Henchman

I have several DIY Variable Diopters made from Century optics WA 0.8x wide angle adapters.
I did a test tonight, and realized that the WA adapter changes the flares, and in fact mutes them a bit.

I am thinking of removing the coating on one, and was wondering should I start with the front element.

It was worse than the one in the picture below.  (Which I'll also be polishing) and now it looks like the other picture. 

1 hour ago, Timotheus said:

Looks good yes. Did you also try with bright lights?

Are you also in the Anamorphic Shooters FB group? I'm sure people would be interested in your results.

I'm going to post there when I get out of Facebook jail. 😀

I'm also going to shoot a little video comparing flares with direct light 

After reading a facebook post in the vintage lens group, where a member asked about polishing a lens with damaged coatings on the front element, and where the responses were basically, "throw it in the garbage", I decided to make a quick comparison video of 2 moller 32/2 lenses I have.

One is in perfect condition.
The other was one I picked up for cheap.
When it arrived, the front lens cleaning marks were so excessive, it was truly unusable. So I decided to try polishing it.
I used diamond polishing compound 14000 grit, and a dremel with a polishing tool.
Look at the video and tell me which one of these lenses is unusable, and should be thrown in the garbage.

Or you could make a DIY variable diopter using a WA lens.

This one is good for larger lenses. 

Rear glass is 80mm front is 100mm.

https://vimeo.com/509285133

Have you thought of creating a repository for lens profiles?

So, I will be shooting a ultra low budget in the new year, and a lot of it takes place in a hotel size room, that will be low light for the look of intimacy. 

Now, to get the widest Anamorphic setup, I have been experimenting.

My setup for the wide angle shots is going to be my gold Isco Ultrastar. Home made single focus VD using a 0.8 wide angle converter. And my 50mm f/ 1.4 super Takumar with an ef adapter on a 0.71 speedbooster. 

Correct me if I'm wrong on my calculations. 

This gives me the same FOV, but faster, as a 35mm f2 lens but without the speedbooster. Which is 28mm.

Correct? 

Short video of test shots with the BMPCC 4K

Lens was wide open as it was quite dark in the room.

https://youtu.be/WArcKh-lXWY

Heads up.

Tilta has a deal on their motor. $135

https://tilta.com/shop/nucleus-nano-motor-kit-i/

But you can get an open box system from them as well for $171

https://tilta.com/shop/nucleus-nano-wireless-lens-control-system-open-box/

I should have specified I was meaning using the autofocus with a bmpcc 4k

5 hours ago, BTM_Pix said:

If you want to use an autofocus lens with a motor then you would put it in manual and put a gear on it.

But, would it be able in the future to use the motor of an autofocus in combination wiht a gear for the Anamorphic scope.
Just an Idea.

Now, what if one wants to use a lens that has autofocus in combination with a single motor.
Is that possible?

7 hours ago, BTM_Pix said:

Yes that is the principle but to enable more precision, you can actually calibrate up to 100 positions and it will then interpolate between those if necessary.

wow. that's amazing

13 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

Yes, it is setup as a dual calibration file so you move the lenses individually at each distance point  during the calibration and it then drives each one independently to their relevant positions at that distance.

As it is done at multiple points rather than as an overall offset then with a lens like that Anarmorphot it will only operate the Near/Far focus of it when the distance to the subject is below/above 3ft.

 

 

 

Ok, so I just want to make sure I understand.
If I set the focus calibration of a near and distant point on both lenses. Will it track everything inbetween? 

Have you done tests with a dual focus anamorphic setup? 

What's peoples experiences here with the Tilta follow focus motors?
Will the N be good enough?

On 10/30/2020 at 6:35 AM, BTM_Pix said:

I think it would be pretty easy to adapt it to a 15mm rod mount without using a big heavy clamp. 

BTW, will the AI be a software add-on, or hardware. And what do you see the additional cost being?

Got mine ordered. 
Hope delivery will stay on schedule. I have a no budget feature I'm starting in the New Year that this will be perfect for.

I picked up a Nominar 25mm/f0.95 Cine Super lens.

Anyone familiar with these?

Decided to pick up a Nikon AIS 28mm f/2.8 for $160

5 hours ago, kye said:

 

There's a pretty well established principle that lenses sharpen up when you stop them down the first couple of stops.  As mentioned before this has exceptions, but those exceptions seem to be just that, exceptions.

 

 

And that's exactly why I was asking for f2 or faster suggestions. So when I'm shooting in low-light conditions, I can still stop down a 1.4 lens to 2.8 and know I'll have a sharper image than using a 2.8 lens, wide open. 

And since this is for filmmaking, I'm mostly concerned about the center of the image anyway.

The Voigtlander is very sharp wide open at f/1.4. 

Question: "What's your favorite non-alcoholic drink?"

Kye: "Gin and Tonic'

3 hours ago, kye said:

 

The issue I took, and thus my slightly sarcastic reply, was that this is viewed far too simplistically by people.

 

I asked a very clear question.

50mm, f2 or less and sharp wide open.

Pretty clear question.

f4 isn't f2.