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Rungunshoot

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Everything posted by Rungunshoot

  1. I'm talking about conforming 60p to 24p at 100% speed. To do slow-motion, you can just conform the footage and you should get perfect motion.  You don't need twixtor unless you're going slower than 40%.
  2.   One more advantage of keeping an RX100 on hand is that you always have a macro lens.  Most DSLR lenses don't focus nearly as close as the RX100 at 28mm, so it can be a lifesaver if you need an insert shot of words on a page, etc.
  3.   Try a demo of ReelSmart Motion Blur, which re-generates the missing motion blur in high-framerate footage.  Just drop the effect on the shot in a 24p timeline.  It actually works pretty well in making 60p/24p footage less jerky.
  4. I popped out the lens of an old pair of eyeglasses and held it in front of the camera lens shooting wide open at 50mm f/1.4.  Pretty cool effect. Got the idea from Stephan Kot on Vimeo.   https://vimeo.com/61388631
  5. I did a blog post about the settings I use for video as a step-by-step guide.   http://rungunshoot.com/how-to-set-up-your-sony-rx100-for-cinematic-video/   Would be interested to hear people's thoughts; I'm open to revision if there's something I'm not doing optimally.
  6. No noise removal in post. The thing I've learned about Sony cams is that keeping the contrast at 0 results in very little visible noise, even at ISO 3200.  Decreasing contrast in-camera seems to lift not just shadows but increase chroma noise, even once I've applied an S-curve in post. And I haven't found that there's any increase in shadow detail by reducing in-camera contrast.  So there's no point to it.   So the trick is to get as close as possible your final look in-camera when shooting high ISO's, and keep the contrast at 0.
  7. Hi all, I'm just trying to make sense of what this all means for a NEX-5n and FCP X user.  Really simply: when I open the vectorscope, I see my highlights going above 100.  If I lower the highlights to 100% via the native color corrector, I seem to get a little detail back.   The blacks already go to 0 so I assume there's no need to lift the shadows.   Is that it? 
  8. Thanks, all handheld.  ISO was usually at 1600 or 3200.  I kept the contrast set at 0 - this hides the ugly, compressed noise that the 5n generates at high ISO values, and attributes more shades of grey to the midtones.   It was really dark in that place and I'm amazed I got such a usable image.  I would love to get my hands on a FS100 + Speed Booster and film a black cat on a coal field at midnight at new moon.
  9. Went out last night and had an amazing time at a place called Bungalow in Santa Monica. Brought my NEX-5n with an old Nikon 50mm f1.4 AIS lens and the Metabones Speed Booster.  It was DARK in that place, but the Speed Booster made me feel invincible.   https://vimeo.com/60971352
  10. Anyone have thoughts on the KineRAW Mini + E-Mount + Speed Booster? The KineMOUNT adaptable proprietary mount is supposed to get an E-mount adapter eventually (according to their FAQ which is currently only in Chinese).     So that means we'll have full-frame, 12-bit RAW 2k for probably $5-6k for a fully functional kit.    KineRAW Mini details:   http://www.kineraw.com/enproduct.asp?EnBigClassName=KineRAW-MINI&EnSmallClassName=Price_Package
  11. Does overheating tend to be an issue for this line of cameras? Do you think it would be suitable for extended interviews?
  12. Bruno, you're totally right about the Rx100. Excited to see what comes of the new sensors, especially since the NEX-5r and NEX-6 turned out to be steps backward in the video IQ department.  I bought the NEX 6 because they reportedly reduced the overheating issue, but  aliasing and moire are far more noticeable than the 5n on any fine detail or contrasty edges.  I'm returning it.
  13. It just confounds me that no other camera I've used has had this issue. Not the T3i, GH2, RX100, or any dedicated video camera.  I was trying to avoid using ND filters because I use ReelSmart Motion Blur to re-create blur in post on my guerilla shoots.  This allows me to go from indoor to outdoor, shade to sunlight without worrying about unscrewing filters.    But if this is truly a sensor issue common to all NEX-5n's I suppose I'll just break out the ND's.  I already have a good one from Light Craft Workshop.
  14. I suppose the Leica would give about the same FOV and low light performance of a 50/1.8 on the NEX.  Would have been great to have AF.  Wish I had that lens so I could try it out!
  15. This problem is rather hard to describe. Just trying to figure out if I have a defective unit, or if this is common to all NEX-5n's.  Here's a video sample.  Read my comments to know what to look for.   Please let me know if you've had the same issues.    https://vimeo.com/59504237
  16. The only thing I don't like about the 5n in low light is the blocky grain structure and soft image at ISO 3200.  You can really see the compression and noise reduction working overtime.   I really like the grain of the hacked GH2 and RX100.  Both those cameras retain fine detail at any ISO.  If the D5200 has a sharper grain, that for me would offset a bit of overall luminosity.
  17. But won't this invariably lead to poorer low light performance? I wonder how the D5200 stacks up when compared to the NEX 5n in low light. I have the Speed Booster and it kicks ass...wouldn't want to compromise the low light with unnecessary megapixels.
  18. I love making short slice-of-life films.  This camera/lens combo is about as light and small as you're going to get at this aperture and sensor size.  Easy to bring along on nights out without looking like a tool.   Nobody I was filming seemed to even know I was there.  Maybe that's not such a good thing...   https://vimeo.com/59377520    
  19. About an hour.  Basically the same amount of time I would have been running anyway.  Good luck with your concept!
  20. Hi, just wanted to start a topic about using 3rd party lenses with the Metabones Speed Booster.  Their website warns about the possibility of some lenses having protruding rear elements that could scratch the adapter or short out the electrical connections.   I don't yet own any EF lenses, so I'm currently using a Rainbow Imaging Nikon to EF adapter.  The lenses I've tried with this are:   - 50mm f/1.8 pancake (all manual)   - 24mm f/2 AIS (all manual)   Camera is a Sony NEX-5n.   After my first day of trials, this combo works fine.  My caveats so far:   - The Nikon adapter tends to stick to the lens, requiring a manual depress of the delicate release lever in order to unscrew it from the lens.  So I'm just buying another Rainbow Imaging adapter and plan on leaving it on the lens all the time.   - The lens focuses a bit past infinity.   Other than that, I'm really enjoying the Speed Booster and see no image degradation.  Will be posting sample videos soon.   Anyone else tried other lenses?
  21. Are you using 24mbps FX mode in 30p? The default is 17mbps, which will definitely show more compression.   And I also assume you're looking at  de-interlaced footage...   I've stepped through the 60p footage frame-by-frame to see just how it handles motion, and it looks like every other frame gets short-changed on the bitrate.  So there will be one clean frame followed by one blocky, highly-compressed frame, followed by another clean frame, etc.  30p seems to give each frame equal bitrate.
  22. I think the Philip Bloom method is obsolete now that FCP X has Optical Flow built into its rate conforming.  Bloom is essentially tweaking the old FCP to do the same thing, only in a much more labor-intensive way.   I think FCP Optical Flow (essentially the same as Twixtor) is the way to go. It's just damn slow rendering and not always 100% perfect, especially if the footage was shot at the wrong shutter angle.  ReelSmart Motion Blur can help fix the shutter angle issue though. That plugin works wonders for restoring motion blur.  I blogged about that recently at rungunshoot.com.   And I shy away from 60p for non-slow motion because of the compression artifacts. If you have a lot of camera and/or subject movement in the frame, the compression shows up in a really obvious and ugly way.  And in my tests 60p/24p isn't any smoother than 30p/24p.
  23. I've tried pretty much everything - different shutter speeds, different conform tools - and the results are hit-and-miss depending on what kind of motion is happening in the frame.  It's got to be possible to get good results though; I read that Act of Valor was shot in 30p.  Maybe it's just a bit of a painstaking process.   I've also thought about ordering a PAL RX100 off Ebay just for the 25p.  
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