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Liam

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Posts posted by Liam

  1. I don't know, I think it's just kind if easier for a picture to look nice if it's black and white. Which if that's the case, it's maybe the opposite of what you want. Though it does take color out of the equation. Doing a shoot on a single prime, I think is a good way to practice framing. Maybe grab a different focal length each time. maybe stop down to f16 if you can to avoid leaning back on the dreamy bokeh or whatever to make a shot look nice. Maybe consciously say you're centering the subject sometimes or you're using thirds or you wanna throw both of those out the window and do something weird that still looks good (I really hated learning the "rule of thirds", and I'm no pro, but there could be something to just ignoring that). and bringing your camera with you more, of course I wish I didn't feel weird doing that

  2. Yeah, nx1 has very similar rolling shutter to the a7sii, and seemingly a very logical step up from a t3i.. I've heard it quite a few times. I've also heard some people use it up to iso 2000 comfortably, and that in comparison with the t3i, you just don't need as much iso to get the same exposure, not sure anyone could confirm that, though. It is really sharp though, probably the same cause of a digital feeling from the gh4, but idk.. done better in the nx1? So that's also unscientific.. also, not sure what actual issues you'd be caused by it having been discontinued.

    There's the ls300 at $3000 new, which looks real nice, though not sure about straight out of camera footage from it if that matters to you. You'd still have some punch in ability from a bmcc, which is an amazing camera. Not sure what else to consider in that range. I'm honestly not sure I'd be more interested in a 4k 5div than an nx1, if it even happens

  3. 6 minutes ago, DBounce said:

    After reading the article in noticed his comments on rolling shutter 

    RS has not really been a big concern for me in the past, but still nice to hear it is a non-issue with the 1DX Mkii.

    Don't you own the camera? You can see for yourself. Too often reviewers use a camera like the a7rii in a real world test and say later "barely any rolling shutter at all!" It's possible.. and could be better than the 1dc, and it's not a huge concern of mine, but I wouldn't take that as gospel

  4. I realized a while ago white balance that was way too blue cleaned up really well and easily in post, while way too warm fell apart immediately. And actually at the time, I had green dialed way up in my camera by accident, so at "correct" white balance it was also pretty ugly after trying to fix it. Not sure this translates to like every compressed video camera, but intentionally making it blue could maybe bypass and be better than a greenish or whatever tint in a Sony when trying to do it properly. Anyone else have experience with this phenomenon? Obviously not at all helpful for delivering right out of camera

  5. 1 hour ago, Kristoferman said:

    I watched that video assuming the left side was Ursa given the opinions here that the skin tones look better on the BM. 

    I think the ursa skin tones are way too magenta. I prefer the look of the kine.

    Yeah, I preferred the kine as well. not sure I saw a magenta problem in the ursa. Maybe the kine reminded me of Red colors, like orange skintones, which I've come to like

  6. I've been really liking using my nikkor 50mil along with cheap wide angle and telephoto adapters. It wouldn't be for everyone of course, but looking at it like staying on a budget and minimal gear, works for me. The attachments actually kind of give it interesting "character" wide open for portraits, and at 5.6 they're really sharp. Since it's a fullframe lens at a long ish focal length, on an apsc body, I think I avoid most of the possible terrible corners. The wide angle has some barrel distortion, but fine by my standards. Plus for color and contrast they all still match really well together. I know that's kind of cheating ;)

    I was thinking if I went smaller sensor I'd get a 24 or 28 mil and keep the adapters and get the coverage I like and only spend like $80 more.

  7. 59 minutes ago, Ebrahim Saadawi said:

    I'e been out of the camera world and EOSHD for a while so i'd like to know some stuff about this new intruguing camera. As far as I understand it's a little box like camera with a 6k 14stops chip or 5k 15stops sensor based on user choice but both shsre the same camera body/features? I see it records raw and prodres in all resolutions and to regular SSDs. Is that all correct? Couple of questions: How is it powered, big V-lock needed or is there an internal battery (deal breaker for me)? Does it cave an LCD to change settings/frame the image/focus or just relies on an external monitor? Does it have an in-camera 1080p ProRes when needed? What is the maximum frame rate and cropped or binned from entire frame? Is the supplied Kine to EF mount adapter an active one (powers STM lenses, image stabilization, iris control)? Is the speedbooster they make active and is like the regular kine to EF bt with optics? Des it have internal audio and if so XLRs? 3.5mm in? hEadphone jack? Does it have an SDI&HDMI output? Does it have ND filters? And lastly how adaptable is the kine mount? I can use m42s and nikkors on the EF adapter but since the mount is shorter can I TAKE advantage of it and adapt more glass? Oh and what's thr price for a fully wprking kit (body with a monitor to see and power and an ef mount) and does the only distributor in berlin shop internationallt (Egypt) or just in europe? Sorry i knoW it's a lot of questions but would really appreciate if domeone gave me the in and down of this camera, genuinely thinking of owning one with the SB as a small FF/Vsavision 5k 15stop camera with EF munt!

    Kine mount is just a shorter PL mount I believe? Not sure all the options, but in theory should be really adaptable. The electronics for canon glass doesn't work with autofocus, but does work with iris control, not sure about IS.

  8. A g7 sounds like overkill. Yeah, maybe a twenty dollar tripod and little mount for your phone, if you'll even need a tripod. Maybe a compact like an rx100 mk I. A gf-3, an nex-7. I wouldn't go fancier than a used t3i (newer generations in the rebel series are just pointless - even the t3i is barely better than the t2i) or a g6. If you're confident in your computer, a g7 is an awesome camera, but to find out 4k is slow on your computer would be a bummer later, or if you're using a free editor with limitations, 4k might look terrible when poorly downscaled

  9. 1 hour ago, tugela said:

    The trouble is that many equate resolution with oversharpened, because they are looking for soft footage.

    Ahh, that's interesting. Yeah, I saw the hateful eight on film. it definitely wasn't sharpened digitally, and it definitely wasn't soft. Though I still feel I'm seeing sharpening in these nx cameras, I just suspect it's better sharpening than others. Or that it's such high res and sharp, the combo, you don't see the downsides of it until you punch way in

  10. 2 hours ago, RieGo said:

    regarding the sharpness: i'm starting to believe -10 = no post sharpening, like someone else suggested. i did some tests with many details and sharpening -10. i couldn't find any interpolated edge sharpening, which is usually visible by ringing artifacts. my consumption: the oversharpening some are seeing is a result of a downsampler, probably bicubic ... is there a way to change this? i don't know.

    Wouldn't that mean the nx500 4k at -10 sharpness doesn't have the oversharpemed look people talk about?

  11. 11 hours ago, aldolega said:

    Am I wrong in thinking that the "ND Sled" has to be removed to have no ND? If so, that's ridiculous. The site says two filters, three settings, which would seem that there is no clear/off setting- just filter A, filter B, or A+B: so three settings. Maybe I'm overanalyzing...

    Yeah, that concerned me too.. though in a way I like the idea. Having to mess with screws whenever you want to change nds takes out most of the internal nd fun for me. Also, if you just take it out and leave it out, isn't the sensor exposed to dust or flares? So really if you want no nd, you have to take out the nd and screw in a slide with an empty hole in it? Ha. I didn't look too closely in the site to see if that was explained more.

    The speed mount design looked kinda cool, but if there are only like 3 options and they're all kinda pricey, it would probably have been better just to have a fixed mft and adapt it yourself.

  12. 6 hours ago, tellure said:

    DBounce, I'm curious if anyone's done any kind of controlled testing on the motion cadence issues you mention.  Obviously this is much harder than comparing Canon color to Sony color, but I'm wondering if there is any kind of visual comparison that can be done to visually highlight these differences.  For example, same controlled scene with an object moving at a controlled rate past two cameras set to the same shutter / aperture / ISO-equivalent.

    Feels like it would be enlightening if we were able to narrow in on the specific visual differences in motion cadence.

    There was a side by side comparison with the a7s and f35 in an old thread about motion cadence, but to me it showed rolling shutter more than cadence issues, kind of cheating. In Philip Bloom's a7s review, in his talking head, his hands when he gestures seem to move really weirdly, and I think I've come to see that as more of a cadence issue, though for a long time I was convince the shutter speed was wrong or something. I know it's not in direct comparison, but that's where I've seen it the worst probably. 

  13. It just looks like the highlights aren't blown all the way, so to keep some contrast, the dark areas get really dark. That's how I see a lot of bright-ish daylight videos. Stylistic in grading I would think, nothing to do with the camera, which has plenty of dr to change up the grade, and I don't dislike this look at all

  14. So, out of curiosity, I heard the terra sensor is the same as the kinemax sensor? So like a crop of it? Does that mean the custom speedbooster is not quite full frame? I think in the kinemax, it speedboosts to about 1.1x? Not that it would be much of a downside, and I may have my facts screwed up, just wondering

  15. 1 hour ago, mkabi said:

    In fact, sensor size and frame rates has to be better than a7sii to warrant $2899 from a relative unknown.

     

    It has to be bigger than full frame?Anyway, this will be different because it's a cinema camera. I assume that basically means raw, which neither the a7sii nor that kickstarter camera have. What will set it apart at that price, as a cinema camera, will hopefully be things like mft mount, super35 sensor, built in nds, high frame rates, competitive dynamic range, pleasing image, competitive iso performance, ergonomics. But at $2000, the bare bones bmcc, without hfr, impressive ergonomics, nds, 4k, or s35 sensor, is still a real stunner and worth every penny. For the craft camera, that is an impressive price for a cinema camera, depending on the specs and image. I assume on paper it'll look closer to the ursa mini 4.6k with slightly less resolution, but for less money. So we'll see

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