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burrencrawler

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  1. burrencrawler
    Yeah that was useful to me too, thanks rich.
  2. burrencrawler
    The threads are of different tilt so they will only turn a couple of times, then get stuck, while ruining the soft brass threads on your lens, so when you say its worth a shot, it is, with a gun, at the birdie. Until the Chinese start making decent low cost 16U to MFT adapters, the only place to get good ones (not cheap) is here: http://rafcamera.com/en/adapters/mft/kiev-16u-to-mft-mount-adapter
  3. burrencrawler
    Wow, now that is the coolest thing I've heard as i just ordered one of those Rafcams adapter rings for $65!!!! what a burn, this is way better, and now I can have three instead of just one. i got that same set of 16U lenses, cant wait to use them....
  4. burrencrawler
    The one thing i will say is that after finding out which lenses vignette on what sensors, you could look at what step up rings to get. If you have a 52mm prime lens, and it need to be stepped up to 62mm depending on if you are using a Bell & Howell or a 16H/8Z, get onto ebay and order the right step up ring that steps it up in one ring. The alternative is to use a 52-55mm ring, then a 55-58mm ring, then a 58-62mm ring, by then you have used three rings instead of one, and your anamorphic lens will be one centimeter further away from your prime lens than it needs to be. They need to be as close as possible for best sharpness results. You can order 49-62mm step up rings on ebay, and also 52-62mm, there are also several others they may coma useful, it is always best policy to order more than you need as they are cheap, and if you dont get the right one you could be waiting for up to three weeks to get one. Better spend the extra couple of bucks to have them 'on the shelf'.
  5. burrencrawler
    Forgive using this thread for this off topic question but I really can't find somewhere to post it. Perhaps i should start a new thread? (except i dont know where the 'start a new thread button is', they dont make it easy for you to find) I am thinking that there is money to be made out there for someone who can come up with a really simple anamorphic clamp for the Kowa 16H, or Bell & Howell anamorphic lens (or other makes like bolex, sun, sankor, isco ect. etc.). It is this simple: you get an adapter ring made that goes from your taking lens (49mm, 52,mm, 55mm or 62mm whatever) which screws directly on to the outside screw of the anamorphic lens. Now the only snag is this: you cant turn the lens around till you get the squeeze going in the right orientation, soooooo, what you do is use a lens that needs and adapter which can be rotated, for instance the M39 or M42 adapters have three small allen screws on the side than can be simply loosened so the whole lens can be spun around. This would not only ensure getting closer to your taking lens from the back of the anamorphic lens, but it would make things much easier and cheaper, buy three or four of these rings for $2 each (which is less than it costs for any adapter ring) and you have a load of lenses covered, including the famed Helios 2/58, Sears 55mm F1.4, Pentax super Takumars, Canon FD F1.4, Schidt Optiks, Yashica, and a whole bunch of other ones.......Any takers for why I may be talking crap?
  6.    Julian reacted to a post in a topic: The Diopter Thread.
  7. burrencrawler
    Also FilmConvert is great for playing with grain or imitating old favourite film stocks.
  8. burrencrawler
    What about shooting with the GH2 anamorphic hack in Mjpeg? that way you don't have to piss around with changing the aspect ratio in post? look here: http://www.eoshd.com/content/3515/2-661-for-2x-anamorphic-on-gh2-rebooted
  9.    Tito Ferradans reacted to a post in a topic: The Diopter Thread.
  10. burrencrawler
    Bought these, and saw your post 5 minutes later, strange.......
  11. burrencrawler
    Wow Tito, you really are a mine of information, this is better than going to college. :)
  12. burrencrawler
    Iti, Your Kowa Prominar is best with the FD35/2......and its not too wide? what F-stops? and when you say "28mm is my favourite FL on MFT with anamorphic, 35mm + 0.71 speedbooster on BMCC." what do you mean, and what is FL?
  13. burrencrawler
    Doh! I sometimes feel like SUCH a nube.......
  14. burrencrawler
    To do this one would need about $1000 worth of ring adapters, lens clamps & kits, for every different diameter lens "in ones' arsenal" to try out with a 16H/8Z lens.
  15. burrencrawler
    That looks lovely, i could almost live with the vignette, which could be even devignetted in post.
  16. burrencrawler
    Again, I'm confused. "85mm is what is needed" to avoid vignetting, then Vid atlantic say a 50mm lens gives 'a little' vignetting, while saying the Helios 58/2 is a good match for the 5D. So how can the Helios 58/2 be a good match for the 5D and also be the 'recommended' lens for anamorphic use with M43 format? I mean one has twice the crop factor of the other and people are recommending the same lens? I am missing something, and brains is only a small part of it.
  17. burrencrawler
    OK ,so some are saying for M43 the minimum focal length is 35mm, others 42mm. There is a big difference between these (between 70mm to 84mm equivalent of M43). Can someone confirm which is right please? As i said I just want to know all these BEFORE I go start ordering lenses that may not turn out to work well with the 16H Kowa anamorphic lens. Thanks
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