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jase

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Posts posted by jase

  1. ​Looks great! Do you think there's still a dynamic rang advantage (compared to say, the GX7) without slog?

    ​I would have to do a side by side comparison to provide an answer to you. Could do that this weekend. At least my experience was not like "wow, amazing dynamic range!" - it was more like "wow, amazing low light capabilities!" :) To be honest, dynamic range was never my real issue I have to admint. Slog is no option for me due to iso 3200.

  2. Seems those LUTs are quite attracting some negative feelings. Since I am here to learn I would like to ask you guys to comment on this screencaps (I think it is quite clear which are OOC and which have the LUT with 60% opacity applied). Do you always favor the OOC variant?Bildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.34.42.thBildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.34.31.thBildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.37.30.thBildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.37.41.thBildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.36.18.thBildschirmfoto_2015-04-28_um_20.36.28.th

  3. austinchimp, I have the a7s since a couple of months and I am still on a path to get decent skin tones while having accurate colors. Trust me, I tested all those profile guides that I found on the net.

    s-log is at the moment no option to me since I want to have ISO 100 and i did not start using ND filters yet. Anyways, you might give those settings a go:

    Take PP2 as a base (with default values of course) and change the following:

    gamma: cine4

    color mode: pro

    color phase: +5

     

    These settings work amazingly well for me, here is one quick example:

    new_york.thumb.jpg.3ec457d82bd34ed6b0ff5

    Another very important aspect I found out is setting the white balance manually to appropriate kelvin values. You can look them up using Google if you are not familiar with them. Interestingly, I found myself nearly always using 5600k during daylight circumstances, no matter whether it is shady or bright sun (even with snow!). Only on tungsten light or halogen, I change the white balance to about 3900k and within the above mentioned color profile, i change color phase to +2 (i use PP3 for that to change it more quickly), otherwise the image is very yellowish.

     

    You could give those settings a try. I would love to hear from you if it helped a bit since I am sure that this journey is not done yet.

  4. I got my a7s now a couple of weeks and i decided to make a quick lowlight test while doing a workout outdoor. All shot using the Canon EF 35 f2.0 IS (what an awesome lens for run&gunners!), arround 20.000 ISO, Cine2 with Pro and some neatvideo magic, otherwise untouched. God i am in love with that camera. Still much to learn, tho.

     

     

  5. jcs, thanks for your valuable input. Regarding the a7s, which features both FF and APS-C mode, do i get you right that (assuming a lens with the desired focal length is given) APS-C mode has only advantages over FF if the shallow dof is not necessary? E.g. lets assume i am happy with the dof of a 35mm f1.4 in APS-C mode, this solution on the a7s would only yield advantages over using the a7s in FF mode with a 50mm f2?

     

     

  6. I find the Canon 50 F1.4 with an EF to E mount (I use the MB IV) looks even better on the A7S vs. the GH4 + Voigtlander.

    ​Interesting thought, but what makes the Voigt so perfect for me is - next to your mentioned things - also the ability of having a relatively short focus throw (for 0.3 - infinity), the added macro mode as well as the short focus distance. Given, short focus throw and close distance is nothing what everybody needs, but for me as a run&gun guy this is quite essential. Anyways, i will have a look into the canon 50 f1.4, thanks! 

    Does the commlite adapter has any drawbacks when compared to the metabones adapter?

  7.  

    the nikkor 50 1.2 is also "pretty cheap" and has a 90º turn, but it only focuses down to 0.5 ( I just checked with a ruler and the minimum focus on my version is 0.36m).

    ​thanks, greatly appreciated! So if i got you right, the lens scale is 0.5, but actually can focus down to 0.36? Would be amazing! Which version do you have?

  8. How's it possible to struggle finding a 50mm full frame lens with a relatively fast aperture? 

    Sony 55mm f/1.8
    Canon 50mm f/1.2, 1.4, 1.8
    Nikon 50mm 
    Nikon 55mm f/1.8
    Samyang 50mm T/1.5
    Sigma 50mm f/1.4
    just about any vintage 50mm lens
     

    ​Sorry - you are absolutely right. I forgot to mention that i am a pure run&gun guy, so i need a short focus throw of arround 90 degrees - and that makes it quite difficult.

  9. After moving from m43 to the a7s I am still struggling to find a proper equivalent for my Voigtländer 25mm f0.95.

    I dont care (yet) whether it is APS-C or Fullframe, so I am looking either for a 35mm or 50mm with at least f2, better f1.4. Minimum focus distance should be around 30cm and I prefer "real" focus instead of focus by wire (although i am open to it, if it works good). Pure awesomeness would be either setting the f-stops on the lens , compactness and/or IS, but this is optional. It would be also fine for me if it is a bit wider than 35 respectively 50mm, so sth like 28mm or 45mm would be also within my range.

    Candidates I already found:

    • Canon 35mm f2.0 IS 
    • Olympus Pen F 38mm 1.9

    Candidates i removed from my list:

    • Voigtländer Ultron 40mm f2 (minimum focus distance is only 45cm)
    • Summicron 35mm / 50mm f2 (minimum focus distance is only 70cm)

    Any suggestions from you guys? What should i go for within the 50mm range, if i stick to fullframe? 

     

     

  10. dont forget Nikon - the Nikon Nikkor 28mm AI-S is an 8 element lens and THE BEST lens Nikon ever made its almost distortion free!

    ​Hi Andy,

    are you talking about the f2.0 or the f2.8?

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