hijodeibn
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Posts posted by hijodeibn
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oh Gosh....I have been waiting a camera like this for a while...I hope Canon doesn't screw up at last minute this time....
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13 hours ago, jagnje said:
yes, but to the regard of the electrical current frequency. US has a 60Hz electrical current, while most of the EU uses 50Hz. 24, 48, 60fps sync with 60Hz to avoid flicker in US , while the EU as you may gues uses 25, 50 fps to avoid flicker in 50Hz.
A solution is to use the flicker free program in premiere, it is really good, you will remove all the flicker in a few seconds.....since I doubt 25p and 30p will be included in the near future...for Audit sync it is more work, but anyway doable...
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13 hours ago, IronFilm said:
Good news / bad news:
Hi, it's the SSD module. And I'm sorry but we would be uncomfortable declaring a lesser value than what it sells for.
Happy bidding!Sorry, you will have to keep looking, some guys are very nice and don't care about the price declaration, others very strict, anyway, sure something will show up in the future!!!
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1 hour ago, manueldomes said:
I'd second the Tiffen recommendation. Got it again after breaking one a year ago (and it took a lot of force to break!)
For docu work I can't imagine not having one. If there's color shift, I reckon it's the good kind - I like the skin tones with it.
I also gave my vote to Tiffen, of course fixed ND is always going to be better, but for run and gun and docs a VARI ND is a life saver, there are tones of youtube videos about ND filters, comparisons, recommendations, etc, for price and quality, Tiffen is the way to go...
Below is a good comparison video that can help you to decide..
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2 hours ago, Mattias Burling said:
Or use a compound clip.
There definitely is light at the other end of the tunnel.
I just got a training in FCPX, so I guess I will see the light early than later
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2 hours ago, Mattias Burling said:
This is true. It isn't trying to be premiere, vegas or avid. Its something else.
But believe me. It gets so good. Its like learning to drink Coffey. Nasty in the beginning but once your hooked...
And I can't stress enough how much I don't recommend trying weird stuff like empty blocks and such instead of learning to work with the magnetic timeline instead of against it. Now using an NLE without a magnetic timeline feels like the biggest step back ever.Push through, I believe in you!
Mattias.....you are the best seller ever.....I will load FCPX later today and I will start learning it.....I really think it will make my life easier eventually....
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I saw the movie last year, and it is really a good movie, there are some painted scenes very well achieved and of course other acted scenes, in general was a pleasant experience, the cinema was full, most of the people were from 60+ age....
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29 minutes ago, IronFilm said:
Yup, am watching it already but taxes and shipping would kill it for me :-/
Also, ssssssshhhhhhh....... don't post links here! ;-) Sharing it will lift the price too high! :-Phahahahaha.....ok, no more post here, but remember, use the old trick to get lower taxes, ask the vendor to declare a lower price when he dispatch it, some guys definitely don't do it, but others don't care and don't have any problem, you have to ask them in advance, before the bidding end, I declared a R1 MX some years ago for just $800 bucks, and the price was actually around $5K....good luck!!!
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Here someone could probably get a R1 MX at a very good price, I think it will end below $2K....
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2 hours ago, IronFilm said:
What the hell, for a RED ONE M? (not MX)?
Good grief. I haven't seen it quite that low anywhere yet. $2K yes, but not sub $1K!I have also never seen a R1 M or MX lower than $1K, only a body for parts in eBay, below $2K you can get a good body, and then later get the externals needed, probably the best deal is to buy a used one with most of its components, and we are talking from $3k to $6k depending on the components, so for around $3K plus something you could get a R1 MX with the minimal components to start shooting, which is a very good price, for $5K and above, I will never buy it today, I will save a little more and go for a C200....
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20 hours ago, IronFilm said:
Any one considering the RED ONE in 2018?!
RED ONE MX (forget about the first version), is an incredible camera, but it is very heavy, and there are many other options out there which are better, but if you don't mine to use a heavy camera and you get it for a very good price with all its extras (monitor, SSD, etc), then could be an option to consider, to be honest the risk something get broken is low, the camera is really a tank, just make sure you tested it before you buy it, and be sure everything is working.
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1 hour ago, Don Kotlos said:
@Kisaha While FCPX is great if you own Apple hardware, I have had a very hard time getting the Quicksync to work in any of the hackintoshes that I have built.
Stability is great if you get most of the drivers right, and for a laptop that is not always the easiest task but might be worth trying. The community in tonymacx86 is huge and you can get a lot of help.
With the Xeons it depends on the version. For example, I could not get any of the X99 Xeons to work but I am guessing older versions that exist in the mac pros might work out of the box.
Definitely try the desktop first to get some experience and once you feel more comfortable try the laptop.
Totally agree, laptop as the first hackintosh is a very bad idea, to be honest I will not even try, desktop is the right way.....later probably a recommended laptop already 100% proved to work OK as a Mac....
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On 11/2/2015 at 10:20 AM, Andrew Reid said:
Got a new install going from Clover now and it is indeed more stable.
Way fewer quirks to sort out post install.
The actual install went well once I deleted the old hidden EFI partition from my USB installer stick, which had the wrong config info on it.
You have to get the pre-install config spot on for your hardware, needs a lot of Googling.
I have a hackintosh since 2012 and now running OS Sierra and everything is working fine, USB 3, sound card, wifi....the only issue is that now I have to upgrade the video card to get more rendering power in DaVinci, but I have to say, it takes time to learn how to do it correctly, and you always must have a backup of your important data, anyway, I did the right choice in 2012, I first loaded Mountain Lyon, then try to land Yosemite in a another partition but never really worked well, then went for El Capitan and that worked fine for some time, then I had issue with the motherboard and El Capitan stop working, now I moved to Sierra and has been worked better than ever.
I am using Unibeast and Multibeast, from Tonymac, and depending of the parameters you can get a very stable hackintosh, I am running Mountain Lyon, Sierra and Windows 8 in the same computer in different partitions. Until now, everything I need.
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Hello Midloch, let me congrats you for the shoot you just did, very nice to be shooting in Peruvian forest, and my first advice, you have to grade your footage in a calibrated monitor, that`s step number one, the next step is to color correct you footage, to make it to look natural, and then you can go and apply a LUT to give to your film a special look.
If you are not using a calibrated monitor you have to get one or buy a device to calibrate the one you are using.....don`t waste any time trying to do it without a calibrated monitor.
The best device to calibrate a monitor in the market today is the "X-Rite i1Display Pro".
Regards!
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2 hours ago, Mattias Burling said:
So far I have never seen any FS7 10-bit footage with more usable DR than Canon 8-bit C-log.
True, and to be honest, nobody will notice ether, I have never seen someone watching a scene and notice if it was shoot in 8-bit or 10-bit, you can see the difference in your 4k OLED TV putting both files next to each other, but thats all, I agree with @mercer and @jhnkng, if you are shooting with Canon 8-bit and screw up during the shooting and you are not able to push the footage enough to save the take, there is no way 10-bit is going to do it for you, but RAW, yes RAW could do it, so the C200 is perfect imo, 4k 8-bit for 90% of docs, and 4k RAW for movies and 10% of docs where the light is just crap....
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Too good to be true!!!!........clearly a good fake image........but I still dream someday we will something like that from Canon.
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Too much overpriced, I am shooting in a canon 814 xls for a lot less and the image is really good, the only issue is the realtime sound recording since super 8 cameras are very noise, anyway, you can always do foley and still the cost is a lot less.....
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13 hours ago, rasilov said:
Thanks to all. I was using an ext mic, but the digital noise is there with ext mic or its own mics. tupp what problems were you having?
Looks like the issue you are having is a broken unit or a microSD card issue as tupp suggested, mine is working perfect, I can get a clean signal in post...
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3 hours ago, rasilov said:
Thanks for that info. Really all I need is a recorder to record single channel mono (I don't even need stereo), but what is important is that there is absolutely no digital noise on the sound as there was with the Zoom H1. There must be no recorded noise other than the quantising noise which for 16 bits will be -96dB, and of course the mic hiss.
I guess you are using the H1 alone without adding an external microphone or shotgun, then the issue is there, if you use the H1 just as a recorded together with a good quality microphone or shotgun like a senheiser, the base noise in the H1 can be easily removed in post….
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18 hours ago, Arikhan said:
Hmm...I don't want to be a kill-joy for Canon haters and GH5 enthusiasts, but even the 8bit codec quality of the Canon C100 is not bad at all. It seems not much worse than the newer GH5 as seen here (very interesting blind test...):
...and now C-Log of the C100 vs V-Log of the GH5:
It seems, the "old" 8bit codec it's not bad at all...
I really don`t see much difference, Canon 420 8bit codec is really good, and the colors even better, but certainly if they said will be in the future an upgrade with a middle codec, they should at least add 422 8bit….
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All depends what are your goals, to be honest I will always choose to stay in just one brand, even more, I will choose to stay with just one lens, matching color later in post is really time consuming….since you are shooting in RAW you will probably make them match after a while, or close enough, but in my particular case after my last experience, I am now shooting with only two lens max, a zoom covering the whole range, and a 28mm prime for low light…..if you are going to shoot with two different brands I suggest to use one brand for extreme long to medium shoots and the other for close-up to extreme close up shoots….
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The advantage of 4K is that you can re-frame or stabilize the shoots before downscale to 1080p, that is very useful, but if you have a very good HD cam and you are good framing during the shooting, no much difference to be honest….
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39 minutes ago, Nicolas MAILLET said:
at home, i can run Resolve, open a project, see the timeline etc and when i'm going to pick a media up, it crashes without advertising... Simply crashes. On this computer i have some 5DIII RAW files, h264 files, RED RAW 4K DCI, some blackmagic files CDNG and prores, Panavision Genesys files, Sony F55 etc etc etc even Canon mxf files. No problem with previous versions of Davinci resolve...
The fact only happens with the Beta 14th version.
Beta 14th has a lot of bugs…..next time I will wait for the real thing before upgrade….it has been really frustrating to deal with all these issues….never again!!!
Canon M50 mirrorless camera features 4K video
In: Cameras
Posted
Ohhhh yes, every day this new baby looks better to my eyes, and the price is sooooo right.....finger crossed the specs leaked are correct....I think if this is the case...Canon is going to sell this baby like hot cakes.......and the GH5s is not going to sell like the GH5 at all. Sorry Panny!!!!