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GX80/GX85 settings


Raafi Rivero
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On 30/09/2016 at 7:28 PM, mercer said:

Honestly, I get the best, quickest results using FilmConvert with the Panasonic cameras. With my settings, I usually only need a slight adjustment to the lows, mids and highs and if anything I lower the saturation... But again I find the saturation to be an unwieldy bitch with these cams. For the muted look I ultimately want, I could probably get by with a -4 saturation in camera.

What settings do you use in FilmConvert to 'tame ' the Panny look?

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27 minutes ago, Thpriest said:

What settings do you use in FilmConvert to 'tame ' the Panny look?

Oh I don't know. I think I was using Portra or Velvia. I just found for me, FilmConvert to be the easiest way to nice color with these consumer 8 bit footage... Or any footage really. But your mileage may vary. 

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After more testing, I can't really see any significant difference between Natural -5 -5 -5 -4 and Natural -0 -5 -5 -4 with Highlights / Shadows -3 / +3. I'm not even sure that the H / S settings actually change the clipping points (I believe they don't). It occurs to me that they only affect the way values roll off towards those points rather than the points themselves. I may be wrong. Whatever I do, the camera seems to insist on giving me pretty well crushed blacks. 

Sorry not to post actual footage. Most of my tests are simply pointing the camera at difficult lighting ratios while out and about or filming family and friends in a private context.

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2 hours ago, DPC said:

After more testing, I can't really see any significant difference between Natural -5 -5 -5 -4 and Natural -0 -5 -5 -4 with Highlights / Shadows -3 / +3. I'm not even sure that the H / S settings actually change the clipping points (I believe they don't). It occurs to me that they only affect the way values roll off towards those points rather than the points themselves. I may be wrong. Whatever I do, the camera seems to insist on giving me pretty well crushed blacks. 

Sorry not to post actual footage. Most of my tests are simply pointing the camera at difficult lighting ratios while out and about or filming family and friends in a private context.

Contrast -5 seems to be the same as H/S -3+3. Have you tried just raising the shadows (+5) and leaving the highlights at 0? 

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I have been looking into the highlights / shadows settings and testing with 0/0, -3/+3, -5/+3.

If you’re shooting in a high contrast scenario it can help against clipped highlights to shoot -3/+3, 5/+5 etc. But by doing so this setting also affects saturation so keep that in mind. 

Shooting -5/+5 increases the saturation the most so to match the other shots I had to add a little more saturation in the -3/+3 shot and even more in the 0/0 shot.

0/0 Raised the highs and mids a little, and lowered the shadows a tiny bit. Added a little saturation.

-3/+3 Raised the highs and lowered the mids a little, and lowered the shadows a tiny bit. Added half the saturation as 0/0.

-5/+5 Raised the highs the most and lowered the mids and shadows a little. No saturation needed.

In the end I could get the same result on all three settings but I think I will be using -3/+3 or -5/+5 with standard 0, -5, -5, 0 as I feel they gave a better starting point for a quick color correction and grade.

Any thoughts?

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Here are a couple raw shots from my trip/shoot. It's tough to tell how much the settings are doing because it's been very overcast both days I've been here, but the settings I decided on are: contrast: -5, Sharpness: -2, NR: -5, Saturation: -5. The  second shot shows how much contrast the camera is capable of. IBIS looks nice on both (lens is manual with no stabilization):

 

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