Jump to content

The FM lounge (Discussion of anything not related to FM price and discount)


Cosimo murgolo
 Share

Recommended Posts

For mirror-less cameras unfortunately...the flange focal distance on your (and my) 5DmkIII does not allow an internal ND setup like that. So the best solution would be to use a regular screw-on VND or fixed ND filter at the rear of the FM lens. When I am back home tomorrow I will post an image of the VND setup I constructed - it's pretty simple but it works well.

​Ok, what a shame, yes please, post some photos, that will be great, thanks again man!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Cosimo has a great idea of wrapping the uncovered section with plastic wrap before taping into the infinity position - this ensures the helicoid grease will remain contaminant free and enable the lens to be re-assembled if needs be without any ill effects from the disassembly and re-mounting process.

This video is meant as a visual guide only...do not attempt yourself if it looks too risky.

Edit: As I previously mentioned on the older FM thread, you can make your own version of the FM mounting tube for smaller anamorphics by getting some stock exhaust/ tailpipe tube in the correct diameter (all you need to do is cut it to length). These are made from stainless steel and have a thinner wall thickness than the FM aluminium version - allowing a bit more room inside for an anamorphic to fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321033449391?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

​Hans thank you for making this video!  OK I'm not so scared now.  I definitely understand how to do this.  Now I can take my Sankor apart hehe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

​Lovely as always Artiswar, how did you manage to use an Helios 44 58mm? 

I guess A7s  in APS-C mode. I love the colors and the dreamy look.

Thanks for sharing.

​The a7s has a digital zoom allowing me to shoot at a 1.2 crop which perfectly fits my 2.66 crop. Pretty much full frame. Some of the shots you can see the vignette of the anamorphic on the edges because these shots were actual full frame. 120fps stuff was APS-C. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

​The a7s has a digital zoom allowing me to shoot at a 1.2 crop which perfectly fits my 2.66 crop. Pretty much full frame. Some of the shots you can see the vignette of the anamorphic on the edges because these shots were actual full frame. 120fps stuff was APS-C. 

​Yes, sure, you've mentioned this before, it's a nice function, we have the same on ML 5D, but it's x3 crop, well actually a bit less than 3., I am going to try if it works with my Helios. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

​Yes, sure, you've mentioned this before, it's a nice function, we have the same on ML 5D, but it's x3 crop, well actually a bit less than 3., I am going to try if it works with my Helios. 

​Shot a short anamorphic on a 5D with ML a while back. Try selecting a smaller resolution until the vignette is outside of the recording area (4:3 makes this easier)

The the trade off in resolution might be worth the scope. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Häns, that sounds like a smart solution to use VND's, could you post a close-up shot of your filter setup?

​Ok, so this is what I've come up with so far using what bit's I had lying around. Basically this setup allows light-proof and hard linkage between the taking lens and the cinelux rear, yet allows free spinning of the VND in the middle section of the ring assembly.

To make it work you need to get a cheap double threaded CPL filter and remove the glass. This give you a rotating double threaded filter (in my example 72mm). The purpose of this empty spinning filter is so that the VND can spin freely when coupled together - without unscrewing itself from the other rings.

Then attach a double threaded VND filter (in my case 72mm Cokin 'Slim Pure Harmonie') to the empty CPL filter. The cokin VND has a front female thread of 77mm (other VND's may not have a front thread but this one does)

Attach that to a 77-72mm step down ring....Then screw into the FM cinelux 72mm rear thread adapter ring.

 

Once assembled and all rings tightened together properly - it gives a nice VND solution that is sandwiched between adapter rings. In my case I am using taking lenses with a 49mm front thread, but that step down from 72mm can be whatever is needed. The distance between taking lens optic and cinelux rear is just under 30mm - which does not seem to cause any vignette issues when shooting 85mm + with 4:3 ML raw on canon 5DmkIII.

It is a work in progress, but does allow your favorite taking lens to be 'hard' attached to the FM lens if you want. So the whole setup can be treated as if a monoblock design. The cool thing is the taking lens can twist into the lens mount as normal, as the linkage to the cinelux will allow rotation.

If I were to be using a non-cinelux type anamorphic inside the FM, I suspect a good solution would be to simply have a VND screwed onto the taking lens - with a rubber lens hood attached to the front thread of the VND. This would allow a bit of light-proofing of the join between taking lens and anamorphic rear, without hard linkage or screw fitting of any additional rings.

 

745A0950.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got mine.  Man this thing is huge and heavy.  HUGE!  The biggest problem I have is that the anamorphic is a stressed member.  The clamp they include has such a small footprint, and it's the only thing holding up everything.  With the rotating front section, it makes it very difficult to support it all.  And that rotating front section - damn the travel is so long.  Again, hard to put a lens support when it travels that much - maybe an inch and a half travel?  I got an Isco Bluestar so it works well, but I can't imagine putting in a Sankor or Kowa.  Now I understand why Cosimo had to drill the aluminum tube piece - otherwise I can't see how you'd secure the small size of the other anamorphics.  I'll be doing some measurements and seeing if I can get some support for the Kowa, but for now I'll be shooting with the Isco.  I might get a Schneider just to compare which is better.  I really wish they found a way to make the inner section longer so that you can use it as the stressed member, not the anamorphic.  Overall build quality is good, but the front cap doesn't fit well and I have to use gaffer tape to secure it.  For a first run I think this thing has a lot of potential.  Did I say it was HUGE?  LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

​Ok, so this is what I've come up with so far using what bit's I had lying around. Basically this setup allows light-proof and hard linkage between the taking lens and the cinelux rear, yet allows free spinning of the VND in the middle section of the ring assembly.

To make it work you need to get a cheap double threaded CPL filter and remove the glass. This give you a rotating double threaded filter (in my example 72mm). The purpose of this empty spinning filter is so that the VND can spin freely when coupled together - without unscrewing itself from the other rings.

Then attach a double threaded VND filter (in my case 72mm Cokin 'Slim Pure Harmonie') to the empty CPL filter. The cokin VND has a front female thread of 77mm (other VND's may not have a front thread but this one does)

Attach that to a 77-72mm step down ring....Then screw into the FM cinelux 72mm rear thread adapter ring.

 

Once assembled and all rings tightened together properly - it gives a nice VND solution that is sandwiched between adapter rings. In my case I am using taking lenses with a 49mm front thread, but that step down from 72mm can be whatever is needed. The distance between taking lens optic and cinelux rear is just under 30mm - which does not seem to cause any vignette issues when shooting 85mm + with 4:3 ML raw on canon 5DmkIII.

It is a work in progress, but does allow your favorite taking lens to be 'hard' attached to the FM lens if you want. So the whole setup can be treated as if a monoblock design. The cool thing is the taking lens can twist into the lens mount as normal, as the linkage to the cinelux will allow rotation.

If I were to be using a non-cinelux type anamorphic inside the FM, I suspect a good solution would be to simply have a VND screwed onto the taking lens - with a rubber lens hood attached to the front thread of the VND. This would allow a bit of light-proofing of the join between taking lens and anamorphic rear, without hard linkage or screw fitting of any additional rings.

 

745A0950.jpg

​Thanks Hans, I will have a close look at this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  Now I understand why Cosimo had to drill the aluminum tube piece - otherwise I can't see how you'd secure the small size of the other anamorphics.  I'll be doing some measurements and seeing if I can get some support for the Kowa, but for now I'll be shooting with the Isco.  I might get a Schneider just to compare which is better.  I really wish they found a way to make the inner section longer so that you can use it as the stressed member, not the anamorphic.  Overall build quality is good, but the front cap doesn't fit well and I have to use gaffer tape to secure it.  For a first run I think this thing has a lot of potential.  Did I say it was HUGE?  LOL

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice video Cosimo!  I know how to do it, just need to drill the aluminum piece and have a bunch of grub screws to hold the anamorphic.  I just wish it was already done.  I'm not great with power tools so this is going to be a challenge.  Thanks for all your advice; Hans too.  Just a little more hard work to make this worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been lurking on this thread and am fairly blown away by what you guys are up to here. We seem to be reaching this convergence point between home movies and classic hollywood imagery. These are hobby shots of girlfriends and kids, but they begin to have that heightened magic of cinema. Great stuff. Think I'll be taking the FM plunge soon myself! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Häns, that looks great, thanks for the explanation! I can't wait to try it.

​I also think rubber lens hood mounted to the front of a VND would be a good all round solution for the taking lens - as that would provide a seal against light entering the taking lens front and the anamorphic rear. The VND can be spun by twisting the rubber hood.

When I get my 77mm rubber lens hood - i'll test that and see if it is better than hard mounting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need help , if any of you have another way to locate Mindaugas . The problem is that my FM leads from the 18th sent but fails to Spain , is turning the world again and again. And from the 23 Mindaugas not answer my emails . Fedex does not give any solution.

 

​Excuse me Julio, I would like to help you out of this nightmare, I would like  to understand what is going on here, could you kindly explain why fedex doesn't give you a solution or a support? Please, could you kindly explain what action have you been taking with fedex? Maybe some of us can give you an advice or had the same experience and can help you out . Any of you on this forum?

You live in Spain right? How the hell your FM is going around the world , where is the mistake? 

Have you ever received any support from fedex?  And what did they say to you, How  they explained to you.

I mean you have the right to receive your package,  fedex is not doing this in the right way, right?  I guess they are responsible and they must respond and support you. It's absurd!!!!!

Please let me know more.

Looking forward to hear from you soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...