tosvus

I remember the times that a livefeed was still something extraordinary.
Now it may perhaps be quite mainstream, but enough people know how to live without it. So I agree, theres no reason it really cannot be used at all.
That aside though, I also do not really see a reason for Panasonic just to leave out this option.
I can't imagine them just 'overlooking' this ('ah shit, now you can only use it for 'playback', not 'live recording', guess we forgot, good point'). Maybe they believe nobody wants to add a monitor or external recorder to a 'compact camera'? They're afraid to many people would use it as an aerial cam, crashing it and using the warranty to claim Panasonic has given them a faulty camera?
Not sure, I'd say techwise there wouldn't be too much to it. Perhaps it's even as simple as coding a few lines? Perhaps they'll even do that? They also didn't think the 4K Photo mode would be used for anamorphic shooting, so didn't give it a 24p mode. I can see them changing that, so if this really was an afterthought, then I do hope the people in need of such a thing will get it through a firmware update. But if not... remember, Panasonic never advertised the LX100 as being the 'ideal camera for aerial video', so being all upset and never wanting to buy something from Panasonic again is pretty uncalled for. I've seen people do great things with a DJI Phantom 2, H3-3D gimbal and a GoPro too... and again, people used to film without a livestream all the time, so it's still not impossible with the LX100 either.

I have checked many reviews, samples and specification before I bought this camera. If you would do the same, you would know about the lack of HDMI monitoring. Be angry on yourself.

It's always like that. When famous photographer says that camera X is excellent for portraits, I would still check if it has all features I need, like controls or focal length I'm using most often...

Here are some tests shots I did to see how stable I can be with the help of the internal stabilization in the LX100.

Yeah, you appear to be right, I can't seem to replicate that.
Perhaps this wasn't the case to begin with and ISO200 coincidentally just happened to be sufficient when briefly testing that, making it seem the camera locked the ISO to match the lit scene and not dynamically adjusting the ISO to keep a balanced exposure when starting to pan away to something lit differently (the test was to see if the ISO (auto) changed throughout; it didn't, auto-locking an initial ISO was an unfortunate assumption, not tested for (apparently)).
 
Although again I still prefer not to use any automated settings. I don't want to touch the shutter (flickering/motion blur), I know the aperture is not clickless (exposure jumps, losing set depth of field) and you can not add more light to f/1.7 (maximum aperture), in lowlight you don't want to cut more light with a ND-filter (it's like that one guy you know that wears sunglasses indoors) and if you're out and about doing some street stuff, you can't just add light to a scene (or do you just happen to always carry around a huge lighting kit?)... so I get the only variable left to touch and add light is the ISO. But then again, I also like to control noise and think it's rather noticeable if you change ISO mid shoot, but okay, you can make a creative cut to make it less obvious... but then again. You can also do it manually. Just 'feel' what the scene needs and just adjust any of the settings you'd rather not change. Sometimes I do not mind under- and/or overexposing during a clip when I know I'll be back to the initial settings a moment later (I find this rather natural anyways, on a sunny day with blinds closed at home, you won't magically adapt from in- to outdoors in a second, it takes a bit). It's different of course if the change lasts and you're still under- of overexposing. But again, then I just press a button, twist a dial and Bob's your uncle. Not really a that big of deal. Especially if you considered it for intial ISO and knew it wouldn't change automatically thereafter anyways. Would you really mind setting it? Do you think the auto-mode would be that much faster/accurate? Maybe due to funky metering it might jump up to a higher ISO than you think the scene needs (or a too low ISO). I don't know. I guess that more options and features is always a good thing and that (extreme) situations (where you need to start rolling quickly and adaptively, or an oppertunity could be left unused), might require certain wishes to be fulfilled, I personally can't really say I'm bothered by the amount of manual control.

Well, by having an aperture ring on the lens and always having live view with Zebra and a histogram, it can't be really faster to adjust the exposure on the spot.

Here are the two pieces I made today with the Sony FS7.  This camera is going to be a giant hit.  Everything about it is amazing.
  Charlie Chicken:   Small Moments (180 FPS):

So I tested the LX100 on real business this days. It performs pretty well, the sharpness is extraordinary but the focus pumps a lot if objects moves... so it is better to go manual. If you set the picture stile to superflat and raise shadows, the pics are astonishing good in 4K, in my opinion far better than GH4... the LX100 gives more natural colors, skin tones are better...
 
but im still not able to get any video out of this camera... I purchased the AV adpater, but nothing... has anyone of you been able to get a video out signal?

Impressive. I watched it in 1080p and it was extremely sharp.  I can't understand why some folks still say that the advantages in detail when downsampling from 4K is a gimmick.

My first week with the LX100: http://www.mirrorlessjourney.com/blog/2014/11/my-first-week-with-the-panasonic-dmc-lx100-1
:D

If you can use a DC coupler with the LX100 then such a battery pack could be used.  I've made a similar rig for my Canon ELPH 300 (for long time-lapses) and a pair of 18650 (3.7v) batteries in a parallel battery holder (essentially a 2 cell battery pack).  I also wired  another connector with an inline 3.7 volt BUCK converter so I could use a small sealed 12v battery for extremely long power needs.
 
The point is to supply the correct voltage with the correct connector tip and polarity for the DC coupler.  The cameras battery level indicator in all likelihood will be inaccurate though.
   
 
 
 
 

The Panasonic battery is 7.2V so may need a special battery - not sure what connector the dc coupler provides is.
 
Maybe something like this with an additional plug adapter;
http://www.amazon.com/Venom-3300mAh-6-Cell-Battery-Universal/dp/B0007U9OF0

I'm pretty sure there is a way because you can use a DC Coupler (http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/DMW-DCC11) and an AC Adapter (http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/DMW-AC10) with the LX100. Those parts are listed in the accessories in the manual. 

Thanks to Tosvus and Someguy for posting my videos here. I got the LX100 last Wednesday and I'm in the honeymoon phase. I did the Coffee video as a first test and I like the results. For the Baby Workshop video, I mixed the GH4 and LX100 video and honestly, I think the quality is very close if not the same. I shot both cameras with the Natural Color profile (which I keep reading gives better results than Cine-D) with Contrast -3, Sharpness -5 and NR -2. The only thing I did in post was adding a bit of sharpness and I crushed the black a little.
 
someone asked about the stabilization in video: It does a good job. the problem is the camera is so light and small, it's tough to get a good handle on it. What I did was used my camera strap as a stabilizer and for shots without movement, the result is perfect. Trying to walk around like that though is tough. I did not have time to try to balance my Steadycam with the LX100. I think I might actually have to put some weight above because I fear the LX100 will be too light.

So far, I love the camera. It is not perfect but it has a character of its own. If you want to see some pictures I took with it, I'll be happy to share. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them.

Hi Just a note not sure if any one has posted this if you are in the UK and you bought one of these camera,s you can claim the funky iris lens cap for free direct from panasonic uk   you have to claim it before the end of this month 
 
link  here 
 
http://promotions.panasonic.co.uk/offer/lumix-lx100-free-lens-cap-offer/
 
My LX100 turned up yesterday the original  review andrew  totally did it justice it is an amazing little camera and a serious bang per buck 
 
just from playing with it last night i know the footage is going to be interesting to work with 
 
i will post some test footage after some heavy grading and rinsing it thru resolve a few times ,maybe later in the week BTW i normally fiddle with alexa ,red footage and DPX,s  so this should be fun  i thought if people are interested  it would be good to do a work flow for this ...that any one can afford to do because i think it will be quite popular camera ..plus i have one Ha!

No wonder the footage is so jarring. Those values are insane. They might make some sense if you are using 4K photomode and only want to extract a single frame, but for video footage, that is fairly useless to look at. In this case, it would have made much more sense to run at 1/60 (since it is 30 fps), and the aperture should be a higher value to ensure all the footage is in focus. (Again, if it is all indeed on a narrow plane across the frame, and the intent was to look at a single frame for sharpness problems on the side, that makes sense, but looking at this for video quality makes no sense at all). If it is too bright still at say aperture 5.6 or 8 w 1/60 shutter speed, put on some ND filter. It looks like a bright day.
 
It is also clearly oversharpened, so he should experiment with less sharpness for sure.
 
It is fine to give opinion if it is based on a good foundation, I think. However, this clip, once I look at it in Premiere, shows:
-Oversharpened due to settings
-Corners seem a bit soft, but it could be the aperture chose makes this to be out of focus. In any case, while I have found this camera has good corner sharpness, it is not incredible. It can't compete with my gh3 and Nocticron there..
-I don't see any significant issue with moire. The little I see is likely from the fact that he shot very fast shutterspeed, and did handheld, so the jittering between each frame makes is stand out.
-Generally unpleasing picture, but again, due to settings. 
 
Conclusion: Don't base anything on this footage. Have you tried it yourself?? Have you seen all the great footage out there?

Ita149,

Where do you have all this information from? If he had lowered the sharpness why should it be "too soft especially for downsampling"? The word "especially" makes no sense at all in that sentence. Don't post stuff you are just guessing from a camera you did not run tests with.
The camera is still incredibly sharp even at VERY soft 4K settings when downsamped to HD. Compared it to C300 and an Alexa.

A great to see you here, Steffen, I had linked to your article in the other LX100 topic a week ago:
 
 
I agree with SteffenH and tosvus. You should not make assumptions based on a couple of videos where people either didn't understand how to shoot proper video, people that wanted an out-of-the-box-test, or those that just happen to like the very sharp detailled footage and embrace that it's 2014/15 and don't see anything wrong with that. You know, we're not used to all this new stuff yet. People still like the Canon softness and complain about The Hobbit being shown at high frame rate. But maybe all we need is a little time to adjust.
 
But anyways... there's a reason people dial back their settings. For example: contrast... you can not get back detail from blown out highlights or crushed blacks. Unless you're working in journalism and you need quick turnarounds or something, you'll want to put the contrast to its minimum setting. Same goes for sharpening, out-of-the-box the Panasonics are a little harsh on sharpness. When you dial it down your footage will start looking more natural and pleasing. This also should take care of most moire that usually is induced by applying sharpening. And remember, you can always add a little sharpening in post, but good luck getting rid of any picked up moire. So yeah, personally I like to dial sharpening all the way down. And like SteffenH said, that doesn't mean your footage becomes super soft, the detail is still there and it's still pretty sharp enough. You'd do the same with a GH4 and for the LX100 it's no different, really.
 
And then of course the 180 degree shutter rule, which basicly means you use double the value of whatever your framerate is... so 30fps you'd want to shoot at 1/60th (2x30). You can't use 1/48th for 24p, but 1/50 is close enough. This allows for natural looking motion. Movements within the frame start to look really organic, whereas high shutterspeeds will make motion look rather jittery. So basicly... first you decide at which resolution and framerate you're going to shoot. Then you use aperture to control depth of field, shutter for motion blur and a ND filter to control exposure. Lastly, when working in low light conditions you might want to ditch the ND filter, open up your aperture considerably, accept the narrower depth of field that gives you, keep the shutterspeed according the 180 rule and then use ISO to increase sensitivity to a point that you deem the scene properly exposed. And again, pick a picture profile that goes easy on the footage and take the effects of certain settings into consideration. Use common sense... if you see something you don't like, ask yourself 'can I do something to change that?', probably: 'yes, you can!'.
 
A camera is not a magic box. There's some science to it. But a camera has no soul (although I bet there's some people with Leica's about to hit me in the head for that), it has no taste, it has no consideration of certain factors. It's not telepathically connected to you. It needs you to work together, it needs you to give it instructions, tell it what it is supposed to do. And when the two of you work together in synergy, beautiful things will happen! But don't expect the camera to do it all without you, straight out-of-the-box. You need eachother. Be a team. If you suck, the LX100 (or any other camera for that matter) will suck. If you know your own limits and that of the camera, you're probably good to go, though. To me there's no reason for putting off buying the LX100 if you're worried about quality, in my opinion the LX100 is very capable of taking stunning footage.
 
But oh well, it's too late and I'm rambling. Sorry. :P I'll stop now.

I doubt this clip could be more relevant than on this forum right now.
 

The fact you can buy an imaging device for $900 that trumps most gear film making masters from the 70's and 60's would have loved to have is incredible.

Look, if you can't do creative stuff with a piece of gear like this, you got the problems, not the camera or lens.

I love technology and equipment too, but if you want to actually do something creative with motion picture making, fretting so much about which camera does this or that the best-- man, it is such a complete waste of time.

Although, to be honest, If you want bragging rights and affirmation that you own the latest and greatest imaging kit, that's something else, I guess. It does seem to be a popular pastime on tech-centric blogs.

I'm just amazed though--and what a wonderful time for real legitimate filmmakers (the ones that actually do stuff) -- for less than 2k one can easily buy a camera, editing system, light kit, and audio package.

What to do with all that capability? Use it or talk about it?

No wonder the footage is so jarring. Those values are insane. They might make some sense if you are using 4K photomode and only want to extract a single frame, but for video footage, that is fairly useless to look at. In this case, it would have made much more sense to run at 1/60 (since it is 30 fps), and the aperture should be a higher value to ensure all the footage is in focus. (Again, if it is all indeed on a narrow plane across the frame, and the intent was to look at a single frame for sharpness problems on the side, that makes sense, but looking at this for video quality makes no sense at all). If it is too bright still at say aperture 5.6 or 8 w 1/60 shutter speed, put on some ND filter. It looks like a bright day.
 
It is also clearly oversharpened, so he should experiment with less sharpness for sure.
 
It is fine to give opinion if it is based on a good foundation, I think. However, this clip, once I look at it in Premiere, shows:
-Oversharpened due to settings
-Corners seem a bit soft, but it could be the aperture chose makes this to be out of focus. In any case, while I have found this camera has good corner sharpness, it is not incredible. It can't compete with my gh3 and Nocticron there..
-I don't see any significant issue with moire. The little I see is likely from the fact that he shot very fast shutterspeed, and did handheld, so the jittering between each frame makes is stand out.
-Generally unpleasing picture, but again, due to settings. 
 
Conclusion: Don't base anything on this footage. Have you tried it yourself?? Have you seen all the great footage out there?

It is certainly not a toy for photos, I prefer it over GH3 for instance. For video, it is not a replacement for the GH4, and nobody ever said that. It takes almost equally fantastic 4k video, but lacks the features (that you must have repeated about a dozen times at this point).  You seem to have a problem grasping what the term "Compact camera" means. This is overall, everything considered, perhaps the best compact camera ever created. (At least if you are a hybrid shooter).  If you want to lug around a GH4, or even a FZ1000, that is a whole different segment. The FZ1000 cannot compete on stills, especially lowlight either.

Well, with the smallest system I know, the Velbon QRA-3, you'd be looking at something like this, so forget using any Q/R systems:

And mind you, that's mounted sideways even.
 
If you put a thumbscrew through a hole next to a cage cutout you're looking at something like this:

You can just barely get the SD in and out. If you'd use it like this, you'll be needing a screw that doesn't block the cutout, but it could work.
But then you're stuck with the camera on the cage more or less, because you haven't got a Q/R system and the screw would probably require a tool to remove.

I agree it is bad they do not have live HDMI out, and I can see that in your situation it is especially frustrating, but they are a FAR cry from Canon!
 
Worst case, you can start the recording before you take off, and mount a tiny camera w/transmitter on the quad copter - I have heard others are planning on doing this. Yes, it's a pain, but at least you can get the shot. Try to get 4K out of anything portable and affordable from Canon :)

I agree it is bad they do not have live HDMI out, and I can see that in your situation it is especially frustrating, but they are a FAR cry from Canon!
 
Worst case, you can start the recording before you take off, and mount a tiny camera w/transmitter on the quad copter - I have heard others are planning on doing this. Yes, it's a pain, but at least you can get the shot. Try to get 4K out of anything portable and affordable from Canon :)

Hi,
Couple of months ago, a photographer (nickname lenuisible) decode the wireless communication protocol between image app on smartphone and GH3 camera http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1. I took these, and adapted to my 13 years old remote control software (originally written in vb6 for casio qv3000).
After a couple of days, the software now finds the camera, queries its capabilities, and allows user to control the camera from windows PC.
It is a very simple program, you just see the commands (like focus, zoom, exposure, aperture, white balance etc...) and use them.
 
You can also record those settings and play them back later. You can tell the program to repeat those commands. So you can make timelapses by zooming in each shot, or changing the white balance when its dark outside.
 
For examplle you can adjust the focus between objects and then you can set the focus with one click like this:  http://www.dijitalakademi.com/P1640788.MP4
 
You can program complex set of commands and make it replay those (or replay and repeat)
 
I also added liveview from http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1, thanks to lenuisible.. You should just press "Liveview" button. But you have to have java installed in your machine. From the post,
 
"Java RE : download here : http://java.com/en/download/index.jsp
Add the java bin directory to your PATH, On a windows machine, the Java bin directory should be : C:Program FilesJavajre7bin"
 
I have a FZ1000 to test it, it works ok, but it should work with all wifi enabled LUmix cameras. So feel free to try it, and let me know how it works.
 
Before you run the software, you should enable wifi from camera, connect the camera either a wifi network, or your pc to your camera. Program should find the camera automatically.. If program gives "no response from camera" then check wifi connection, get closer to the router, try again..
 
you can download and install it from http://www.dijitalakademi.com/lumixcontrol.zip
Screenshot:http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~forums/54696040/62ebbbd324fa4551932accb5bf73f94b