gt3rs

Is not a cripple hammer is a big oversight as afaik no C camera has this not even the C500…

A big nope and this together with the battery is the biggest complain that I have with this great camera. You can also only save ONE settings file to the SD so you cannot use that neither... why o why not being able to give at least a name... I switch a lot from 8K 50 RAW to 4k S&F 120 XFAVC and is a pain.... on the R5 I have two C mode one for 8K 25 and one for 4k 120 much more practical

Is pulled as there is a bug in photo mode, if you use custom modes c1 c2 etc camera think to be in pixel shift mode and creates huge jpgs. I expect that is a quick fix.

Why not simply crop in post? I normally do it this way when people requests vertical video.

Indeed, I rarely use the same grade for video and photo, for the best photos I normally export 16bit tiffs from Resolve and edit in ACR.

4k imo is a bit the bar minimum as it gives you almost zero cropping space. I agree that 6k is probably the sweet spot with 8k giving you more possible tight composition and vertical reframe. RAW gives you a bit more flexibility mostly due to white balance but is not imo a key requirement as 10bit log you can definitely process more that .jpg. So 10bit is somewhere in between RAW and jpg... When I shoot 8k I always do it in RAW LT as is much faster to edit and scrub in Resolve that h265 4:2:2 10bit.... At events I take my gaming notebook and edit directly from the CFexpress... for the photo I show the frames to the athlete and I ask which he/she wants and then I edit.

As several people have mentioned here any gopro with wifi enabled, usb powered and using your phone ... you can even record if you see something interesting. Or any cheap wifi surveillance camera that does not require a plan/cloud.... 20-30$ but the quality is quite bad...

I tested quite extensively over the weekend, let’s start with the good: “Enables to detect heads facing sideways or backwards, or in situations such as when wearing a helmet” This one is not perfect but really good and for the type of filming that I do it makes a difference, first it does not lose the head when moving away but more important it works with helmets. These in the past I would have to stop down to 5.6 to keep the face in focus, now with the face tracking with helmet I can shoot at 2.8. Screen grab, this one was almost impossible before as the focus would have been on the horse head instead of her. this one before it would have simply lose the focus “Improves switching time between Video/Photo mode” This one is much faster now, was not a big issue for me but now it should not be an issue for most people. “Enables to change WFM size” and “Enables to change WFM/Vector scope opacity”. This is very practical, especially on the tiny screen. Just tap the WFM and it becomes bigger, tap it again goes smaller. Now the not so good: Face/Helmet does not work on S&F mode so no 100/120 fps face tracking…. R5 can… “Adds Power Saving Mode” this comes with some limitations so only 4k XAVC, but works 24 to 60fps…. and indeed it extends quite a bit the battery. So seems all good but the implementation is a bit cumbersome as you can turn it on only when all settings matches and if you want to let say go to S&F mode 120 you cannot you need first to disable it…. T his camera needs absolutely customs shooting modes it would make all of this so easier to go from 8K RAW 24, to XAVC save mode 24 to then XAV S&F 120 and so on…. You need to change many menu items that is insane…. For example, for this scene I wanted to quickly change to 120fps for a few seconds and then back to 24 and with power saving you cannot do it quickly.... Overall not much to complain Canon added quite a few of very useful features. I hope they will further improve the camera. My wishes for the next one are customs shooting modes and face tracking in S&F 120, even better if you could select the area of the frame where face tracking is active similar to the R3.

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000): motion blur in Resolve Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning... This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.

Yeah right S1 video AF for sports…. maybe instead of complaining about the thread you could post some of yours sports frame grabs 😉

I like FF look shallow dof so personally I would take R8 instead of an R7 also R8 4k 60 is supersampled definitely better quality…. a few here seems to prefer the R7. I’m not a Sony shooter but they have really good camera too with great AF, so does Nikon (in case of Nikon for the moment only the expensive ones have good video for sports). Ideally you want a 4k or up, 60 fps not pixel binned with really good video AF But the first question should be: do you own already any lenses?

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3... A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8 Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

The above I posted especially as is a 4k one, so a R8 at 4k 60fps + a used ef 70-200 2.8 you would get a close enough photo out of the video as mine. Unfortunately sports = large lenses…

Mostly R5 and R5c. This one is from 2 days ago: R5c 4k 120fps 1/2000 F2.8 and the AF can keep up. AF tracking is quite good in video even for sport, challenging is the initial acquisition but for track and field it should not be a big issue

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed. 24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures. Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both. Some examples of my video grabs: Slow shutter 180 rule The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out High shutter speed 1/500 and above For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion.

Great, perfect timing as this weekend there is a local showjumping event where I can test it before next week fei csi international competition. Very curious about the AF improvement especially the face/helmet one….

It would help knowing what type of action/sports you plan to shoot and the type of shoot eg tripod, gimbal, mounted camera, fix camera, etc.

Search my posts in the forum, I take a lot of pictures out of videos mostly out of 8k RAW and sometimes out of 4k 120fps…. Depending on the priority I set the shutter speed accordingly. video first then is 180 rule or up to 1/500, photo first I even set it to 1/3000… It depends a lot on the sports and if you are panning/following or fix position. Fix position 180 rule almost never work not even at 120fp 1/250, panning works in many more situation also as low as 1/50. Sports people are so used to gopro videos and co that they mostly don’t notice if you shoot a video at 1/500….

I did try PS Generative Fill on around 10 pictures that I wanted to remove stuff since a long time but it was just too much work and is crazy good especially if you just want to remove objects. It will just get better and better and will be applied to video too. Saving tons of tons of hours of work but also will make people loose their job. Also being able to use a prompt will also speed up things tremendously like "replace the pink t-shirt with a white shirt"...

If you use a cage or half cage just use this https://www.smallrig.com/SmallRig-HDMI-and-USB-C-Cable-Clamp-for-Canon-EOS-R5---R6---R5-C-Cage-2981B.html and this https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-ultra-slim-4k-hdmi-adapter-cable-d-to-a-3021.html On my R5c the adapter and clamp are there fixed in, so I just connect the full HDMI to the adapter. I already pulled the cable and broke the adapter.. 9$ and back to business, a full HDMI would not have been better so this is for sure the safest solution.

I was pretty sure that I have used for a couple of live streaming. To be sure I just tested on my R5 and with the first menu settings (LCD+HDMI) the camera can record on the card while outputting a clean HDMI feed and displaying the overlays only on the LCD screen. I also tested and it works the second menu option "only HDMI", there you need to press info to go the screen without any overlays (assuming you did not disable that screen in the customization. It could be that R6 II cannot do neither of the methods but seems strange to me. Best is the R5c solution where you can configure what to show in the LCD and on the HDMI....

Actually for gimbal use is a pita as it works only through USB so you cannot connect the gimbal to the camera, plus you have a cable from the gimbal grip to the camera that is not a good idea. Would have been Wifi or Bluetooth it would have been brilliant....

Seems a really good camera, probably the best hybrid at the moment. It makes A1, Z9 and R3 look overpriced compared to this. Really good that Nikon is aggressive with the price/features pushing Canon and Sony. Only odd thing that apparently it cannot record video on both cards...and personally I don't like the screen as is a pita on gimbals...

The main difference is Z9 8k 60 vs R5 8k 30 (R5c has 8k 60) but at the end imo what it counts is what leans you have.