SR

I have 4 Zeiss lenses, 3 are vintage and a Planar 85 1.4 ZE and I love them because of the 3D and the bokeh also they are as sharp as any modern lens! My Sigma 18 -35mm is a little sharper and it's not flat, it has good dimension but it doesn't have nearly the pop the Zeiss lenses have! That Nikkor 50 1.4 pre ai is a stellar lens and I've used it before, I believe the ai and ais is basically the same except for the newer lenses have multi coatings but physically the same design, I either read that or heard that? There are other lens articles there worth reading, with concrete examples of way better micro contrast in the older designed lenses!

Here's your 2-handle holders:
 
 

I think it's mount, balance 'n play.
 
 

I noticed something strange with this charger during a recent trip to shoot. The batteries charged a lot faster (about two to three times) when plugged into my laptop than when it was plugged straight into a wall plug. 

I feel like I avoided that show for some reason, but I've obviously heard great things, and that clip was pretty awesome. arguing about anything YOUNGER than my generation.. and we might have a problem  things went downhill fast

I think I was a generation early for that show. Not to brag, but we had possibly the greatest masterpiece in animated television history. Cinematic score, dark tone, great voice acting (best joker ever), reinvention of  many characters (including Mr Freeze), art direction that was inspired by art deco,title-less intro, and especially its quiet moments --- this show had it all. 
 
 

Higher bit rates and raw video is my dream for NX1. I love the raw out of this camera. It blows away anything my Canon is capable of. I've taken a grossly underexposed photo of the city in the dark and managed to pull out such ridiculous amounts of details that I thought it was voodoo.

Higher bit rates and raw video is my dream for NX1. I love the raw out of this camera. It blows away anything my Canon is capable of. I've taken a grossly underexposed photo of the city in the dark and managed to pull out such ridiculous amounts of details that I thought it was voodoo.

For anyone who has not seen the effect for themselves - doubling the bit-rate will blow you away. 

The Panasonic GH2 had even more issues with the image quality than the NX1 does, and with the 150mbps hack the difference is HUGE.
EVERYTHING is better and all the problems of mush in the image and macro-blocking and colors breaking up all just vanished.

Really the only reason I don't use my GH2's as 'A' cameras is because their older design has less dynamic range...maybe 9-stops. 9.5 if your exposure is absolutely perfect.

If we were to double the bit-rate on the NX1 even the Noise Reduction and Sharpening would be FAR less of a problem because they would both be working with so much more image data.

This is a bunch of basic information about affordable camera support gear.
A lot of people who are new to all this Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera stuff (or DSLR sized cameras), and folks who don't have much money to spend have been asking me about all this lately. I don't have a lot of time to do gear reviews, so I decided to try to cram as much information as I could into this one video hoping to answer as many questions as I can all in one place.
Items covered in this video:
BMPCC Cages
Rail Systems
Shoulder Rigs
External Batteries
Follow Focus Devices
Matte Boxes
Cats and Dogs Living Together
Tripods
Jibs
Gimbal
Carry Case
*Note: The "one size fits all" cage I show here costs $149. I forgot to mention that.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqzJlgPjL_c
 
Some of the links I've been able to locate:
"One size fits all" Cage - $149
Movcam BMPCC Cage  - $323
Fotga Follow Focus - $170
Follow Focus Speed Crank - $13
Giottos Quick Release Adapter - $38
Offset Riser Clamp - $18
Cavision Matte Box - $99
 

It's unfortunate that there wasn't coverage of the beholder from the likes of Dave Dugdale.  I think he got a preproduction model and he's shrugged it off ever since and seemed pretty fed up with it.  I bought the H1+ because of his recommendation.  But maybe Beholder is nicer.  But, DPStewart said that be prepared to spend zero hours balancing it.  But in the video, it looks like you gotta balance it.  I can balance the H1+ in a few minutes.  Requires a tool.  PID settings....especially with a different lens and/or body, well that's another story.

Okay folks,

NO.
You cannot balance the DS1 with the giant Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 Art lens.
I used the Metabones Speecbooster's foot as the connection point instead of the BMPCC's own bottom mount, but it's still too front heavy.
By the time you move the mounting point far enough forward, the camera will hit the back of the cradle.
Now you could also add about 300 grams on top of the BMPCC - that would get the balance right - but by then you will be significantly over the DS1's max payload of 1.6kg.

Oh well...I never even suspected that would work anyway. This lens is a freakin' BAZOOKA.

The one lens that I really want to try that I don't have is the Samyang/Rokinon 16mm T/2.2 because that is a great lens, and their 10mm can be a little too wide sometimes even though it's a killer lens.

I have a couple of 20mm's that I've been using but I'm not knocked out with them. Nikkor Ai-s 20mm and a Voightlander 20mm pancake style. They are both "good" lenses, but they aren't "fantastic". I think 20mm is a length that just doesn't lend itself to great lenses maybe. I dunnno.
Anyone know of a really killer 20mm lens? I also have the Panny 20mm f/1.7 but that lens is also in the "good": category, but as an MFT lens I cannot speedboost it so it's really not a comparable 20mm even.
I've heard good things about the Olympus 17mm - but that's really close to the Sam/Rock...and the Olympus 25mm gets into the range of my Nikkor 28mm Ai-S which IS a great lens.

Anyone got any other recommendations?

Thanks.
 

Did some tests with the beholder ds1 and a lighter setup than the 5d, tried it with the sony rx10 II i used the step up plate and the lighter profile
took me 5 minutes and was good to go
 

I own a lumix cm1 and find it offers superb performance as a camera and as a phone.  battery life smokes an Iphone.  the images are also superb.  It aint just a smart phone.  It delivers stills just as good any fixed lens premium 1" sensor camera.  and it's always with you!  compact cameras take up another back pocket alongside your phone, car keys, wallet etc.
 
  

Beholder DS1.

Wonderful.

Be prepared to spend zero hours tweaking it.
Be prepared to spend zero hours balancing it.
Be prepared to switch from a heavy camera to a light one by pushing a little button 3-times.
I think the Beholder DS1 wins for exceptional engineering. 
And it is EXTREMELY compact and easy to tote around.
Got mine with 2 sets of batteries that each last about 3-hours. So 6-hours of shooting without a recharge.

This thing has changed the way I approach nearly ALL my shooting.
 
 
 

Sure. The Nebula 4000 started all of this, but was kinda iffy to work with, I mean, one of the reasons you might pick up one of these is because a mechanical glidecam takes too much practice. But this in turn takes way too much digging into balancing and tweaking of PID settings. 'Ain't nobody got time for that'. That's why I skipped the Nebula at first and waited for better days to come. Of course we had the Freefly MOVI that boosted the triple handle (2x sides, 1x top) gimbal stabilizers... then DJI came out with the Ronin and Ronin-M. Then we had everybody doing these kinda of things, especially the GoPro/smartphone ones. Feiyu Tech for example really jumped on that one. Then we started to up the controllers to 32-bit and dual IMU. One of the latest things is including 'encoders'. We get to see a lot more toolless designs for easier set-up. Slowly but surely it's getting to the point that you can bind-n-fly sorta say. DJI also released the Osmo, one of the first to really have a ready-to-go character, but from what I've gathered it needs to mature a bit more still... any one of these solutions for that matter.
I was really impressed with that one Pilotfly H1 video where they followed the kid on this little train.
Motion looked so fluid, organic and effortless compared to for example the Nebula 4000 which always seemed to have some mechanical correction going on, kinda throwing you off and distracting too.
Don't know. I know Dave Dugdale went with the Pilotfly because it's nice and low profile. Doesn't attract too much attention and is one of the lighter solutions. I kinda like that too! At the moment people seem to enjoy the Beholder one. I've seen good things with the MinisturdyFlight as well.
There are a couple of things I really think are important:
organic movement (latest and best tech!) easy set-up (maybe self balancing, you put it on a plate and mount it, the handheld gimbal will move the plate to a neutral position) no arm bracket on the left of the camera, but moved to the right. This way a vari-angle screen can still flip-out! low profile: compact & light, yet able to carry a little load remote control (perhaps even motion control system possibilities like Kessler's Cinedrive) battery life support price! Still don't have any of these solutions, because I don't think they're ready for prime time quite yet. But it's getting there.
The next generation of Pilotfly handheld gimbal stabilizers could surprise us. It will probably have encoders. And atleast from what I get from the picture... it might be the case that you can get one gimbal solution, to be 2 stabilizers. With the 2-in-1 unit you can use it as a pistol grip handheld stabilizer as well as to configure it in a Ronin-M kind of way. Actually, closer inspection shows one is branded T1 and other H2, so probably two separate units. They did seem to have swapped the arm bracket to the other side as well, allowing vari-angle screens to flip out.
At some point someone will come out with a terrific solution that does most things well... and with all these rapid advancements I think it could be any day now.

I have the Pilotfly H1+.  If you are a run and gun one camera one lens guy, this thing is perfect.  But prepare to spend hours tweaking it to perfection.  Not only do you have to tweak for smooth motion w/o vibration, you also have to calibrate it for battery life.  But once you get it tuned, you really can just hit the trigger and capture amazing video. The organic camera movements are what I like about it the most.  Walking, panning, still etc.  The battery life however, is abysmal.  About 1.5 hours if you've calibrated it optimally.  Badly calibrated (too much unnecssary power to any of the motors), you can zap the battery in about 15 minutes.  Where this power goes is beyond me.  A well tuned CameTV Single can run for 10 hours.  The H1+ for 1.5 hours.  Even a perfectly balanced and calibrated H1+ will die in 1.5 hours where the motors are not doing anything.
The external battery attachment to the base sold for $65 is actually an amazing addon because now you can shoot for 7-9 hours no problem.  All day without worry.  But keep in mind while the H1+ looks like a well crafted professional piece of electronics, the battery attachment's make and quality is insanely poor.  About the quality of imitation tupperware that you get at a dollar store.  But again, the batteries inside of it is what counts.  
Switching lenses is a hassle for every time.  But as long as you got the recipe down, you can do it on your smartphone, and it's not too bad.  But don't even think about trying to switch lenses on set if you don't already have the perfect set of numbers written on a notebook.  Change bodies on shooting day?  That's crazy talk unless you've practiced switching bodies like how a soldier practices how to disassemble/reassemble his rifle.  Then you can balance it and change the PID settings and calibration under 5-10 minutes.
Another thing about the H1+ is that it uses LiPo batteries.  The battery inside the H1+ is LiPo.  The batteries inside the external battery attachment, LiPo.  The alternate external battery solution they also sell is LiPo.  LiPo batteries are extremely high maintenance.  If you are going to buy a H1+ you should become an expert on the maintenance of LiPo batteries.  The fact that Pilotfly doesn't tell you to do this is a bit irresponsible.  my guess is because Pilotfly comes from the hobby R/C business and they just kind assume people know how to take care of LiPo batteries.  There are probably dozens to maybe even hundreds of LiPo battery fire videos on YouTube.  
In hindsight, should I have bought the CameTV Single?  For the battery life, the ease of changing lenses, bodies, I think this was the CameTV Single would have been a better purchase.  Reading about so many people with CameTV Single's battery issues, although I'm sure a handful of people are indeed experiencing battery issues, I believe most of this has to do with the lack of balance, lack of knowledge about calibration.  People have it so poorly balanced that the motors are working overtime, and on top of that, they probably are told to not worry touch the PID settings which leads to people not really knowing how to troubleshoot their issues effectively.  It's no surprise the battery dies really quickly for some people.  Becoming an expert at the H1+ makes me believe I can rock the CameTV Single for 10 hours on a single charge without battery issues.  But without becoming an expert in 3-axis gimble calibration and Basecam SimpleBGC, I don't think I'd know how to troubleshoot a CameTV Single if I bought that first because I would think my battery is defective.

Came Single is $1000, I paid $650 for the DS1, the Single weighs more but the DS1 has a much higher capacity - 2.6 vs 3.8 pounds.
Interesting they they're claiming 20 hour life when they use the same batteries as the DS1, but only 2 cells for the Single compared to 3 for the DS1.
Without a battery or lens the Micro weighs more than twice what a GoPro weighs (88g just the camera, 150g with housing vs 301g for just the micro body), I seriously doubt a GoPro gimbal will be able to handle the weight of the bare camera, much less one with a battery and lens. It will also be much more front heavy than a tiny go pro or a flat phone, that gives the small motor gimbals issues. I know someone that tried to rig his RX100 to one of the GoPro gimbals and it wouldn't stop vibrating, it was too heavy and it weighs just 298g with battery and card.
Not saying it won't work, but it seems unlikely. For a few hundred more you can get a larger gimbal that will work with no issues.

Brilliant! Thanks for explanation. 

FWIW, that film looked like absolute crap on IMAX.
I always considered a hipster to be someone ignorant that professes an unearned expertise.  Basically all looks, no substance.  Superficial.  I'd say that Quentin is a legit cinephile that is also somewhat accomplished at this point, yes?

I can also suggest to avoid shooting in 120p at high ISO. At 1600 details will be lost big time, I believe due to the bitrate too low for this framerate (?).

1) Don't ever shoot it above ISO 800, turns to absolute mush past that point.
2) Don't shoot with flat settings, in other words don't go past +6 black level or -4 contrast.

Yeah it does a look little mushy compared with the camera's normal output. Compare it to the 120p of an A7 and it looks fantastic.
The two things I've found that help the most are to have the subject well-lit and to have the camera on a tripod. I know those are the basics, but they do make noticeable differences in the quality of the slo-mo.
I haven't played with Twixtor. I'd be curious to see your results though if you'd care to post them.