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What situations do you need that level of stabilisation for? In terms of stabilisation, MILCs really have a long way to go (but a lot of potential!) compared to the crazy level of stabilisation that GoPro etc showed was possible. Obviously there are many factors involved, but there's no reason we couldn't get very good stabilisation from MILCs. One thing I do see, however, is that it's possible to have too much stabilisation if the camera is moving in 3D space, because if you stabilise too hard then you get that gimbal effect where the camera is locked onto a direction but is floating around in space like a drone trying to hover. If the stabilisation isn't quite as good and leaves a little shake in the frame then the floating blends in with the shaking and it just looks like hand-holding and doesn't look so odd.

Instead, people respond to posts that weren't written and proselytize and talk down. It's pretty pathetic.

Literally a non-controversial, non-trolling, basic question that you can partake in politely or not.

Not really, I've asked basic questions for discussion purposes but the elitism and condescension as your post demonstrates is strong here - i'd rather just find a place with more amateur enthusiasts rather than certain folks who think highly of themselves

What software are you grading in? and what's your pipeline? I'm in Resolve, so tend to use Colour Space Transforms, which gives a whole other way to look at things because everything is on the table... the ARRI LUTs, Print Film Emulations, etc etc. Lots of discussions about equipment occur here, but it's basically impossible to discuss cameras without doing it in the context that they're for a particular thing. Otherwise you could be talking about how the GH1 is better than the Z8 because it makes a better paperweight, or how an AE-1 is the best camera ever because when you mount it on a pole in your cornfield the sun glints off the mirror and keeps the crows away. Without context there is no basis to discuss anything.

Your questions have already been answered here. You're simply just trolling at this point, and not very well at that. Not sure what exactly is is you ARE looking for..

Don't take forum discussions and comments quite so seriously - Kye discusses equipment too. I think this forum has always been biased towards that side of things. But the equipment is used as creative tools, so both it and the creativity are very much linked together. But if you're mainly interested in the equipment that's fine as far as I'm concerned - probably most of the threads on the forum are related to equipment and tools.

Same! The color really brought us into a different/alternate universe!

I just realized - I did come to the wrong forum. I just assumed this was a wider community than what actually is. Many view themselves as filmmakers. I do not, I’m sure there’s other forums/places to chat just about equipment etc and not ruffle weathers of those who see themselves as “filmmakers”.

Actually unreservedly loved it. I'm finding that I'm gradually getting further and further away from preferring verite/realistic looks and getting into the wilder end of things!

I agree. I often apply an S shaped contrast curve, compressing the highs downwards and lows upwards and expanding the mid-range to increase contrast. Balancing the compression and expansion (and the inflection points) to get it look nice is the tricky part of course.... And then there's the accuracy or otherwise of the Rec 2020 to Rec. 709 colour conversion - I think every HLG to Rec 709 conversion LUT I've tried has a different take on this...

Agreed he was really animated and passionate thought it was a cool breakdown of the trailer. What was your take on the first film?

Not at all surprised - doing that is far more complex and creative than the simple documentary stuff I normally produce.

I'm not familiar with the GH5v2 but Panasonic was (at that time) updating cameras with all the user-feedback, and your description was certainly things that the community was wanting. I definitely agree that one of the main challenges is taking a clip that was shot in LOG and has 10-14 stops of DR in it, and somehow stuffing that into Rec709 which has just over 5 stops of DR. This obviously manifests in having to crush or severely compress various areas of the luminance range, but it also means that the source material can have colours that are dramatically more saturated than Rec709 can contain and you'll need to work out how to contain those too. Once you have enough DR to shoot the scenes you need to shoot, having more is actually a liability rather than a feature. I co-produced a 5-min short with my sister a long time ago, and we estimated that all up it had 10,000 person-hours in it. But enough of this blasphemous film-making talk - we should go back to talking about camera colour profiles like film-making doesn't exist!

Based on my own experience of putting together 10-20 minute YT videos, I'd agree with that. I don't usually do the whole editing process in one go - more often it's broken into 1-2 hour sessions and from start to finish it spans a week or more. My usual process to create something for YT is: Decide on the topic/subject for the movie (based on what content I've already got, usually from an event or place I've visited, recently or in the past). Choose the clips that might be included. Decide on a 'flow' for the movie - is it going to be basically chronological or geographical? Put the clips that might fit into the flow into the editor media bin. Put the clips onto the timeline in the right order. There might be 30 or more. Do a very rough cut and play it. Delete or trim the clips to improve the flow and get the overall length within the target (it's almost always too long to start with). Repeat the cut & trim cycle until happy. Go through the timeline and adjust brightness/contrast/saturation/colour as necessary (this can be very time consuming!). If a clip is proving really awkward to adjust, decide if it's essential to the flow. If not, could it be discarded or replaced with different one? Do a similar adjustment process for the audio content (equally or more important as the picture content). For the wobbly clips (which for old content will be quite a lot of them!) try to stabilise them - another time consuming activity! Add titles to tell the viewer more about what they're looking at. This often involves some research to find the information. Add timeline markers and generate a list of YouTube chapter points from them. Render out the movie and play it through to review it. Fix the issues found (there will be some...). Render it out again and upload it to YT as a 'private' video. Add a description, the chapter list, a suitable thumbnail and the 'end screen' stuff in the YT 'Studio'. Check it plays and looks OK on YT. Make it 'public' on YT and hope al least a few people watch it for more than 10 seconds... The above also needs cups of coffee and maybe wine too 😉 SRV1981 - next time you watch something on YT, just think about how much creative work and time has probably gone into it.

I highly recommend going to the source if you're interested in going deeper, here are a couple of interviews with Jill on Joker that I found to be fascinating and thought-provoking: ...and this interview with Jill on John Wick and other films where they even talk about specific shots etc: Lots of info out there if you search and go looking for it 🙂

I want that Dave Altizer back in this forum!😂 Like many other friends of the peek times of this forum! @mercer

The thumbnail of the XH2s and the profile picture of the guy look IR heavy indeed. It seems like he actually likes this look.😊

I want one!

I've been mentioning this before,that I found the GH5 much easier to grade than the S series. It has 709 as colour space vs V-Gamut on the S cameras, also two to 2.5 stops less dynamic range. For lit scenarios I was very fine with the full curve and gamut as contrast and color was much more stylized and designed. The GH5 in MK II alteration is still a camera I wanna check out with its creamy high resolution image. It's more classic and organic compared to the crispier image of the MK I. I have only seen one person ever with the MKII. It has 10bit in 60p 4K as well. And from the Mark I the beloved S16 crop or optional 2/3" mode via 2x digizoom. Is the latter without heavy aliasing and moiré on the GH5? @kye

I watched this yesterday and it inspired me to watch the first film (only 5 years late!). It's unusual to see Waqas quite so excited about something but it was an excellent view into the art, rather than the technique, in top-end colour grading.

I’ve been wrestling with just having and using a gimbal for at least 5 years now and have just sold my 3rd and final trial unit, the DJI RS3. I have such a limited use case and arguably don’t need one at all, but there are a couple of times on most jobs when I would like the option but without any of the hassle. Step forward firmware update 2.0/3.0 It’s not out for a few days other than with a few folks who are showing it off, but damn, it’s looking good. OK it’s based on an even stronger EIS which crops harder, but that is fine by me as I prefer a longer lens and with my Sigma 28-70mm f2.8 glued on to my S5ii and in S35 4k 50p mode, what was already more like 42-105 is going to become more like a 50-120. 👍👍👍 For the very rare times I need wider, I still have the dinky 18-50mm (27-75) in the bag but this is now one sweet set up for my needs.

Looks like it's only a problem with the nisi vnd

I'm just wondering why you were posting a random YT video. If I posted a new thread with every video I liked then the place would just look like my YT viewing history and not a forum where discussions can happen and people can share knowledge etc. I don't know what experiences you had in high school, but I've been an adult a long time and I've become fond of talking to people. I really don't know what you were trying to say? What point were you trying to make? Maybe if you actually typed something then there might be some communication....? There are all sorts of interesting things in that video, so the discussion could be a good one. Let's all leave high school behind and try and discuss things like adults 🙂

Here's my recommendation for SOOC shooting - Sony AX100. As Dave says "Sony AX100 looks better than your camera". Just look at the nice contrast, saturation, and above all... skintones! and in mixed lighting no less! Good luck getting that with a "better" camera - they all have far too much DR to give you a punchy image from their 709 LUTs or profiles.