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My cameras and kit

Found 10 results

  1. Hey guys! I'm looking to get into video work, and I'm trying to figure out which camera would best suit my needs. I'm looking for a camera with great stills as well as video. The 3 main contenders for me are panasonic's gh3 and g6 and Nikon's d5300. All of them offer full HD at 24 at 60fps, which is crucial for me. They also all have a 3.5mm jack for external microphone. These specs are similar, but Panasonic's seem to be better for video. If it was video alone, I would choose the Panasonic cameras. But, I'm also looking for great stills. Right now I have the sony a58, and I don't want anything under the quality of its stills. The d5300 has better dynamic range, AF, sensor size, and low light performance. I've heard that the d5300 is one of the best APS-C sensor cameras for video, but it's also one of the most annoying to use. I don't want to sacrifice any stills/video quality. Which would you guys suggest? Here's a post by eoshd themselves against the d5300. http://www.eoshd.com/2014/02/nikon-d5300-review/ I would really appreciate the help!
  2. animan

    d5300 released

    http://chsvimg.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d5300/pdf/d5300_16p.pdf seems it cant autofocus with D or G lenses? nice big screen, shame no headphone socket.. 1080 60p.. wonder if aperture change in liveview is possible?
  3. I'm starting to set myself up a small videography business: just a one-man-band doing local stuff - community group promos, weddings, etc. I'm still working on the website (www.lintelfilms.co.uk) and have just finished the 2nd draft of my promotional film. I'd really appreciate your feedback on the film. I don't mind at all if you are brutal!
  4. I'm selling my D5300 as I've just bought a GH4 and can't justify 3 cameras. I love the D5300 but the GH4 image, especially with a speed booster, is capable of being very similar in colour and low light terms (and of course superior in many ways). I do in a lot of ways prefer the D5300 image - particularly the colour science - but I know that in reality, next to my GH4 and BMPCC, it won't get much use. Anyway, if anyone is interested it's on ebay starting at £299, auction closing this evening. There are no bids at the moment so if anyone here is sure they want it, message me and you can have it for £270 not incl. P&P (£11 to UK for next day delivery, I'll calculate worldwide costs if needed). Ebay listing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161521116555?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 It's in excellent condition - mechanically perfect and cosmetically I can't see anything to complain about at all. Shutter count is 2499. 1 year old. Still under guarantee for another year. 3 batteries. I shot these on it soon after I first got it. It's a great video camera. I'm going to miss it. *sniff*
  5. This is a promotional reel I've just made for the small videography business I'm currently setting up (one-man-band doing local community organisations, weddings etc). Everything in it was shot on low-end/cheap cameras, several of which have been discussed and compared extensively on this forum over the last year or two. To boot, other than the Tokina 11-16mm all of the lenses were each bought for under $300. After a couple of enquiries about the gear I used for this reel, I've decided to add subtitles to show each camera (and lens) each shot was taken with. Just click the 'CC' button in the Vimeo play bar to turn the subtitles on. I'd welcome feedback on my reel, but this is mainly posted here in the hope it might be of use to others: Sorry the subtitles aren't synched perfectly to each edit (it's not easy with Amara). You'll work it out though I hope ...
  6. New Nikon D5300 has started shipping This is the first Nikon to have the new Expeed 4 image/video processor and the first Nikon to be able to shoot video at 60 P.Nikon Canada are claiming that the video auto focus is smoother than that on the 5200. Any one else interested in this camera for video ?? I have several Nikon full frame lens from film days.
  7. I have a GH2, D800 and 60d. So far the GH4 looks like a very sensible next step, but typically I have 2 big jobs that need shooting before it'll be out. I have a speedbooster, and a growing collection of nikon glass. I do a lot of wide lens stuff currently with the tokina 11-16, but I miss the canon 10-22, bigger range and less barrel distortion. I shoot a bit of timelapse now and then Theres only about $250 separates g6, d5300, and gh3. Don't especially shoot in low light, but have found the gh2 blocky noise and fizz in the shadows to be an issue. If the G6 is no different in that regard I'll rule it out. (Some people say its better, some dont). I like the dynamic range of the d800 video, but thats about it. Really need a decent fast ultrawide for M43 or APSC too. (12mm doesn't cut it on M43, I need 7-9mm or 10-12 on apsc).
  8. Personally moving on from camera discussions and now focussing on how to get the best grade from what I have. I know that it's preferable to start with a raw source, or at least flatly shot source if you don't have raw capability... but what I don't get completely, has to do with film emulating LUTs vs just doing all the adjustment/grading yourself from scratch. Have done several tutorials and can get a pretty decent final image with just using the color tools in FCPX. But, then I drop various LUTs on top of that and it often looks even better! Logically, it seems it'd be best to just get good at dialing in your look from scratch and not fooling with LUTs at all, but there are looks I've seen after applying various LUTs that I can't even fathom getting on my own. A lot of Brandon Li's footage lists the Osiris LUT for his MK3 raw footage, and some of his RX10 footage as well. Is it a waste of money buying something like the Osiris LUT package for use with a Nikon D5300 that isn't raw source? Or, am I better off just spending the time to get the color grade/style looking the way I want without using LUTs at all? Or, is it best to get the basic levels adjusted in FCPX for a generally good look, then stylizing with LUTs like Osiris after the fact? Or, applying the LUT style you want to start off with, and fine tuning the look via the color tools? Sorry for all the questions, but it feels redundant using both the builtin FCPX color tools AND the various LUTs. (PS. I know about Davinci Resolve, etc. but want to stick with getting it with just FCPX for now)
  9. Hi I'm a completely new to the dslr video world but I'd like to get started. Checking out the reviews online and what fits what I'm willing to spend I think I narrowed it down to the Canon 70D or the Nikon D5300 I just plan on getting a body and then purchasing a sigma 18-35mm 1.8f lens and a good shotgun mic. I've been waffling back and forth as to which one to get. The 70D is a better all-around camera and a class above the D5300 in it's , touch screen UI, better build quality, weather resistant, quieter, autofocus that's actually somewhat usable, good low-light performance, better live view simulation and controls, better features for still photography. The D5300 however has some nice advantages as far as video goes, slightly better low light performance, virtually no moire, better dynamic range, headphone jack to monitor audio, and ability to output uncompressed HDMI, and from videos I've seen the image quality does look slightly better especially when filming people the D5300 shows the subjects skin texture & pores a lot clearer compared to 70D where it's a bit blurred How in the world do I choose? I would love to eventually get a Blackmagic 4k camera down the road if I can get good enough to make some money with this, not sure if that would have a bearing on what camera and lenses to get now. Thanks for any input.
  10. skiphunt

    Nikon & LUTs

    Hi, Experimenting with the D5300 before I take it on a little trip to Mexico. Trying to get something close to a decent look before I leave, and with minimal gear. Have decided that the 18-200mm VR lens, while not perfect, is close enough to my manual glass to sacrifice some shallow DOF for the benefits of the VR stabilization. The trade-offs are worth having a wide range, macro, AF for stills, VR for handheld, etc. So, now I'm trying to get the in camera settings where I want them to be for grading in FCP X. I've been playing with the LUT Utility with test footage I shot using the Flaat 10 profile, and a modified Standard profile. I didn't think I really needed the LUT Utility or any LUTs to start with... however, I just graded the same footage the best I could by eye and several different shots. Then used the Fuji 3513 to Rec709 at about 50% and miner tweaks to the exposure, etc. Added a little bit of grain and sharpened. Consistently, despite my best efforts, the footage using the LUTs comes out better and closer to natural film stock. I can get close starting with the Teal + Orange Look built-in to FCP X, but it's always better using the LUT. I'm sure a good colorist wouldn't need the LUTs but it's just so much quicker to get it right if you're a relative noob like me. ;) Anyway, what I've figured out is that I get better results with a tweaked Standard file than I do the Flaat 10 one. I don't think the LUTS that come with LUT Utility are the best for the Nikon, but they're not bad. I've seen really nice stuff from Brandon Li using Osiris, but it's mostly been from cameras like the Sony RX10, 5D3 & BMPCC which I think that LUT is particularly tuned to. Can anyone using Nikon here, recommend some LUTs that you find most appealing? Not going for Film Convert at the moment. Sticking with LUTS and tweaking my own profile.
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