IronFilm

Red files need transcoding before you load them into Avid etc - this adds time and cost onto any job you do - worth remembering

Despite what has been said above(good points)...
I would still really consider the KineMINI... I know that there are plenty of people in the states that have one.
One thing about www.kinecommunity.com is that there are not that many members yet, and has only been started a few months ago. with more and more orders being fulfilled you will definitely see this grow.
I personally waited a few months to get mine, although I live in the middle east, I still got it, and am well pleased.
It's still a Chinese brand and is not without it's little quirks, but the image quality is exceptional, the Build is strong and robust and the company is always releasing new firmware updates that continue to utilize the sensor and beef up the camera.
The potential problems with the cameras listed above are:
BM cameras- still a newer company than even Kinefinity... has had many issued with vertical banding, sunspots and poor in camera management. you could always try the URSA which is really big and heavy if thats your thing...
Sony FS700- Awesome camera, but if you want to go all out, you really need an external recorder(for RAW) which will always add to bulkiness and $$$, as if the FS700 isn't big enough already.
Sony FS7- Also a great camera, but your still working with Sony's step my step upgrade system, which is kind of annoying, firstly you will still need an external recorder for RAW and they still don't have a firmware update for the true 4K yet.
 
I would look into Kinemini for a few great features like:
internal 4K RAW (DNG) recording
3:1 compression (KRW) format which means- in camera recoding that saves space( and then convert them to DNG's later or just compress them to CineForm RAW.
3K options including- RAW slow motion up to 60FPS (IN CAMERA) and 4:3 anamorphic options that are awesome!( if only I had some anamorphic lenses)
2K CineForm RAW-great codec where you can work with the live metadata and speed up your workflow while still having a ton of latitude with your grades.
KINEGRIP- this means that you can power the camera from a side grip (make sure to get the right batteries-makes a big difference - 30min vs60-90min) that essentially makes your camera way smaller, lighter and compact( I have done this recently being able to get into places that would usually not allow big cameras to film, and achieve RAW 4K on the run.
Great SLOW MOTION-up to 120FPS Cineform RGB 444 in high speed modes (I would make sure to have a diffusion filter to take care of any potential Moire or Aliasing-like most cameras, even the F5 and F55 have this problem in 2k if they haven't had switched out the thier 4K OLPF for the expensive 2K optimized one)
There are dozens more features like WIFI control and S16 modes and more that would take me forever to write in this, but still, if you are unsure of committing to company that is on the other side of the globe, I understand... I would probably stick with the FS700 or the FS7... other than that, I am testament to a happy user who is using his camera on a daily basis, and lovin it!
I personally ordered mine from hdvideoshop.com which is in Berlin, Germany... that might make you feel better that you have some accountability there(not being in China).
 
Hope that this helped
 
 

Of course is not using iOS, I meant iOS usability! Sorry  
My daughter operated an iPad when she was two years old...

Very comprehensive, professional overview of the Shogun (+ 4K sample clips on YouTube):
 

This'll sound snarky, but it's written with honest sincerity: Go ahead and place your order. What exactly are you waiting for? Are you scared to actually start making videos or something?

Again, not trying to be rude, just curious why you seem to be here asking for affirmation to spend your own money? I'm always curious about that.

The Gx7. If you already have the M43 glass, why not? It's under $500 in the u.s..

you should also really consider Samsung NX1
 
- great color
- 15fps 8k
- fantastic autofocus
- best slow mo next to fs700

(Almost) any camera!
 
5 years ago, there were very few excuses to just go and make it happen. Today, there are none. My own experiences let me recommend a Lumix as a first camera. Just because they teach you how to work manually, without being too complicated to handle (and lightweight as well, compared to DSLRs). Price-wise, quality-wise and with all your described expectations in mind, they probably offer the best compromise.
 
The said 5d Mark III with raw is definitely not the ideal beginner's choice, and without raw the quality is not worth mentioning anymore. 

Sure and while you're at it, drop some videos from a GH2 here as well.
Remember this post earlier this year? http://www.eoshd.com/2014/05/kendy-ty-t2i-one-guy-amazing-things-5-year-old-dslr/
Nobody says last generation cameras immediately suck as soon as something newer comes out. They've been used to great extent for a reason.
But does it really make sense to put your money down and get that kind of camera, when there's so much else out there that's affordable and has 2014-tech? Not so sure...

Why are you worried about Matching with ART lenses with anything else? You have so much different glass does it even matter? Do you plan to only use the ART glass with the new lenses you buy to match them and never use them with your other lenses?

To answer your question
 
>Zeiss Otus

Glad you got the FS7.
 
The more people keep buying the old 1080p stuff from Canon the more they are going to keep the 4K stuff in the vault and coast along. They can sell us a $5k 1080p camera and then also a $8k 4K camera at some point in 2015. Such profit. Please people stop buying dated equipment and reward the innovators like Sony...

I actually have on my desk right now - the FS7. I've not even turned it on yet but this thing is incredible. It's built like a rock and the grip is the best thing about it. Shooting a music video with a RAAAR RAAAR band on FS7 + a GH4 on a drone in a mental asylum with no roof tomorrow.
 
What was Shane on about again?  :P

It's really hard to take him seriously after what he said about 5D Mark II trashing GH4.

>Sponsored by Canon

Maybe a Sony A5100 and an E-mount to Nikon F speedbooster? The camera is really cheap, with a great 24MP APS-C sensor, XAVC-S codec for video, and the speedbooster would allow you to use those lovely legacy Nikkor lenses and get the full frame look. There is also a cheap but supposedly very good Commlite adpater for EOS glass in case you need to use stabilized lenses, and even some decent and affordable native Sony glass. Add a kinotehnik or zacuto loupe and you have quite a versatile camera for about 1000$.

Get a Panikonan :)

I couldn't agree more with what Ebrahim was saying about clients being visually illiterate..

Most my clients prefer the images I've shot with the GH3 than the RED Epic. Some of the work experience guys can't tell the difference.

Also, I've lost count the amount of times I've gone round to someone's house only to see they have True Motion or Smooth Motion switched on.

Recently one friend was watching The Walking Dead with True Motion on - it looked hideous, cheap and like a substandard soap opera shot interlaced on an old home movie camera. I switched it off, and BANG - it looked superb, cinematic, edgy ang gripping. All he said was "it looks blurry now." Don't you find this interesting?

Only thing I don't agree with Ebrahim on is to "use IS lenses. Period." IS lenses are expensive, electronic and clinical. Sure that's great if that's what you want - but when you can pick up a Helios 44 for literally nothing, the non-IS options have much more variation. Just make sure you have a steady shoulder, tripod or stabiliser :)

I only shoot "manual."

Being a good editor is what sets you apart.

Knowing how to work with clients, solve their problems, and answer their questions gets you hired again and again.

In my (admittedly low-end) world gear doesn't matter so much anymore. All IQ from modern cameras is good enough now.
 
EDIT:  It's just as important to know which clients you should stay away from.  Hard to explain that one.  You just kinda figure that out through wisdom.

I do think people get used to the Canon "look" - like someones taste in ketchup - everything else seems bad, but in reality it isnt, just different.

Why is it not for you?
 
What don't you like about it?
 
As you must know, it's superior to the 5D3 in nearly every way

Did you actually set out to write the snobbiest post ever or did it just sort of happen? because to do that by accident is quite an achievement.

Fuck trying to match an a7S and any Canon camera... Sounds awful.

Why stick with Canon at all? I mean, sure you have some gear already.. And they aren't exactly "bad" but there are so many better options right now.. Amd let's be honest, Canon aren't going to cannibalize their Cinema EOS line with a decent DSLR (or even mirrorless) any time soon.. It has never been part of the Canon philosophy.

My point is this.. It just seems silly to drop so much on a MkIII when both the GH4 and a7S are better and far cheaper....... You can also adapt your Canon glass to either of them if you wanted too.... Why not just get rid of the MkII and 7D buy a GH4 or a7S and adapt your Canon glass? You might even save some momey in the long run bh not having to drop so much on a MkIII that aren't even in the race any more.

Obviously try the GH4 and a7S before hand... Or wait for the a7S II or a9.. SONY release a new camera every month it seems.

Both companies also offer better firmware support/upgrades, Panasonic especially.

Perfection is the enemy of good enough. 

Get an A7s, D750, or D810. Buy some nikkor lenses. Shoot to your hearts content