MrSMW

This plus the AF is faster with the native lens and I need to rely on it quite a bit when shooting video and stills at the same time. Two different cameras obviously, but at the same time. The Sigma 'wins' in only one area and that is f1.8 between it's 18-35mm zoom range, ie, can shoot a shallower depth of field than the Fuji or in lower light without having to increase the ISO as much, ie, there is a compromise either way. Because the combo of XT3 and Sigma has no form of stabilisation, I work off a freestanding Sirui monopod and unless perfectly balanced on a flat surface, it's too top heavy. If I wanted to slow my pace down considerably...and I shoot weddings so I do not, then on a tripod, no problem, but it's a much slower way to shoot. Too slow for me.

Another XT3 user and vote here. Originally with the Fringer Pro adapter and Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 but swapped back to the 18-55 f2.8-4 (plus some Canon f1.8 primes) which is a compromise on being able to capture a very shallow DOF (unless using the primes), but a winner everywhere else. Also dumped HLG which I dumped Flog for because when trying to grade with DJI products (Pocket, Action and Mavic Air), it's all been a pain in the derriere so shooting tweaked Eterna again. Happier.

I use a freestanding mono for speed most of the time but for longer stuff (ceremonies & speeches) break out the tripod. The mono of course has that advantage of just the one leg to height adjust! The only issue I had this last weekend with my current set up however is that it was too top heavy for the mono, so for next weekend I have ditched: The 5" monitor and it's clamp. The Anker battery pack and it's clamp. The Sigma 18-35 f1.8 and swapping it out for Fujis 18-55 f2.8-4 (so sacrificing shallow DOF for OIS and size/weight). Much better handling!

Also have both. For me, it comes down to IBIS vs better AF. One has it, the other doesn't but is better at it. My 'solution' to how I shoot (photo & stills) is the XH1 gets the stills role with primes and the XT3 the video role with choice of 2 primes on monopod or zoom with OIS if handheld. So IMO, both are great, but neither the complete unit.

Great for; commercial, architectural and landscape photographers. OK for portrait/studio photographers but how many pixies do you actually need before it's too sharp? Not for; social, wedding or street shooters. Unless they have massive storage facilities, deep pockets/no family and are slightly unhinged. I'm hoping for an XH2 (XH1 with XT3 processor & sensor) and take 3 to replace my; XH1, XT3, X100F. Thanks. Fantastic for it's market though.

Enjoyed that Mr Phoenix. Wasn't quite sure what it was about but I liked the production!

Also C, none of the above. Last time I checked , it was 2019.

Sorry, on my phone and not posted pics here before but here you go. Right, on my PC now so I can add a few extra bits... So the Nikon filter, HN something... I have 'glued' using Gorillaweld 'metal glue' to the variable ND which is screwed in as normal to the front of the lens, ie, is detachable. I have also marked up the hood with the min (single white line) and max (double white line) points of the ND and added arrows just in case the brain is not working and because the actual arrow for the ND filter is on the underside which obviously doesn't work. So now, in low light, the ND/hood can stay in my bag but in bright light/outdoors, I can simply screw the combo in and et voila as they say here in France. Trying to create something similar for my Canon 50mm f1.8 which although it does have a front thread, I can't get any variable ND to fit so still working on that one. Fringer Pro adapter not shown as that lives on the XT3 which currently has the Canon attached.

I don't know about a drop in filter, but with my XT3/Fringer/Sigma 18-35 combo, I use a variable ND and have (metal) glued a short Nikon lens hood (approx 1.5cm or 3/4 of an inch deep) to the ND so I can rotate the hood & ND as a single unit and have marked up with white paint the min and max points of the ND on the hood. Also, if the light is low, I can unscrew the hood/ND combo as a single unit. I haven't managed to find a similar solution for my Canon 50mm f1.8 however...

In short: A: They are all actually great at something B: But none of them great at everything And the answer is there never will be because in the near future someone will be criticizing the crop on the 12k 120p or the fact that Camera X only has 17 stops of IBIS compared with Camera Y. Etc. Or just go out and use what is currently best for you and enjoy it. Which everyone knows is the Fuji XT3. Despite no IBIS. And it’s not FF. But APART from that... ?

I was at least interested in the S1 and indeed Z6, but in the end decided the best option for me was still the XT3 I bought last Sep. The S1 specifically, for me the issues were; size & weight, lack of fast AF lenses at this time, price and the AF itself. The Z6 stacked up better everywhere pretty much, but lacked the 4k 60 I use so...

Cool, I think I will upgrade to one of those @androidlad as it's a more elegant solution. The Swit, that's powered directly from the camera then? That would also cut down on a bit of weight (if the Swit with I presume internal battery is lighter than the Feelworld with external) and make for zero battery swaps on a full day shoot. Which would be great as one less thing to consider etc. OK, external battery or direct charge from external battery pack. Research + coffee ? Not sure it's worth a +200 upgrade at this time but a potential option there. Just bought a pair of Rode Wireless GO's and another OSMO Pocket so funds tight right now...

The following may be of use to some and is as follows... I purchased an Anker PowerCore+ 26800 PD which I have attached to the XT3 via a smallrig clamp and cage plus using a Rode mini and a Feelworld monitor all sitting on a Sirui frestanding monopod. Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 or Canon 50mm f1.8 via Fringer Pro for lenses. The Rode mini will be replaced for the new Rode Wireless Go as soon as in stock as that seems like a no-brainer to me, but I digress... Anyway, ran a power consumption test today ahead of my up and coming wedding season and after 4.5 hours continual running time (but not actually recording), can report the internal battery was indicating it still had 80% charge and the battery pack also 80% charge. I'd expect this to be higher if actually recording and the body possibly slightly warmer than it's slightly warm state, but bodes well. Pity I can't also charge the monitor, but it's actually fairly low consumption and I have 5 batteries for it anyway.

Which comes first (next), Planet of the Apes, or Terminator?

We will all be long dead before AI robots and cameras can replace a human being for something like a wedding. Anyone who thinks weddings are all the same has not been to enough weddings and doesn't do this for a living. If you think you can phone it in remotely, you are having a laugh. And I'm not just saying that because I am a wedding photographer but because I understand it's the human element that gets the results. Take out the human and what have you got? Not the results, that is for sure.

I agree with Novim. I cut so many short very quickly as they are either rambling and never getting to the point...if they even have one in the first place and as for the skateboards and one wheels or doing all your vids from your car seat like you are always going somewhere....

Actually, you don't even need to go to South Korea. In the UK (so presume quite similar in many other European countries?), go to any big town hall/registry office on a Saturday and there will be a wedding per hour quite easily. Back in the day when I used to do such jobs, it would not be unusual to turn up and find; a wedding happening, one more waiting to happen, your crowd turning up plus guests for the next one, several wedding cars belonging to various weddings and no one having much clue which wedding is which! I was trying to photograph guests and having to ask them which wedding they belonged to etc. A couple of jobs like that almost made me turn my back on weddings...but didn't, - I just stopped taking those kinds of jobs.

As above. We are not talking 1990's volume zoom's here, - no one will hear any Fuji lens focusing! Camera clicks, yes and that's why I only use XH1 and X100f now for stills (and XT3 for video). Off camera audio every time.

I have just bought a Canon 50mm f1.8 lens to use on my XT3 with Fringer adapter. Works really nicely as I expected it would as I already have a Sigma (Canon fit) and that works well. I have put a Tiffen variable ND size 58mm on it so I can use wider apertures in bright sunlight, but need a lens hood. Not sure if that is a screw in filter thread on the front or just some kind of ribbing that looks like a filter thread?! (my eyes are not what they once were that close up). I tried a 62mm thread lens hood, but that was not big enough so if that is a screw in thread, it's slightly bigger. Pinged a message to Tiffen but in the mean time, might a rubber lens hood that stretches over the filter do the trick? I have a slim metal Nikon lens hood 'welded' (metal paste) onto the variable ND (Gobe) on the Sigma and marked up where it works and directional arrows in white permanent marker and that does the job. Hoping to do something similar with this Tiffen. If anyone has any experience or knowledge, I'd appreciate it. Cheers.

Yep, sort of... The older lenses got a boost by virtue of being on the more recent bodies, but the newer lenses generally perform better regardless, especially those f2's.

As a long term Fuji user, I'd say the opposite actually and the newer lenses work better, - faster, more accurate and quieter. The f2's especially.

Viltrox EF-FX2? Retains AF and speedbooster. I use the Fringer Pro myself to adapt Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 and Canon EF 50mm f1.8 but would look at this Viltrox as an option.

Personally I define 'professional' as in, 'sole or greater source of income', ie, nothing to do with quality of output or level of service. A good amateur will generally always 'beat' a poor professional. I have been watching a few lighting videos on the Tube recently and they are all over the place. There are some lesser known people producing some really nice stuff and then there are some labeled 'Masters of Light' demonstrating some simply hideous results. The latter may be professionals in respect of earning a living, but amateurish in regard to results! I don't think there is anything wrong with charging low to get a foot in the door, - we all had to start somewhere and all did it. I have no issue either with quoting low for an out of season job, mid-week or short notice when the difference is some welcome extra income vs nothing but retaining a pretentious elitist attitude. Nope, I will sometimes look at a job and say, "you know what, it's lower than I'd normally take, but in return for a few days work, I could buy that new expensive lens, a new mountain bike, take the family away for a week".

Should do Daniel. Last year with the XH1, I needed to give it the occasional manual nudge, but it was pretty decent. I try and shoot it manual focus as much as I can, but as a one man band hybrid photographer/videographer, I sometimes need to do both at the same time such as entrances and exits so have to rely on the AF. There has been a firmware update I think since Oct last year for the Fringer and that new one is coming for the XT3. I just need my season to get under way ASAP because no amount of practicing etc can replace actual in the field working conditions unless they are replicated completely!