sondreg

http://www.fangsfilmgear.com/wolf-packs.html - This is the only thing I've heard of, personally don't have a lot of cards so don't have one of these. You put ready to use ones in one satchel, and used up ones in the other. Then as you clean the footage off you put them in the correct satchel.

What I use is a simple 4x SD Card Case for 5 bucks

If you use a lot of different application you might want to use Symlink in ur project folders. - since your using FCPX I assume you are on a mac. I don't recall the exact name but I think the software I use was called Symlinker, very easy to setup. It's essentially a folder 'shortcut' that acts as a real folder.

Keep 1 master LUTS folder where you store and organize, and symlink it in every programs LUT directory.

A thought that popped into my head while reading this - I know for a while back I was trying to understand why scrolling texts in premiere had such issues with jitter.

I discovered that it was due to premiere using only whole numbers only in their positional values (in cc2015), meaning if moved a text 0.5 pixelsteps per frame, it would only move 1 pixel per 2 frames. Which is OK. However the problem arises when the value doesn't end up as a whole number consistently, which would cause it to jump an additional pixel.

Such as moving at 1.2 pixels per frame

1.2 = 1 pixel moved
2.4 = 1 pixel moved
3.6 = 2 pixels moved (an inconsistency)

to easily fix this you could just add a small blur

I'd assume it's the same with motion cadence where pixels can't be on decimal levels like vector graphics - and how the position of the pixels in the algorithm of the camera determine what causes the motion cadence

Been using the new update for my last few projects now - been pretty happy about the editing process, coming from premiere! Except I'm pretty unimpressed the fairlight panel (using the free version)

Splitting stereo tracks into mono are a nightmare, unless you do it before placing them in a timeline  (on multiple clips at a time). Maybe there is a really easy way to do this? If so please tell me...

Also don't like the Fairlight ui layout much at all, I'm not sure why they made the mixer so minimalistic. Double clicking the pan box to find the pan-pot seems a little intuitive on stereo channels. Keeping track of auxes and buses is also difficult considering they are just small tiny lines of color that are hard to click on. 

But what I like the least is that the effects panel are not organized! I use a bunch of plugins from Waves but they all fall in one main category "Audio FX". Hitting the +Effects tab on a mixer track fills the entire screen.

Tried to mix some music in it aswell, importing an older multitrack project, didn't find a way to place it in a timeline on different tracks.

It's also strange that the audio panel is the only one where you can undock the video and put it on a second display without using external hardware. 

Can someone tell me if the paid version improves the Fairlight panel?

Image imo doesn't look that bad. Shame about the amount of noise @ the night scenes in the western one. 

Has anyone noticed if the EVA1 displays its battery percentages? All the pictures I've seen of the display only have the bar indicator

This was just posted 30 mins ago on the same channel - seems to just be a different grade

On 9.9.2017 at 0:00 PM, sondreg said:

Anyone know how transferring the license works now without the dongle? I.e. can you still install it on two machines - but this time without the dongle? 

Did some reading up on this and gathered (and im not sure if this is 100% true) that if you purchase the App store version you can install it on as many APPLE computers using the same app store ID, but it's not cross platform. Can anyone confirm that you need two licenses if you want to switch between a laptop & windows computer?

Anyone know how transferring the license works now without the dongle? I.e. can you still install it on two machines - but this time without the dongle? 

Different codecs will have a lot of impact yes, so if you're going big it's best to transcode everything into the same format, the newer version of Premiere allows you to automatically transcode all footage as ur ingesting and still being able to edit. You can also use Adobe Encore for the transcoding upon ingestion.

Also the way you import footage can have a lot of impact on performance, even though the files aren't actually added (such as XMLs that aren't accepted or text files from importing folders). So when you import files in a bigger project, make sure to only import files supported by Premiere.

It may benefit you to transcode every video file over night(s) and relink the media to the transcoded version.

Not so sure of how the 2 different versions compare to indexing though, but maybe increasing cache size or something to store the index data is possible?

Could anyone recommend any decent 70-200mm lenses for photography & video? Using canon ef mount (aps). I'm looking at the Sigma 70-200 2.8, Tamron 70-200 2.8 or possibly a used Canon 70-200 2.8 mk1 (so a bit budgety)

Currently only got a sigma 18-35 which is a little too wide for me. Might also pickup a 50mm sigma art lens in near future. What lens combos are common with the sigma 18-35? Do people usually grab a 24-70 or how do people get that middle ground? The 50-100 Doesn't really appeal to me. Thanks

A lot of broadcasting companies have these kind of lists of what cameras to use aswell, but no ones gotten in trouble for using different ones ever. As long as the bitrates good enough and the quality is up to speed then choice of camera doesn't matter.

I've never had any problems using the 28-70 on Fotodiox Pro Nik-EF one, which is around 1000grams. But it might not be ideal if you change lenses a lot, as I've read the pin that holds it in place can break during lens transfers (personally never had this issue).

8 minutes ago, Geoff CB said:

Go with this option, great combo. Do you already own canon glass?

I've sold every nikon lens I had (which weren't many) because I'm transitioning, so atm no I don't own any EF glass but plan on grabbing a 24-70 2.8, haven't looked too far into it yet.

Also have access to a 70-200 F4, canon 24-105 f4

Was never a big fan of the screens or ergonomics on the A6xxx series, maybe I should get used to it though. Not sure where the cheap prices come from though, as the cheapest camera body I find is 980€, 1700€ with adapters. Definately a strong camera but personally not a big fan of it

2 hours ago, Trek of Joy said:

I still use the wired aluminum Apple keyboard from a 2010-ish iMac - mostly because of the USB inputs (so I don't have to give my machine a reach around every time I want to plug in a thumb drive), the full width keypad with real arrow keys (I use them a lot), the typing feel and no batteries to futz around with. Pair it with the Magic Trackpad and its nirvana.

They can be found super cheap. I have a spare in case one craps out on me. Got one like this for $5 new in box.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Wired-Keyboard-With-Numeric-Key-Pad-Compatible-With-Mac-OSX-v-10-6-8-/263065547648?hash=item3d3fedb380:g:d3cAAOSw9~5ZVyRN

If you get an actual USB 3 hub you'll practically 10x ur transfer speeds 

I don't remember what they're called but there are already robots for some television broadcast like podcasts and stuff, kinda like the way Google hangouts automatically switches the source to whoevers talking. So in broadcasting world robots are already starting to take over, and I guess a lot of editing will be assisted by this technology but I really don't believe it will replace anything with complexity such as a music video or art.

Because I'm moving more into a video camera system which would only do video I'd like to get something that would allow me to capture stills aswell.

Ideally I'd want an EF mount so I can use the same glass.

I have about a 1000 euro budget and want to get everything 2nd hand. Don't care too much about video quality but obviously more the merrier.

Currently eyeing a used Canon 7D mk 2, which I use at work sometimes, but then theres a used Canon 760D WITH the sigma 18-35 f1.8 for about the same price with a lens. What are my other alternatives? And how do the 2 compare, supposedly the 760d has more mpx and higher DR, also shoots to SD cards. 

I do portraits, travel/street, little to no sports, landscapes and wanna try to get into wildlife

Thanks!

Depending on how long term this is for and what kinds of projects, I'd heavily recommend you get a proper workhorse camera, they're not necessarily that much heavier & you get tons more ergonomics.

Built in ND, XLRs and long lasting batteries, good zoom lenses will give you way easier workflows than carrying around a case full of primes, nd filters & a zoom recorder IMO. It wouldn't eat all your budget so you could still get something like a GH5 as a stills/b-cam, or a stills-dedicated camera.

The soon-to-come Panasonic EVA1 is only 1,2kg and would compliment a gh5 nicely - it actually weighs a bit less than the GH5 with body only! It should be less than 8000$, but obviously isnt released yet. Leaves you with plenty of money to spare & you won't need to purchase and drag around zooms & NDs

For lenses you could go for some more  24-70, 70-200, 14mm, or go with 18-35, 50, 70-200, + a wide angle prime for gimbals if necessary 

How would you go about lenses? I'm looking into grabbing a GH5 myself starting from scratch but not sure if grabbing a speedbooster's worth it...

IMO what DAW you use doesn't really matter other than personal preference, what does matter is plugins I usually use Waves, grabbed the Gold-bundle and the API-560 EQ a while back and those have been my gotos, X-Noise is pretty neat too but haven't purchased that one yet.

I use Cubase, but didn't purchase the full version for OMF support, still works great for me tho, found it to be more user friendly than reaper (which is probably the best for the money).

You can use this formula: 256GB/((MB/s * 60)/1000)

Prores 444 XQ = 17 min on single 256GB Card

Prores 444 = 26 min

Prores 422 HQ = 39 min

Prores 422 = 58min

Prores 422 LT = 84 min

I'm located in Norway, but retail shipped it to UK for service

Update: Sent my NX1 into service and it was repaired and covered by warranty - replaced a 'PCB' at the top of the camera and is now working