sondreg

1 hour ago, derderimmermuedeist said:

Why did you send the camera in repair?
Did a hack destroy it?

 

I use the Vasile hack since it has been published ... and had only once little problems.

I deinstalled it and installed it new ... no problems until today.

The internal mic stopped recording any sound all of a sudden, even if the hack has little to no problems I'd feel a little uneasy doing 3hr gigs and not knowing if the footage survives or not...

20 minutes ago, derderimmermuedeist said:

The "value of the money" is on top ;-)

And there is no more recording limit.

Did Samsung themselves remove recording limit? I've already had to send my camera in for repair once, so I don't wanna void the warranty by using one of the hacks...

Not to ruin the party but calling it "this is a money is no object rating any price criteria" seems odd when the only thing keeping it up in the top 10s are the "Value for money" critera - on the other hand, did Nx1 prices go way up? I only had to pay 940$ for mine brand new (in Norway) - My only complaint is the lack of proper audio support and recording limit, after using C300s and Fs5's at work that would really be useful in most of my freelance gigs, but I'm struggling to find an upgrade from it in terms of the gratification of using it and the image quality, atleast without going 10x on the price...

Hey, I was just using my NX1 today doing a small video, was shooting in the rain for about 90 minutes and everything worked well, footage turned out well etc. So I set it out to dry. (This is using a NIK/NX adapter btw.)

But later I had another gig, out in the sunlight this time and when I got back I noticed no audio was recorded (using internal mic) - every clip just has this initial 1 second hiss sound that fades away, and the peakmeters show no life at all. Anyone had this happen? It works using external mics but I sort of rely on using the internal one...

It depends on a lot of factors like the size of your room and acoustics. For a small environment you usually don't need to focus that much on big diaphragms and/or subwoofers. Personally I sit in a small environment so I got a (cheapish) pair of Yamaha HS5's, they work great for me but they are a little shoddy at the low end (mostly because of acoustics). If I had a bigger room I'd consider the Hs8 model, these should also provide more bass but I have no real experience with these.

I'd say try some and see what works best for your environment.

In Google Chrome you have the option to use hardware acceleration in the settings, this is usually turned off. I know that in youtube this fixes a gamma shift, maybe it fixes color shift too? Haven't tested anything with vimeo myself...

By "not clean" I meant that the 4K source renders a better 1080p timeline, aka. its better (quality wise) to shoot 4k instead of 1080p when delivery is 1080p. Uncompressed would probably have been a better word than "clean"

24 minutes ago, xanderman said:

Sorry, I'm not a professional film maker or gear expert, but please permit me to ask anyways; if your final product is delivered in maximum 1080p, does that mean all of your raw footage should also be filmed at a maximum of 1080p, and your camera should have a maximum resolution of 1080p for video?

I know I've captured a few stills from video from my nx1, and I was very happy that I used 4k video for that particular video, because it allowed me to get stills that are actually of high enough quality to use, whereas in some of my older cameras stills captured from video were basically useless.

The same is true of video editing.  Sometimes I zoom in or crop video, or simply align it to the horizon by rotating and cropping, with 1080p footage and losing some data through cropping/zooming the resulting image, if filmed at 1080 or lower, is it then less than 1080 and upscaled during processing?  If that is how it works, is that the preferred method and I'm doing it wrong?

So, i guess what I'm asking, is it really a waste of time to have capabilities in a camera beyond the requirements of the final product, or does it add versatility in editing?

Recording at the best possible quality is obviously better - if it's available to you. The NX1 doesn't record a clean 1080p image, meaning downsampling a 4K image will result in a cleaner 1080p image...

edit: removed text - realize it was renting price not sale price...

I'm guessing you want to make the audio as dry as possible?

The only thing you can do is to add dampening as much as you can and get closer to the audio source...

in pic: Red is direct audio, blue is reverb.

Cardioid would help a ton as it won't capture as much of the reverberation coming from behind the mic.

Another option is obviously to do ADR (replace audio in post) and add reverb to taste later.

On 6.1.2017 at 9:55 PM, Parker said:

@Kisaha

I've got images and video I've made with it that I can post if people are interested, but once again I just haven't taken the time to do super scientific comparisons or anything. It's just immediately become a part of my image-gathering workflow and I consider it money very well-spent. 

please do!

2 hours ago, kinjo said:

I'm looking for a new 1TB SSD,

 

 

Can anyone help me to find the best one?
 

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15efDoJJEaew-7WdoCDim5anYvbdSXnVjOH-RRD656Ws/edit?usp=sharing

Created a spreadsheet for calculating fullframe equivalents based on F-stop and sensor, it's a little messy I apologize. I'm not sure how to properly setup a google sheet document for public sharing (individual values) - if you do know please tell me so. I'm not a math guy so it might be off some.... 

I'm not sure if this is actually useful, I'm tired and didn't really read the whole thread

With this you can calculate specs on FF equivalent lenses for different sensors for the same result.

Please correct me if the maths wrong

Grabbed a Zeiss Planar 50mm on craigslist for my Nx1 and took it for a quick test run, very pleased with the results!

It still depends on what codec you are shooting with. 16GB of ram has sufficed for me personally, more will probably help but no less. With 4K H265 I use a standard HDD, a not so ideal i7-3770 processor (4 physical cores) and an AMD Fury X, also not "ideal" per sè, playback is fine, but any adjustments kill the playback speed. I don't think disk speeds matter that much for playback.

It depends on the RAW format and bitrate - but keep in mind the speed of the drive shouldn't affect the playback speed of a clip that has been altered with, because it's still playing back the same file. A good graphics card will help more. CPU doesn't do as much when it comes to price/performance. I would personally still recommend an SSD but not for storing footage, unless if its going to be its only purpose.

Just use the custom WB on something white for the sake of simplicity. It doesn't take long and is very reliable.

What SD card are you using?

Friendly reminder: Log capabilities, not blog.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALsx-HDJjE I think this might help resolve the warping

Halogens would be nice, but the studio we're using doesn't have that great ventilation so it heats up quickly. The lightstorm kit looks amazing, if they release within the next 2 weeks I'll probably get those, even though they're a little over budget. Are there any kits of 3s or more people would recommend? 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1031521-REG/genaray_spectroled_studio_500_bi_color.html - These are more in my price range for now, but maybe I'm being stubborn. 

Hey all, I've got a couple of gigs in august and I'm in need of a light kit. Normally I would have easy access to renting a kit for free, but that time has just passed so it's time for me to pick up a kit of my own. I have a budget of around 800£, the less I have to spend the better. Something like the Scorpion light kit would be ideal for my uses, but I'm not sure if I get enough bang for buck, and the lack of user experiences around the web scares me. Any advice? (I work in a crammed studio environment so versatility is a huge bonus)

Thanks

To me it has always been a matter of comfort. Albeit I haven't used that many cameras (still sort of new to the game) and only do small gigs for family and miscellaneous projects (not for much pay). I use a 700D/T5i and I find the ease of use to be benefitial when on set. I've tried borrowing a friends a7s multiple times but I end up focusing more on the camera than on the creative side. With the canon I'm able to start shooting instantly because that's what I'm most comfortable with.

The flaws (moire, noise, etc.) never really bother me whilst I'm recording but it gets annoying after a while watching it repeatedly in post, which is why I keep considering an upgrade. But at the end of the day it does the job that needs to be done. although I will probably replace my 700D as soon as possible to feel better about myself when editing/daydreamining shots  It will probably be a great motivational boost too.

Any good ideas on how I should kit some old m42 lenses with filters? I have a Helios 44-2 (49mm filter size) and some Petri lenses (55mm 1.8, 135mm 2.8, 35mm 2.8) which seem to be 52mm, 58mm, and 55mm in filter size. A Takumar 28mm 3.5 SMC (looks to be 49mm filter size), and a Raynox 35mm 2.8 (52mm).

Will 3 step-up rings from 49mm, 52mm and 55mm to 58mm work just fine or should I not bother? Thanks.

Anyone had any experiences with the old Nikkor-H 85mm 1.8? I picked one up on the cheap recently but I'm not sure if it'll see much use for video, but I've been able to use it on EOS mount. I also picked up a Helios 44 (8 bladed) 58mm, and a Nikon 28mm 2.8 AI-s (which I really like)

Also how does one go about cleaning the insides of the bourne lens?