FHDcrew

There are some areas in my room though where the lighting looks good. You think that’s just random differences in how the light is bouncing? Even some spots that don’t make sense to me; one area I was very close to a wall but the light looked great. The other I’m more in the middle of the room and I got that strange look again.

Thanks guys! Will have to try.

That is what I’m thinking. Anything you recommend? Will I need a lot? Have you experienced this issue? Appreciate the advice!

Extra notes; shooting with a Nikon z6, n-log, graded using CST. I notice this skin tone difference even when grading the exact same way, even when all I do is a simple exposure adjustment.

Quick question. I’m trying my best to learn lighting and achieve pleasing talking heads. I have 2 small LED lights I use as a hair light/ambient fill for the background. Key light is neewer SL60W with 120cm parabolic softbox. I find the quality of the light varies greatly based off of the rook I am in. Sadly I don’t have any examples I can share, so I’ll just try to describe. If I am in a medium sized room, or a room without tons of bright walls, the key light looks good. I can put it at around a 45 degree, down-pointed angle and it looks natural. Flattering and soft, yet the face has depth. However if I try it in another room, a room that is smaller and has brighter walls, the quality of the light is much worse. The skin tone tonal range looks more “compressed”. Lack of tonal range and depth; the face looks somewhat flat. Sorry if this sounds vague, I was just wondering if anyone could help with my issue.

What an old thread.

Didn’t expect that the sigma 18-35 would be clunky!

Woot. Thread revived. These sub forums are just sad. They get no love anymore. I’ve heard the one downfall of 70d ML RAW are some weird quirks with available resolutions, FPS override, etc. But it would be so interesting! I feel like all the ML RAW cameras have unique mojo, having that mojo plus decent AF, all in a sub $400 camera, would be amazing! I just don’t hear people use it very much. But this guy here got some BEAUTIFUL footage from it. I don’t see a reason to use this camera for ML RAW other than the dual pixel AF though

I didn’t do any tests lol, other than some not so great gyroflow tests with a Nikon Z6, Tamron 45mm 1.8, and iPhone as gyro logger. Didn’t turn out great for me; first time I got success, needed such a severe crop it was unusable. Then I tried recently and the info just didn’t sync up well. I don’t know if it’s a problem with the app i am using?

Just weigh DPAF versus 14 bit RAW. If you go 5d mark iv make sure to get the c-log upgrade. 8 bit c-log grades nicely and you can’t deny the usefulness of good AF. But 5d mark iii RAW has that mojo, that I think a little bit of it got lost in the 5d iv. 5d ii I would only recommend if you have very little equipment; for example if you don’t have a lighting setup or want more lens options. Difference between that and 5d III is minor, and the extra money saved could go toward lenses, lighting, or both. Just weigh what is important to you. Any of the 5d routes is good.

Let’s revive this threat, shall we? Threads seem to die in these EOSHD sub forums. Anyone use ML RAW on a canon 70d? Just think, pair it with a sigma 18-35 and you have a cheap raw setup with dual pixel AF!!

You got it for that cheap? That’s crazy! Best camera ever at that price. Would be a dream, my ideal image. Beautiful detailed organic 1080p with great DR and color. Kind of hilarious how Sony had their color figured out clear back in the Sony F3 (and even F35) days! And yet the A7sii, A7iii, etc. made it look like Sony color scientists had amnesia. If only the camera was not so big and heavy, then it would be perfect for me. I guess I just don’t care for large setups.

So what makes you say it can’t be a gimbal replacement?

Very impressive! Looks like the wider the better. Post-production motion blur looking pretty good!

Other than DR I can find no fault in the image. I don’t even think 5d II RAW aliasing is a big deal. I’d go with a 5d iii and just install a stable build, use plain old uncompressed full sensor 14 bit 1080, beautiful image and stable enough for pro work.

Dynamic range is the only weakness of the 5d raw image I think. And at least with it being RAW we can maximize the lower DR to help it look better!

Exactly! And they have such a good image! The fact that you could even compare then to like an R5C is testimony enough!

I mean at the end of the day, it just never seems like a big leap in IQ anymore! Yeah improvements are made. Canon R5C 8k RAW looks better than Fuji xt3 10 bit, but is it an astronomical difference? No. Astronomical price difference? Of course! Remember the days when we went from 8 bit canon line-skipped 720p, all the way up to GH4 clean 4k? Or to Sony A7S, bringing log, high DR and smooth highlight rolloff to the masses? What about going from 5d mark III mush to 5d mark III 14 bit RAW glory? Those were huge differences. We are well past that type of image quality progression. Everything looks the same, everything looks really good. All that’s left is for this IQ to keep trickling down into the sub $1k territory.

I totally agree. So many “older” cameras at that price point ($1500-2000) that really deliver, no major image quality compromises. They all have good DR, nice color and good codecs. The Z6 plus Atomos Ninja V is also an honorable mention. I think this price point gets you considerably better than what you can get sub 1k. And I also think diminishing returns really sit in after this point. How much better will a Z9 look than a S5 or a Z6/Ninja? Probably a *little little* bit better, but the *enormous* differences we all obsess over are all so small and minor. My Z6 does not have as much dynamic range for example, as the A7sIII. But even if you looked at them side by side, both shooting log, that extra difference would be super minor! I just don’t get what all the obsession is about. Ergonomics? Usuabillty? Quality of life improvements? Sure, I’ll take those. But image quality? We really are at high levels of diminishing returns.

Very impressive. My results using a Z6 and an iPhone as the gyro logger, bringing things into gyroflow have not been so good. Using Tamron 45mm. Should I maybe invest in a different gyro logger, such as a GoPro or Runcam?

Looking pretty seamless so far!

This makes me jealous of the Blackmagic cameras right now. Solves a HUGE issue.

I have a Z6 using gyroflow and an iPhone for logging. Right now I only have a 45mm lens so obviously not ideally wide for this technique. I want to get a 24mm 1.8 at some point but not right now. Any tips for getting decent results saying I’m at such a tight focal length? I tried it once, just handholding Willy nilly without extra support. Stabilization worked but needed to crop in to utterly insane amounts.

Neek-Hown!