Julian

The D7100 definitely beats the 7D in image quality. It's 4 year old tech against brand new. Both for photo and video.
 
The 5D Mark II is interesting if you are looking for that 'full frame' look. Put a 35mm f/1.4 on it and you'll get an image you won't ever get with a aps-c-camera like the D7100. I like the full frame look for photography, not fond of it for video because the extreme shallow dof is hard to manage with moving images and can be distracting.
 
You could look into the D5200 as well. Image quality on par with the D7100, still very good autofocus, but in a more consumer grade body. It does have a flip screen though and is cheaper.

For both photography and video? mostly the one or the other or 50/50?
Video quality of the GH3 and D7100 is much better than the NEX-7 so if you are serious about video i'd skip the NEX-7.
 
Best all-rounder with focus on video: I'd say GH3 (1080p60, swivel screen, EVF, mirrorless so you can adapt almost any (cheap) lens)
 
Best all-rounder 50/50 or focus on (pro) photography: D7100 (best photo quality, great autofocus for photography, very good video quality - better in low light than GH3. Downsides for video: no swivel screen, less lens choices, no 1080p60)

That second shot is awesome!

Panavision Superama
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190833251891
 
Singer (Sankor) 16-C
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221222234141
 
Singer (Sankor) 16-D
www.ebay.com/itm/200921339247
 
Delft Delrama Vistascope 8mm (overpriced)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251270005078
 
Kowa 8-Z
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261210342930
 
SUN
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151039010164
 
16mm Kinoscope
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200921406529
 
Isco Inflight 16/2x
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221222594809

Thanks for this, I used it on a simple project at the production company I worked for, one adjustment layer in Premiere CS6 and that was the grade done, aside from a few highlight tweaks!

Poor Andrew, he gets so much shite for being a Canon hater, when deep down he really wanted to love the 5D3 for video. He's going all out, trying to save the 5D line from the evil engineers at Canon.
 
It's like watching someone perform CPR even though they know the patient is already dead.

Thanks for the update Richard, i'll add the info to the topic start!
 
@Pulp Writer: good stuff to know. So the lens is fixed focus and focussed at a pretty far distance I suppose? Personally I wouldn't spend $200 for this kind of results.

That's very far from the current consensus.
 
1920x720 is under the date rate that a 1000x CF card can do, so should be possible. You can see my next blog post, there's a LOT of stuff in that. I won't reveal too much until that is online, but already the 1920x1285 14bit raw is very usable as a 30fps 1 second burst mode like the Nikon V1. Rendering my sample clips as we speak.
 
Bear in mind also that is still very early days with this. Lots of progress is in the pipeline just takes time.

Just found this green screen test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zr8rICBYII0

Looking forward to seeing your shots, Gábor. 
 
I've tried the Sun with my Helios 44. Images look pretty sharp to me when in focus. What do you think?
 
Here are some screenshots with the Helio 44M:


 

 

Yes, it has the screw but I still had to cut at the bottom - to release the rear optic from a glued in fitting - I did not want to force that free by hand, so I went medieval on it's ass. Can be rebuilt easily, but am finding it very practical to use in it's closer focus form.
 
@QuickHitRecord- sorry man, I did not mean to hijack your thread...it was your impressive footage that prompted me to dig out my iscomorphot and give it some use again...albeit with a 'chop shop' drink-inspired makeover :)
 
Ps- I picked mine up for £40 and the optics are not quite to the standard I would wish to sell on, as I think there are too many wiseguys selling overpriced and crusty damaged scopes as 'minty' on the bay already.

Angenieux 10mm f/1.8 Retrofocus
 
Julian already classified this as a Yes (with dark corners) and has a link to my image of it at f/1.8, but I would like to add a few words.
You can find a lot of these lenses on eBay these days, starting around $200. Is it worth consideration at all?
This is, as you know, a fixed focus lens which was a very popular lens for handheld camerawork on 8 and 16mm. You just set the aperture and ran with it.
The downside: it only works when you have enough light. Although this is a very fast lens with f/1.8, wide open practically EVERYTHING is out of focus, infinity starts getting sharp around f/4, and the foreground around f/8.
So here are some images at different apertures, just so that you get an idea what this lens is like:
(There will be slight dark corners up to f/4, but as you probably won’t be using it until f/8, you shouldn’t have any problems.)
 
f/1.8: Everything is out of focus.
The plant in the front is about 1m (3 feet) from the camera. f/2.8 is pretty much the same.
 
 
f/4: The background is reasonably sharp, but the foreground is still soft.
 
 
f/8: Now, this starts to look usable! The foreground is reasonably sharp now.
 
 
f/11: Not bad at all, please look at the full size image to form your own opinion. f/16 is pretty much the same as this. Is it sharp enough for you?
 

Sorry for the delay in replying.
Yes it is the same lens. It feels nice an solidly built. A handsome little little fellow dare I say.
However I think that most C-Mount to NEX adapters can accept lens diameters up to 44mm.
Some stepped C-Mount to MFT adapters can can except diameters that exceed 37mm but at that point the lens is held further away from the sensor and (in some lenses at least) the focus to infinity problem occurs. It's a shame because I was hoping that I could also use this lens with my V1 but that has a similar restriction due to to mount diameter. My initial thoughts are to fabricate a new back plate for the lens from an adapter plate. That would actually increase the available diameter as the support around the recess would then not be needed. All this is theory right now but I will keep you posted. It will be a while though as I'm very busy right now.

Made a topic about this a while ago, there are more options:
http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/1360-anamorphic-monitors-for-your-computer/
 
I think right now all the monitors use the same panel. Actually I have access to the Philips screen at work :)
 
Gonna resize some of my anamorphic creations to 2560 pixels to watch them on it and I'll show some pictures. I love the concept!

A modified battery grip could provide some space :)

Doesn't look bad at all, nice job!

Thanks, Julian.
I think the anamorphic lens is not properly aligned and the left side tends to be more blurred. Perhaps is the way to attach it to the primary lens (this Zeiss is a macro, and the filter thread are very far from the front len of this prime, maybe is one reason of this misalignment). I attach it with two very thin step down: a 49-39 and another 52-49. I must use tape to fix the anamorphic to the rings. I would like to buy a Redstan clamp and cross fingers that there is no internal problem with my Bolex.

This is a must read, if you haven't already...
 
http://davidbordwell.net/books/poetics_10cinemascope.pdf
 
He talks in detail about the compositions favored by the format.  

I made a short video this weekend with the SUN anamorphic + Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 55mm f/2.8 on the GH2.
 
https://vimeo.com/65033445

Just a test with one of my anamorphic lens (a beautiful Bolex Moller Anamorphot 16/32/1.5x). Andrew opened my mind reading his useful blog and shooter's guide, and now I love the anamorphics. I am learning, so I hope you understand my limitations in all the areas, included the video edition.
 
[attachment=477:435717753_295.jpg]
Shot on Canon 5D Mark II, the taken lens is a Zeiss C/Y 100mm Makro-Planar f2.8
 
http://vimeo.com/64893832

I could do, it works just like the Nikon V1 burst mode.
 
Just need to transfer Magic Lantern to one of my faster 1000x cards as only getting 15 frames per burst on the 600x card.
 
The End Trigger mode is interesting - this appears to capture endlessly until you let go of the shutter release, then it writes the last few frames to the card.
 
BTW - with getting 3592 x 1320 raw burst with a certain combination of settings - is this documented normal behaviour?

So I've had this lil' thing for a while, but didn't really use it yet. Decided to 'mount' it into a lenscap, that I put with a step up ring onto the new (smaller) Panasonic 14-42mm OIS lens (on the GH2). No vignetting from 35mm and upwards, but I was using it because of the OIS and autofocus, so I only have to guesstimate the distance on the anamorphic.
 
It was very windy and cold.. but this is definitely the 'fastest' way of getting an anamorphic shot with any of my lenses :)
 
http://vimeo.com/64987255
 
[URL=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/326-minimorphic1/][/URL]
[URL=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/327-minimorphic2/][/URL]

Kowa Prominar C-35 1.5x
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130898436960
 
Kowa Bell & Howell
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310660894630
 
Panasonic LA7200
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111062843105

very nice work what  a little gem..
 
seems very sharp,what what kind of stop did you have?
what is it like at f2.8 or 4.
with one nice test you probably upped the value by at least 300 euros :)