Gábor Ember

A finnally got around to start actual CAD work, still pretty noob at it. I don't know how to make threads but the sizes are accurate.
Sun front, Sun back, Helios block

 
Slot for the Sun back lens that sits right on the front of the Helios block
  Ring that holds the Sun back lens in the slot (similar to the original design, except now it is on the front side of it)  
I still don't know if white lithium grease would be good as helical grease for this build.
Also I am thinking of screwing a M42 to EF adapter to the back of the lens tube with 3 screws. Would this be a good idea or is it better to find a broken Canon EF lens and use its mount instead?

Here's a suggestion & its a cheap one.
You've got 2 5D3s & a collection of Canon L glass, yes?
Install a stable version of Magic Lantern for the 5D3 - NO, you're not going to use RAW!
In the Movie menu, at the top, there's this setting that will increase the Bit Rate of the H264 video.
Now because the 5D3 will accept fast CF cards, you should be able to increase the recorded Bit Rate & record sound (you'll have to experiment how far you can push the Bit Rate, but anything over 2 will be good - 3 would be great!).
If you use a good PS (VisionColor is v.good), this increase in Bit Rate will give you a lot more room to CC & even sharpen your footage in post.
 
Quite frankly, that's the only/best solution for you - a Nex isn't going to be better than a 5D3, not today, tomorrow, never.
Furthermore, for any detailed GVs that you might need, which don't need sound, you could use a short burst of RAW.
 
Other than that, I just don't see what your dilemma is - you've got 2 5D3s, use them Goddamit!

I think it works yes, I can focus way beyond 10 meters. Are you able to focus very close, less than 1m? If you are not able to reach infinity then the other end of the focus must be shifted as well.

Hahaha, ok, I must admit, the one shot that everyone is talking about is my favorite one as well. hahahaha
And, yes, it would've been awesome to have a split diopter there!
 
Gábor, here's a couple frames for you! Original DNG, from the camera, and the final version, TIFF.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7myl8fbts6jk7r/EP1-shot01-ORIGINAL.dng
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykujpup5sid5vq2/EP1-shot01-FINAL.tif
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5cffzizzk344nyv/EP1-shot02-ORIGINAL.dng
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rvfcvr6qr3xq7q2/EP1-shot02-FINAL.tif
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uh3gkhnn6gmwr2y/EP1-shot03-ORIGINAL.dng
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t0hnbn6sqqggoyl/EP1-shot03-FINAL.tif

At least it squeezes the image and flares nicely :)
 
Oval bokeh might be there, if you shoot close enough.
 
I recall there is a kickstarter on anamorphic adapter before...

@enny: This video compares the BMCC with 5D3 H.264 - not the Pocket with 5D3 RAW.

Yeah from the image it looks like it should be unscrewed at the 4inch mark of the tape measure.
The remaining part should be like this: http://transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/iscon3.jpg , this is the anamorphic adapter part.
I suggest you ask JohnBarlow

If it worked without the taking lens then it means that it has the original taking lens on the back of it (the projection lens). By itself an anamorphic adapter cannot produce an image. You should try to unscrew the back part of the lens, or maybe post an image of the lens first.

I do modifications on big to medium lens, the last one modified Moller 63/2x minimum fd was 1,8m (6ft) until couple of days ago, when modified even further, haven't tested it yet. The price of modification for lens is 250-500€. Optional rehousings available. Waiting time 30-60 days. Servicing starts at 85€, waiting time 7-14 days. You pay shipping charges both ways.

That lens is really sexy.

Well I guess my idea of rehousing the taking lens and the anamorphic together caught on. I will rush my design and buy up all SUN anamorphics I can find and sell the rehoused stuff for 1K. I will be rich. Market it as a whole new design with the intention of vintage look and retro flare.
 
I am glad that anamorphic lenses are being produced, just don't try to fool anybody. At the very least make it look different. Make it durable, metal. I think it would be very nice if this "new" lens properly mention what it is. Say that it is a Zeiss Jena taking lens and a Pana anamorphic paired together in a beautiful, sturdy body. No alignment issues and such. Just don't try to market it as a whole new deal.
 
rant over.

Well sort of. It needs to be mounted on the back lens group and move together with it. It can be done on telephoto lenses that have room at the back of the lens (check out the back of a Jupiter-37A, you could easily fit a Helios back lens group in there), otherwise the focal reducer hits the mirror. Would be good to own a mirrorless cam. That way I would not need a negative diopter, I could move the whole lens closer to the sensor.

Are there any negative diopters? I mean usually they are useless but does anyone know about them being produced for photography? I used the back glass group of a Helios as a focal reducer successfully but it reduces the working distance and I want to counteract this by using a negative diopter.
I haven't used this for anamorphic yet, but I thought I ask this here.
 
Here is a Hoya 200mm f3.5 working as a 135mm f2.0 (estimated)

Use it to project your anamorphic videos

I will probably sell my rehoused sun+helios for a million once it's finished. Etch some Cine Retro Flare Vintage writing on it. The anamorphic craze will surely take it.

Anamorphic speedbooster would not be the same as a front anamorphic. You would not get the oval bokeh. I read that rear anamorphics do not produce these since the spherical elements are in the front.

When I spoke about gearing I was talking about the relationship between the throws of the two optics, not necessarily toothed gearing.
 
The slotted approach is a well tried and tested solution.
 
I would advise you to accurately plot the throw of the scope and the lens on the same axes, to see the difference in the focus profiles. Set up some targets from 1.5m to INF at say 0.5m intervals, to get a high resolution plot of this behavior to assist you with the design of the slot. I would be surprised if it was not some snaky shape as you illustrated above.

Here are some x-ray pictures of Hawk and Lomo anamorphic lenses. That can maybe help you to see more whats going on there. :)

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?75869-FS-LOMO-Anamorphic-Roundfront-set-F-35-50-75-NEW-PL-mount-ARRI-gear-rings&p=974248&viewfull=1#post974248

This animation is almost what I had in mind:
http://www.pierretoscani.com/images/echo_shortpres/Figure-18-anim-UK.swf
 
www.pierretoscani.com/images/echo_shortpres/Figure-18-anim-UK.swf
 
The main difference is that I wanted to put the Cam Ring on the outside, not the inside.
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/media/2013/01/helicoidsml.jpg This is how i planned it.
 
The anim represents a single focus system.
 
My friend does magic with aluminium so once I have the design he could probably machine the parts in a week. I am open to any suggestions about the project.

Actually, I think it's the opposite of this... o.O

Here are two pics with the Jupiter-9 at f2.0 and f8.0 respectively. At f8.0 it is very, very sharp. I am now sure that my Helios was the culprit before.
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:650]   [sharedmedia=gallery:images:651]

a friend of mine used this website to have some models 3d printed. i intend to use them for printing a system to make dual focus single focus (similar to what you're doing i think.) 
 
http://www.shapeways.com/

My personal opinion is that this green flare is not created by the nikkor. It's a stretched flare, and sphericals mostly produce round ones, like these.
 
http://i2.wp.com/ferradans.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/mg_1331.jpg
 
Of course, I might be wrong too. hahahaha :)
Have you tested a similar camera setup with a different taking lens?

I was working on my Sun+Helios combined rehousing idea. I tried the emachineshop software. It is hard to create complex shapes (I don't know how to do it yet). I thought I could design a body with only very few parts, but these few parts would have been too complex so now I am redesigning it to be like a Lego set :)
 
I am trying to figure out if it is possible to convert the dual-focus system to single focus. I know the lenses do not have linear focus measurement, but still...
If that does not work on paper, then I will do a rehousing with dual focus system. but the two lenses will still be in one body, prealigned.
 
Once I will have some proper cleaned up drawings, I'll make a thread about it.

lens alignment issue in the anamorphic attachment i would think. the petrascope i have illustrates pretty clearly how misalignment between cylindrical optics renders everything unfocusable. i imagine anyone with any apefoscope could say the same thing (i.e. get something in perfect focus - rotate one of the elements as little as you possible can (( <1 degree)) = everything soft)