anti12

Amazing job, @BTM_Pix. If I had a Pocket, for sure would be joining the campaign.
Any plans to make a Panasonic version? (Ideal would be a Olympus one, but judging from the lack of controls of the Oly app, probably the protocol is very bad)

Thanks.
Yes, a Panasonic one will happen reasonably soon.
 

Thanks for the feedback.
Here is a sneak peek at what I've just finished developing.
It is an interface that you plug the Contour Shuttle devices into which then enables you to use them via Bluetooth LE in LumaFusion to control it.
 

I only recently connected my keyboard in hope it will somehow enable audio scrubbing. (It doesn’t)
I can see myself using the J, K, L, I, O,  arrow and space keys a lot.

No, it has morphed slighty into a Leica/Panasonic/Sony controller and will be available soon both as the pocket version here

But also the larger version with focus wheel as shown here with the Pocket4K

There will likely be a Wifi version of 3C for them as well.

Have you ditched the Panasonic/Sony controller you were previously working on? 

Got my DJI Ronin S a few weeks ago and while digging through the app realized that I could program tilt and pan moves and repeat them. I paired the Ronin S with a motorized slider creating a small motion control system. This allowed for some interesting VFX in a music video I just shot. I was able to created several versions of the singer interacting with himself while the camera moved around following the action. Check it out:
 
 

Hypothetically speaking, would something that did the following be of any interest to Panasonic (both GH5 and non-GH5) owners ?
8 focus points (pulled from current lens position so can be either using touch AF or manual etc) 4 auto transition speeds between points Manual transition between points Manual focus adjustment All driven from dedicated hardware switches.
And wirelessly.
From a handheld device.
Hypothetically speaking obviously......

Thanks for the update Nick!  Bummer that the Helder didn't work out, but it opens the door for experimentation with other glass element to perhaps get a sharper, wider field of view.  Keep on tinkering!
Thanks!  Would love to see pics of your setup once you get your collar back from the machinist!
I am extremely pleased with my final product, and will be making it available for purchase to those that are interested :-)
 
Cheers,
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EDIT >>>>>
OK
After harvesting commands, I can confirm that as I suspected it is game over for VLOG on the GX80/85.
You all owe me £3.99 for that discovery 
 

Hello, my GH4 is still on Firmware 2.3
The Android version of Gmonitor app recently added the feature to change Cinestiles.
I am now able to select and use V-Log L.

I remember this lens doing the rounds a couple of years back on ebay by the original seller - I  did a little research back then.
It was a part of a small run of lenses configured by Century at the request of Lars Von Trier when he was shooting on DVCAM. To enable a small part of the film to be shot 'native' 2.35:1 (bulk of the film was cropped 16x9) So expect this lens to work best with smaller sensors and when higher resolution is not critical. Can be considered a Century/Optex grade optic, but with a different stretch ratio. Current seller of lens used to be a member of this forum before he got banned. He's probably still here, under a different name. 

I wanted to share my new video I shot with the Baby Hypergonar. Olympus Zuiko 38mm f1.9 was taking lens. 60 time lapse over 3 months. Watch with a glass of wine before bed because it's a real sleeper
 

@mjas It works without the panasonic app.

Hello Marcus, thanks a lot for this useful app. I can confirm that it also works with the Panasonic G6.

I just wanted to share that I've released an iOS app that is kind of like the pana app, but full screen and with some basic image controls; anamorphic de-squeeze (1.33x, 1.5x, 2x) and brightness / contrast / saturation for working with V-Log.
Here's the App Store link: http://bit.ly/scopes-ios-app
Video showing lag is comparable or better than pana app
 
Scopes app + GH4 + SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x

 
Scopes app + G7 + Möller 2x
(G7 is not officially supported and needs you to start pana app first)

 
App Store link: http://bit.ly/scopes-ios-app

so what going on in there 
 

Very cool stuff, so you merged together a Canon EF 40mm STM and a Cinelux ES 2x and now you have a working FF autofocus setup?
How did you manage to align all of the elements so precisely, I'm guessing this is more involved than a it seems. Did you need any specialist gear or was it all done by hand?
Are you going to post instructions or a tear down so that others can try it out too?

Here is my sub $ 20,-- quick and very dirty push focus mod.
1. 60mm diameter 2mm thick 8cm long Aluminum Tube
2. Two step-up rings (49mm-52mm + 52mm-58mm) to hold the Front Lens.
Just jammed the Front-Lens inside the 49mm Ring with some Tape. (Maybe I will use Silicone to secure the Lens)
The 58mm End will hold the Lens-Assembly in Front of the Tube and is fixed there with Electrical Insulation Tape.
To slide and guide the Tube I taped some thin Packaging Foam around the Anamorphic Lens-Body.
 

My Antares finderscope clamp arrived today and it fits great:





Here I reversed the bracket, which puts the base at the end that joins the taking lens.  However, this makes the unit nose-heavy:


I think it's best to have it clamped the other way around as in the previous pictures - adding stability to the end that gets the most vibration/movement (from focusing).  The top screws can be used to help visually align the anamorphic, too.  As mentioned, I'll have have to do do some modding to flatten the rail base, but I am very encouraged by the results!  All in all, $37 well-spent, I think!
Cheers,
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BOLD, I really salute you on this project.  I've been sitting on mine for awhile.  It's the focus and the handling that's just killing me.  And it's harder now that there are other single focus options available.  I hope that you can make something that really works.  I'll definitely buy the adapter, especially if you can 3D print it.
Here are pics of how I have mine mounted.  It's so hacked I don't know what to say.  It's definitely not stable, and I have a hard time with the follow focus too.  But the images are great as are the amazing flares!
 

You can use those cheap parts to build your Cinelux support:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSLR-15mm-1-4-and-3-8-Thread-Tripod-Mount-Plate-Rail-Block-Rod-Clamp-5D2-5D3-/281667005669?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Mount-Ring-for-Canon-EF-100mm-f2-8-f-2-8Macro-/250827007518?
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Baseplate-Plate-Mount-For-Follow-Focus-15mm-Rods-Rail-Support-System-5D2-/171000567512?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOTGA-DP3000-Tripod-Mount-15mm-Rod-Support-Base-Plate-for-DSLR-Rig-Follow-Focus-/331020232705?
I used some of those in my experiments
 

The Panasonic G7 also has 4k Photo Mode which allows 4:3 @ 30 FPS. Don't know if you can change the framerate or record with sound.

My name is Andrew Kramar
I'm from Russia (Excuse me for my english)
I have an anamorphic projection lens - meopta anagon 2Ñ…, and I decided to remake it for my BMPCC))
 
original meopta anagon 2Ñ…

 
This video was filmed with the original projection lens+MIR1V on BMPCC
minimum focusing distance - 5 meters
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7XYXwSo4x4
 
I decided to disassemble the lens to bring together close to each other
 

 
And now the minimum focusing distance 30cm



 
Then I decided to make a new case for the lens as Folding Bellows))
 


 



 
 
Video with a modified lens
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0g7DEC76Ig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sc4AHSq8LFs
 
 
 

One of the o-rings arrived today.  I spent a couple hours cutting & sanding it down to fit in the helicoid.  The real trick was getting the the glass to align (relatively) parallel with the anamorphic lens.  I'll probably seek a more accurate solution but it was enough to do some tests.  Here is the helicod and the anamorphic, the anamorphic has some white pipe thread tape around it to help secure the helicoid reverse threads.

Helicoid attached, focus fully extended.

Helicoid fully retracted.

Helicoid with improvised (but extremely snug) rubber o-ring.

And a 58mm lens cap for good measure.

So I threw on my Helios 44 (not Helios 44-2) 58mm and did some quick & dirty video.  Here are a couple screenshots:

Initial thoughts:
Aspect ratio of 3.55:1 shows minor vignetting.  Crazy flare. I don't think I was quite able to hit infinity, but I think I can resolve that by adjusting distance between the elements by reseating the glass in the o-ring. I need to secure the helicoid to the anamorphic assembly, there was a small amount of play there when shifting focus. There was a lot of alignment shift going on.  The B&H will need to be locked down to a rig tightly to ensure the anamorphic remains aligned vertically. I still have a lot of work ahead to take this from work-in-progress to finished product, but so far the results are encouraging. Other miscellany:
A rig may not be small enough to be considered run-and-gun, but would still respectably light & portable. Plenty of Series 7 adapters available to marry most lenses to the B&H, I even picked up a 72mm to Series 7 for my Angenieux 12-120mm
Still need to test the 12-120mm on the B&H.  Not the ideal, as it will vignette, but it will do for the purposes of testing parfocal zooming. Once I come up with a more permanent configuration for everything, I'm going to affix a focus gear around the helicoid for follow focus. I'm going to wait until the permanent configuration is done before I start slapping wide angle attachments on it. Other reasons I chose the Raynox 0.66x over the Sony 0.7x wide angle is that it is not only smaller in size, but it also has a 72mm front filter thread. That's all I got for now.  More soon...
Cheers,
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