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The FM lounge (Discussion of anything not related to FM price and discount)


Cosimo murgolo
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​Looks amazing! I love it.  Might have to trade in the kowa for a hypergonar if i can't get it to fit and don't hack it up too bad.

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I've managed to fit the Sankor 16D inside the FM.

​This makes me happy and sad at the same time.  Nice that you made it fit.  But the work that went into it...damn.  I really hate taking apart lenses, and this looks like a nightmare for me.  Please post some tests.  I'd really like to see if it's worth hacking it to fit or just going the Isco/Schneider route.  BTW Cosimo thanks for all your hard work - deals and hacking!

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​This makes me happy and sad at the same time.  Nice that you made it fit.  But the work that went into it...damn.  I really hate taking apart lenses, and this looks like a nightmare for me.  Please post some tests.  I'd really like to see if it's worth hacking it to fit or just going the Isco/Schneider route.  BTW Cosimo thanks for all your hard work - deals and hacking!

​I am not an expert when it comes to taking lenses apart, it was a nightmare for me too, I took the risk.

 It took me 3 and half hours do the job,  with kids going around and my wife complaining:D, I was lucky to have the right pieces, 2 redstan clamps and some ingenuity, I had to drill some holes to the  metal tube that came with the FM, but now I can say it was worth it. I can also say that I thought it was going to be more difficult. I actually had difficulties to understand how to clamp it. I tried severals ways, finally a good idea came into my mind.

Another problem that I wasn't aware of was to keep the anamorphic to infinity, once I unscrewed the metal focus ring I thought it could stay  at infinity, it didn't, when I placed the sankor into the FM, the whole focus shifted, so, I had to find a way to keep the anamorphic at infinity. I managed to put tape between that space and it didn't shift anymore.

If you don't like to go through all this, just go the isco/Schneider route, both ways are worth it, believe me.

Thank you Nahua;)

 

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Yeah, this is unfortunate. They shouldn't have advertised it as compatible with Kowa/Sankor lenses. I was hoping to put it on my Kowa 16-H (8Z), as it is a very sharp and wide projection ANA, without the distortion that comes with the ISCO/Schneider "gold" style lenses. I may still if others confirm that it's possible (with modification), but for now, I'm going to sit this one out. The 16-H/8Z is the sweet-spot of anamorphics, other than the fact that it is double-focus. You can eek by with as wide as 50mm on full frame (if cropping to 2.35), and it has smooth blue flares. It can look crisp, clean, dirty, Hollywood or Russian depending on what taking lens you use. 

If someone proves that it's doable, I don't see why not. I mean, once you get a lens set inside the FM, there's no reason to remove it. But all this disassembly malarky is rather disappointing.

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Actually . . . Just measured the 16-H, and it's darn near 71mm. I'll try and get ahold of some digital calipers and check accurately. The grip on the focus ring and the very front part of the lens might be just a tad oversized, but both could probably be machined down a tad to within 71mm. 

Anyone with the FM Module, how tight is the 71mm? Is that exact?

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​I am not an expert when it comes to taking lenses apart, it was a nightmare for me too, I took the risk.

 It took me 3 and half hours do the job,  with kids going around and my wife complaining:D, I was lucky to have the right pieces, 2 redstan clamps and some ingenuity, I had to drill some holes to the  metal tube that came with the FM, but now I can say it was worth it. I can also say that I thought it was going to be more difficult. I actually had difficulties to understand how to clamp it. I tried severals ways, finally a good idea came into my mind.

Another problem that I wasn't aware of was to keep the anamorphic to infinity, once I unscrewed the metal focus ring I thought it could stay  at infinity, it didn't, when I placed the sankor into the FM, the whole focus shifted, so, I had to find a way to keep the anamorphic at infinity. I managed to put tape between that space and it didn't shift anymore.

If you don't like to go through all this, just go the isco/Schneider route, both ways are worth it, believe me.

Thank you Nahua;)

 

​You are one brave man!  I'd be shitting all over myself.  Yeah I'm going the Isco route unless someone can find another way to mount it.  I don't think I would be drilling holes into my new FM adapter.  I just can't be doing these kinds of modifications.  Damn!

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​You are one brave man!  I'd be shitting all over myself.  Yeah I'm going the Isco route unless someone can find another way to mount it.  I don't think I would be drilling holes into my new FM adapter.  I just can't be doing these kinds of modifications.  Damn!

​Nahua, I haven't drilled holes to the FM itself, but to the metal tube that came with the FM (see the attachment photo), I am sure if  I showed you a video tutorial you wouldn't be so scared

 At the end of the day only I did was taking the focus ring apart with a little screw driver like Hans said, the little screws came off easily, then you need to unscrew the 2 rings, once the rings were out  I decide to put a little plastic bag around the sankor, cos was quite greasy, I went with some tape around it to secure the plastic wouldn't move. Set the Sankor to infinity by pulling the top part that moves all the way up, stopped it with more tape and infinity was fixed.

After that half of the job is done, you have to find your way around it to clamp the sankor.  I was lucky to have the right stuff with me.

I used 2 redstan clamps , one actually is a filter clamp, ( see the 2nd photo)  I  put the sankor inside the FM, and from that I find my way to clamp it.

The end part of the sankor was sticking out, good, so I had room to work on it,  so I set the metal tube inside the sankor, then I took the black filter clamp and that went right around the metal tube, drew with a pen through the filter clamp's holes to be drilled into the metal tube,I took everything out , drilled the holes into the metal tube, I put back inside the FM, the black plastic screws now went right through the metal tube , they reached and stopped the sankor in the right position that was inside the metal tube. After that  the only part I had was just the end part of the sankor sticking out, so I took the other redstan clamp the red one and I attached it to the taking lens.

I hope this will help everyone with a Sankor, please forgive my english.

Schermata 2014-12-24 alle 08.28.45.png

IMG_2169.JPG

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Great job Cosimo!...that is the way to do it.

Before anyone attempts to go 'Dexter' on their lenses without knowing for sure what to do, please watch the video below. There should be NO reason to take a drill/ hacksaw or lathe to any lens!...the suggestion alone made me feel a bit unwell, so I made a short and basic video explaining how to remove the focus ring/cowl section to get the outside diameter reduced for the FM lens. (I know many here already know this...so bear with me).

This removal process will be quite universal to lenses of this type/size (kowa 8z/sankor/elmoscope etc) - I suspect that some variants will fit within 71mm diameter so if you have one of these there will not be an issue. This video shows a non-destructive disassembly method providing care is taken and the correct tools used. Being able to return the anamorphic to it's original condition is the goal here. 

Cosimo has a great idea of wrapping the uncovered section with plastic wrap before taping into the infinity position - this ensures the helicoid grease will remain contaminant free and enable the lens to be re-assembled if needs be without any ill effects from the disassembly and re-mounting process.

This video is meant as a visual guide only...do not attempt yourself if it looks too risky.

Edit: As I previously mentioned on the older FM thread, you can make your own version of the FM mounting tube for smaller anamorphics by getting some stock exhaust/ tailpipe tube in the correct diameter (all you need to do is cut it to length). These are made from stainless steel and have a thinner wall thickness than the FM aluminium version - allowing a bit more room inside for an anamorphic to fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321033449391?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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​You will need some sort of lens support bracket that clamps to the rails and screws into the 1/4 hole on the FM ring clamp.

I would highly recommend a support that clamps/ locks to both rails - as most quick release lens support brackets only lock to one rail and are not totally secure when holding the full weight of the FM lens.

After trying two different lens support brackets this is what I went for, as it enables height adjustment for different cameras, allows locking of the 1/4 screw pillar (many supports like this don't lock against twist) and it's made from a quality supplier: http://store.berkeysystem.com/lens-support/

there are cheaper alternatives out there that will do the job for sure...if the jag35 baseplate allows decent height adjustment, it will be fine to use a rail lens support that is at a fixed height. There are many rail/ lens support brackets out there...might be useful for others to share what works for them?

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Im asking Mindaugas for other solution to this......
My FM is starting the 3 round to the world!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Forgive my  stupid question, will this work to place a 72mm ND filter on the FM?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTUwMFgxNTAw/z/EF4AAOSwuMFUghm8/$_57.JPG

Not a stupid question, but that step ring would not be the best solution to mount a ND filter IMO (fixed or VND). This is because of the rotating focus design of the front glass - if a ND or CPL filter was attached to the front, the polarising effect would shift the reflection/ highlights whilst focusing. The best results seem to be from mounting filters at the rear of the FM lens and in front of the taking lens.

For example, I have a double threaded Cokin 72mm VND attached to the rear of the Cinelux ring adapter - then an empty 72mm CPL filter (with glass removed) - then a 72mm to 49mm step ring to taking lens. This setup allows a lightproof connection to the taking lens, but allows me to rotate the VND to effect exposure. The empty CPL filter allows the section to spin freely, without coming unscrewed from the neighbouring step rings.

A more simple solution would be to have the ND/VND or whatever filter you want to simply be mounted at the rear of the FM- and position the taking lens as closely as possible.

The only filter I have on the front of the FM lens is a 105mm UV filter - to protect the glass. You access the filter thread on the FM by unscrewing the front metal ring on the FM lens.

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For mirror-less cameras unfortunately...the flange focal distance on your (and my) 5DmkIII does not allow an internal ND setup like that. So the best solution would be to use a regular screw-on VND or fixed ND filter at the rear of the FM lens. When I am back home tomorrow I will post an image of the VND setup I constructed - it's pretty simple but it works well.

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