Bold

So i've been waiting for bit for a while and patiently waiting for the Core DNA to come back in stock to finish my setup. Here is how she sits now! The new Rapido system is great. Had some custom step up rings machined by Raf in russia and everything mates together now. Once I get the rectilux i'll do an initial test then send away for cleaning/adjustment at super16 inc.

I recommend this app too.  Used it on my GH4 and G85.  Works really well and I really like the squeeze options.  Just a few notes:
- I like to change focus for AF using the touch screen.  However the screen goes into sleep mode after 10 seconds, and if I touch the screen it says "camera is under remote control".  So I have to go into the Panasonic Image App to change focus on the fly.
- G7 workaround is good for G85 and works well.
- very little lag
- for manual focusing especially with 2x anamorphics, using focus punch-in BEFORE recording also punches in the image on the app
- very good for handheld gimbal use.  So not just for anamorphic squeeze.  I'll take some pics of my setup later.
Although I thought it was pricey at first, this is a real great app.  Now I can use my iPhone 6s Plus or iPad Mini2 for a monitor and it works really well.  I'm used to my SmallHD DP4 with custom squeeze ratio, but this app is a way better solution.  Plus I can now record 4:3 anamorphic with monitoring and larger internal recording size.  I had to rent an Atomos Shogun before to monitor (and of course external recording) and it's also a hassle for all the wires and rigging.  This is a much simpler solution and easier for run-n-gun or mobile solutions.  Thank you Mjas for this great app!!!

Aaron, if you plan on doing any modding/adapting, it's worth getting yourself an affordable digital caliper off eBay.

They claim you can go as wide as 25mm. I have not tried yet. 28mm is fine even in 16:9. Size and weight is great, quality build is great as well as mounting. I think with a variable diopter, a lens hood to cut down on flares and shooting at f4 or f5.6, you can get a very nice image. I think it will do a good job at translating what ever your taking lens is in terms of character. I love that it is 1.75x so you can get the 2.35:1 ratio or 2.76:1. I wish it was multicoated and wish it flared a little less but it's a nice lens that has potential. I took this still with it. More to come. 

 

Is the 38mm the widest you can go with the GH4 in 4:3 mode?  So far, how do you like it in terms of size, weight, mounting, and IQ?

Here is the first thing I shot with the Aivascope. 
Filmed on a GH4 in 4k 4:3 for 2.35:1
Lens used - Aivascope and Olympus Zuiko 38mm f1.8 as taking lens. +1 diopter for a few close up shots. I use a lens hood to minimize flares. I shot at f/5.6 Quick coloring in Film Convert. Super harsh lighting but quick real world look. Flares would also be totally horizontal if I were on a tripod but it's mostly handheld.
 
 

I just wanted to share that I've released an iOS app that is kind of like the pana app, but full screen and with some basic image controls; anamorphic de-squeeze (1.33x, 1.5x, 2x) and brightness / contrast / saturation for working with V-Log.
Here's the App Store link: http://bit.ly/scopes-ios-app
Video showing lag is comparable or better than pana app
 
Scopes app + GH4 + SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x

 
Scopes app + G7 + Möller 2x
(G7 is not officially supported and needs you to start pana app first)

 
App Store link: http://bit.ly/scopes-ios-app

Btw, sliding V2 clamp with anamorphic lens on a rail is possible, so changing taking lens can be quickly done.
People asked about how solid is the V2 clmap.  I tried HIFI-2 (3.48lb), Bauch & Lomb attachment I (3.68lb), Bell & Hewell (6.49lb), See picture of holding them with the clamp on the rail. My tripod mount start titling when mounting the Bell & Hewell, but the clamp is still showing no sign of deflecting.
When playing with this clamp, I realize it could be also used as a handheld arm for holding the anamorphic lens & the camera together, just like the director view finder, see the picture below of KOWA 35mm anamorphic lens, Rokinon 85mm and GH4 held together by the V2 clamp.








It is coming, it will be a dedicated variable diopter, which is optimized for the modded lens, but it has standard thread size, not 75mm for sure, you can reuse it for other anamorphic lens, but result is not guaranteed. 

The mod project still going on, I am working on the front variable diopter solution now. The Modded lens will be mounted in the V2 clamp with dedicated variable diopter in the front. :-)

Hey, it's been a while since I last updated this thread! Lots and lots of new videos and a couple articles.

ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL PROJECTION LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9046
ANAMORPHIC COOKBOOK - BUYING YOUR FIRST ANAMORPHIC LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=8591
CHOP SHOP - 3D PRINTING FOCUS GEARS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9249
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - FM LENS
http://tferradans.com/blog/?p=9238
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - BELL & HOWELL ANAMORPHIC MOD
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9316
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - BOOSTING UP ANAMORPHIC FLARES
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9329
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ASSEMBLING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9376
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HACKING THE FM LENS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9409
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - ANAMORFAKE AMBER SET (37/58/85)
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9362
ON A BUDGET - FOTODIOX FUSION ND THROTTLE AUTO ADAPTER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9444
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - HELIOS EXTREME MOD MK II
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9379
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PANASONIC LA7200 FILTER HOLDER
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=7873
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - SCHNEIDER ES CINELUX MC 2X ANAMORPHIC
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=9383

Finally got some new products out by this year. When busy with the Rapido Mod project, realize I would need a real solid clamp for adapting larger anamorphic lenses. Thus, here comes the Clamp V2 with rail support. This clamp is designed based on the original M67-M77 verion of the clamp with additional features:
1: Anti-slip feature, the front of the clamp has standard 82mm male thread, and a lock ring is screw on to prevent the anamorphic lens from fall off during adjustment
2: Rail support feature, the external ring is connected to a beam, which can be assembled with standard 15mm rail based lens support bracket, like the one from Neewer, to provide rail support of the anamorphic lens.
3: Additional mounting options, the external ring has multiple standard M4 screw holes, which can be used for mounting additional accessories, like monitors, and etc.
4: Fast & easy change of anamorphic lens or taking lens, loosen the lock ring and three screws, the anamorphic lens is ready to be slide off from the clamp. Changing another taking lens is possible without readjusting the front anamorphic lens, just loosing the lens support bracket, and unscrew the taking lens from the camera, then you can screw in another taking lens to the clamp, and carefully locate the lens mount into camera.
5: Compatible with your existing step down/up rings, you can reuse existing step down/up rings, and pair them with this clamp. Say, you purchased a package before from us for your KOWA B&H lens, all you need is the V2 clamp to work with your KOWA and taking lens. No additional purchase needed.


Following is the setup process using Rokinon 85mm as taking lens, pair with Hypergonar H.F. 2X anamorphic lens on GH4 camera: 
Step 1: screw the correct step up ring on the taking lens
Step 2: screw the external ring onto the taking lens
Step 3: assemble the rail support onto the external ring, having the beam pointing down
Step 4: attach the lock ring onto the anamorphic lens
Step 5: screw the step down ring onto the anamorphic lens
Step 6: secure the camera on the rail
Step 7: attach the rail support to the Lens Support Bracket Mount Clamp from Neewer
Step 8: slide the anamorphic lens from front, and screw the lock ring onto the external ring
Step 9: adjust the orientation of the anamorphic lens by rotating the anamorphic lens
Step 10: lock down the anamorphic lens by tighten three M4 screws

 

The Helios I used in the video is just a plain 44 (not 44-2 or 44m) with a 13-blade clickless aperture.  I don't think there are major optical differences, but I don't know enough about them to say with certainty,  Soviet lenses are notorious for manufacture/design variations depending on year and factory of origin,  Early 44 versions have the gold coating, I believe the 44-2 and 44m all have purple coatings?  There is plenty of info out there on the Helios 44 line of lenses, maybe someone reading this knows of a URL that explains all the differences?  

Here is my new video "The Dark Side of the Aquarium"
A meditation on our environment and the state of humanity. Also a lens test
4K Baby Hypergonar 2:35.1 Georgia Aquarium footage cut to Pink Floyd.
Please watch on big screen with big sound
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKO5K0_68S0
 
 

test in field after work

Love the Zeiss IQ.  That purple flare is wonderful.
 

little upgrade of 35nap 2-3m. lighter weight, 3D-printed mount lens. test shots exact proportions only, no sharping. single focus in search. sony a6300, helios 44-2 f:2 (open aperture)

transformers like

Some footage right now from 35nap 2-4. This lens almost identical to 35nap 2-3m, little smaller, little difference with light streaks. Minimum focusing distance I have 50 cm

I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that.  But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done.  If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options.  You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA.
Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all they have to do is swap taking lenses.  Here's mine:

Fabrication can be tricky depending on the the size & weight of your anamorphic, and whether your anamorphic already has filter threads on the front & back. But once you are done, shooting becomes a lot easier.  If you do a search (especially in this forum), you will find a lot of different setups that users have created to accomplish this.
 
 

I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that.  But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done.  If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options.  You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA.
Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all they have to do is swap taking lenses.  Here's mine:

Fabrication can be tricky depending on the the size & weight of your anamorphic, and whether your anamorphic already has filter threads on the front & back. But once you are done, shooting becomes a lot easier.  If you do a search (especially in this forum), you will find a lot of different setups that users have created to accomplish this.
 
 

I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that.  But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done.  If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options.  You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA.
Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all they have to do is swap taking lenses.  Here's mine:

Fabrication can be tricky depending on the the size & weight of your anamorphic, and whether your anamorphic already has filter threads on the front & back. But once you are done, shooting becomes a lot easier.  If you do a search (especially in this forum), you will find a lot of different setups that users have created to accomplish this.
 
 

I don't know of anyone who has done this... I think most filmmakers want the flexibility to switch lenses quickly and easily. A single-bodied anamorphic solution that integrates the taking lens would prevent that.  But if you only ever wanted to use one taking lens, an "all-in-one" solution could be done.  If you want it to be single-focus (where the taking lens is set to infinity, and you focus with the anamorphic), this limits your options.  You would probably need an SLR Magic Rangefinder or Rectilux DNA.
Many people have made housings where anamorphic alignment is set once, then all they have to do is swap taking lenses.  Here's mine:

Fabrication can be tricky depending on the the size & weight of your anamorphic, and whether your anamorphic already has filter threads on the front & back. But once you are done, shooting becomes a lot easier.  If you do a search (especially in this forum), you will find a lot of different setups that users have created to accomplish this.
 
 

Good call. I abandoned the Cinelux idea and I'm sticking with the Singer 16D for now.

Aaron, if you plan on doing any modding/adapting, it's worth getting yourself an affordable digital caliper off eBay.

The B&H is a fantastic lens but requires some gymnastics to really get the most out of it.  I'm pretty proud of the mod and I believe it optimizes the B&H to its fullest potential.  Tito will be posting a review of it tomorrow.  In summary, to duplicate my lens modification, read through this entire thread carefully before starting.  You should have the following items:
B&H 16mm 2x Anamorphic Lens 58mm Helicoid.  You can use a 52mm but the 58mm diameter allows a closer fit,  The downside is you'll need to fabricate a retainer ring for the front glass element. Telescope Finderscope Clamp Lens Support Bracket Tap & Die Kit Cyanoacrylate adhesive Drill or Drill Press, and Table Vice 3D Printer ABS Filament Materials for making the polyurethane mold Silicone & Polyurethane Casting Material.  I recommend polyurethane Shore D Hardness; 75 (about the same durability as a construction hard hat) 58mm Lens Cap, and cap to fit over the silver Series VII Ring Matte Black Paint, Brush, and Thinner Degreaser and Lithium Grease Sandpaper / Cloth / Finishing Materials Gorilla Tape.  Not necessary but a little added protection around the polyurethane Epoxy NAPHTHA and Lens Tissue Micro Tools / Micro Screwdriver Set Digital Caliper with 0.01mm tolerance Expect to replace some parts during fabrication, like iterating the custom mold for the front housing, or breaking a helicoid, or throwing out a lot of failed 3D printing attempts.  Here is a breakdown of the labor steps required to produce the finished product:
Disassembling, re-greasing, and reassembling the heiicoid (helicoids bought off eBay come with poor quality, low viscosity grease). Removing the original front housing and front glass element. Thinning the matte black paint and painting the edge of the front glass element.  If you are lucky, your B&H's front element may already be painted. Combining the lens support with the telescope bracket.  The Cyanoacrylate creates a temporary bond between the bracket & clamp, allowing to you drill & tap the hole for the screw that will hold them together permanently Making the mold for the front housing.  Lots of trial-and-error here, make sure to read a lot about how to make molds. This is where your McGuyver skills and a trip to Home Depot comes in. Casting the polyurethane for the front housing.  Again, some homework is required here, planning, and a tightly sealed mold! 3d Printing an alignment collar for the helicoid to fit on the polyurethane front housing, the retaining ring to hold the glass element in the helicoid, and the follow focus gear. Assembling and gluing all the fabricated parts.  Make sure everything fits properly before applying that epoxy! Fit & finish (sanding, polishing, cleaning, etc.) Adjusting the bracket height, the anamorphic alignment and calibrating infinity focus Reviewing test footage to confirm the lens is ready for shooting If you’re doing this for the first time, expect to spend at least 1-2 weeks putting this together.  Honestly, even with all the information in this thread I think it will take longer than that.  If you have a full time job, expect the process to take a few months.  This is not a short-term project, it requires immense patience, but the rewards are excellent!  When finished, what you achieve — and I’m typing it again, because it bears repeating — are the following features:
Single-focus Infinity focus Follow focus gear for rack-focusing, with a generous throw that allows for precise focus Re-greased helicoid for smooth focus action  Minimum focus of just under 1m for the 14mm helicoid version, and just under 30cm for the 30mm helicoid version (that is the closest focus of ANY anamorphic I know of). Beautiful 2x bokeh Superb, stable 15mm rail support that locks in alignment and reduces the time between switching taking lenses Nylon alignment screws that won’t scratch the anamorphic Compact and lightweight (the modded B&H + custom bracket = 866g. In comparison, a 16H + Rangefinder is 880g without the lens clamp, filter clamp, and rail support) 58mm front thread for diopters or ND filters, and a Series VII rear thread The side of the front element is painted matte black to reduce internal barrel reflection and preserve the amazing flares Reversibility: The custom front housing can be removed and replaced with the original housing An ideal anamorphic for micro four-thirds filmmakers I encourage any B&H owner to do this mod.  The question you must ask yourself is how much time and money you’re willing to spend to get to a final, usable product.  If you have a lot of the equipment already (especially the 3D printer, tap & die kit, etc.) or your own workshop, you will save some money.
But for those who don’t have the time or resources, I will be selling my mods for around $1000 (depending on the quality of the original glass, and whether it’s a 14mm or 30mm helicoid).  Some of you may think this is expensive, but considering all the work that goes into it, and the value of all the features listed above, I believe this is a fair price.
This is a complete, turnkey anamorphic solution: You put the B&H mod on rails with your camera, and start shooting.  No other purchases are necessary.  If you are interested please message me, I will be be putting the mods up on eBay once Tito has sold his,
Some of the proceeds will help me recoup the parts & materials I went through during R&D.  Some will go to purchasing a lens from Tito (which will help fund his efforts).  Some of it will go towards my next project: modifying the Bausch & Lomb Projection lens.  I will add the same level of detail and information to that thread as I've done here.
I'm not trying to turn this thread into an advertisement for my mod.  I’d love to see other B&H owners continue innovating, modifying, testing, shooting, and posting to this thread to find new ways to get the most out of this great piece of glass!  I will continue to answer questions where I can, but I expect my participation on this thread will wane as I turn my eye towards my next projection lens project 
Keep on modding!