   Why use Clean Contrast? When it comes to adding contrast to an image, many common tools are flawed.  These tools often use algorithms that transform light in an unrealistic way.  Clean Contrast aims to allow you to manipulate the exposure and contrast of an image in a way that mimics how light actually works.  Instead of working on a "per channel" basis, Clean Contrast uses a "per pixel" algorithm that more accurately affects light.   What can I use Clean Contrast for? As the video demonstrates, this new tool allows you to add generous amounts of contrast to an image without distorting the scene's natural colours.  Of course, it also works for more subtle adjustments.   How do I use Clean Contrast? There are only 3 controls you have to learn. Mode: The mode determines the algorithm that will be used on the image.  Realistic will be suitable for most situations and it's selected by default.  It mimics how light works in real life.  Stylized will use another algorithm that works in the HSL colour-space.  Though it's not realistic, it can come in handy if you're looking for a more dramatic look. Lift: This adds or subtracts a constant amount of lightness to each pixel in a linear fashion. Gain: This defines the contrast by multiplying each pixel's lightness by a constant. Workflow: First, you'll use the Lift control to set your darkest pixels to be pure black.  Then, you'll adjust the Gain in order to achieve the desired amount of contrast.  You may have to go back and forth between these two controls to dial in the look perfectly.  If there's too much or too little saturation, I suggest applying the "Fast Color Corrector" immediately after Clean Contrast in order to adjust it to your liking.   How much does Clean Contrast cost? It's FREE!  The download link is at the end of this post   Which applications will Clean Contrast work with? Unfortunately, Clean Contrast has only been designed to work with Adobe Premiere CS6 running on Mac OS X.  It may be available for other platforms in the future, but don't hold your breath for it.   How can I help the developer? Just leave me some feedback.  Although I work as a software developer, this is a project I've decided to do for free.  Let me know what you think of it and how it could be improved.  Also, feel free to share some work you've done using it.   Where can I get Clean Contrast? [attachment=509:Clean Contrast for Mac OS X.zip]   Please let me know what you think!     EDIT: How do I install Clean Contrast? Installation instructions are included in the INSTALL.txt file. It turns out there's a mistake in the installation instructions.  The path for adobe plugins is:  /Library/Application Support/Adobe/Common/Plug-ins/CS6/MediaCore/ It's within this folder that you copy the file.  Thanks to nigelbb for the fix!
  9. Hey Everybody, I have uploaded a new video tutorial on: How to Color Correct / Color Grade an entire sequence using Final Cut Pro 7 and Apple's Color. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YZR8hIhSEA Many tutorials online cover the basics on how to color grade one clip at a time but this workflow will make it easier for you to do a grade on a complete edit. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you want to see more of these videos. Regards, Ruan Lotter Twitter: @ruanlotter Youtube: www.youtube.com/tunnelviziontv Facebook: www.facebook.com/tunnelviziontv
  10. Hey all DIY Filmmakers I have uploaded a new video tutorial on Color Grading / Styling using Magic Bullet's Colorista II. A real simple way of adding some awesome color styles to your film / music video etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea35Wxvogqo Hope you all enjoy!! Cheerz! Ruan twitter: @ruanlotter youtube: www.youtube.com/tunnelviziontv
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