jase

Sorry for chiming in, but I also need some advice of you guys  Currently i am running arround with my GM1 and the Voigtländer 25mm - awesome combo. In 2015, i want to upgrade to the A7S eventually. Unfortunately, I cant use my Voigtländer on the A7s (although some sites mentioned, that in APS-C mode it could work with only smallest corner coverage issues).

Anyway, since I want to use the A7s in APS-C mode, i am looking for something in the 35mm range (50mm FF equivalent), which should match my style of shooting with the Voigtländer. Quite important to me is the compactness of my setup since i am using it for a 100% for run&gun. I know that i cant beat the GM1 (and i wills till continue using it), but i would love to come close.

Anyone who can recommend me something arround:

- 35mm

- f1.4 - 2.0

- minimum focus distance around 30cm

- focus throw arround 90 degrees

- as short as possible including the adapter (voigtländer is arround 7cm)

 

At first i thought to go with Leica M glas, but it is super expensive and has a mfd of arround 70cm, which can only be shortened by using a helicoid...

I love Zuiko OM glas, but the adapter is quite long.. FD glas has a smaller adapter, but is bigger.

 

Ideas anyone? Help is greatly appreciated.

I fully agree with noa, maxotics. I really like your GH4 skintones.. the A6000 ones look very very artificial.

​thanks Andrew - i am not that interested in 4K, so this beast becomes more and more attractive to me...

Assuming one does not necessarily need fullframe but want to use the APS-C crop on the a7s because of its low light usefulness - is there anything that is "worse" when using the a7s in crop mode?

 Thats what i thought, too. But sadly event this is not true. If you focus in this mechanical mode, you still have no linear focus pulling. What happens when you pull focus from let's say 0.3m to 0.8m: while turning the wheel nothing happens. then, short before the mark, the lens immediately switches to the corresponding point. I can post a video later to explain what i mean if that is wanted.

To the OP: +1 - also for me this is very annoying.

I vote for GM1, since I am using it completely for run&gun. The missing stabilisation is not that much of a problem if you have a steady hand and if you actually wont run while shooting ;)

 

Some examples with that camera:

 

 

 

Would love to use them, but since weight is one of my key issues i am searching for something like nikon focal reducer + 35 f2.0 so that i get close to 25mm on m43... 

 

Like we discussed in the lenses topic, character is key.

I prefer to push a lens into its sweet spot of artistic look ....full wide open or just one stop down from there thats where I find the magic of a lens is looks wise...not at clinically perfect f5.6 - at which all lens are pretty good.

Interesting aspect.

 

Especially for me as a pure run&gunner I find myself shooting pretty often at f2.0-f4.0 - although i could use f0.95 (using the Panasonic GM1 & Voigtländer 25mm).

So if i followed this topic correctly: if I shoot my lenses on m43 mostly wide open (or pretty close to that), FF like the A7s makes little sense?

 

Initially i planned to upgrade to FF eventually, but this is taking a complete different turn...

From my tests there is no advantage in using the ETC mode unless you're not planning to do any post work.

I did not really get the buzz around ETC anyway. The only reason is avoiding work in post as you are stating.

Gorgeous. Absolutely stunning! I visited Indonesia in 2010 and your video reminds of so many places that I have seen there, too. Awesome!

Sounds great Matt, cant wait to see your results!

 

I have to admit that I find myself watching the footage with the filter quite often. It looks beautifully (to me).

I am using the GM1 for more than a year now and it is a superb camera. Buying the bigger brother GX7 is a no brainer if you dont mind the bigger size (which I do). Herea couple of examples what you easily can achieve:

To be honest: I dont know. A couple of  observations:

 

- if you look closer, you will see that blurred background tend to look noisy when FilmConvert is used.

- focusing is a bit harder due to lower contrast

- Focusing without a hood got much harder in direct sunlight; i really need an EVF. Maybe I will upgrade to GM5.

 

Since I am a frequent reader here at EosHD, i am infected with a constant GAS. However, when editing a new shot, I am still amazed by the quality of this combination (I only shoot 720p@50fps!).

Here my first actual piece i shot with the filter. I have to admit that I am quite pleased!

 

After following this thread with a high amount of interest, I decided to look out for the Canon FD 35mm f2.0 (the thorium version). According to Wikipedia, there exists two versions: the normal one and the SSC one.

 

If i interpret everything said above right, i should go for the non-SSC version, right?

 

Can anyone recommend a focal reducer for canon fd - m43? Is the Zhongyi one fine or should it be metabones?

awesome for OOC!

Another quick comparison I did:

 

 

This time outdoor (cloudy) including the ultra contrast 3 - and no sharpening in post ;)

 

I have to admit that i definitely will return the 5, since the 3 is sufficient. What really bothers me is that this filter does not really work together with filmconvert's film grain (which is 50% in this example).

Yeah, I am not a 100% sure whether it is too strong or not - unfortunately I ordered it before you updated your post :)

 

Maybe I will swap it also with the #3

 

Nice video btw!

Yesterday I received mine and i did a quick & dirty comparison:

I am quite pleased but I need to do some outdoor shots this weekend. The filter looks a bit like leica glow without loosinh sharpness however.

I find a bit more difficult to focus without an EVF on my GM1 - maybe i need to upgrade to GM5 :)

 

@jase: Theres actually two methods of manual focus with that lens. One is to pull the ring back, which reveals a distance marker. In this mode, the ring stops at either end of the scale, so you know when you're hitting max or min focus. Only issue is if you rotate the ring too slowly, the focus will "pop" rather than transition like a normal manual lens. The other mode is if you change the camera's AF/MF switch to MF, the ring will change the lens' focus like a normal lens but theres no distance markers or stops at each end to help guide you.

I know that behaviour - I once had the Olympus 12mm f2.0 which works about the same. However, as much as i like the scale, i dislike this "pop" effect since changing the focus smoothly is not possible... A lens like those from Olympus with smooth focusing would be my wet dream.

I used the Olympus 17mm f1.8 almost exclusively for the first 8 months of owning the camera. Actually one of the reasons I bought into MFT was so I could use that lens. Great lens with nice photography style manual focus ring rather than most other MFT lenses which dont have a distance indicator or stops at either end of the scale. 

Correct me if i am wrong, but this lens does still focus by wire, right? I did not find any lens up until now where i liked focus by wire. Thats the reason why I am only using my Voigtländer 25mm although i would prefer something purely manual with the same FOV but smaller lens, since i only do run&gun.

 

The only option i see is the Leica M summicron 28, which costs a fortune...

Indeed, thanks for sharing! Ordered one :)

They would be quite stupid not to add these improvements to the a6000 - at least I as a possible customer would loose fate..

Now all I want for christmas is that codec on the a6000 - i really need that EVF.