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Everything posted by essbe

  1. If you are based in the EU I have an EF-mount Zhong Yi lens turbo II (speed booster clone without electronics) that I could sell for 60€. In any case if you're just planning to use m42-lenses it would be cheapest to use a RJ/Jinfinance or Zhong Yi lens turbo, as you don't need any electronics in there. They are both good, supposedly more or less on par with metabones, just check reviews on the internet. In my experience the various speed boosters all work well on m4/3 as the corners are much better on those sensors than on aps-c. The only one I've tested that has been significantly worse than the others is the Kipon Baveyes.
  2. Pride drop. 450€ including shipping and paypal fees.
  3. OKC6-75-1, the last iteration of the 75mm f2 LOMO cine lens. This one is remounted to m42 (in what looks to be a Helios-44m-4 barrel) and is in good condition. The glass has some light cleaning marks, but no fungus etc. Aperture and focus rings turn smoothly. It does not protrude in the rear, so it can be mounted on everything where you can mount an m42-adapter, and it covers photographic full frame. Selling only within the EU. Asking price 500€ including shipping.
  4. Minoltas last and Sonys first fullframe flagship without livew view or movie mode, but with a beautiful viewfinder. This camera has the Sony M-type matte screen installed which makes manual focusing much easier since it displays the true depth of field on apertures larger than f2.8 (which standard dslr matte screens do not). I have mostly used it with m42 glass. In my opinion it is the best camera for this, not only because of the viewfinder, but also since there are no problems with mirror clearance when using for example Mir-1 and early versions of Helios-44. The m42 adapter for the Alpha mount is also very easy to use. The camera is quite worn, but fully functional. The shutter has done 30k actuations, and should last a minimum of 100k. Included is the original box, all original accessories, as well as a third party flash, battery grip and battery. I will also include two m42 adapters. Overall a nice camera for photography, especially when using manual focus. The sensor is not as good in low light as the more recent sensors from Sony, but in my opinion it has much nicer colour reproduction. Selling only within the EU. Asking price 500€ +shipping and paypal fees if not using bank transfer.
  5. I think the measurement for the a99ii 4k refers to the super 35 mode, which makes it quite a bit faster than the a7rii, Samuel H (who added the figures) refers to the a99ii as much better than the a7rii in his post. Would be interesting to know the numbers for its FF 4k mode.
  6. Yes, just got home from a trip, so I have answered you now.
  7. Ok, lowering the price to 450€ before trying elsewhere.
  8. Selling my Cineroid 4RVW EVF (you can read about it here https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/894123-REG/Cineroid_EVF4RVW_with_Retina_Display.html). It is in used condition with some wear and scratches on the paint, but fully operational. The monitor has some superficial scratches as well, but they are not visible when the display is active. I've put some tape on the hinge (as you can see in the pictures) to increase the friction there. It works without it but it is tighter with the tape in place. It comes with an original Cineroid mini-XLR to D-tap, battery plates for Sony NP-F (this one is a bit damaged, but works without any problems) and Canon LP-E6, as well as two non-branded NP-F-batteries (F550 and F750) with a charger. Asking 400€ +shipping. Selling only within the EU.
  9. Managed to take some photos of the camera now. I'm selling it for 550 € +shipping.
  10. I am looking to sell my nx500. It comes with an unused kit lens, an L39-adapter, two batteries and an external charger. The camera has almost exclusively been used for video and is in good condition. It has Vasile's hack installed, which I have found easier to work with than NX-KS since the start up time is much shorter. The "dangerous" part of the hack is already done, you just have to put the nx-on wake folder (from the zip-file) on your sd card for it to activate (files and info here: https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/tree/master/nx-on-wake). Make me an offer if you are interested and, if I find the offer reasonable, I will send you pictures of the kit. The camera is located in Sweden and I am only shipping within the European Union.
  11. Why not use the nx500 in 2.5k mode? You benefit from the full aps-c sensor, get very low rolling shutter and (probably) no noise reduction. Sure, you have those strange lines across the screen that appear now and then, but I have not found them to be a problem. I'm using Vasile's hack and I see it in maybe 1% of the clips (more often with the NX-KS hack), and then I can get rid of it by selecting interlaced instead of progressive scan when transcoding, using the high setting in handbrake is usually enough as well.
  12. I have some spare medium format lenses in Pentacon 6 mount that I am looking to sell. There are cheap adapters available for pentacon 6 to mamiya 645 if you're looking to use them with the kipon speedbooster. You can also find tilt-, shift- and tilt-shift-adapters for reasonable prices on ebay for these lenses. First up is an Arsat C 80mm f2.8. It is a post Soviet production of the Volna-3 from the Arsenal plant in Kiev. Compared to the Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f2.8 I once had this one is a bit bigger and does not have as good build quality, it was however sharper wide open (compared to my copy of the Biometar, I've had only one, in my testing it was also sharper than my Volna-3 and Vega-12. I have another Arsat 80mm, and they have the same sharpness wide open )and has better minimum focusing distance at 0.6m, compared to 0.8m on the Biometar. No fungus or marks on the glass, easy to focus, aperture working as it should etc. I also have a Mir-38 65mm f3.5 from 1980. As you can see on the pictures I have grinded it a bit in the base, this was to make it fit my ARAX medium format camera. It now fits all pentacon 6 adapters without problems too. Glass without fungus etc, aperture is working fine and focusing is easy. I have some other lenses in the same mount as well, for example a Jupiter-36 250mm f3.5, that I could be willing to sell if anyone is interested. Asking 50 € +shipping for each lens. Selling only within the European Union.
  13. As the speedbooster reduces the focal length, you should probably put the new focal length (for example 0.71x50mm, or whatever combination you have of speedbooster and lens).
  14. Great work! How close can you focus using the elements from the 35NAP 2-3M?
  15. Really love this hack, enabling silent shutter mode was enough to make me happy, and it's wonderful to see it progress. A strange request perhaps but would it be possible to disable the automatic image flip/horizontal alignment of the display so we could have an upside down image when the camera is upside down? Would be useful for me, but probably not for anyone else.
  16. Hi! I am a big fan of this site and of this forum, but I have never felt the need to post myself. There is however one thing about these new speedboosters for the BM cameras that makes me curious. I hope I can write this in a way that makes it understandable, as I hardly understand it myself. It is regarding the question of f-stops, t-stops and pixel vignetting. So, I have a Metabones Speedbooster for Sony Nex and I bought it hoping that it would give me an extra stop of light (besides increase in field of view of course), and usually it does, but not at all f-stops. Pixel vignetting (as explained in this dxomark article http://www.dxomark.com/en/Reviews/F-stop-blues) seems to be causing light loss at digital sensors at wide apertures. This is something I have experienced myself when using the speedbooster (but it is not the speedboosters fault, it is the digital sensor). All of my lenses gain one full stop of light with the speedbooster up to and including f2.8. At f2 the lenses I have tested gain 1/2 to 1 stop (usually as much as that specific lens gains on that specific camera when going from f2-f1.4 without the booster). At f1.4 the speedbooster "only" gives me an increase of 1/3 of a stop compared to when I am using the lens at f1.4 without the booster. I have not tested any faster lenses than f1.4, but dpreview found something similar in their first impressions report (http://www.dpreview.com/articles/2667195592/first-impressions-metabones-speed-booster), and there should be even less of a gain when using lenses with maximum apertures of f1.2 or more (with or without speedbooster). Anyhow, this might not be true for the BMCC and the BMPCC as I guess they have a lower pixel density than digital photography cameras, and, on top of that, the speedbooster might not make the angle of incoming light more oblique when exiting the pupil (my speculation) than when entering (so at f2 the t-stop could still be about 1.2 on the bmpcc, as intended). I think it would be interesting to know how these new speedboosters behave in regards to brightness increase at wide apertures, if t0.74 really is possible when using a digital camera. Especially since low light performance could be a decisive factor when choosing between, for example, the 5d mark III, the BMCC and the BMPCC. And as a side note I am very satisfied with my speedbooster, despite the minor issues at f1.4.
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