BTM_Pix

You'll need to open it up to all former members of the Warsaw Pact now.

Getting the cellular upload bandwidth to file the videos impressed me more ! The original series of the same guys from 2008 is an interesting insight into how the camera technology moved on in the intervening decade or so.

As I say, for what I would be using it for, the AF performance would be moot for me - at least until more affordable L mount lenses show up - but yes I would be hoping that Sigma will have moved it on performance wise from the SD Quattro !

Lack of EVF and mechanical shutter won't do it any favours and no wifi/bluetooth connectivity will be a drawback. Set against that from my own personal point of view though is that, as with the Leica T/CL, the L mount cameras are great platforms for M lenses. With offerings from Voigtlander and particularly 7Artisans offering fast and compact M mount lenses, the FP will make a great combination as the overall form factor will be smaller even than the diminutive Leica CL despite it being full frame versus APS-C.

Yep, to say I have buyer's remorse about that WD is a bit of an understatement but I can't say you didn't warn me!

Unless there have been firmware updates for the other manufacturer's adapters that specifically enable it, it is only the Metabones adapters that have any type of focus control from the Pocket4K.

The cables are purely for remotely start/stopping the recording on the camera. The Pocket4K doesn't have that capability. The focus control on the EF lens is done between the controller and the mount adapter so should just work. If the aperture control is working then that proves its communicating with the lens. At the risk of sounding completely patronising, make sure the switch on the lens is set to AF though

This would be a good resource to find out from I think. He does proper conversions so you could have yours done without having to scour for a pre-converted lens. http://aiconversions.com/index.html I'd also ask Leitax the question that if you do get it converted would it then be possible to use their conversion kit. If they say it is then I'd be tempted to ask the converter guy the question if you buy the Leitax kit could you send it to him and he does the whole job for you ? Other than that, I guess you'd have to find one of these typical non-ai conversion experts to see what they think

Thats what I said. In 1981.

Yes. The Lens Regain does smart things but remains a dumb adapter at the camera end as all of its electronics are external. If you look at the rear of it, you will see a void where the lens contacts wold be on an MFT lens so there is no connection at all with the camera electronics.

I'd be inclined to splash out the extra few quid and get this type of one which also has an aperture control lever so you can use it with G type lenses as well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gobe-Lens-Adapter-Compatible-F-mount/dp/B07587RDCP

They refer to it on the spec sheet as "approx. 1.5 times". It caused enough confusion at the announcement that I would have thought they'd have clarified it in a new sheet but they've even left the "clop" part of it on so I guess not!

I can't speak for anybody else but I'm certainly not saying that. The "Crop" reference is in the stills section, not the Movie Recording section. The figures in brackets after each primary resolution such as this : Are indicating what the resolution will be in crop mode if use an APS-C lens (which Sigma refer to as DC lenses for their own brand) hence this indicator at the top of the listings. An unfortunate translation with "DC Clop Mode" as it should of course read "DC Crop Mode". If you look at the spec for their SD Quattro H, they illustrate this a bit more clearly as its on a separate tab but if you open both you will see the same process, albeit with a smaller reduction as it is not being based on a FF sensor as the SD Quattro H is an APS-H.

It has a crop feature that is clumsily positioned in their spec sheet above the video specs to give that impression but it actually refers to it auto-detecting APS-C L mount lenses from Leica and Sigma's own upcoming ones.

Yep, because you wouldn't want to risk any of it being out of focus.

It very much depends on what you're developing it on but I'm guessing in the context of what this will be used for that some artefacts would be acceptable to achieve the real time aspect of it?

Fuji XH-1 as well.

Its doable with something custom written. You record the incoming audio to files in increasing time chunks depending on the slow down percentage that you want, to take into account the time it will take to play them back. So for example, lets take a half speed playback scenario. The incoming audio (FILE 1) would be written to a file after the first 0.5 seconds and the playback of that file would begin immediately when its finished writing but at half speed. Simultaneously, the still incoming audio would immediately start writing to a new file (FILE 2) which would need to be of sufficient length to cover the length of time the playback will take to complete the first file before it is ready to play this new file. As our first file is 0.5 seconds, it will take 1 second to playback at half speed so our new file (FILE 2) will need to be 1 second long and this will immediately begin playing upon completion whereupon we begin recording another new file. This file (FILE 2) will take 2 seconds to play back at half speed so our next file (FILE 3) will need to be 2 seconds long. As this will take 4 seconds to complete playback at half speed our next file (FILE 4) will need to be 8 seconds long. And so on and so on. I've done you a spreadsheet illustration Depending on what you are going to run it on and how long the piece is you could do this in memory of course with buffers instead of writing to files. The audio of course will be playing back at half pitch as well as half speed but there are enough affordable hardware solutions out there nowadays to take care of that.

I don't want to put his name in case people googling him end up here ! If you put "Nikon 50mm 1.4 K Non-Ai to Ai Conversion" in YouTube you'll find him. Tune in next week for "3D pop from Zeiss lenses - is it a myth?" with your host Ted Bundy.

Yeah, so this is weird. I was going to say that I'm pretty sure people have modded them to be ai and that would one way forward and that I'd found you a tutorial video on YouTube of a guy doing it. So, I was idly reading the comments, as you do, and lots of people were commenting about him being a murderer and I was thinking "well its an old lens and I can see why people might think its heresy to be messing with it but calling him a murderer is a bit over the top but hey this is YouTube so...". Anyway, curiosity got the better of me and I googled his name and it turns out he's an actual serial killer.

I don't mind them either and I think if you're going for a set then it makes a lot of sense, particularly as if you do end up using a follow focus system then it is far easier with having them all aligned. Yeah, if you don't want to speedboost them (and they are arguably fast enough and have decent enough wide options to not especially need to) then you can use the lens throttle and again, if you go for F mount stills versions, then you can use a very thin F to EF adapter on to it to get click less aperture control of the lens and variable ND behind it. The only downside to the lens throttles is that there is no fully clear setting so you'll always have some ND in play which may be an issue in very low light but, again, these lenses are fast enough to mitigate it somewhat. Yes, Auto SS and Auto ISO would still work.

Haha...yes, ignore all that bollocks that I wrote in my last post @kye and buy F mount stills versions as this option is indeed the best way to have your cake and eat it regarding the smooth aperture and retaining the focus grip if you are going to be using them on a non Nikon body. Just set the aperture to minimum and you will then have a de-clicked smooth aperture control. The only caveat is that most of them don't have a scale so it'll be purely manual by eye on the camera exposure meter regarding exposure.

Which the path of least resistance to achieve (if you don't want to open the lens up) is through getting the Cine DS version and adding something on to the teeth to make it easier to hand focus. The grips I linked to can have the gear belt reversed like I've done here to my 14mm to illustrate for you (though obviously trim the end unlike I've done here). If you don't want to use the lever (although it is actually operationally not horrendous to be fair) then you can just use a regular gear belt reversed to give you a grip. To be honest, the gear teeth themselves are not really that bad and there is enough space between the focus ring one at least to fashion a grip with some rubber grip tape. But yeah, if you don't mind opening the lens up (and listening to Guns&Roses while doing it if that video is anything to go by), then de-clicking a stills one might be the way to go and you can certainly save a few quid going that route too.

Nope. Once the app is in the Play Store, all of that stuff is taken care of by your phone's OS so its possible your phone had an update that maybe didn't sync all the apps? Google made some changes to the icon specs recently which may also have caused it but I haven't heard any other reports.

The Cine DS line are de-clicked. If you don't want to use a follow focus system then these are a cheap low tech option. They are under £10 for a pair https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Follow-Focus-Notched-Rubber/dp/B07CVBNTHG I'd get EF as you can then have the option of using it on a Speedbooster on your GH5.