DanielVranic

Please post photo examples. And the reason I ask is I just shot an entire short at an open field/horse barn and graded the entire project using GHALEX and there is not one trace of banding. Not even in the outdoor shots going directly into a blue sky, all the way to a way underexposed inside the barn office and even then it was just fine. Even before on the old thread, I was unable to make my Fuji's footage band at all. I am coming from shooting on Sony's.. so I know what banding is! Is it entirely possible that you have a bad copy? I have googled and googled and you are the only person I have found that has issues with banding on a Fuji system. Every search I have done for it has brought up issues with photo and the ES, but nothing for the 10bit video.

Thanks for the tip. I have found that I am enjoying a 5-node workflow for this. 1. WB Corrections/Balances 2. Flog/FGammut-VLog/VGammut 3. Adjustment node, using the LGG wheels, (i do not know how to due a hue-locked curve, will look into it) 4. GHa/GHa Linear (depending on which look i am feeling) 5. Saturation/Balance adjust That workflow has worked excellent for me so far! I need to look into those hue-locked curves though!

Node based workflows are superior to layers and lumetri by a long shot. That feature is one of the biggest and best that DaVinci offers. I used to think otherwise when I was using Adobe alot, but I can not work any other way.

I am in the same boat Jonesy. Resolve has some great features. But it seems all of my actual paying projects I do in Adobe because of the file organization, and the ease of editing. Someday I hope to fully transition over.

Great. And I rarely if ever use face/eye detect, usually use like Spot detect. Work well?

So I am in need of some faster AF glass for video. Fuji doesn't have it. (yet. I see you 33f1) But I was thinking maybe Sigma ART line - 30mm 1.4 with the Fringer Ef-FX Pro How would that perform?

ah shit, well I should probably have read those! So far I love it, i built the FLog-VLog LUT in LUTCalc and for about 80% of shots it works perfectly. But in shots where there is a huge gap from high to low its blows out the highs and crushes the lows. Whereas if I did a manual grade with curves it would be still OK. I totally understand it was never made for the XT3, but just trying to find a way to avoid that for now.

Hey Sage, I have a question. To make the best use of the LUT, do you prefer footage be overexposed and brought down?

I actually did the F-Log -> F-log/F-Gamut to V-log/V-Gamut LUT from LUTCalc -> GHa Daylight on my XT3 footage and it is beautiful!!!

Thats what I do right now. I think i explained it in a different thread - but i usually convert from FLog to 709 using curves and a CST, and then go from 709 to LogC and back to 709. That gives me my highlight roll-off and looks pretty. But if this LUT can do both? and give me nice new colors? sign me up.

HMMMM. looks very good. Wondering if I should just do that.

True, but just would be nice.

ProResRAW would be so dope for the Fuji-XT3

Oh! Its a Star Wars quote! I was just joking~

Hello! Ship to USA?

if what you have told me is true, you have gained my trust.

Curious how well that adapter would work with the 18-35 1.8

Question. My Fuji 35mm has an outer diameter under 40mm and is 35mm crop f2. Would the Anamorphot40 Compact work on that? And would the AF still work?

Actually editing a project right now with filmconvert! I love it!! After the FilmConvert i always still do an LogC conversion, and I like what it does to the roll-off

I thought that was changed with a firmware update?

Those look cool! Would be cool if there was a Sony E mount to FX speedbooster so I could get the FF view

400MBps UHD on both Heat was not a factor. The camera (XT3) directly next to it ran for 15 mins longer (filled the card, non-heat) Have not swapped them in a while, so i do not recall if there has been a change. I will test this afternoon.

I have actually been having some issues with one of my XT3's. So I do alot of local band filming in town, and last night had a gig for an album releae party. One cam on my Ronin other camera on my Rhino off to the side. Ronin cam had UHSII 300mb/s cards in them, Rhino cam had UHS1 95mbs cards in there. The Ronin had 40mins of rec time, and the Rhino had 30. Band plays for 29 minutes. Ronin cam did great, love it, and I walk over to the Rhino and see it say it has 8mins of recording time avaliable. Sure enough I get home and it just stopped recording entirely about 22 minutes in. No battery issue, obviously the cards were not filled.. and this is the 3rd time this has happened on a gig. Any ideas?

While I do not own a GH5, but an XT3 with HLG, I do not use HLG in low-light, or ever. FLog usually has enough data for low-light, but I would recommend you use a non-log profile. Cine-D would be my pick. When I shoot in lower light I always switch over to one of the Provia modes.

Nope