Hans Punk

Just finished my 2nd round of shooting for my short. I had a little more trouble correcting these images as I shot a lot in lower light than the first round. But here are a few shots that turned out okay...



I will say that I think ML Raw has ruined me for other cameras. 

Here are a few iscorama pre-36 shots thrown together for those interested - I took my camera and Rama to a local car meetup with this thread in mind. My injured back prevented me getting the low angle dynamic shots and closeups I wanted, but you get the idea. A sunny day with lots of chrome is always a good test to see if a lens has any CA or highlight/contrast edge bloom issues. There is some fine alias/ line buzzing artefacts due to warp stabiliser being used on almost all shots (no tripod and was high on painkillers).
I'm sure the Bolex can match the iscorama (perhaps beat it) on sharpness, but as I've always noticed with the Rama - it tends to simply be as sharp/clean as the taking lens that you use with it. My other kowa lenses with Core DNA attached could have achieved similar results, but not at such wide aperture on 58mm on FF - and definitely not in such a compact and light form factor as the Iscorama. 
 
 

Here are a few iscorama pre-36 shots thrown together for those interested - I took my camera and Rama to a local car meetup with this thread in mind. My injured back prevented me getting the low angle dynamic shots and closeups I wanted, but you get the idea. A sunny day with lots of chrome is always a good test to see if a lens has any CA or highlight/contrast edge bloom issues. There is some fine alias/ line buzzing artefacts due to warp stabiliser being used on almost all shots (no tripod and was high on painkillers).
I'm sure the Bolex can match the iscorama (perhaps beat it) on sharpness, but as I've always noticed with the Rama - it tends to simply be as sharp/clean as the taking lens that you use with it. My other kowa lenses with Core DNA attached could have achieved similar results, but not at such wide aperture on 58mm on FF - and definitely not in such a compact and light form factor as the Iscorama. 
 
 

Here are a few iscorama pre-36 shots thrown together for those interested - I took my camera and Rama to a local car meetup with this thread in mind. My injured back prevented me getting the low angle dynamic shots and closeups I wanted, but you get the idea. A sunny day with lots of chrome is always a good test to see if a lens has any CA or highlight/contrast edge bloom issues. There is some fine alias/ line buzzing artefacts due to warp stabiliser being used on almost all shots (no tripod and was high on painkillers).
I'm sure the Bolex can match the iscorama (perhaps beat it) on sharpness, but as I've always noticed with the Rama - it tends to simply be as sharp/clean as the taking lens that you use with it. My other kowa lenses with Core DNA attached could have achieved similar results, but not at such wide aperture on 58mm on FF - and definitely not in such a compact and light form factor as the Iscorama. 
 
 

Here are a few iscorama pre-36 shots thrown together for those interested - I took my camera and Rama to a local car meetup with this thread in mind. My injured back prevented me getting the low angle dynamic shots and closeups I wanted, but you get the idea. A sunny day with lots of chrome is always a good test to see if a lens has any CA or highlight/contrast edge bloom issues. There is some fine alias/ line buzzing artefacts due to warp stabiliser being used on almost all shots (no tripod and was high on painkillers).
I'm sure the Bolex can match the iscorama (perhaps beat it) on sharpness, but as I've always noticed with the Rama - it tends to simply be as sharp/clean as the taking lens that you use with it. My other kowa lenses with Core DNA attached could have achieved similar results, but not at such wide aperture on 58mm on FF - and definitely not in such a compact and light form factor as the Iscorama. 
 
 

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Shot some this evening. 5D mk3, Contax Zeiss 50mm with oval aperture mod.
 

Love it!

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Iscorama Pre-36 with Helios 44 @ f2.8 (oval aperture) on Canon 5D3

To get that sharp on my (sharpness tweaked) Kowa Inflight or Kowa B&H with Core DNA attached I'd need to stop down to at least f5.6. Sharpness is indeed often overrated, but it's sure nice to have and can always be softened in Resolve very nicely. Iscorama still has perfect balance of sharpness but with organic feel due to vintage coating. More modern cinelux type lenses are as sharp, yet look very clinical (to my eyes at least).

Love it!

This is my debut work, that took me 2.5 years to finish. I've learned so much from this community, that I just had to post it here.
This is a music video for the band where I sing. Shot on BMMCC with contax glass, rangefinder and isco s8 2x. Big shout out to @Tito Ferradans @richg101 @ken and @Hans Punk. You guys are all listed down in credits for providing so much help with getting into the whole anamorphic thing. I was making those credits in hurry and totally forgot to include @Bioskop.Inc so a special thanks and an apology goes to you!
 
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19W3wq4XkO8
 
My name is Philip and I am a 21 year old passionate photographer and videographer. This march I travelled to Dubai with a friend and shot this video. I focussed on framing and architecture.
Hopefully, you like the BW aesthetics.
 
Lens: Helios 44-2
Anamorphic adapter: Kowa 16-S

Hi, Hank, 
Here is the independent encoder unit, which can be rail mounted on the side to record rotational information of the focus ring. I also provide two controller packages for order, package A & package B. package B is the one without the motor unit, and it's part 0009 at http://www.rapidotechnology.com/home
I can modify the controller parameter to work with your Berkey motor, I can also provide an additional motor cable connector, which you can wire it to your Berkeley motor. Thanks. 
Jim 
Rapido 
 
 
 

SOLD!

Any tie down/ratchet straps will work...can be found at most DIY places. Magic arms with clamps at both ends are good for support and C-stand knuckles and rods can make lots of funky rigs possible...but maybe overkill for your needs.
Maybe try the tripod and straps first for a test...as 2-3 decent straps will cost under 20 quid. Maybe some carpet or padding to go between seat and tripod if cranking the straps super tight (to stop any dents/rips in seat upholstery)  If that solution does not look practical maybe look into that headrest mount.

Either way I would test out before the shoot as much as you can.
Unless monitoring wireless away from the car...you won't be able to see 'live' the amount of shake or vibration that gets picked up. It's well worth testing out and reviewing footage to make sure any rig solution is working. You should be good in minimising shake if using a very wide lens like you mentioned.
Strapping a hefty lump (tripod and head) firmly to a large fixed point (passenger seat) is going to give better stability...it may not look as pretty, but it should do the job. Any fixed single clamp/bracket/arm is often perfect for GoPro weight cameras, but for anything heavier tends to make the rig vibrate. Ideally you may want to ratchet-strap the collapsed tripod to the passenger seat rear and maybe use additional straps/clamps to door handles or other fixed features inside the car as long as they are not in vision of your lens.

Did something similar a while back for passenger POV and had no time to pre-rig anything. I ended up removing passenger seat headrest and ratchet strapping the tripod (folded closed) to the back side of the passenger seat. Tripod head and camera was then free to occupy the space where the headrest used to be. A bonus of the setup was that the tripod head could also pan and tilt by an operator in the back of the car, approximating the head turns of our passenger's POV whilst in a car chase. 
For your needs it could be similar setup...but with an extension or longer plate on the tripod to give the camera a bit more overhang, closer to where the passenger's head would be. Magic arms are good, but not the best for camera support on their own if car is moving...they tend to vibrate. Magic arms (used in multiples) are great for additional support and cranking down a grip for 'on the fly' rigs like this. If the car is to be moving, it is generally best to strap down a hi-hat or tripod solution where multiple points of support from straps and clamps can be employed...something where vibration can be minimised as much as possible.

Did something similar a while back for passenger POV and had no time to pre-rig anything. I ended up removing passenger seat headrest and ratchet strapping the tripod (folded closed) to the back side of the passenger seat. Tripod head and camera was then free to occupy the space where the headrest used to be. A bonus of the setup was that the tripod head could also pan and tilt by an operator in the back of the car, approximating the head turns of our passenger's POV whilst in a car chase. 
For your needs it could be similar setup...but with an extension or longer plate on the tripod to give the camera a bit more overhang, closer to where the passenger's head would be. Magic arms are good, but not the best for camera support on their own if car is moving...they tend to vibrate. Magic arms (used in multiples) are great for additional support and cranking down a grip for 'on the fly' rigs like this. If the car is to be moving, it is generally best to strap down a hi-hat or tripod solution where multiple points of support from straps and clamps can be employed...something where vibration can be minimised as much as possible.