Snowbro

Ah, np. I will likely have to pay someone to fix my audio when I do commercial haha. Learning all this stuff has honestly taken more time than many of my college courses lol.

That could be cool man! When I do some commercial stuff that has on location audio, I will get a better mic and hit ya up! Thanks

Thanks man, she is always funny lol. I see lots of good videos with that mic, seems to work awesome for these cameras. I think I will probably get one, I just don't usually record too much audio, but I think I will need to in the near future. Audio stuff can get really expensive for studio stuff, I keep putting it off haha.

Haha I know, she is so funny!

Yeah, that's what I was kind of thinking. I'll look into that mic, thanks! I was contemplating the videomic pro +. I heard that a few of the new Canon cameras do decent with the videomicro (m50). Hopefully the full frame Canons will follow the trend!

Hey guys; so I was telling a little story and used the Rode VideoMicro for the first time on my 1DX the other day. I know Canon doesn't have great preamps, but I didn't realize how bad it can be. I am not great at sound (just use Premiere cc), I tried fix the whooshing sound the best I could, without sounding like a robot haha. Can you tell me if it sounds ok? Or if you think I need to use a better mic..

I found it hard to create anything that I found interesting in many areas around where I live. I think it is more inspiring to go find somewhere you think is cool and practice there. I started by filming friends, then comparing what I had done to big filmmakers. That helped me to continue to improve, I still have a long ways to go, but progress is progress haha.

Haha yeah, almost all IG posts you see are with it (excluding traditional landscape pics). The one thing I forgot to mention; it sometimes can produce an odd solid green flare, it seems to be a Sigma coating thing, because I saw it on their 24mm too. I prefer the redish/orange flaring of the Canon lenses.

I have had good luck with the Tiffen Variable ND filters, just make sure that you test against a bright white wall sometime & understand how far you can twist it left or right before if makes our video look terrible lol Good call; like your videos!

Yeah that's what I ended up doing towards the end of testing! I also found that shooting in 4k & holding still without any IS, it looks shaky, but it is still usable with post stabilization thanks to the low rolling shutter of this camera. I had big issues with my Sony a6500 with stabilizing shaky footage, it couldn't do it a lot of times, looked odd. I think that Canon didn't really intend for people to shoot video & pan with these smaller IS lenses, my 70-200mm IS has a mode for panning and it works perfectly. I wish they put that into camera settings instead of a switch on the lens. Yeah it was really fun! I only had the camera for a few days before I went & filmed that, I used the faithful profile and turned contrast, saturation & sharpening down a lot. I tried cinestyle and couldn't get the blacks back to a dark enough level for my taste in premiere pro. I hear that people like those fake CLOG profiles for sale, but I saw testing somewhere that they can degrade your final image (counting post production) more than if you had just shot a normal profile and made it flatter. I got IG followers from doing a bunch of mindless engagements haha. I would find followers of large accounts I liked, look at their pics, comment & like if I thought it was decent, then follow sometimes. If you have decent content, people used to always follow back, now it doesn't work as much, but you can still get around a 10% return.

Thanks Mercer! The IS on it is extremely good for photos and great for video if you don't move much. The IS while shooting video feels like it tries to lock onto a point/subject on the x axis, so panning can be jumpy and not always correctable in post stabilization. The drone is just a tiny DJI Mavic Air, I had the Mavic Pro and I think the video quality is slightly better on the Air, but the Air can lose signal easy in cities sometime because it uses a form of wifi. It is very convenient, but I will likely get the Mavic Pro 2 when it comes out, I could fly miles with my first one in an urban area and not worry about signal loss.

Hey guys, I got really sick of hauling a gimbal around; setting it up back & forth between lenses and photos. I tested using just the Sigma 35mm & Canon 85mm IS on the 1DX Mark ii (120p). I was looking at getting a Sony for the IBIS, but i've seen a bunch of videos showing that it can be very jumpy sometimes. I only stabilized a couple driving clips in post. I pray for the day that we have full frame cameras with the IBIS like a GH5 haha. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this area of Utah I grew up in, it has some really cool hidden areas i've been exploring!

Canon 16-35 f/2.8 iii

I tried cinestyle & marvels, but not prolost yet. It is happening in all recording modes. I always have my shutter st double my framerate. I tested tons of different exposures & looked at them in post; they all had a decent amount of noise in any area that had shadows in person. It's very odd because I had ran tests when first receiving the camera & I couldn't even see any noise at various settings/lighting conditions.

I am wondering if it is because there is no internal NR on the camera when in video mode (just noticed this)

Thanks! I actually am from Utah

That's what I did on my Sony when shooting LOG. I found many pros mention to not clip highlights with the 1DX; footage does have a harder time coming back from over exposure than under. I usually expose a tiny bit brighter than what my final correction will be in post. Really wish they had put CLOG in this, I tried the fake ones & I couldn't pull the blacks back down to what I would like to see. Feels like there is IQ loss with the ones I tested vs a neutral canon profile (btw, I shot this on the faithful profile with contrast/sharpening all the way down & -2 saturation)

Thanks for looking at it. I barely brought back any shadows in some of these clips. I have a video on Alcatraz, where inside the prison, there are a few scenes that are perfectly exposed (no post adjust), yet the areas of the scene that are just barely darker have a lot of noise.

I have been noticing quite a bit of noise in the shadows when filmed at ISO 100. Not entirely sure how much of it is from my color grading (Made LUT from Lightroom). I see some noise when lifting shadows before grading, but not nearly as much. I have a feeling I might just be hitting the limits of 8-bit, but I sometimes see a ton of noise in untouched 120p 1080 footage. Not sure if there might be something up with my camera, I didn't notice any noise before. I will end up using neat video or something of the sort soon. Here is a quick video I just put together; you can see it when watching in 4k on a monitor when it is a headshot.

This looks so good! The lighting is awesome

Quick Update: I got a different copy sent out (somehow also beat up severely from fedex). This one does not have terrible bokeh and it focuses fast/accurate. It does exhibit one odd trait though; the last one had minimal red flaring when shooting towards the sun around golden hour and sunset. This new one has very dark red flaring in a huge red circles. Not sure what anti flare coating it has, but it seems as if this one has much more or less of it than the last one. I will test it more, but it seems like I can't catch a break with this model haha.

Yeah, it was in the corners more than anywhere else. I had a new one sent out; tested it inside & it is much faster/accurate autofocus than the first copy. I will see how it compares to the first one tomorrow. Every lens I have used on this 1DX II has been lightning fast, even the Sigmas.

Yeah, I guess it might just have some odd tenancies in certain situations. I just saw it creating ugly tiny bokeh balls in large numbers within areas that no other lense I use would (flat grass etc)

I noticed it looks fine when when shooting 120p 1080 video, but sometimes it creates tons of little ugly bokeh all over (tons of tiny bokeh balls with a kind of drop shadow almost), even things miles into the distance on photos. If I shoot more directly into the sun, it smooths things out again usually. My box came extremely beat up and the packing air pockets were popped. I don't know if anything got messed up; I doubt it, but I would like some input. I looked at tons of pictures on Flickr and saw a few that look like what I am talking about. Wanting to know if this is just how the lens is or if mine is bad, it focuses worse than my 85mm f/1.2 in photos and video. It looks like a very cheap lens at times which is disappointing, even my sigma 35 1.4 I used in similar framing on exact shots looked a ton smoother. I was not expecting that at all. All of these pictures are similar framing and cropped a fairly similar percentage (1/3 frame horizontally). Canon 50 @ f/1.2 (none of my other lenses have ever done this) Canon 50 @f/1.2 shooting almost directly into sun Sigma 35 @ f/1.4

Andrew Reid made a detailed blog post, on the banding induced by trying to use the MJPEG codec in Premiere Pro, 3 years ago (still not fixed). He suggested to convert to ProRes, but I prefer Windows and I was unable to find much on making it work flawlessly. Andrew's 2015 post https://www.eoshd.com/2015/01/is-adobe-premiere-to-blame-for-banding-in-8bit-dslr-footage-canon-1d-c/. I actually had tested a conversion to ProRes in Davinci Resolve 15 & Final Cut Pro X, from my MacBook and I noticed more IQ loss on every codec of ProRes I tried vs Avid (shrug). Here are the differences I found: Non-Converted Converted You can see a major difference in the sky when desaturated with a curve adjustment. The images were compressed within the forum, so it might be somewhat harder to see, but the original files are quite dramatic. Quick Steps: Use Davinci Resolve 15: I used the free version which only allows an export at 3,840 x 2,160, but you can use a wide aspect timeline or use the paid version. Install Avid Codecs: http://avid.force.com/pkb/articles/en_US/download/Avid-QuickTime-Codecs-LE Export Settings: I noticed much more banding in anything lower than DNxHR HQX 10-bit. Also do not have data levels at "Full" this will ruin your gama. You should retain nearly all of the quality from the original video files, by using these settings. Let me know if you have any other questions.