Fredrik Lyhne

Seems like they removed that video showing how to swap the motor side, kind of silly if it doesnt work as its in all their marketing materials, why do these companies insist on putting the motor on the wrong side!
DS1 is still looking good..

I don't understand why none of these one handed ones have the motor on the right so you can flip out the screens.

Update on the H2!
First off all, the unit I received was not working straight out of the box as advertised. I don't know if was unlucky as I got one of the first shipments, 28th March. Unfortunately support was limited to short sentences and the fix was not very intuitive, at least for a Mac user. 
Here's how I got my unit working:
1. The USB cable that came with the product was not recognized by my Mac or my friends PC. We unscrewed the handle and tried another cable (the lock-ring on the handle is blocking the USB-entrance so you're supposed to use the the supplied cable which is a bit longer). 
2. We managed to establish a connection with a PC and update the firmware as described in Team Pilotfly's video, see Cinegain's latest post. Note that you need a PC to update the firmware, doesn't work with mac.
3. After the firmware was updated I mounted the handle and tried to connect with the supplied USB cable to my mac, and it worked. Go figure!? It's also possible to adjust the settings via USB to Mac or via Bluetooth, but you need a freaking PC to update the firmware!! I adjusted the settings as described in the video. 
I haven't tested the unit outside yet, but it seems to be working as it should. It's exhausted from trial and error and is charging right now. I will post some tests later today or tomorrow.
 
Vari-angle screen mode for GH4 etc
1. IMO the unit is not designed to have the motor on the right to make space for a vari-angle screen but it is possible according to Pilotfly.
2. Only problem is that it's not working for me and at least one other commenter on the video that describes the procedure! The motors are working to hard causing heavy shakes, rolling shutter and noise. 
3. Home mode doesn't work, and they haven't said anything about whether they are working on a solution or not. 
4. The extra safety pin on the baseplate/cameraplate is not compatible in this mode so make sure to tighten the srew. (Not a big deal)
 
The last thing is that you can hear the motors buzzing (in a quiet room) when they're compensating for movement. I don't know if this is normal for all of these devices?  
Footage coming soon! hopefully...

Update on the H2!
First off all, the unit I received was not working straight out of the box as advertised. I don't know if was unlucky as I got one of the first shipments, 28th March. Unfortunately support was limited to short sentences and the fix was not very intuitive, at least for a Mac user. 
Here's how I got my unit working:
1. The USB cable that came with the product was not recognized by my Mac or my friends PC. We unscrewed the handle and tried another cable (the lock-ring on the handle is blocking the USB-entrance so you're supposed to use the the supplied cable which is a bit longer). 
2. We managed to establish a connection with a PC and update the firmware as described in Team Pilotfly's video, see Cinegain's latest post. Note that you need a PC to update the firmware, doesn't work with mac.
3. After the firmware was updated I mounted the handle and tried to connect with the supplied USB cable to my mac, and it worked. Go figure!? It's also possible to adjust the settings via USB to Mac or via Bluetooth, but you need a freaking PC to update the firmware!! I adjusted the settings as described in the video. 
I haven't tested the unit outside yet, but it seems to be working as it should. It's exhausted from trial and error and is charging right now. I will post some tests later today or tomorrow.
 
Vari-angle screen mode for GH4 etc
1. IMO the unit is not designed to have the motor on the right to make space for a vari-angle screen but it is possible according to Pilotfly.
2. Only problem is that it's not working for me and at least one other commenter on the video that describes the procedure! The motors are working to hard causing heavy shakes, rolling shutter and noise. 
3. Home mode doesn't work, and they haven't said anything about whether they are working on a solution or not. 
4. The extra safety pin on the baseplate/cameraplate is not compatible in this mode so make sure to tighten the srew. (Not a big deal)
 
The last thing is that you can hear the motors buzzing (in a quiet room) when they're compensating for movement. I don't know if this is normal for all of these devices?  
Footage coming soon! hopefully...

I see they have another YT-channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTfbWPH2Mb0uV3WfjGcYLMg (via their EU Support page). With e.g.
 
So I take it you have both the GH3 and GH4? Then I would just swap out the GH3 for one GX80/85. The 5-axis B.I.S. or Dual IS even is worth some of the trade-offs, but you wouldn't want to lose the options the GH4 provides... so keep that one around a little longer until the GH5 arrives. Yeah, that has got to be a sick camera! It has to surpass the GH4, GX85, BMMCC and A6300, so on the one hand I like they're taking their time, hopefully it will be all we need it to be and more. Definitly worth to wait and see what it will be about. I'm probably going to sell off my D5300 and get the GX80 instead, but it will be rough losing the 24MP APS-C option for stills, especially the Nikon color and organic rendering too. Still though, in-body stabilization is a great tool, but a different one than a gimbal stabilizer is. So, I think getting it to work or getting a replacement is still the better option than calling it quits. Unless you just wanted steady footage, rather than adding fluid motion to shots... but you're right, the GX80 looks rather compelling, but I thought the same about the A6300 at first... and finally didn't end up getting that one either. Time will tell. Anyways. Good luck!

Thanks! I balanced it watching a video from Cheesycam with H1 and another one from Pilotfly. It's supposed to be a 2-minute balance so I don't think that's the problem. Hopefully I can get it sorted with the update today. If not then it's probably a faulty unit and I have to send it back. 
I think they buy the 32 bit boards from Basecam Electronics who also makes the software. They don't have IOS app either, only Android. I agree that's very weird they don't support Apple products. 
I actually considered sending it back, selling my GH3/GH4 and getting 2 GX85. The image in 4K is probably better, but I'm not sure it's worth loosing Cine profiles, slow motion, vari-angle screen, batterylife, etc. I haven't seen any info on the crop either. As I said earlier I think the GH5 is gonna rock, so it's probably best to wait another 6 months!

Sorry to hear that! That kinda blows!
I do believe Dave had the same issue and only managed to get it right after they showed him exactly how to balance the camera. But I take it, you've already got that down. I hope firmware can fix it! I hope, because the shipment had to come all the way from across the world, that nothing happened during transport leading to this outcome. Either way... it sucks. Atleast I guess I'm glad they're responding promptly, although, it should've just worked with a Mac, I take it that's roughly what 70% of the people getting these are using (PC myself though)?
I hope you can work it out and able to start playing around with it soon. Fingers crossed!

I just ended up selling my (unused) Beholder DS1 on Ebay.  After joining the Beholder Facebook group, I realised that all the necessary tweaking wasn't for me due to lack of time and it is also one more thing to carry around.  I think I'll rely on my E-M5II (and maybe the new Gx80) for stabilisation for now and look at the DJI Osmo if I need something for more dynamic movement.

I received my Pilotfly H2 yesterday but unfortunately there's not much to report because I haven't got it working properly yet. I balanced it and it seemed to be ok, but when I started it the motors were working heavily causing severe rolling shutter and unusable footage. After trying different lenses and setups waiting for customer support they told me it could be the old firmware. 
After installing USB driver, the Android app and Mac software which need to be activated via terminal it turns out the upgrade doesn't work on Mac. Then I was told to download Parallell to run Windows. So I did that but I obviously don't have a Windows license as a Mac user so that's not exactly helpful either. 
I have to borrow a Windows PC and see if I get get it working. 
In my last email I told them that I still believe it's a good product but I am really disappointed it doesn't work out of the box, as advertised. 
They told I could return it and get my money back...
 

Just searched for a Minolta 35/1.8 (I only have the 35/2.8 yet :s) and fond that the minoltas MD lenses are going cheaper and cheaper :O

Minolta MD 50/1.4 : 60€, which is very very very reasonable IMO 
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Objectif-Minolta-50mm-f-1-4-MD-ROKKOR-1-1-4-/252344490621?hash=item3ac0e75a7d:g:z9YAAOSwdU1W9lHL
MInolta MD 28/2.8 (only have the 28/3.5 myself ....) : 42€, reasonable too 
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/28-mm-1-2-8-Minolta-MD-Rokkor-/172165384575?hash=item2815db497f:g:W3AAAOSwSzdXDPZj
Minolta MD 135/2.8 : 55€, which is a great compact telephoto/portrait lens
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Minolta-MD-Rokkor-1-2-8-135-/131775607947?hash=item1eae70348b:g:4xEAAOSwr7ZW4Fwi
There are also quite a lot of 35-70/3.5 which are known to be very good lenses for video around 40€
As a bonus, there is a cute 45/2 pancake which usually goes for 50€ in auction
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/vintage-Minolta-MD-ROKKOR-45-mm-45mm-F-2-PANCAKE-LENS-/281999659321?hash=item41a87d5139:g:oLAAAOSwoudW8WdD
Anyway, This jut motivated me to do a full review of my Minolta lenses. As it is quite difficult to find complete reviews on the web for minolta lenses with video.
I'll set up a scene this weekend and compare all my lenses. Results to come :p

I think everyone would want to use the Sigma... I'm just afraid it will push the possibilities weight & balance wise... you can shift the center of gravity only back so far... the question has been asked on their FB a couple of times and not sure anyone got a reply on that confirming or denying the compatibility.
True, I think it's just not of importance to Dave, since he likes his set-up small and not attracting too much attention. But yeah, it would be worth to atleast mention. Exciting you'll be getting yours soon, saw they were a little overwhelmed with how well this is received and are trying as hard as possible to meet demand but can't avoid 3-4 weeks delays for some.
Yeah, that's pretty typical Chinese practices unfortunately, I recommend sticking around on their Facebook to ask questions. Dave mentioned contact through Yanherlin is pretty good, just know that he uses his channel and Gmail userhandle (yanherlin at gmail) for Pilotfly: https://www.youtube.com/user/Yanherlin ). Thought they had a set-up video, but I guess I'm mistaken. I guess you could kinda figure what Yoshihide is doing here:
-- they now also feature a drone-capable version of the H2, with 2nd arm (no open side) and lockdown mode bracket called the T1... (click img > 'Full size')

-- FB info regarding GH4 + Sigma 18-35mm compatibility update:
 

Strange that he didnt mention the 2-hand handle which I think is one of the most important features. Not only for stability when running and walking but also for fatique. 
There might be an updated version of H1+ soon also so if youre not in a hurry... I will getting mine next week so if there is anything you want to know thats not been mentioned by reviewers just let me know. 

Ooh, I'm always curious about what Dave thinks, especially since he likes small set-ups like me.
 

If you cant get decent skintones out of G7 or GH4 with Neutral or Cine D + Leeming Lut its not the cameras fault. 

Do you take many stills on a professional level?  Do you not mind the h.265 codec, along with it's macroblocking artifacts and slightly limited ability to push in grade?  Then the NX1 will perform will excellence.  It has better rec709 colors popping right out the cam moreso than the G7.  'S' lenses are great to use.  S35 sensor off the bat.  Currently it's resolution is king.  Use some kind of filter that can diffuse the image and cut down on the in-camera sharpening.
OTHERWISE
I'd say get the G7 and speedbooster.  Options for lenses are overwhelming, considering the m43 native mount alongside all the speedbooster mounts.  Codec holds up well when pushing the grade if you expose right and get white balance spot on! Getting rid of this 'plastic' yellow/green cast and skintone look I keep hearing about can be dealt with in seconds.  Also mostly avoidable with proper white balance.  But it's hard to save h.265 footage with strange milky blacks and limited color info coming from the NX1.
 
TBH same goes for most cameras talked about on this forum even Sony.  But again, as mentioned earlier, which one is a breeze to shoot with and get you the results you need?  This is subjective.  I'd say both cams are excellent in handle and usability.  But in post, I'd feel more comfortable working with the h.264 panny files.

If you cant get decent skintones out of G7 or GH4 with Neutral or Cine D + Leeming Lut its not the cameras fault. 

I first think of what I am planning to go and shoot, then I pick the one that's most suitable. Say, you want a crashcam, great: the C-mount APS-C one it is. Good for quirky character too, like the Zonlai or the Zhongyi/ZY Optics (with a bit nervous bokeh and weird purple flares). Want some smooth 'n chill bokehliciousness and/or lowlight? The SLR Magic will get you a long way. More serious stuff with rigging? The Veydras (yeah, I know they are overkill, but I jumped on their Kickstarter campaign as I figured these would be a great investment and asset to me in the future). They're especially nice for consistent results. Contax Zeiss if you want more of a look straight out of the lens, but also with some serious quality to 'em (w/ Zhongyi Lens Turbo II EF - M43 with K&F Concept C/Y - EF adapter). The Lumix one for electronic control, so more for stills/hybrid than purely video. So yeah, to me there's really something to say for each, they all render and handle differently. But yeah, sometimes it can be nice to just go out and shoot with the fixed set-up LX100 as well.

I'm a Panasonic user and have worked with NX1 footage in Resolve. It's honestly not a big gulf. 

With the support gear you have, you could honestly go either way. Is it possible for you to get hands on a G7 and see if you like it?

Panasonic g7 with speed booster metabones Xl , superb camera and you can get the colours right all in camera it is a very powerful camera with its internal colour processing , you can get away with not grading , I have four of these camera they are that good

Heard about Panasonic coming out with a new wide angle, unfortunately it seems it will be 12mm. Too bad wider is a little exotic. I do like the Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO, but it comes at a price and it doesn't have a filterthread so you'd have to find a third party solution. The SLR Magic 10mm sounds good though!

Ultra wide is defined as anything wider than 24mm, so it kinda is. 

The SLR Magic 10mm is a FANTASTIC lens. In fact, the whole lineup gets my highest recommendation--and those of you who know me know I'm picky about my glass.

Yeah, it's a team effort. You've got to be a crouching tiger, you can't just bounce up 'n down like that and expect tech to compensate for your lack of understanding, skill and finesse.
That said. I do believe here the puzzle pieces fall together quite nicely with this one to the point I'd finally be comfortable getting one. I bet you'd be getting nice motion after a single week, opposed to months or more with a traditional mechanical stabilizer. That is... if you're willing to work with the gimbal stabilizer opposed to the mindset where you'd expect it to do the job for you.

I believe 400 is the native ISO

He's mentioned that earlier in the topic, he's in Norway, so he's got import duties to worry about either way, since Norway is outside of the European free trade zone. Then it actually makes more sense to pay for it with USD which currency converted is the more attractive option for him.
For EU countries within the European free trade zone the currency on copter-rc only 'appears' to be the cheaper option (EUR price from the German store is same as USD price from the Intl store (both 998), yet the conversion rate is 1.00 EUR =1.11794 USD (so the EUR price would be more like 892.75 EUR than 998 EUR, but I think that that added 100 bucks fairly go to European stockage, handling and franchise fees anyways)), but there you'd have the almost certain risk of import charges which would blow the price over the pilotfly.de price (VAT alone, +20% ~ 200 EUR (excl. add. logistical/administrative costs and possible customs fees (could be around 5%, haven't looked it up)). For those within the European free trade zone therefor it would make sense to buy it from them through their German office.

I'm not sure there's is a massive difference. Other than battery life and payload, the H2 has encoders. For me the H2 was just a little bit more expensive due to free shipping and expensive shipping on the DS1 (to Norway). The H2 just seems a little bit more refined with all the right features (for me), but maybe the biggest reason I ordered one was the optional 2-hand handle. The DS1 seems like a great option though.
I guess we know more when Dave Dugdales' review is out, or any one else for that matter. Shipping started yesterday so we will have more answers soon...
The new models are coming so fast since the Nebula 4000, so my advice would be too not buy unless you feel the price and features are right (obviously!). 
Also the H2 is for DSLR's so there's probably gonna be a smaller (cheaper?) version within the next 6 months... who knows!