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ken

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Posts posted by ken

  1. Hey guys, Im looking for a University but cant find any info in chineese.

    Anybody know a forum I could visit? 

     

    ;)

    I think the spams are kind of virus infection.  Typing won't produce so fast.  This forum was hacked.

  2. Haven't tried it myself but always imagined a taking lens with a 1.5x oval aperture + a 1.33x anamorphic might be a good combo for simulating 2x bokeh and flaring without losing too much sensor real estate in achieving a 2.39:1 frame. For example a DSO FF58 with 1.5x oval aperture and an SLR Magic 1.33x Anamorphot might be an interesting set.

    Pretty sure my math checks out:

    100% image width / 1.5 = 67%

    67% / 1.33 = 50%

    50% = 2x horizontal squeeze

    I think you can try other way.  Just stack two front grass together, and rear glass together.   Then the total ana lens won't be so long.  :) 

  3. Best to just photograph a perfect circle that has horizontal and vertical lines intersecting at the middle of it from various distances away.  Then unsqueeze at say 1.8x, 1.9x and 2x and compare until you see a perfectly round circle, that will be the squeeze factor.

    I have an Isco Ultra Star that is labelled as 2x but after testing it this way myself I found it to be 1.8x.

    To me, all 2x lenses are always 2x if focus distance far enough.   I think the reason is mounted, not closed enough.  Here is an sample taken by ISCO's integrated projector lens.

    https://flic.kr/p/qqGzkQ

     

  4. Usually, I think above 10m can be treated as 2x.  Closer focus will reduce the ratio.  Closest 5f/1.5m is about 1.85x, IMO.  Also, center part is less ratio then left/right edge.  There is always some distortion. 

  5. I see,

     

    Very complex thing. Need perfect distance with rear attachment and prime to the front one or astigmatism comes as hell.

    There are other way: Fix the taking lens to the rear ANA and make a mechanism that the block move in-out of the camera. This is how anamorphic Lomo primes works.

    Still very complex because the taking lens only need move a few mm from the sensor (Lomo´s focus ring have a pin that make this little move to the spherical block), and the cylindrical rear lens need move too much. 

     

    good luck

    This way is suitable for FF system.  For most of anamorphic lens on FF, around 100mm is best focal length without vignetting.  And 100mm's prime lens focusing moving distance is about 10~15mm, basically equals to anamorphic lens moving distance from 1.5m to infinity.  Also only external focus lens can be used.  The advance internal focus lens cannot.

  6. I can provide you infos about Elmo II if you need.

    I agree housing of 8Z / B&H is different, and rear sizes too. But I guess that's all. According to Andrew Reid "The Bell and Howell anamorphic by Kowa, then, is a Kowa Prominar in a sleeker chassis." ( http://www.eoshd.com/2011/02/kowa-anamorphic-lens-review/ )

    That's an interesting triangle we have here: Elmo has same rear size as 8z/16h but looks like a B&H. B&H is lighter and wider than 8z/16h. 8z/16h is more common but cheaper with similar optical results (I guess but I'm not sure). Elmo and B&H are supposed to have more drastic glass tests than 8z/16h.

    What do you think about it?

    My understanding is they are all share the same optics from the sizes told.   The difference might be coatings.

  7. 16h on FF max wide prime lens can be used is 75mm.  I think 50mm is only in crop mode.

    IMO, to get widest, must use 1.33X.  On iPhone 5s lens, 30mm original equivalent FL, gets 22.5mm wide angle using moondog.

  8. Good idea to glue adapter right on the lens! I never would have thought of that.

    Do you have a link where I might find the ring?

    All rings are available from eBay, step up or down one should work.  The glue is better to use hot melt glue, getting it with the gun from digikey.  That way you can easily remove it.

     

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