FHDcrew

I’m sick of all the Insta360 YT spam. It’s getting ridiculous. Potato Jet should be called Insta360 Jet.

Good to know. At least I find N-Log has great flexibility as is.

I shoot N-log to the ninja v on my Nikon z6, using CST and other nodes in resolve. It grades very well. Has anyone used the Prores raw upgrade for the Z6? Is it worthwhile? I have a spare Mac so can use the Prores raw to cinema dng converter to work with the RAW footage in resolve. What annoys me is not the $200 fee but the fact that I have to send my camera in. also, N-log has a 1.1x crop. What is the Prores raw crop? Is it less?

Exactly. Looks to me that the tech is there.

Also way to revive an ancient thread 😁

I’d say so. It’s going to give you natural motion blur, and saying as the gimbal is stable, you won’t be relying on heavy post stabilization which benefits from decreased motion blur.

Good for you.

Yep true. Though cameras like my Z6 would benefit. Andrew, how does your Zlog internal profile fare? Compared to external 10 bit NLOG? I just don’t like the size and weight do the ninja v, but much prefer NLOG to anything the camera produces internally.

I’m sitting here with an ultra thin iPhone 13 in my hand. Screen size is similar to my ninja v. And just like the ninja it can record 10 bit 4k 60. But my phone is way thinner and lighter once you attach a battery to the ninja. The iPhone has better battery life without needing a massive NPF battery hanging off of it. Why can’t we use our phones as high quality external recorders? The existing solutions seem either nonexistent, or laggy with low bitrates.

You could even get this from a Sony a7iv when using this setup. Gerald Undone uses this same principle on the Sony A1 to get 8k down sampled to a ninja v.

Heck yes that is the best shooting format ever. I do it all the time with my Z6. You could get a cheap ninja star, and on practically any camera with separate hdmi output settings, can select 4k as the record format but set 1080 as the hdmi output format. Now you have oversampled Prores hq 1080p. Just no slow motion, which I don’t care about b

S1 is dope. Plus the open gate 6k and full sized HDMI. AF was only reason I didn’t pick one up. I’m happy with the Nikon Z6 AF, plus using the Ninja V I still get the 10 bit log goodness.

Surprising things you can do without actually adding light

Yep, maybe I can do a custom crop on my ninja v to help with framing.

Diverging off topic here. But if the fake, post-production DOF matures then an xc10 paired with that technique could be awesome. Davinci has a decent depth map but the edges always look fake, and there is only so far the technique can be pushed before it looks fake. But if some AI methods got good, I’d pick up an XC10 in a heartbeat

And I’ve seen that if you shoot full frame 4k with this lens, you can crop in to probably about 3k resolution, and get a 15.5mm FF lens! I’m definitely considering this option.

As I said with NLOG the Z6 does a 1.1x crop in 4k. You think that crop would be very noticeable on a FF 20mm lens?

What is a good cheap MF 20mm lens? If I don’t want to spend $430 to have AF? Though AF seems pretty valuable, not sure what direction I’ll go.

So you are saying there is a noticeable difference.

As many of you know I have a Nikon Z6 and am looking for a fast wide angle for video. Viltrox has a 24mm 1.8 FF lens, affordable. Though N-log crops in 1.1x on the camera so I’m worried I’d lose some FOV. I’ve contemplated the viltrox 13mm 1.4 APSC lens instead, as it’s closer to 20mm FF equiv. I would have to shoot in DX crop mode, but I honestly feel like I’d just lose an inconsequential level of detail (no longer doing 6k over sampling) and would have degraded high ISO performance (I don’t usually need great performance). Your thoughts? Is 20mm vs 24mm a huge difference?

It’s a super versatile minimal *not-wallet-breaking* setup

Wow. You guys have read my mind. I’ve got a 50mm (actually 45mm) and in order to keep things somewhat affordable I’m thinking of a 20-24mm fast prime, and then just juggling back and forth between the two primes, for the exact reasoning you mentioned.

Update time. I have the 5 in 1 reflector, using that as negative fill, combined with some tweaks to my key light angle results in pleasing contrast and depth in the face. So I’m very pleased! I’m still doing the technique of moving the already large key light visibly into the frame, then masking it out in post. I noticed a discernible discernible difference in softness between using this workflow, and having the key light just out of frame.

Interesting comment on the video. I share these feelings.

Exactly. It just isn’t possible. But the internet wants to sell you that. Motion graphics templates. Lut packs. Lightroom presets. It’s all annoying.