Anaconda_

Blackmagic also released a plugin that lets you use Braw in Premiere. They didn't have to do that, and I think it's that approach that brings a lot of business. Their short comings are well documented, but they added higher frame rates, anamorphic modes and a bunch more in a free update for all. Not to mention Resolve seems to get free updates for life. Meanwhile Panasonic ask for a couple hundred bucks for Log profiles and Nikon are even worse, you need to pay them and send them your camera for a few weeks. Then you also need a 3rd party recorder to get raw, which locks you into FCPx, so only good if you're on Apple. That's also what drew me to Fuji - adding 4k to the X-Pro2 gave me confidence in them. They're not about to ditch the customer, release the same camera as a 4k model and cash in.

I feel like this is also so dependent on how you want to use your camera. Anything released in 2019 and on has great quality, but there's more to a camera. I've never used a GH5, but do use an XT3 and while the codecs are of course very different, editing with the files from the P4K is quicker than with h264, and of course h265 is even harder. Having an edit ready format SOOC is very valuable for me. BRAW even edits easier than h264, but is much easier to adjust the image - if you even want to. Braw can now embed custom LUTs, so your SOOC files can look however you want them to. That's another big bonus that only BMD offer. Then there's audio inputs. If you want to record internal audio from an XLR mic, you need the adapter box for the GH5/s - isn't that the same as mounting an NPF battery onto the P4K? Essentially, the same solution for different 'problems'. They're both great cameras, neither are better than the other, it just depends what you want your camera to do. (also both these videos are a year old or more... how come they're here now?)

I have the 35 f2 on my xt3 as a default. Great for basically everything. For shots that I want wider / longer lens, I have the Viltrox adapter and use either Canon 17-40 f4 or 24-105 f4. They work very well, but slow AF. So if that's important to you, go native. The Viltrox makes it more or less FF so 17mm is mega wide. I use Canon because I can also put them on my P4K. So I have 1 native lens for each system I use, and other than that always adapt. That said I might look into those new Viltrox lenses if AF works well.

Oh man, I just sold my OG Pocket, otherwise I could have checked and compared for you. Sorry about that. Hopefully someone else around here can double check it.

Not that I'm asking you to do this, but in theory, if someone where to make a small bluetooth controller for a camera, could one of the function buttons adjust the ND level wirelessly? That would be really handy if one could get a filter that would fit in the small Tilta Matte box.

Although I'm not the person you asked, I often edit in Premiere and on those projects, I find it much easier to grade in Lumetri rather than round tripping. This way, you can do a rough edit, rough grade, fine tune the edit, adjust the grade, tweak the audio, tweak the grade, add titles, tweak the grade leave it over night, tweak the grade with fresh eyes and then export. I'm sure it's different for everyone, and workflows differ, but rarely am I totally happy with my first grade, and even if I think I am happy with it, watching the project again will prove myself wrong. If I had to roundtrip for every pass I'd waste even more time for not very much gain. For this reason, when I can I also edit in Resolve, but due to client criteria, that's not always possible. I'm also much quicker with Premiere than I am with Resolve and when your workflow wastes as much time as mine, claiming back as many seconds as you can really helps.

Sounds a lot like us P4K/6K users. But that extra 1.5" monitor makes up for it all.

It's depth is a lot thinner than most batteries, but also the same length and width as most v-mounts. It depends where you want the compact to matter. You can easily put the Nomis in your back pocket for example, though I'm not sure if you can with the smaller ones. Some look like you could, but I can't test

I use this one to power my P4K and it works great! https://www.photospecialist.com/nomis-nvm-95-v-mount-batterij-95wh

I have fujis 35mm f2 and don't feel like it's too dark. Though it does depend on your tolerance for ISO noise - especially coming from Sony. The AF is amazing on it. I also have the Viltrox speedbooster and it's hit or miss with which lenses will have usable AF. the nifty fifty 1.8 seems to work very well, but the 24-105L and 17-40L both have pretty terrible AF on this setup. I've not noticed the smell on mine, but I'm also not in the habit of smelling my cameras. Next time I'm using it, I'll keep a nostril out though.

So I tested and bought the lens. Despite seeing tonnes of reviews its a lot wider than I expected. I've only done some simple tests, and I'm looking forward to shooting with it in a car. Edge sharpness is not a problem in what I've shot so far, though I'm going to limit it's use to f4 on the booster. Interestingly, when I first put it on my XT3 with Viltrox booster, I saw some pretty bad vignetting which really surprised me. However I changed modes and now I can't replicate it...

Thanks guys. Shooting in a car is exactly what I'll be using this lens for, and I like the point about reducing digital sharpness. The lens seems to be pretty soft in the corners, especially wide open. That said, the speedbooster will make it f2.8, so if I stick to using f.4 I've technically stopped the lens down and that might actually help a little. Going to see it tomorrow and will probably pick it up... Will keep you guy posted. Thanks for the help.

Hey all, I hope the holiday season's been treating you well. I'm looking for a wide full frame lens and keep coming back to Canon's L 17-40 f4. It's a pretty 'old' lens, but is amazingly low priced second hand. Is this still a reasonable lens to be looking at? It'll be going on a speedbooster and be used in tandem with the 24-105 f4. Essentially, they're both f2.8 and I figure will match characteristics pretty well.

I don't think they do record ProRes RAW.

I don't know much about the hardware, but you could get the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle second hand. They're pretty cheap now and give you HDMI in and out via USB3.0 or Thunderbolt (depending on which model you buy). I'm not sure how LUTs and focus peaking thing, but at least this way you can monitor through any NLE's capture process. To be honest though, the original 5 inch Video Assist would fit the bill pretty well for your needs. It is very cheap second hand, and will come down more when the new models are readily available. It's a much smaller footprint than a laptop and you can mount it on the camera for the shoots where you are near the camera, but want a better view of your shots. I don't think the price difference between the VA and the Intensity Shuttle is all that much. I'm sure there are also other options available to you, but these ones spring to mind as affordable options.

Thanks, that's almost perfect. But it also disables the aperture ring on the lens... Unless I'm missing something else?

I know how to get my shutter to 1/50, but is there a way to have 1/50 as default shutter in Video mode, but complete Aperture priority for stills? I'd like to be able to flick between stills and video, but 1/50 is a little too slow for stills. Can I lock the SS in for certain modes? Edit: I realised I can use the T option on the shutter dial to preset shutter speeds.

Great tutorial man. Really well explained and simplified process, thanks!

So I got home and updated and AF on the 24-105 is now pretty much perfect. But as far as I can tell the IS still isn't working. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I know with the BMPCC4k older firmware on the Viltrox fixes the IS, where as newer firmware doesn't work... is there a similar tactic on the Fuji version? Maybe downgrade to a firmware from the same kind of time?

I have the Viltrox for my Fuji XT3, AF works like a charm on the 50mm 1.8, but seems to be terrible on 24-105. That said, I only tested the second lens in low light, so that could be playing a role in my success. Also, IS doesn't appear to work on the 24-105, but I may need to update the adapter... I've not had it long, so can't comment on the quality of the glass, but for what I've seen it doesn't appear to be much of a factor for me. EDIT: I also have Viltrox for MFT-EF and EOSm-EF and neither of those give me quality problems. @colepat Doesn't the 18-35 vignette with a booster?

Can you install Data Rescue on your mac? Not to rescue your data, but in my experience it can read anything even if Disk Utility can't, and you can try to mount it from there. I think there's a free version that limits the amount you can backup, but like I say, this is to see if you can mount the drive. https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/10259/data-rescue

Is it USBc on both ends?

Why not 400mbps? How about AF settings? I'm yet to find a setting that doesn't hunt when it's locked onto something - using 35mm f2.

Although I’m not using it, the Leeming LUT setup guide says dr200 and 400 do strange things to the image. Will definetly try your suggestions though, thanks.

Hi all, I'm a little late to the party, but I just picked up my XT3 and I'm pumped to get using it. It's main focus will be on family kind of stuff. For work I use Blackmagic, so I'm a little overwhelmed with the menus and settings etc. - Does anyone have a good setup guide to get me started? I'm fairly sure I want to shoot with Eterna, but I'm happy to be swayed into the many other options. My starting point from what I can see is : h265 Long GOP Eterna DR100 Highlight 0 Shadow 0 Color 0 Sharpness -4 NR -4 Interframe NR - Off Peripheral Light Correction - Off (What even is that) Then for video AF - I assume constant and face tracking? Any help and hints are greatly appreciated!