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Posts posted by mirekti
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5 hours ago, BTM_Pix said:
It depends on the stiffness of the lens but although the motor has a USB power input so can be powered from 5v it can actually take up to 14.8v which improves its torque to help this situation.
Tilta make a P-Tap to USB cable to enable you to do this and the extra power increases the torque from 0.65N-m to 1.00N-m.
Any chance of supporting PD Movie Live Air 2 motor? I like that it has its own battery.
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On 10/31/2020 at 8:10 AM, BTM_Pix said:
The detection range of the sensor is 12 metres.
12 meters is a very nice range, thanks for the clarification. One more, please.
Let's say I had AFC on, and focus at 3m, the target goes out of frame, and the next target is some 25m away.
Will the focus point remain at 3m, move to infinity or move to something in between? -
For manual lenses, does this work when the close up lens is added? For example my lens goes from 1.1 - infinity, but when I add a close up lens it is from 0.5m - 1m. Should I simply calibrate at different spots between 0.5m and 1m? How many calibration spots are there?
Also, what is the range in which the sensor works? -
Just bought the package for S series.
It kind of pulls towards green cast a bit, and if I change tint towards magenta the lips become a tad pink. Any alternative method to try to fix that?
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So is this a final statement from Leica? No plans on fixing this?
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5 minutes ago, Sage said:
I haven't used the S1 myself; I believe that @austinchimp and @Parker use it with the S1 specifically. I 'd like to support the S1 directly eventually, though there are some hefty items I'm working on at the present moment. With V4 specifically, the standard is now to project 'edge' behavior of a color space infinitely into theoretical values beyond 0-1 (resulting in clean theoretical values beyond the target color space). This means that if a V4 conversion is used on unintended display formats, they will be handled as if they were an extension of that core transform at center, free of artifacts (unlike V3). The entirety of S1 gamut and DR are addressed by the conversion, albeit not directly measured.
Translated in English, if one wanted to use v4 GH5 for S1H, should one expose the same, and then if there's some color case at which node should it be corrected?
Thanks!!! -
Is there anyone using v4 LUT with S1H? I wondered if it could be used at all given the fact GH5 is using v-log lite.
If so, could someone share few hints what one would need to do to make it work with S1H, please? -
BTW Why would one want to go with SL2 instead of S1H for video?
I’ve also read moire is quite prominent with SL2. -
57 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:
No response since NOVEMBER?
That is appalling from such a well know company. Are they trying to bury the issue and hope the publicity doesn't develop before the fix comes out? I can only speculate. But I want it fixed. Otherwise the £5k camera goes back to Wetzlar with a polite note for a refund.
And I had almost sold my M10 and S1H, sacrificed fast rangefinder focusing to dingy focus peaking in EVF for SL2. Boy, I am glad I didn't do it. It was the moire that kept me away, but I must admit I was ready to swallow that too.
Regarding Leica not responding, well, that's nothing new. It's their way or no way, and that's perfectly fine. They should issue you a refund, though. One of the camera's main features is not usable. -
Very nice. Do you use any single focus solution with it? If so, which one?
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Is there anyone here using Kase magnetic filters? I have tried Xume, but they add too much thickness, especially when stacked.
If I received the correct info, with Kase I’d be able to attach their ND filter directly to their step up ring, and it would be really thin in profile. My understanding is Xume uses adapter ring for lens and adapter ring for filter, Kase on the other hand (if I got this right) only has lens adapter ring, and their filters have a built in ring.
The problem with Kase is what if I wanted to add a diopter in front of it. I am not able to find if there’s an adapter ring that could be screwed on the existing filter, non Kase one.
Any thoughts on how to adapt non Kase filter to Kase Wolverine round filter system? -
6 hours ago, Gregormannschaft said:
I can’t answer your question but I’d love to ask. I’ve been looking for a cheaper alternative to the Rhino, Edelkrone and Syrp options out there. Have you tested it with heavier cameras at all? And are you able to get smooth motion with small movements? I find the brands above incredibly overpriced and would rather not spend 800 € on what should be simple camera movements.
My setup is 2, 2.5kg. I like it, but need better ballhead. It is a bit hard to push it up the angle, but doable. Vertical movement might be tricky, going down especially.
This review is nice, the only thing missing is variable dampening.
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6 hours ago, FranciscoB said:
Why not use the slider in-between the tripod legs and the fluid head? I've always used my slider setups like that and never had any problems.
It would slow me down, and limit the movements.
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So I bought the slider and like it a lot, however the ballhead it came with is not ideal for my setup.
Can anyone recommend a ballhead that I could use instead? The “only” issue is I am using manfroto based plate so it has to be compatible in order to easily move it from tripod (E-Image GH06 ballhead), monopod and slider.
As you can see in the second photo I use some cheap manfrotto based base on the original ballhead, but it keeps unscrewing. I cannot screw it in tight enought as the ball starts spinning at one point. Whatever I found was arca swiss based.
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4 hours ago, MurtlandPhoto said:
I keep coming back to this myself. The 18-35mm with a ProMist has nearly as much mojo as a vintage 18mm, 24mm, 28mm, and 35mm set at a far smaller cost.
ProMist is great, but I really hate the back reflections it causes.
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2 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:
Now Fujifilm has pulled out and only 3 remain - Sony, Panasonic and Canon.
But due to coronavirus they are now in doubt, which means Photokina is likely now completely kaput!
I think a good German camera trade show with a long history deserves better. Photokina has been mishandled for years. Sure, the final demise is virus assisted, but I don't see them coming back from this. What is the point of 2 or 3 manufacturers turning up every 2 years?
The thing I enjoyed the most about Photokina (RIP) were the smaller stands, many of them from China. How many of those will be making the trip this year amidst a near-pandemic for a show that may or may not happen, but one that needs to be booked months in advance and costs an absolute fortune for exhibitors?
Hopefully we get a NAB-equivilent for photo cameras soon, one a year, in both Europe and the US.
Honestly, the number of people visiting such events is very low compared to the actual number of the consumers.
Having a new product reviewed on Youtube is much cheaper, hits larger audience, and this is where it all goes.
I understand your point, but it is getting "old". You better focus on the reviews, but you need to add video content, you have a good starting point. ...unless you're camera shy
Cheers!!! -
Panasonic GH6
In: Cameras
1 hour ago, newfoundmass said:"The only advantage" isn't overall camera size though.
What are the other advantages, please? Rolling shutter is just a matter of time.
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Panasonic GH6
In: Cameras
7 hours ago, Video Hummus said:But they lose the light...
What loses light, FF when stopped down? That's true, but I'd say you end up with more or less the same IQ. I didn't do the comparison directly so I can assume you're right, but I wouldn't think the difference would be significant.
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Panasonic GH6
In: Cameras
3 hours ago, IronFilm said:I wonder if Coronavirus might kill the chances of some announcements happening at NAB this year 😕
Or ten years...!
Oh do please share! 😉
(would count as "prior art", thus if someone did try to patent it, this forum thread could help strike it down!)
Something to write on their tombstone?
True! So many people think of MFT's sensor size as a "disadvantage", yet at times it is an ADVANTAGEThe only advantage is a small overall camera size. I’d rather have a FF with better signal to noise, higer dynamic range etc.
Regardig DoF, the problem is in the lenses. If f/1.2 lens had a round aperture there shouldn’t be an issue at all, one could close it to f/4, f/5.6 and get that “deep” DoF. -
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On 2/16/2020 at 3:18 PM, HockeyFan12 said:
three screws - focus adjustment
Could you post a photo of these three screws, please?
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On 2/7/2020 at 2:11 PM, HockeyFan12 said:
Finally got this installed but I'm getting more vignetting than before. Did I do something wrong? Is it something with my lens (which has a bit of a weird old history it seems)... is there any way to address this? Otherwise it's really fantastic.
More vignetting in general or only in that "extended" range between 1.1-2m?
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On 12/2/2019 at 6:33 AM, Sage said:
The time it takes to support the S and update the 5 will be a *very strong indicator of how efficiently I am able to support new cameras. If I can do it in weeks, that will be a very positive sign for the S1/H, Ursa, XT3
As S1 and S1H have different sensor, do you expect each would need its own set of LUTs? Also, S1H has OLPF built in.
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Anyone here tried S35 60fps vlog (same for HD120fps)?
For some reason when I select it my files are H.265, and they appear as if they were already graded in Resolve’s Color page.
When S35 24fps is set, the files are H.264 and vlog looks pale as it is supposed to in Resolve.Funny thing is I can open that H.265 in VLC player and it looks ok (pale). H.264 I cannot open in VLC player.
Any idea what I might be doing wrong? Tried changing data levels in clip attributes from Auto to both Video and Full, but it didn’t help. Not sure what else I could try.
Development Update - AFX Focus Module For PBC
In: Cameras
Posted
This has probably been asked before, but cannot find it. What’s the field of view of the sensor? I’d like to understand how much od the image area would be considered center for let’s say a 50mm lens on FF.