Justin Bacle

Just found this on "le bon coin" (french equivalent of craigslist) : https://www.leboncoin.fr/image_son/1027356839.htm?ca=18_s

It is labelled as a "Universcope 16" from "André Fougerat" made in France
From what I gathered on the web, it looks like a "Dyaliscope 16"

Does someone knows something about this adapter ? Is it worth considering, and at what price (as the seller is asking to "make an offer") ?

I can try to get it for cheap and add data to our lens-yclopedia for contribution, if this lens is untested as of today.

3 minutes ago, Dr. Verbel' said:

Hmmm... You must unscrew this first

 

Okay I'll try this evening

2 minutes ago, Dr. Verbel' said:

Yes. Only side screw, which lock front ring. Then unscrew counterclockwise ring and all, finita la commedia!

Man I didn't see a side screw on the front. I must be blind :D

16 minutes ago, Dr. Verbel' said:

Hmmmm... man with the same 35nap 2-3 told me, that he easy unscrew back ring. he unscrew counterclockwise internal ring and pulled back the lens...  Is a side screws on the body?.. Maybe he tell something wrong with which ring unscrewing, internal or external, but now he make construction as my with his removed lenses :-) Do you got front lens?

 

The front ring should come easily too ? No tiny locking screws ?
My LOMO is certainly very hard to unscrew then, because I can't unscrew the front neither :s

On jeudi 6 octobre 2016 at 6:34 PM, Dr. Verbel' said:

Justin Bacle, do you have the same 35nap 2-3m, as on photo? I'm interested, which logo on it (on the left side). Different factories in USSR produce these lenses with same name 35nap 2-3m. Little differences in body construction.

Do you saw small hole on the frame's side? small screw lock big nut.

Okay, thanks for all the precious information.

Here are photos of mine : https://goo.gl/photos/eNyhafsjAgYWX3ac8

I did remove the tiny screws (3 of them) from the back, to unlock the back ring. No matter how hard I tried to unscrew it, I cannot unscrew the back ring. I did put some WD-40 on the theads yesterday, so I might have a bit more luck this evening ... but I'm not feeling confident about it :s

On vendredi 7 octobre 2016 at 3:22 PM, Dr. Verbel' said:

If I'm not mistaken, you have 35nap 2-3, LOMO version. Construction of body must be similar to 35nap 2-4 (also LOMO version). Must be small hole on the frame's side, in which small screw lock big nut.

As you can see, there was so much tape on mine that I didn't even noticed the retaining screws on the back :D

7 hours ago, squig said:

Transcend cards are slow. The Lexar 1066x is the fastest.

The 5D has more detail, more DR, better color, and less noise than the BMMCC/Pocket.

I have a Lexar 1066x 64Gb, and it's quite crappy. I get filesystem errors and the card sometimes stops writing for no apparent reason. I'll buy a KB card ASAP.
So far, I'm not impressed, at all, with the lexar card.

Get a 50D, you get a nice raw Super 35 camera for €250 and you can keep your BMPCC (which is great for using it with legacy C-mount lenses )

Editing FullHD 1080p H264 AVCHD with a Color Correction LUT and a Grading LUT (on premiere CC) on my i7 4790k with 16Gigs of ram is not pleasant.
So I'm pretty sure it'll lag quite a bit more if you don't transcode it :s

14 hours ago, dontthroworanges said:

Looking for the following info:

ISCO Ultra-Star Plus Front Clamp Diameter - 77mm or 72mm?

Think I figured it out based on RafCamera site.- http://www.rafcamera.com/en/adapter-d70-to-m72x0-75

I would like to use the 72mm version of the Rangefinder to keep the cost and size down. Thoughts on 77mm vs 72mm?

The 72mm SLR Magic Rangefinder version w/o marking is not produced anymore (as confirmed by email discussion with them). Which is a pain. I'll have to go with the Rectilux then (which is a better product for sure, but at a stiffer price).

On lundi 3 octobre 2016 at 1:56 PM, Justin Bacle said:

On the Ultrastar, you can go as wide as 40mm if you shoot in 1.2:1 (to get 2.4:1 final ratio).
I am currently trying to use the 50D + Ultrastar setup with a Mir 1B 37/2.8. I am waiting for the 49 to 62 step up ring as i am currently stacking multiple step ups (hence the vignetting)

Update on that, 37mm is still a bit too wide for shooting without vignetting. the sweet spot seems to be around 42mm
45mm is good (tested with a minolta 45/2 and a 40-80 pentax zoom)
40mm shows tiny dark corners, which make me think it might be good or not depending on the taking lens' design.

15 hours ago, Dr. Verbel' said:

Justin Bacle, do you have the same 35nap 2-3m, as on photo? I'm interested, which logo on it (on the left side). Different factories in USSR produce these lenses with same name 35nap 2-3m. Little differences in body construction.

Do you saw small hole on the frame's side? small screw lock big nut.

Mine doesn't look exactly the same :s

I am quite busy with shooting a music video this week-end but i'll send you photos asap

pick a set of old lenses : Minoltas, Russian M42 lenses, Konicas, Fuji AX, Contax, Canon FDs, ... and the convenient adapter and you'll be able to get a 35,50,85 set for less than 200€  
(I use minoltas on my mirorless and russian lenses on my dslr myself) 

Any information about what you plan to shoot would be helpfull to help you btw

22 minutes ago, Phil A said:

The Micro Studio has only like 7 stops of DR and it's directly in Rec709. Saw some youtube vids which had beautiful colors but basically every highlight is blown.

Is the XAVC-L of the Sony FS5 actually any different from the XAVC-S of the A series? It's obviously nothing like the XAVC-I of the FS7.

Oh, I didn't know that the BM micro Studio had such a low DR. Thanks for the info

What about a JVC LS300 (Super35 4K) or a BlackMagic Micro studio Camera (S16 but 4k if an external recorder is ok for you ?) ? Is the GH4 an option ?

1 hour ago, Dr. Verbel' said:

I have lens spanner. not strong for tight nut, but if on slightly choppy to unwind, you can unscrew

Okay, thanks for the tip. Mine is super tight :s I'll have to find a way to unscrew it.

May sound like a stupid question, but how did you disassemble yours ? Mine is so tight I can't open it :s
You start from the back lens right ? 

On 9/29/2016 at 4:40 AM, Dustin said:

I don't know a ton about anamorphic but that second one to me looks amazing. Classic even!

Thank you so much

BTW, I also received the Mir 1-B 37/2.8 ! YAY !

On the Ultrastar, you can go as wide as 40mm if you shoot in 1.2:1 (to get 2.4:1 final ratio).
I am currently trying to use the 50D + Ultrastar setup with a Mir 1B 37/2.8. I am waiting for the 49 to 62 step up ring as i am currently stacking multiple step ups (hence the vignetting)

This looks great ! These flares are Epic !
Is focusing easy enough ?

Is there any chance you could share the 3d files for 3D printing so that I can use it as a base design for mine (after verifying dimensions) ?

well, that is very impressive !
I think I'll try and do something similar with mine

On 9/23/2016 at 6:42 PM, AaronChicago said:

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I'm testing the Rangefinder this week with a Takumar 50mm and Singer 16D. One thing I noticed is that when comparing the RF on and off, it really distorts the background vertically, through the RF. It's not subtle either. When the rangefinder is off the image is pleasant and looks like typical anamorphic distortion, but when the RF is on it's like I stretched everything vertically. Is that just a characteristic of the RF?

can you share images, I'm not sure I can imagine how much disstortion you're talking about :s

As I can't find a way to edit the first post... 

Just received the Jupiter-9 (I wrote Industar-9 in the first post, but that was a mistake). So far, I am not very impressed but i'll have to try it in daylight on full frame 

8 hours ago, IronFilm said:

Maybe it was about the original Xiaomi Yi action camera ? 

I know the original Yi cam and its hacks very well as I have one (it is a great little camera, just too bad the battery is so small though) 
I'll try and find it again :finger-crossed:

10 hours ago, IronFilm said:

The 4K action camera has been hacked too? AWESOME!!!

 

What is new to it?

I remember seeing a forum post for increasing bitrate with a hack, but I cannot find it again :s

6 hours ago, Liam said:

Those are freaking beautiful videos

Thank you so much

Just wanted to share my anamorphic experiences on the forum in one topic for simplicity.

For now I have been using :
- 50D (MLRAW in 1280 x 1058 for 1.2:1 aspect ratio)
- ISCO UltraStar (gold one with 1.5m minimum focus) w/ RafCamera Clamp
- Helios 44-2 58/2 - Practika 135/2.8 (Industar-9 and Mir-1B are coming soon)

Next items to buy IMO are : 
- New clamps (front and rear) as I don't like the tiny tiny screws that come with the RAF adapter and would like my clamps to be tool-less
- SLR Magic rangefinder for rack-focusing ability

Workflow is the following (whilst I don't find a more efficient way) :
- MLVFS -> AfterEffects (CameraRaw & VisionLog) -> Premiere (dynamic link) & Lumetri -> DNxHD 4:4:4 10bit Export

 As I have no front clamp (yet), everything is shot without ND filter. Which is not a problem atm as I love the super16 look you get in sunny days
The second video was the first time I really got to shoot at night, I have to say I enjoyed it a lot
A few shots are misaligned and I saw it on the computer :s The screen of the 50D is just too tiny shooting 1.2:1 with in camera desqueeze to notice it whilst shooting)

If you have advices, please do not hesitate to tell me, I'd love to hear them