TSV

​Thanks! I placed an order on this model yesterday in fact... The lilliput monitor I wanted was WAY to expensive in Japan...

It seems that my Kenko PRO ND is making things worse... Look at the screenshot below of a picture I just took. With ND Without ND

​I checked iDynamic and if I am correct it is disabled by default when in Manual Mode. At least on my Japanese GH4 it is the case. I am not 100% sure since the menu is in Japanese and the setting between iD Resolution (Off) and Master Pedestal is set to OFF (I cannot read the Kanji :(. Maybe, but I am really disappointed by Panasonic 35-100, the 12-35 is fantastic but the 35-100 come with this GRAIN or NOISE on pretty much everything ranging from Photo to Video...​

​Hi, Yes ungraded from CineV (I am not really good at grading things so, I try to keep it safe). And nope, I export in UHD (1080p is so 1999 ;-) ). Thanks for tips, I will give it some try on none important project to see if I can manage in post. Again Post is the weakest link here for me, I really need to take some color grading lessons. As for Neat, I have Neat 3, I will give it a try, but if I do that everywhere I may loose the sharpness of shooting in 4K and Neat 3 is not that fast... But again if this is the GH4 basic behaviour I have to learn to live with it or... Start learning how to color grade.

Hi everyone. What call noise could also be "grain" not sure what term should I use, however I do not like them and need your help to make sure I am doing it right next time. Here you are an example (70Mb 4K file) https://mega.co.nz/#!O5MBRaSI!ATxnj0fkwKJzlUw4r8bw8UhlX-KTmprP1fHclOgcn-c This was taken with my GH4, ISO200, the Lumix 35-100mm (I was at 100mm) with a ND16 filter, Shutter speed at 60 and not sure what aperture I was using. I understand that in the dark areas there will be noise. But I do not understand (or like) to see grain or noise in the red part of the pagoda which is under the sun... There should not be grain there normally right? So what I am doing wrong and how to fix it. Thanks

​I am chatting with the Support of Must HD for the 5.6" and here you are their answer (Granted this is not the MustHD M-701, but it should be the same) : MustHDHello, how may I help you? ClientQuick question, regarding the 5.6 IPS When using in on my GH4, can I still record in 4K internally? On the SD card of the GH4? MustHDSorry, it can not support GH4 4K. ClientI know the screen will not support 4K, but it is just a screen. What I meant is: Can I use the screen like my Camera Viewfinder and still record IN the camera in 4K? (I Want to make sure we both understand each other) MustHDYes, I understand. It can support GH4 3840×2160 30P and 1920×1080 96P, but not GH4 4K 24P. ClientSorry! Yes and when I meant 4K I was talking about UHD 3840×2160 30P . So to confirm. I can use this monitor, use 3840×2160 30P internal recording? Right? MustHDThat is right.

​While I would agree with this statement on the Battery that was provided with my Camera (GH4) the spare ones that I bought from Panasonic does not however last as long (as the one provided with the GH4)... Maybe both spare battery that I bought from Amazon Japan were "old". Now before you jump on this, nope these spare ones where not knock-off and genuine Pana ones.

Well done!

​Thanks. I will most probably get this little Screen it is even cheaper than the 5.6" MustHD. I will let you know! PS. Guys, thank you so much for your patience and taking time to answer my questions.

​Thanks! However I am a bit confused with their website, they announce 1024x600 on the first page but 1280x800 on the spec page... Your pamphlet also show 1280x800... Will contact them and see.

​Try Mega.nz. I am very happy with it and it gives you 50GB of space for free.

​Me, again ;-)... I am thinking of getting this model http://www.musthd.com/products/7-inch-musthd-1280800-video-assist-field-monitor-with-hdmi-input-output-focus-assist-false-color-77.html any thoughts?

​Thanks for subscribing! Thank you for the suggestion, I am planning to put more movement with a slider soon, but the concept is : Contemplative videos : Static. But I am learning and little by little I will improve things. Yes in the Sakura video I was at F1.7 most of the time.

​Thanks, I will look into this an will let you know guys if I need guidance! Again, thank you everyone for your kind help.

Why I like the 4.6 of the Ursa Mini is the capacity to blow a picture. Sometimes I believe that I am levelled but I am not and when shooting a building for example you can clearly see that I screw-up something. on FCPx I can rotate the picture but I also need to zoom in to avoid some weird pictures. The simple fact of zooming up to 103% reduce the sharpness of the picture. With 4.6 I will be able to rotate and crop the video without loosing the 4K quality. I like the idea of having a RJ Lens Turbo or Metabones with the Sigma, but loosing the AF scares me a little. Any advise on how to overcome this fear?

Thanks everyone. I will follow your guidance here and skeep the Atomos but will head for a good external monitor, any advises?

​Thanks, I am glad you like this example. Yes this was taken during "Sakura" the cherry blossom period in Tokyo. And until you find time to visit Japan/Tokyo, have a look at what I upload. Also be sure to let me know if one of my video sucks, I am hear to learn. Cheers

Thanks everyone. I am confortable with the notion behind raw and bit depth, but I admit that I am still a bit behind when it comes Zebra and so on... I need to learn. I am asking these questions simply because I am wondering is I should upgrade or not toward a more powerful system (URSA Mini 4.6). Granted I am a newbie and something like the URSA mini is like to cast pearls before swine (hope this is the correct expression, I also found : to feeding a donkey strawberries), but if you start adding the Atomos, the cage and all the other goodies why not moving to USRA? Could you please extrapolate further on this? Always, thank you for your help everyone.

I am back with questions As for today I am shooting on SDXC cards on my GH4, but I see many people using a Shogun alongside their GH4, there must be a reason for it, what are they? How owing one will improve my work? Cheers

Just to help you in your choice (To get the 15mm or not) here you are video I shoot at ISO800 and Shutter speed at either 30 or 60 at night. I am personally satisfied with the output, then again, I am not a pro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeWsBXrrhGM Personally I am only using this lens for low light... for other shots I am going with the 12-35mm. Good luck

​Thanks!

Thank you every one!!! And thanks @Damphousse for the video I will check this now.

​Thanks! Any ideas on brand and model another CPL? As for the WB I tried but I was not successful, ok I was in rush that day, I will give it another try and see. Thanks! ISO 400 is acceptable indeed, and I have room between 200 and 400 on the GH4... I really play with ISO as a last resort kind of thing...

Hi everyone, me again. I have another question for you guys... I need your advice to better improve my videos. I have this rule of thumb on my GH4 F 4.5 (The sharpest aperture on the Lumix X12-35), Shutter Speed 60 and ISO 200. With these settings I have, normally, the best result when shooting 4k at 29.97. Now, unfortunately when shooting outside it is really difficult to stick to these settings so I bought a pair of ND Filters from Kenko ND4/8/16 and a Zeta EX PL polarized. So here you are my questions. Is my rule of thumb above good? I am playing depending of the lighting between the aperture 2.8 and 8 (After 8 there is too much diffraction to be used in 4K).Is using an ND Filter the good solution when there is too much sun? Any other advise?When there are no fast moving elements I tweak the shutter speed down to 30 or up to 500 (or more), is this advised?Everything that I have read/watched on taking video with shutter speed is to go 180deg, when you shoot at 30p set your shutter speed at 60, but will setting around 120 or 240 will offer the same result?Finally, I like the polarized filter, BUT it give a brownish look to my shoots, how can I overcome this on the camera? is Post prod the only way? Is there some kind of magic trick or filter I should use on FCPx?Again, sorry for my questions, I am just looking for a way to improve my videos and become one day as good as you guys. Cheers

​Thanks for your feedback (same applies to Celi)... I have now a better ideas of what I will do when it is going to rain... Now, unlike you guys I am not a pro and a bit shameful of my videos some how .Each time I am taking them making the final product I am pleased but after a while I am ashamed of how bas they are, so please be kind and here you are my project TSV