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Chamsom

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  1. Like
    Chamsom reacted to Hans Punk in Neutral Density Filter Question   
    Here is what’s best I’ve found from over the years...
    Option 1  Shoot with a camera that has internal ND feature.
    Option 2  Instal fixed ND’s upfront in a rail mounted mattebox - or VND/ circular ND using a filter tray adapter.
    Option 3  Rear mounting a fixed or VND (between Anamorphic rear and taking lens front) can work perfectly well, providing the setup is on rails. In bright conditions a collapsed rubber lens hood can also be used to create a lightproof donut that is compact enough to not introduce added vignette. Flares are not affected or dulled...at most an added faint green line is added to the streak flare from the ND’s multi-coating.
    Option 3  If rail mounted setup is not used - front mounting ND’s can be attached to front of scope lens by using clamp adapter, or screwing into native thread if using iscorama lens types. If using clamp adapter, some added vignette might be introduced if using wider taking lenses. Fixed value ND’s are usually best used in this scenario since they are usually thinner. VND’s can sometimes introduce issues if used on the front clamp of scope lenses that rotate whilst focusing, since a shifting polarising effect can be introduced. Sometimes front mounting ND filters can introduce added flare effects, usually an added faint green streak line flare is apparent when exposed to intense direct light source.
     
    Always best to get the best possible quality filter budget will allow - especially if mounted to front of a rotating scope, since some lower quality ND filters can introduce unwanted texture to bokeh. When these are rotated it can be very distracting to see this artifacts in bright light as well as ugly colour shift. A very decent budget solution is the Hoya PROND64 (six stop fixed ND) - quite capable in bright daylight and easy to rear mount in a rail setup as described previously.
     
  2. Like
    Chamsom reacted to Justin Bacle in Small setups w/ vintage projection lens   
    Here you go, 
    My smallest yet.
    Canon 50D + Voigtlander 50/2.8 (DKL mount) + YashicaScope + Aivascope Focuser 8 ( + lots of adapters from china + rapido to have the yashicascope held properly)

  3. Thanks
    Chamsom reacted to leslie in Sirui anamorphic   
    watching ebay i'd have to say a $2000 iscorama is rarer than a unicorn ? maybe a year or two years ago possibly ?
    Barrel distortion, uneven waterfall bokeh, internal reflections, raimbow artifacts, blooming that is the anamorphic look everyone has been trying to mimic over the years. thats just like trippin without the mushrooms  ?
    if you want hype, go visit the p4k thread, more than a million views and that was before the camera was even released ? what we have been doing is having a gentlemen's discussion on a new lens, thats the cheapest by far, that will alleviate most of the issues of buying a anamorphic projection lens and rigging it to work single focus style, that is groundbreaking gentlemen. Pretty sure tito's already said its not perfect. Does it have to be perfect ? no it does not. It just has to give us flares and an anamorphic aspect ratio 1.33 will do for starters
  4. Like
    Chamsom reacted to seku in Small setups w/ vintage projection lens   
    There's quite a few ways to go lightweight, but you didn't mention what sensor size you are going for The Aivascope that @heart0less linked you to is an awesome, single-focus 1.5x for fullframe.  It does not need a focusser, but imho it does need support, because it is rather heavy on the taking lens at around 700 gramms. But Aivascope also makes a smaller scope, for smaller sensors.
    Here's mine for instance : GH5 > speedbooster > Nikon 50mm 1.8 pancake > Aivascope 1.75x v2 > ProtoDNA. Quite lightweight, does without rails. (see attached picture)
    This gives me perfect 2.40:1 when desqueezing opengate 4:3.
    Then again when you go vintage scopes there is quite a lot of choice :
    Baby Hypergonar (the 1.75x aivascope is a modern take on that one Yashica Scope (a cute small 1.5x one, which i would double focus) Bolex 8/19 (1.5x bolex flare goodness, one of my favorite baby scopes) Baby Kowa (2x, even more elusive than the Bolex) So you can go for light and small scopes, especially if you stick to m43 or s35 sensor sizes ... but it might take a year or 2 to hunt some baby scopes down... and you better have deep pockets.

  5. Like
    Chamsom reacted to heart0less in Small setups w/ vintage projection lens   
    Nah, unfortunately it's still too heavy.
    I wouldn't feel comfortable / safe to use it without rails.
     
    The lightest way to go is Aivascope paired with Focuser-8, but you'd only get a 1.5x strech with it.
     
    Looks like this (not my photos):


  6. Like
    Chamsom got a reaction from noone in Your gear of the decade?   
    The Sony A6300 to me is a cinema camera on the go. Super 35mm sensor, wide dynamic range, EVF and a bunch of other little details that you can just use anywhere. I still feel spoiled even though it's relatively "low end" nowadays.
  7. Like
    Chamsom reacted to noone in Your gear of the decade?   
    Mine has to be the Sony A7s.    I have had a LOT of cameras this last decade (and a lot including old point and shoot cameras just this year).    I am now on my second A7s (my first broke after years of solid daily use but I was recently given a new one by my family).      After being without one for a year or so, I appreciate being able to put pretty much any lens on it and simply walk out the door and shoot it at any time of the day or night.
    I do not need a huge pixel count or tracking AF but being able to put the ISO on auto (currently max 25600) and not worry is wonderful...with almost every other digital camera I have had (A7, GX7, 7D, Nex3N. several Pentaxes a  couple of Olympus digital ILCs, a Nikon and more as well as many P&S, i HAVE had to worry about the max ISO (A7 was almost worry free for me) and in some cases, simply not shoot at night without flash (or light for video).
    It isn't JUST having decent high ISO, it is the dynamic range that goes with it too.    The A7s is stilly pretty good for DR at base (still equal or better to ANY M43 and most APSC and many other FF cameras but it does not drop away anywhere ear as steeply as other cameras (I have some cameras that are about the same at their base as the A7s is at ISO 12800).
    I am also finding that simple things like the horizon level in the EVF (that does pitch as well) is a godsend for walking around.
    Sure the camera has many flaws but the things it does, it does very well.
    Your choice?
     
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