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mercer

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Posts posted by mercer

  1. @Jonstaf

     

    Your EOSM is a great camera, and you can significantly extend its capabilities by loading Tragic Lantern onto it.

     

    I use TL on my EOSM to boost the bit rate and to shoot all "I" frames with H264.  Here is an extreme test I did with the EOSM, TL and, mostly, the quirky Fujian 35mm f1.7 CCTV lens.  Although I pushed the EOSM past it's DR limits (obvious FPN and just plain old noise), note that there is significantly reduced compression artifacting.

     

    Also, the strange focal plane of that c-mount Fujian 35mm really "pops" with an APS-C camera, such as the EOSM.  Here is a better example of the Fujian's wonkiness on an EOSM (shot by maxotics).

     

    Other great things about the EOSM line, is that there is a focal reducer for it that gives almost a 1:1 crop factor (in addition to extra brightness) and that there are tilt and tilt-shift adapters for it, if one desires interesting focus effects or if one merely wants to Scheimpflug.  Of course, with the shallow flange-focal distance of the EF-M mount, there are zillions of lenses that can be adapted to the EOSM.

     

    To me, it is sometimes more valuable than 4K and high dynamic range to have the TL build combined with the ability to use these special attachments and a huge variety of lenses.

     

    How stable is Tragic Lantern? I've been tempted to load it on my eos-m but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

    Also, I saw the speed booster for Nikon lenses, but that is all. Do you know if they make them for any other mounts?

  2. Hi Tupp

    That's a beautiful video. The only thing that interests me is the beauty of the footage I can get. I think the Panasonic is truly impressive, but the EOS M is a fantastic tool in its own way. From what I've seen the Fujian lens is also great when you play to its strengths.

    I don't regard 4K as particularly important in my own work at this stage, but flexibility is a different matter. In order to be able to use old C-Mount lenses that will only cover a tiny sensor, I bought a GoPro 4 with the intention of doing the Backbone mod, so 4K might be a factor then, as it can be turned into lovely 1080p footage -the trade-off is the the ProTune settings are still pretty inflexible.

    Another great thing about the Canon is that I can shoot long scenes without it overheating, which is very important for the type of filming that interests me.

    My main cam is the eos-m as well. I just love that damn little camera. I have been using it with a set of Minolta MC lenses, lately, and the images I've been getting are just incredible.

    The funny thing is, I have been looking at the gopro with the ribcage mod as well. I have a bunch of c-mounts I use with a Pentax Q7, for fun mostly, and they may pair well with that mod. 

  3. The best skill is learning how to learn ;).

    In first time testing, Hitfilm was much easier to figure out vs. AE and more importantly, much faster. Because AE is so slow and archaic, I only use it as a last resort. AE is long overdue for a rewrite and GPU update. PPro can already use many AE plugins- hopefully Adobe will roll AE functionality into PPro soon.

    I have Hitfilm2 express, or whatever free version they gave out a little over a year ago. I never really messed with it, but the interface looked promising. Of course, I know very little about color correcting/grading... Maybe I'll have to give it another look. It's on my old computer though, I wonder how many licenses you get with that free deal. Anyway, thanks for the tip. 

  4. No, you will never perfect every discipline required to make a film. That's why there' same giant crew list at the end of every film. That's why people specialise. 

    Do you do the best with what you have or do you look to employ other people as the creative HODs to work with you in order to deliver your vision on screen..?

    I am a no budget filmmaker... So essentially I am a one man band. I do the best with what I have, but unfortunately I can't know everything.

    Does that mean I shouldn't bother because I don't do real color grading, or don't have access to an on set sound guy? No, I don't think so... I make adjustments and cut corners, but still attempt to put out the best product I can.

    For some reason a reply I made earlier gave other members, or a moderator, the impression that I was whining and expecting a different standard. That is not what I wrote, nor what I meant. 

  5. Exactly, it's this weird entitlement that I can't figure out. It's like someone is holding a gun to his head to produce Hollywood visuals and he complains how hard it is...as if respect and glory are some human rights being denied to him and should be given automatically instead of being earned with years of hard work. Bizarre. :)

    Its simple...if you don't have skills...if you don't want to have the skills...and if you don't want to get someone on your team who has the skills...then don't worry about expectations, I doubt anyone will expect much from you.

    I swear it is like you don't know how to read. If you did, you would understand my original point was against your elitist comment regarding... real color grading.

    But the fact is... no matter how hard you try, no matter how much money you spend on equipment, you are not going to perfect every discipline required to make a feature film, so you do the best with what you have.  If that means using those lowly LUTS then you use them.

    It doesn't matter anyway, story is king and all the surgical color grading in the world won't fix a bad story or a poorly directed film. 

  6. Not to mention... What does, "consider yourself a pro..." mean? Seriously, I can consider myself a pro all I want but until I get paid as a narrative filmmaker, I am not a pro... I am an amateur. I can shoot the occasional wedding video and be a paid videographer but that doesn't mke me a professional filmmaker. 

  7. If you do not consider yourself a pro, noone is expecting anything from you. A pro can work in an indie or corporate environment, and will get the job done no matter what tools he/she works with. And if you can't scale up your skills then get someone to help you. Noone owes you anything, man, seriously. :)

    I had to like this comment because I have no idea what you're talking about? I never said anyone owes me anything, nor did I ask for anything. I was merely explaining my opinion on some notion that an indie filmmaker, specifically no/low budget, must wear the hat of producer, director, cinematographer, screenwriter, editor, colorist, art director, actor, sound designer, grip, gaffer, food services, etc. To think you can master every aspect of this collaborative media is insane, yet no/low budget filmmakers are held up to the same standards as big budget productions and the professional craftsmen that produce those films. The idea is unfair to the indie filmmaker and it is offensive to the professional craftsmen that spent years honing their craft.

  8. Grading is far more complex than color adjustment or color matching that people do with LUTs, it is primarily working with tracking masks and creating hierarchies within the shot that guide the eye. Premiere and even AE don't have the tools to do such real-time adjustments and tracking. LUTs are basically like instagram filters, they're just there to give the overall image a punch. They are like a sledgehammer while grading is like surgery.

    I think here in lies the problem. As no/low budget filmmakers we are forced to wear a lot of hats.

    It requires a jack of all trades mentality.

    The professionals spend years honing their craft, in their respective fields, and we're expected to have the same level of quality?

    It doesn't make sense.

    I'm not a colorist. I don't want to be a colorist. I just want my footage to match and have a filmic look. I have recently started working with color correcting and it is like a goddamn mystery.

    I'm not trying to code a video game.

    I just want my highlights and lowlights to match, from shot to shot, and then... maybe give the footage an overall look... Depending on the project.

    So, I like these consumer based products. iMovie is s fantastic little program, for what it is. FCX is an amazing step up. Now if somebody would make the iMovie of Resolve, then I'd be happy. 

  9. No I buy many of them in something that would go on EF and cover a Fullframe just for future proofing. 

    Also it's nice to put an ef adapter on the Bolex or NX1 to get a positive lock. And of course I can then use a bmpcc speedbooster if I buy the MFT mount.

    But the 10mm and 16mm are C-mount. 

    I already have a Zeiss 28mm and 35mm so the only one left before I would consider the Jena collection complete is a 20mm. But I might skip it and get the Fujinon 25/0.85.

    Best part is that so far I haven't even spent $350 for 5 nice Zeiss Primes, got to love ebay :)

     

    Oh okay. I picked up the 50mm 2.8 a couple weeks ago after watching your 35mm Flektogon video and then, even though it was a budgetary stretch, I got a good deal on the 35mm too.

    Great lenses.

    The 50mm, I bought, has an aperture issue though... It works fine until I put it on an adapter and then it doesn't want to open. I figured the pin wasn't engaged, but my adapter is hitting it. I never really took a lens apart, but I figured I'd have a go of it, and maybe declick it while I'm in there. My 35mm is declicked, so I might as well have them match.

    Do your lenses have similar iq's? I mean, does the c-mount Zeiss's iq blend well with the M42 versions?

    Which 28mm do you have? I also saw they have a 29mm, I assume it is identical to the Pentacon 29mm.

    I want a 20mm as well, but they are pricey... That lens would probably double the price of your Zeiss collection. 

  10. Just picked up a Cosmicar 75mm 1.9 c-mount. I have heard some good things about the lens, has anybody ever used the lens?

    I have the 12.5mm 1.9 and the 25.5mm 1.9 and they are both excellent. Right now I use them with my Pentax Q7 but I hope to have a BMPCC to use them on. 

  11. Hi guys!

    Just want to say what a great resource you all have been since I've owned my GH3. The lens that I bought when I purchased the camera was the Panasonic 25mm 1.4, and I've loved the lens. I've gotten a ton of use out of it. It sure was pricey, though.

    Since then, I've wanted to increase my lens repertoire. About a month ago, I rented a couple of m43 lenses from borrowlenses.com; the olympus 45 and the 85mm. I LOVED the 45mm. It was beautiful, and I definitely considered purchasing it, but now I'm second guessing myself.

    I am wondering if I might be better off purchasing a Speedbooster, either for an FD or Nikon mount. My reasoning is that if there comes a time that I move on from m43 to a full frame camera-- DSLR or whatnot-- it might make better sense for me to purchased some Canon or Nikon glass.

     

    What is your all opinion on my conundrum. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! 

    I, personally, love vintage glass... So I would go with the FDs but to be forward compatible you may want to go with the Nikon because they will adapt to any mount, making them essentially future proof depending upon what camera you go with but to get a really good set of Nikkor primes, you will probably spend a bit more than you would with the FDs. As long as you stay mirrorless, you can't go wrong with FD lenses. I have a set of the earlier FL, which is the same mount, and they are amazing. But, you could look into and M42 speedbooster and get a set of Takumar lenses... Great lenses, buttery smooth focus, the 50mm 1.4 should be in every filmmaker's arsenal, but even the 1.8 is a nice lens and the best part is the most common focal lengths are dirt cheap... like less than 50 bucks a lens in a lot of cases. The 1.4 will be about 75 but still if you use the lens, you would probably pay more, that's how good it is. 

  12. Yeah I still can't believe my luck on finding the only used D16 sold so far in Sweden (to my knowledge) and at a sweet price.

    I now have the Zeiss 16/1.8 and 50/2.8 on the way as well.

    Very nice. Are they all c mounts? If so, what other focal lengths did they make? I assume the bolex is a s16 sensor? With the 10mm, the 16mm and the 50mm you really only need a 25 or a 35 and you'll be set. Unless they make a 7.5mm?

  13. For now, you should read the manual to understand the basics. Leave out what is obviously not your business. For chapters 10&11 (COLOR!), you should reserve 90 minutes a day.  Read about it, see an online tutorial dealing with the specific subject and try it with your own stuff.

    You can be much faster if you use keyboard shortcuts. Print out those 'cheat sheets' (google) or buy removable stickers.

    Leave out the 'EDIT'-chapters for now. Resolve 12 (announced for June) will probably be a full grown NLE (multicam, audio synchronization, nesting, audio mixer), it can then substitute your beginner's NLEs.

    BTW: Never grade in iMovie (don't know for PE, but could be the same). It computes in 8-bit (that's why it feels so fast). That means you can only make one change without quickly losing quality ...

    Thanks Axel, I really appreciate your input. Yeah, I have to read the manual... I am usually a jump right in and tinker kind of person, but this is just too complicated for that. I am at a stage where I am trying to figure out my entire filmmaking workflow. I am not a colorist, never will be, don't want to be one, but this filmmaking racket requires us to wear a lot of hats. I would like to keep everything together... Editing, color correction and titles. Being familiar with the new iMovie I should probably just jump to FCX but... Money is tight right now. I see the potential of Resolve... it's just a little, or a lot, beyond my depth. I wish there was a quality program that just matches the look of all your shots, to me that seems to be the hardest part. Anyway, thanks for the tips...it gives me a good starting point.

  14. Hi mercer, I am using resolve 11 lite too, on a 2009 macbook:). So i know the trouble with the small screen. Basic color grading is possible, but masking becomes really too difficult with such a small screen. As it is a grading program, i think you should not actually use an auto color mode here;) ...that could be done in a program like imovie 11 just as easy.

    -First you should make yourself familiar with the nodes in the upper right corner. Just create a new serial node....and in that one you can go crazy with all the sliders and learn what will happen when you push what slider. ⌘-D will disable your note and you can check back and forth with your original footage.

    -Histogram scope is you best friend, never work without it if you dont have a perfectly calibrated screen.

    -And last you should get some LUTs. There are free ones online. They can be really useful to achieve certain looks.

     

    Hey Celli, thanks for the response. Unfortunately, I am your typical male, so I try to figure stuff out without directions... So I thought to myself... What the eff is a node? But that makes sense... Use nodes for different versions. My other issue, which I have googled the shit out of is... The top right panel of the program, where the nodes are, is cut off. I am using a new 11" MacBook Air, so I assume that's why, but most programs I have dealt with lets you reposition windows. The strange part is that I can see the entire bottom panels. But my real question is, how do you get different shots to match? I guess that's where LUTS come in? In the tutorial I watched about scopes, the guy used the histogram and primaries to balance and adjust blacks and whites and his rgb, but in my version of Resolve, the scope looks different and you can't see much of any blacks or whites on either end of the histogram. I do shoot dark footage, so I would assume there would be a good portion of blacks... Idk, maybe I'm not reading the histogram correctly. Back to google. Anyway, thanks for your help. 

  15. It's graded and grain added to give a vintage feel.

    But the lens definitely have a look to it and with this camera it is easy to get a "filmic" look. So I guess it's a combination. 

    Well, it looks great. If I was a wealthier man I would pick up a digital bolex in a heartbeat. If they drop the price of the bmpcc this summer I am looking into those Zeiss lenses... Effing fantastic!!!

  16. Hi, I have a couple questions pertaining to Davinci Resolve 11 Lite, but first I'd like to give you a little background info. I am relatively new to this forum, so I figure I would properly introduce myself so you guys will understand where I am at. I'm an amateur screenwriter with a desire to direct a feature. I have worked on a few low budget indie films that are in various stages of production... My on set roles have included, but not limited to... acting, camera operator, audio, and lighting. By no means am I an expert in any of them but I have learned a lot over the years. I filmed a short film about a decade ago on mini dv and have recently started working on a couple scripts that may lead to my first feature. Before I delve into the production, I want to do a lot of visual tests so I will know how to obtain the look I am after.

    So, yesterday I tried my hand at Resolve. Having never done any form of color correction or grading, my knowledge is limited to theory at best, and even that is rudimentary. What I am really trying to grasp, with the program, is a basic color correction. I have googled tutorials, but there are so many... I'm not even sure where to begin. After messing with the program, I can see it's benefits over the other two editing programs I have... iMovie and Premiere Elements 12... both are fine for basic edits but I know I need more.

    So, I took a simple shot that had mixed lighting... daylight through the windows, and florescent light. I have read that scopes is a good starting point for a color correction, so I watched a tutorial and attempted using the histogram scope to balance my video. But due to my macbook size, it was very difficult to fit everything on the screen and utilize the workflow.

    While in Primaries, I then tried the basic "A" function... which I assume means auto? That seemed to work, not perfectly but way better than I was getting on my own. Do any of you guys use the auto function as a starting point for you color correction? If not, can you help me with a quick and easy workflow? Or suggest a good tutorial series. I am not a colorist. I try to get as close as I can in camera but obviously that is not always possible. Any guidance would be much appreciated... in return I can answer any questions anyone may have on screenwriting... or I'll give your comment a "like" they may be of equal value. Ha. 

  17. I have the M1 and absolutely love it... Of course I am poor so this is my main camera for the time being. I found the M1 to be a no budget filmmakers wet dream, especially if run and gun is your style. With that said, it is missing some key things that I wish it had... First and foremost... Focus peaking so I am happy to hear it is integrated into the new model but the problem is... If I upgrade, I am not going to upgrade to M3... Why would I?

    But Andrew, I would like a little clarification. When you say that it goes to auto exposure mode... Are you saying from still mode? Or is there no manual exposure in any movie mode?

  18. ​Not often after I see what is best for the scene. If I shoot in natural light I can bet the K, but if I'm wrong I have to enter again in the menu. Nothing super bad, just annoying. With GH4 I can see the differences while changing ISO, shutter angles and WB.
    Of course is something acceptable for the great images it gives back :)

    I gotcha, yeah that must be annoying not to be able to see the changes on the screen as your changing it... Didn't think of that.

  19. Sounds awesome I love wide zooms. I have a Tokina 24-40 and a Minolta 24-35... I have only ever used them on an aps-c but the convenience of two primes in one is very good for run and gun. With the Sigma, I guess it's 3 primes in 1. 

  20. Thank you all.

    After a couple of days testing it I'm really impressed by the final quality of the files.
    Unfortunately the workflow is (at least for me) not ideal as the GH4's one.

    I can live without 60p (even if I hope in a future firmware update), but I find very hard to work with that display and I don't like the way I have to search ISO, shutter angle, WB etc... in a sub-menu.

    If you all have some advices for simplifying the Pocket's workflow it would be great! :)
    And if you have some tips to match the GH4 slow motion files with the ProRes 422HQ you are more then welcome! ;)

    How often do you change the shutter angle, ISO and wb? I get the inconvenience of sub menus... My main camera right now is an EOS-M, everything is touchscreen menu selection and my NEX has horrible menu controls... ironically my Pentax Q7 is the best with buttons on the camera body, but I rarely find the need to change too many of those options anyway. 

  21. Had some time for a quick test of my newly purchased Zeiss Jena 10mm f2.0. Its a C-Mount and didn't cost much on ebay. 

    Could be nice on the Micro since its so small and relatively light.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjrcSV5RyGo

    Matthias, that is one sweet piece of Zeiss. My question is... Do you find the lens or the bolex has more to do with the look of that video? Did you do any grading? The reason I ask is because the video looks so filmic. I would almost believe it was film if you swore by it. Very nice. 

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