anax276

This is a well written post with a lot of truth in it... The corona crisis revealed what was always there, above all the incredible amount of stupidity in the world.

BUT: Remember, this isn’t something new. It has always been this way in the course of human history. The difference now is maybe that we have a better overview, because we’re more „connected“ with every part of the world. We get a lot of information that we cannot handle... However, humanity has continuously improved through the ages. There always are ups and downs (such as wars), of course, but in general, I think the world is a better place. It is (in general) healthier, fairer and more educated, to name some examples.

So, don’t lose your courage and faith, we need every responsible and reasonable person to engage in improving the world.

7 hours ago, Snowfun said:

Or produce a short featuring a day-to-day activity in the style of a famous scene.

This is a great idea!

There are a lot of inexpensive green screen setups (including lights) on Amazon. I had one of these but the problem was that the cloth was very large and it had a lot of wrinkles after removing and setting it up again a few times. If you have the place to set it up and leave it there, there shouldn‘t be a problem. 

For me a setup like this was much more flexible and avoided wrinkles on the cloth (which can be very limiting in the keying process):

Elgato Green Screen Chroma-Key-Panel https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0743Z892W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TpIZEbNWVGBFC

or even simpler:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00E89Q5OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WqIZEbPZR7XDV

These are of course only examples.

Lighting is essentiell for a good keying and a single light most probably won‘t work well. I could get quite decent results with 2 lights, but 3 lights are best (1 for each side to light the green screen and 1 to light you).

As for the mic... I have the Rode VideoMic Go and it‘s OK if you‘re not very far from the camera and there isn‘t much noise in the room.

Hi!

My camera is an Olympus OM-D E-M5 (2012) with an old Canon FD 50/1.4 lens, used with a basic, cheap adapter.

With a bit of luck and searching you can find an E-M5 for €200 (or a bit less) on eBay. I bought the lens also on eBay for a low price (I don’t remember exactly how much). 

No other equipment or colour grading was used.

Thank you all for your nice comments!

OK, I‘ll do it.

But: Seeing the masterpieces you guys submitted I’m seriously afraid to lose my camera (it’s old and cheap and partly broken but I’m somehow fond of it), so I’m entering only for the jury prize... ?‍♂️

Shot only with a camera and a rather old lens. No grading.

Here it is:

Wow! Thank you guys for the tips! I’ll try and see what works best!

Dear forum,

I would like to shoot a scene set in a dark room (only lit by a torch/flashlight). (It’s supposed to be a burglary scene.)

The problem is: If I shoot in the dark, I will have quality problems, since I’ll have to use high ISO on a Panasonic GH5.

What would you do? Shoot in the dark with high ISO and try to fix it with a denoiser or shoot with more light and fake the darkness in post?

And no, I’m not going to buy a GH5S or a Sony for this! ?

Thanks for any tips!

Very interesting, thank you for this test. Modern Panasonic lenses should (hopefully!) perform better for AF on the GH5(s).

Furthermore, there are many different settings for continuous AF in video on the GH5. Which one did you use? I still haven’t figured out which setting works best...

For me as a hobby filmmaker this could be very helpful, because I often find audio more difficult to manage than image. Many hobby filmmakers have the same problem.

I also think that a good description of when to use which preset would be very helpful and save time.

1 hour ago, jonpais said:

Sorry, but I watched the video and read your article. The bottom line is that Linus fully expected and was willing to pay for repairs, but Apple wouldn’t accommodate him. Voiding the warranty because of trying to repair something yourself is clearly a violation of US law. As Trek of Joy says, not sure whether this is the case in Canada. Either way, it’s absurd. 

Well, yes, and I am neither a lawyer nor living in the US, but as far as I know, they weren't trying to repair it, they just opened it for a video. And they did not just open it, the completely disassembled just for fun. And they damaged it by doing so.

If so, this is a different story than trying to repair something that is broken yourself and it is a violation of the terms of service. I read the article cited by Trek of Joy and as I understand it, the law is not a "get out of jail card" in any case, there are restriction. 

And, according to this article, there ARE spare parts etc available for this iMac:

https://www.macrumors.com/2018/04/18/linus-tech-tips-imac-pro-repair-video/

To imply that the iMac Pro is not professional, as the YouTubers did, is at least exaggerated.

This is just another case, in which one should check the facts before reaching a conclusion and believe something someone on a YouTube Channel says...

Obviously, Apple declined to repair the iMac because "Linus Tech" took the iMac apart, damaging it in the process and "typically if a Mac is taken apart by someone other than an authorized technician, we can typically no longer service the Mac." In these cases, Apple understandably cannot take the responsibility that the iMac will work again faultlessly. 

Read the whole story here: http://appleinsider.com/articles/18/04/18/apple-refusing-to-fix-youtubers-imac-pro-claims-low-on-facts-light-on-details

Another case of a YouTuber wanting attention, I would say.

Thank for the suggestions, I will try grading after adding VFX and see how it goes...

Hi,

I don‘t know if this is the correct forum to ask this, as it is not really camera-related, but:

How do you grade footage with VFX in it? Is it best to grade the video part first and the add the VFX later (which can be cumbersome if you then realise that there are editing changes needed) or is it best to complete the scene with VFX and grade it then? The problem with grading after adding the VFX is that the look of VFX (e.g. explosions, virtual interfaces, 3D models) may alter significantly after grading, especially if the video was shot in log or a flat profile.

What do you do it?

Thanks for any tips! 

The biggest argument (apart from some specialised video features of the GH5) for me in favour of M4/3 versus FF is the size of the lenses. I don‘t like carrying around heavy stuff und found M4/3 to be a good compromise... But maybe the times have changed?

Are Sony lenses comparable in size and weight with the equivalent m4/3 lenses?

1 hour ago, IronFilm said:

Any good documentary maker would likely keep on filming too. Many war corespondents will of course tell tales of exactly the same situation, where they couldn't put the camera down but had to pick it up to capture the story even under horrible circumstances (often quite the reverse, as the more horrible it is, the more important it is they report on it!).
Now of course Logan Paul isn't a doco maker, he is a "YouTuber". 
But in a way, that is kinda sort of the "same thing"? As a vlogger he is making a mini documentary, every single day. 

Look on the upside perhaps? He is bringing more attention to Japan's terribly high suicide rates, maybe will do his tiny part in helping open a discussion to do something about it. 

Oh, and as for censorship, I don't believe in any of that. "We don't have free speech to talk about the weather".

I don’t think you are getting the point Andrew is making. It is not about censorship, it is about egoism, greed and lack of decency.

It is not plausible that L.P.’s intention was to bring more attention to the high suicide rates, it is rather obvious that he wanted to bring more attention to himself.

War correspondents do not laugh in their videos, as far as I know. Also, even war correspondents sometimes cross the line and exploit situations and it still isn’t right just because it is their profession.

Thanks, I will try that and see if it works for me!

Hi,

I ended up with a large number of LUTs and it has gotten very confusing... Especially since I would like to use different applications from times to times (PremierePro, FCPX, Resolve), which require the LUTs to be in a specific folder to work properly.

How do you organize your LUT collection in order to find the LUT you want easily and to use it with different applications?

I would like to avoid having multiple copies of the LUTs. I guess I could throw away some LUTs, but I... don't want to! :-)

Thanks!

8 hours ago, OliKMIA said:

Check your FPS settings: PAL, NTSC, Cine. For 120 I believe you must set it to 24p

OK, thanks! That must be the reason, I had 25 fps...

Thanks for the great overview. By the way, how do I set the 120 fps VFR on the GH5? I can only select 100, 125, 150, 175, 180 fps.

Hahaha! Very funny!

Does it also come in an ANALmorphic version? ;-)

Very interesting answers, thank you very much!

Hi,

I often read people discussing about the video look vs. the "organic" look of different cameras. Although I think I somewhat understand what they mean in general terms, can someone please explain this to me in a few words? What are the main characteristics defining the different looks. I mean apart from 24/25p, 180-degree-rule, lighting... What makes a sensor (or a lens) give the one or other look? Is it contrast, colour, sharpness, grain? And can't you transform a "video look" to be more "organic" in post (e.g. with FilmConvert). 

Thanks for your help. I am an amateur filmmaker trying to improve my skills and knowledge.

Thank you for this article! These scores often left me wondering what exactly is going on... 

That's one of the reasons I prefer real-world tests/experiences (like the ones at EOSHD) over obscure scores, comparisons of technical specifications and theoretical discussions about cameras by people not actually using them.

Hi,

I noticed significant differences in colors/contrast when viewing my videos on computer monitor(s) and on TV sets.

People use various equipment for viewing videos (online or not): mobile phones, (Smart) TVs, computers... How do I avoid such (sometimes annoying) differences? Using a TV set as a reference monitor for grading? Calibrating the computer monitor to match TVs (but how)? Any suggestions?

Thanks!