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anacrofiloteca

Sun Anamorphic Adapter 16

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A set of diopters arrived from Foto-Tip. Akira +1 +2 +4 +10. Just simple, cheap, normal diopters, not achromatic.

I plan on using the +1 on the Sun. I think the original closest focusing distance of 1,5meters is not that bad. +1 diopter loweres the focusing distance to 1m - 0.5m roughly. I will measure it. 

 

The point of the new front part is to support a 58mm filter thread and to eliminate excess vignetting caused by the front metal ring itself.

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Well I set the focus scale according to that red line. I focus my taking lens alone to a subject that is at 1.5m, then I screw on the Sun and focus it so that the image is sharp. Now I loosen the screws in the focus scale ring and adjust it so that the 1.5m (5ft) mark is at the red line.

This is only needed after opening and reassemling the lens. After that you can leave it alone, the red line marks where the focus is.

 

 

I also use the red line as a "center line", well not center but a guide line for correct alignment.

I have a mark on the anamorphic clamp for each taking lens. I mean because of the different m42 adapters and different filter threads the clamp ends up rotated differently on each lens.

I level the Sun and mark where the red line is at that point. I use a Helios-44M and a Jupiter-9 so I drew 2 markers on the clamp with the capital letters H and J by the marker lines.

 

I will post some pics, I know it is not really understandable from my description.

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My friend took away the front ring and a diopter ring. I think it would take him at least two weeks to make the custom front ring, because both the front and end part of it will be threaded in the inside. He is not a lens mechanic so I have to describe the whole function of the thing to him. He did a nice job on the custom clamp so I believe he will do a great job again.

 

Now I have a partially open anamorphic here. I want to wipe the current grease off and use something more light.

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I guess yeah :) The front ring swap idea came just before you posted about your rehousing idea and I immediately thought that making it from aluminium parts would be your best bet. This custom ring took a day for my friend (not a complete day) and he had to measure everything, make the blueprint or at least think out what goes where too.

 

You should search for a shop that machines alu parts, Now they will probably will not do it as cheap as mine but I don't see how else you can rehouse a lens.

 

I made some sketches myself for the rehousing of a helios and the anamorphic adaptor together in one body. I just got a bit carried away :)

 

The front ring mod is a bliss. The vignetting is reduced and filters are fitted in seconds.

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Thanks!

 

Oh, I just noticed that I've failed to mention that the small 1mm screws are eliminated in the new design. The whole outer body can be screwed apart by hand.

 

I have just ordered a bunch of 58mm filters for this:

  • split field +1 diopter
  • graduated grey filter
  • slim wide angle adapter (wonder if it will be any good, my 52mm Fotga wide angle is really good on a Hoya HMC 28mm but it is horribly glowy on the Helios-44M)
  • slim fader ND
  • step-up, step-down rings

All of these were cheap, I'll post my experiences when they arrive.

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Very nice little clip. Real sharp for a cheap anamorphic.

 

I just arrived from Croatia, I took some shots there with the Sun. My shots are much more soft but I think the Helios is the problem here. I will upload once I have the video edited. Also I find that after the little repair I did last time the whole setup is much easier to use but my Helios needs service too, 1 of the 3 screws at the mount side is broken so the whole taking lesn+anamorphic wobbles.

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Wow, I got nothing like this. Maybe at closest focusing distances I get about the same sharpness but at bigger distances my setup is waaay less sharp. I need to learn what are the best configs. I may need to use the Jupiter-9 instead of the helios because of the vignetting anyway.

 

Also I use zero sharpness on my 550D so some post sharpening might enhance my results.

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I came across this YouTube video showing someone completely disassembled the SUN to clean the glass parts.

 

I can't help but imagine if I were to do that, the grease will get onto the glass and eventually ruin the lens.... 

 

Has anyone else here ever cleaned an anamorphic lens like that?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibXyJdSCRuU

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Really simple to disassemble. I was thinking of using lighter grease but I was worried about getting it on the lens too. Also keep in mind that screwing out the back glass part and screwing it back in might mess up the lens alignment. It has to be really precise in order to not mess up the whole image. If the front and back lens groups are not aligned correctly nothing will be in focus.

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I see your using split dioptres. Normally splits are for keeping foreground and background in focus simultaneously, used the other way round you can achieve some creative effects

 

Here is an example with a split +3 running from 1 to 7 o'clock with the clear side on the left, it was shot in adobe 1998 so may look a litlle washed out on your screen. Notice the extreme glow ;)

 

_DSC4246.JPG

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I understand its purpose, that is why I bought it, so that I can have background and foreground in focus while using shallow dof anamorphic. I did not have the split-diopter yet at the time of shooting the video above.

 

I haven't got around to actually using slipt diopters or simple diopters at all. I only did some tests so far. I like the look of split-field with wide-angle lenses better than with 50mm. Anamorphic is ok.

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I reported earlier that the Sun is not 2x for me. I have been using it for some time now and I can say that the most accurate stretch value is 1.66x (either set the width to 166% or set the height to 60%). Magic Lantern has 1.66x anamorphic preview so it helps a lot when shooting.

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