stephen

Just discovered that Minolta MD 35-70mm f3.5 is parfocal. 🙂

Minolta MD 35-70mm f3.5 + Minolta MD 24-35mm f3.5. Minolta MD 35-70mm f3.5 is very good, Minolta MD 24-35mm f3.5 just OK. For video both are sharp enough,both relatively small and compact and two touch operation. Only drawback for me is that Minolta MD 35-70mm f3.5 zoom is most extended at 35mm. You can add also some of the tele zooms but they are all push pull type. IMHO using zooms would be the best approach as all brands had zooms in the f3.5 to f4 range. If you are willing to use zooms with non constant aperture you'll have much more options.

Auto focus adapters stacking - now you can use Sony and Minolta A mount lenses on Nikon Z bodies with auto focus https://nikonrumors.com/2025/06/16/megadap-to-release-a-new-etz21-pro-lens-adapter.aspx/ This Boryoza adapter claims compatibility with Sony LA-EA5 and TECHART LM-EA9 https://www.ebay.com/itm/286366368166?_skw=BORYOZA&itmmeta=01JYT46VRXBY4FAGD5NCK30AG9&hash=item42acc401a6:g:KDEAAOSwhPxnwDMQ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dFj0mM6EhbKtm2lYZj5jubCkvL5au4XyCXT1PLIS%2FzhkgvvlkkxknBA%2FAZxa%2Fos4mvQSNLijTgKGBUPQ%2FVLodAnXLzlRTI2NyMDwEvsQfnatF1MapHjnn2UmaTU6beK4uTVHEKe5mWm3R2p%2BQ3%2BuEAMx0Tbe9TkLihPa3aLELvcn556rDTHU%2F6NuyQGV1Xxwz1XbjxvHGpqruu1RViXDGi5otoYXZO5BB%2Beeg2Bqm8TA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR868m8T2ZQ Those adapters fit perfectly my strategy to have both a Sony and a Nikon camera but use mostly Sony lenses. Now this can be extended to some vintage auto focus lenses too. Cool. Sony LA-EA5 is mostly for photos One negative about Nikon Z cameras is lack of 3rd wheel in the back. According to a review I watched recently you can't reassign some of the other 2 wheels for ISO change. Changing ISO manually is not that easy compared to cameras that have a 3rd wheel.

It does of course. Resolution of the screen is low - 720x480 and it doesn't tilt. You are forced to lift 1-1.5 kg in front of your eyes and need also a LCD shade/magnifier for those sunny days. EOS M is much lighter. It is quite difficult and limiting to shoot this way and get stable footage and consistent results. I always preferred using it with an external monitor. It took me quite a lot of time to understand the simple true that my time on this earth is limited and time in general is much more valuable resource than the 1000$ difference between 5D Mark III and a decent modern camera. Agree with Al that ML is for people who like to tinker. I enjoyed doing this myself as well but now regret the wasted time. Even if they add a new camera are you willing to go through cycles of tries and errors and inevitable failures testing the hacked firmware ? I for sure am not.

Personally I don't care. But it is not OK toward EOSHD.com web site. When they post an article like this they should at least post also a link to the original publication. If they adhere to some professional standards or simple human courtesy. It is Andrew's time, effort and money that make this site and forum possible. So placing a link to original posting and forum would be the correct thing to do. Not to mention that if some of cined readers buys the EVF, and finds out it doesn't work for his camera, they would conclude they were lied by cined. Without having the full discussion here their article may be simply useless. Will double check and let you know

Those are urban legends. Every blind test I personally witnessed and those we know from youtube shows exactly the opposite. Color science, micro contrast and any other superiority claims falls short. Even professionals can't distinguish between different cameras and lenses. Like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZjIz8sB2vg Or even older and much more professional Zakuto Great Shootout from 2011. Does anybody still remember it ? Canon 5D Mark III is outdated compared to modern cameras. It is OK for fun and experimenting but that's it. 1080р is line skipped, so real resolution is somewhere around 1600px not 2K. Rolling shutter 21-22ms is OK but again far from modern standards and dynamic range is around 10.5 stops. It is a DSLR, so no EVF, you have to use external monitor. Workflow is not optimal as you need to transcode first from mlv to Cinema DNG. Compared to the low resolution, files are relatively big and take a lot of space. I don't see any reason for Magic Lantern project to exists when now we have so many cameras with internal 4K RAW Video recording.

@Noli - IMHO the other 2 buttons are none functional. I don't feel or hear any click. Original functionality of previous versions of this EVF was related to industrial instruments/devices. It was meant to be put on a protective helmet. Video input was AV. This previous version industrial EVF was fit with higher resolution sensor, HDMI input and adapted to another application - camera EVF. After your posting decided to test the EVF with other cameras. Borrowed a Sony A7CR from a friend. With this camera EVF had the same or similar problem to what you describe. Interestingly when I switch HDMI output on Sony A7CR to 1080i interlaced, there is no flickering or garbage but of course split on 2 and can see only the upper half portion. If I choose auto or 1080p - then initially picture in EVF is some flickering garbage. I have found that have to wait certain time, quite long - 5 to 7 min. After this when I switch EVF off / on picture becomes good and clear. It works as it suppose to work. If I a switch briefly camera off / then on again it still works. But if camera is switched off for longer is stops working and have to wait again. I used also external monitor with HDMI out. Camera is plugged in HDMI IN of the monitor and EVF in HDMI OUT of the monitor. It works without a problem. IMHO your conclusion that problem is related to power delivery from camera trough HDMI to EVF is correct. It is strange than after some time , EVF or Camera worms up and it works on certain cameras. Curious to see if HDMI cable with additional USB power delivery will solve problem. It won't be the best solution but at least it will work reliably. Have to warn everybody who wants to get this EVF that it doesn't work with all cameras. Guess I was lucky as it works without those problems on Sony ZV-E1.

As expected Lumix S1 II uses the same sensor as Nikon Z6 III. Panasonic apparently managed to improve on Nikon Z6 III Achilles heel - 1 stop of lower dynamic range in ISOs under 800. Lumix S1 II has DR above 12 stops at the expense of slightly slower rolling shutter. That's a good decision and achievement. We can always go to APS-C mode and have really fast 6ms rolling shutter. Price in Europe is 3500 Euro as rumors suggested. I think this is a good strategy from Panasonic. Sell to the more impatient at higher price, then as time passes prices will go down. Nikon Z6 III started at more than 2600 Euro, now can be purchased brand new for 2000 Euro. Lumix S1 II is a true hybrid but more on the video side.

Panasonic older bodies are good value. New bodies are not. S1R II sells for exactly the same price as Nikon Z8 which has faster and fully stacked sensor. If rumors are true S1 IIE with same sensor as S5 II will be 2800 Euro. Same sensor with very similar specs in the form of Nikon Z5 II sells for 1700 Euro. S1 II supposedly will have the same semi stacked 24Mpx sensor as Nikon Z6 III and will cost 3500 Euro. Nikon Z6 III current price at a local shop is 2000 Euro. I don't think Panasonic will be able to keep these prices. Andrew is right, don't see how new cameras from Panasonic can attract or entice Nikon and Sony users to switch. Maybe with some unique features like open gate or anamorphic ? For me Nikon becomes more tempting not only because prices are significantly lower for the same sensor and similar specs but because NRaw can be edited directly in Resolve, while ProRes RAW can't. Avoiding transcoding is a significant time saver for me if I want to shoot RAW internally. There are no bad cameras and it's good Lumix cameras have their fans and users.

You can use Davinci Resolve practically with any mid range or even low specs PC or laptop and still have smooth scrubbing and editing experience by just changing a few settings. You can find which ones in Learn Color Grading youtube channel. The only difference between different PC or MAC configurations would be the export times. Faster and more powerful PC or Mac will give you shorter export times. In the comments of the following video you can find benchmark results from different generations and configurations of Apple Arm chips and PC builds as well, how their export times compare to each other. You can benchmark and compare your current configuration if you are curious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aKttjfY-Og Was in a similar position as you, considering PC upgrade. Bought second hand Mac Studio instead for several reasons good price - 1500 E for a well specked machine - Mac Studio M2 Max 12 Core CPU, 30 Cores GPU, 64 Gb RAM. Not willing to spend 4000-5000 E for a brand new MAC machine with similar specs. 64Gb RAM is a must. 1500E though is a very good price and I don't mind buying second hand. SSD test showed it is in really good shape with lots of write cycles left. get some firsthand experience with arm processors and have at least one machine running Mac OS. Always wanted to try those Apple Arm processors, they are so efficient and fast. VirtualBox which I use professionally can now run on Apple Arm CPUs. use it as a video / photo editing machine, as my PC build is relatively old - i7 9700K with Radeon 6600 8Gb. run some local AI models, do some research in this area, related to my professional work. Apple ARM CPUs have unified memory with fast access which makes them really good to run AI models. They can’t do AI training though. Mac Studio has a replaceable SSD. If at one point in time mine dies I can still buy one from Apple or from alternative source for cheaper price. It doesn't have screen, keyboard and doesn't move so in theory it should be less prone to failure. Apple ARM CPUs and Graphics have hardware decoding for x265, which is another bonus for video editing compared to my older PC It is small, dead silent and runs everything so fast and smooth that I really don't need anything better. Mac OS has it quirks and if you've been a PC user for a long time, you'll need some time to adapt. Maybe in the future I still will upgrade my PC but currently Mac Studio is my main machine for video editing.

They won't keep the same sensor. Megapixels may be the same but sensor will be faster partially or fully stacked sensor. This seems to be a common theme creeping in the rumors for most mid tier cameras that will appear this year. Nikon was the first with Z6 III, so the partially stacked sensor is available for Panasonic. According to the rumors Canon R6 III will have the same sensor as EOS R3 which is fully stacked. We'll see soon if 24Mpx fully stacked sensor from Sony will appear in a Sony or Panasonic or both cameras. At the moment it is pure speculation.

Few additional findings and notes: Tested it in bright sunlight conditions. It is great. Fully isolates the eye. Because it perfectly isolates the eye from external light, once brightness is adjusted there is no need to change it. Optics actually are better than thought initially. It has several lenses not just one loupe. Most likely metal housing was designed and used for smaller sensors - 0.5''. Current one is bigger at 0.7'' that's why far end corners aren't perfectly visible. I saw this only when was feeding it with signal from my laptop. When shooting with Sony ZV-E1 as already mentioned it displays a 3:2 crop at 1620x1080px and everything is perfectly visible and in focus. one relatively simple modification would be to cut the current cable and solder a female HDMI and probably glue it to the side of the EVF. This would allow to use better or custom HDMI cables. size is just perfect for cameras like Sony ZV-E1 and all other mirrorless cameras, especially when you don't want to use a rig and have just the camera and a lens, probably also a cage as it is in my case. Nice experience. Makes shooting with an EVF really comfortable. The more I use it, the more I like it 😀

Short answer: no. Whole mounting part can be changed but it will require skills and experience to create and make a new one

Apart of Canon there is one company only that produces sensors for hybrid mirrorless cameras - Sony. Panasonic will use a sensor that Sony semiconductors makes and sells. I doubt this sensor will be something completely new and unknown. Nikon Z6 III semi stacked sensor ? We already have it and Nikon NRaw can be imported directly in Davinci Resolve. ProRes RAW that Panasonic uses in their latest cameras can't. I wish Panasonic survives and stay as a viable player in photo / video camera industry.

Recently saw a second hand Sony ZV-E1 on a local online market place. Price was good and I bought it. Great video camera but lacks EVF. Same is true for it's pro oriented brother FX3. Typically those type of cameras are used with external monitor on professional shoots or with camera LCD display only when vlogging. If you like EVFs and want to add one, choice is not great. No external add-on EVF from Sony like the one Sigma FP has. Portkeys LEYE III modified with better loupe is the cheapest one at 450-500 E/$ but I wouldn't call it small. Then Kinefinity EVF for 1250 E/$. Great one but definitely not affordable. There is an obvious gap and need for a relatively small, high quality, affordable external EVFs for cinema / hybrid cameras. I was looking for quite some time on AliExpress for Mini OLED displays (0.39'' to 0.7'') as a building blocks for DIY External EVF. Usually they come with controller board with HDMI input too. Almost bought some components preparing to do some 3D design and printing around them. Surprisingly found an EVF ready to be used. This type of EVFs were designed to be used with industrial instruments and were on AliExpress for quite some time. They all had lower resolution and AV video inputs in the past. For the first time saw one with 1920x1080 resolution on a 0.7'' mini OLED display and HDMI input. Also for the first time this type of EVFs is targeted toward cameras. Price was good too at 230E/$ so I decided to give it a try. Received the EVF few days ago and am happy to report that it is better than expected. Here is the list of things that I like and few that I don't like: What I Like: High resolution 1920x1080 ( equivalent to 6 220 800 dot camera EVF). Cameras EVFs have 4:3 ratio to cover 3:2 frame + some black strips on top and bottom to display information like exposure and other camera settings. The sensor on this one has 16:9 aspect ratio. To get 3:2 ratio the EVF crops the image to 1620x1080. Still great resolution at the level of ~5 mln dots EVFs like the one in Panasonic S1 series. I see in the EVF exactly what I see on the LCD screen of Sony ZV-E1 minus peaking. This is a rather good thing. Solid, all metal outer shell, good, even great quality of craftsmanship. Eye cup is big, made from rubber and fits around the eye much better than traditional camera EVFs. Big and bright screen - has at least 10 levels of brightness that can be changed and controlled manually. Picture inside looks big and bright, quite easy to see. Smooth focusing / diopter correction ring. HDMI cable is integrated, ready to be plugged into a camera. HDMI cable looks to have good quality. No need of additional power or battery. It gets small amount of power (500mA) from HDMI. This is a huge plus for me. Has mounting thread, can easily be mounted on rigs or cages or even on camera hot shoe. Can be tilted and placed in any position you want. Another huge plus. I've simply put it on monitor holder for hot shoe, which is mounted on the camera cage. EVF sits higher and is slightly tilted. It also provides 3rd point of contact and add stability. I am able to hold the camera lower and closer to the chest, which makes it more stable when shooting. Optimal size for me ! Not too small and not too big. Relatively light. Another huge plus. Optics made of glass, look high quality. Great price for what it offers - 200 Euro ($) including shipping and taxes after some Aliexpress discount. Because EVF receives its power from HDMI you don't have to switch it on separately. It has its own ON/OFF switch but if you stop the camera, EVF stops too as it doesn't receive power from HDMI. This is very convenient because it semi integrates with the camera, you don't have to switch it on/off separately. What could be better: While loupe (optics) craftsmanship is high quality, optical schema is probably not the best. Seeing tower end of the frame and in the corners is kind of difficult. In photo mode EVF has to show picture with 3:2 ratio. It crops the display at 1620x1080 to achieve this ratio. Same is true for video. This is great because this way corners of the OLED display are always cropped and dark while picture in the EVF is still high quality and resolution is still great too. So you always look at a picture which is in focus from end to end and you can see the whole of it. Brightness control has many steps but goes only in one direction. Adjusting it when you want to make picture darker or go at the opposite direction is difficult. You have to cycle trough all settings value until arriving before the setting you were a moment ago. Brightness control button is too small and uncomfortable to use. Both are not huge issues because eye cup completely isolates your eye and cuts external light at almost 100%. Once you set the brightness level you rarely need to adjust it. It doesn't have the additional tools a pro external viewfinder usually has - like peaking, False color, zebras, etc. Because it takes power from camera and becomes additional consumer, battery is drained a little faster. Hard to say how much faster. I still prefer this compared to EVF that have their own battery. Picture is not as clear as in a high quality camera viewfinder. Native camera EVF receives video stream that already has noise reduced. Image on HDMI out from the camera is more like RAW video, lots of noise in the shadows at high ISO, some noise even at lower ISO. I guess the same would be with any external EVF, even expensive PRO ones. It's not EVF's fault. I also see sometimes some texture like noise, not sure because of this particular OLED display or because of the HDMI out stream. Overall picture quality is not up to what you see in a camera integrated EVF but it is close. Surprisingly noise in the shadows helps me better judge exposure and use successfully ETTR. I live in a PAL region but camera was set to NTSC to have 24fps. There was a lot of flicker in EVF image even when only natural (sun) light was available. Maybe this can be avoided with some additional camera settings. No such problem when camera is set to PAL and 25fps. Sometimes when adjusting brightness, EVF looses sync and doesn't display any image. Have to switch camera on/off one time and problem is resolved. Not a big deal but it happened once or twice. HDMI cable is integrated. A PRO EVF has just HDMI out socket and you can choose your own HDMI cable. This one can be easily modified IMHO. Size: L=~50mm; Diameter ~43mm; weight 188g with the integrated HDMI cable Overall I like it a lot. There is nothing like it on the market and especially at this price point. I am surprised it took Chinese manufactures so long to figure out that a good market for external EVFs exists. I prefer it over modified Portkey LEYE III because of the smaller size and no need to plug and charge another battery. I may buy another one. 🙂 Now my Sony ZV-E1 has an EVF and a great one too. 🙂 Here is the link: On Aliexpress You can find it on ebay too. Search for V780H EVF Here how it sits on top of Sony ZV-E1