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Shooting ML Raw Anamorphic Advice


Chris Elkerton
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Hi,

I will be shooting a project using ML raw in few weeks and wanted to get a bit of advice on workflow.

I will be shooting on my 5D Mark 2 and Lomo BAS 80mm.

I have just bought a 32GB Lexar 1000x CF card, and am going to buy the Lexar UDMA 7 reader to go with it. Any thoughts? I've always used Lexar cards and had no issue.

Any advice on workflow, ML settings, conversion tools, latest advancements, any lessons learned along the way.....

I am going to shoot mostly in 4:3.
Then for close shots, maybe as high res as possible? Then desqueeze and crop to suit after. (lens is closer to 1.6x squeeze factor when at min focus). How do you guys approach this?

I have used ML before but not for a while, and never with raw. Ive heard the workflow can be painful. So any advice you think might help me come post is more than welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

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Chris, I've written a lot about this process, for my graduation work. Unfortunately for you, it is in portuguese, but google translator might work well.

 

ML hasn't changed drastically since I wrote about it (six months back), and I believe things are easier nowadays.

 

The link is here, and pages from 86 to 97 should help you, regarding configuration and post-processing workflow (using rawanizer, premiere and after effects).

 

I haven't used raw recording in a while, but the MAIN issue for me was stability. Sometimes the camera freezes, and you have to reboot it, or take off the card, or take off the battery, or both. And you should not be alarmed. Keep an eye if recording is continuous, and set it to stop if it drops any frames.

 

Also, you might want at least one extra card, since 32gb goes really fast, and emptying it takes a little while.

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Hey Chris, 

 

I'd recommend doing a ton of camera test. Personally, I love the ML raw anamorphic workflow. It reminds me a lot of what it was like to shoot on film. It's really a disciplined flow and a scary one at the some time, cause you really don't know if you got the shot till the footage is "processed". 

 

 

I haven't shot ML on the MK2, but with the MK3 I've had some really fun times. I've been using the komputerbay 64gb cards with great results. I get about 12 min of footage while shooting at the highest possible resolution. My post workflow is: convert to DNG's with RAW magic, quick color pass in Davinci, edit in CC Premiere then final color grade and final render out of davinci. Sometimes, after my first color pass I export the clips from davinci as profess and edit as proxy files then relink in davinci for the picture locked final color grade. It's kind of a clunky work flow, there's a ton of other and more efficient ways I'm sure but I like this method. 

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Hey Tito, thanks man I will definitely give that a read. Lets hope Google translate is up to the job! 😄

Thanks Anthony. Good advice i will definitley be testing before hand. 12 mins on a 64GB card!!! Oh shit, 6 mins on a 32GB, that is not gonna cut it. 😥 Better buy more cards!!

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Hey Chris, 

 

I'd recommend doing a ton of camera test. Personally, I love the ML raw anamorphic workflow. It reminds me a lot of what it was like to shoot on film. It's really a disciplined flow and a scary one at the some time, cause you really don't know if you got the shot till the footage is "processed". 

 

 

I haven't shot ML on the MK2, but with the MK3 I've had some really fun times. I've been using the komputerbay 64gb cards with great results.

 

Pretty much agree with everything said. My workflow is a little different (I don't get along with Davinci), but until this point, I'd say the same.

 

Hey Tito, thanks man I will definitely give that a read. Lets hope Google translate is up to the job!

Thanks Anthony. Good advice i will definitley be testing before hand. 12 mins on a 64GB card!!! Oh shit, 6 mins on a 32GB, that is not gonna cut it. Better buy more cards!!

 

Yes, buy more. Get Komputerbays, they're MUCH cheaper, but beware because some are bad and won't keep up the required speed.

 

If you come across a particularly bad translated part, tell me about it, and I'll try to beat google translator on the job. hahaha. :)

I was supposed to translate this whole thing, but I'm lacking the patience to go through 100 pages. hehe

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Pretty much agree with everything said. My workflow is a little different (I don't get along with Davinci), but until this point, I'd say the same.

 

 

Yes, buy more. Get Komputerbays, they're MUCH cheaper, but beware because some are bad and won't keep up the required speed.

 

If you come across a particularly bad translated part, tell me about it, and I'll try to beat google translator on the job. hahaha. :)

I was supposed to translate this whole thing, but I'm lacking the patience to go through 100 pages. hehe

ah okay, I heard bad things about the Komputerbay card so I avioded them. They seen to do a new 1050x card now that may be more reliable? I have been reading through for document (although I am supposed to be working!!) It's very helpful, thanks! Google translate makes me laugh sometimes, but it mostly makes sense. ;)

 

You will need at least 3 64GB cards. One in the camera, one transferring on set, and one for backup/emergency.

 

Make sure you're running USB 3.0 as well.

Thanks for the advice, I am frantically looking for cards now, problem is I leave for Bulgaria (where I will be shooting) on 24th!! Amazon! I will have my new Macbook Pro with be, so dumping dow should be a breeze :)

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, I love this forum!

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please post results... and your workflow when you are done

i get the heebie-jeebies when the camera freezes with ML...

also make sure to benchmark the Komputerbay cards with ML,as soon as you get them, some of them fail to deliver and you will need to ask for a replacement 

 

as far as i know they are lexars that didnt pass quality control, i own one

good luck!

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please post results... and your workflow when you are done
i get the heebie-jeebies when the camera freezes with ML...
also make sure to benchmark the Komputerbay cards with ML,as soon as you get them, some of them fail to deliver and you will need to ask for a replacement

as far as i know they are lexars that didnt pass quality control, i own one
good luck!


Hi Christina.
Haha, you are freaking me out! This isn't for the faint hearted is it. 😥 The Lexar better not be bad, I will be really pissed if it is!! It arrived today so I will have a little play.
I will certainly post my findings and results on the workflow. Hopefully some nice footage as well. 😀
Thanks for the advice.
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chris i dont want to freak you out completely but the komputerbays are a bit of a russian roulette! check them because they fail,

and when i mean fail they dont reach the required speeds or fail alltogether, check the 1 star reviews in amazon

hence the cheap price...if you have money to spare try to get at least one propper 1000x true lexar, since this is a professional gig

 

best of luck

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chris i dont want to freak you out completely but the komputerbays are a bit of a russian roulette! check them because they fail,

and when i mean fail they dont reach the required speeds or fail alltogether, check the 1 star reviews in amazon

hence the cheap price...if you have money to spare try to get at least one propper 1000x true lexar, since this is a professional gig

 

best of luck

 

I have had no problems with the several 64gb cards I have purchased. I believe the 128gb ones do have problems though

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I have 5 (well, 4 now, since I sold one) KB, and had problems with some of them. Their guys told me to format them using a USB3 reader, on a USB3 port, and they should come back to normal. And it did work, flawlessly, in more than one occasion.

 

None of mine had speed issues, though. So I can't advise you on that matter.

 

Lexars are way too expensive.

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chris i dont want to freak you out completely but the komputerbays are a bit of a russian roulette! check them because they fail,

and when i mean fail they dont reach the required speeds or fail alltogether, check the 1 star reviews in amazon

hence the cheap price...if you have money to spare try to get at least one propper 1000x true lexar, since this is a professional gig

 

best of luck

Haha, no worries Christina. It's good to know what you're up against, this is just the information I was looking for, so thanks.

Not too worried as it's only a personal project. Still want to get it right though. ;)

 

I have had no problems with the several 64gb cards I have purchased. I believe the 128gb ones do have problems though

Thanks Silverstones, I hope this is the case with mine. :)

 

I have 5 (well, 4 now, since I sold one) KB, and had problems with some of them. Their guys told me to format them using a USB3 reader, on a USB3 port, and they should come back to normal. And it did work, flawlessly, in more than one occasion.

 

None of mine had speed issues, though. So I can't advise you on that matter.

 

Lexars are way too expensive.

I have heard the same thing about card readers. I have a new one on its way, apparnetly it needs it to be UDMA 7 compliant. I have also heard the same about connecting via USB 3, apperntly the slower speeds of USB 2 can corrupt cards.?....

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Chris, I've written a lot about this process, for my graduation work. Unfortunately for you, it is in portuguese, but google translator might work well.

 

ML hasn't changed drastically since I wrote about it (six months back), and I believe things are easier nowadays.

 

The link is here, and pages from 86 to 97 should help you, regarding configuration and post-processing workflow (using rawanizer, premiere and after effects).

 

I haven't used raw recording in a while, but the MAIN issue for me was stability. Sometimes the camera freezes, and you have to reboot it, or take off the card, or take off the battery, or both. And you should not be alarmed. Keep an eye if recording is continuous, and set it to stop if it drops any frames.

 

Also, you might want at least one extra card, since 32gb goes really fast, and emptying it takes a little while.

 

Amazing document you wrote Tito. Thanks.

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If your lens is really a 1.6 stretch then you will want to shoot with a ratio of 3:2 or wider. 3:2 with a 1.6x squeeze will give you a 2.4 aspect, 4:3 will give you a 2.13 aspect and would be non standard unless  you crop. With ML you have so many choices for resolutions and aspect ratios that I would personally choose the settings that require the least amount of cropping. Cropping can be useful but you will be maxing out the potential of the camera so every little bit of savings will help, ML raw is very data intensive.

 

If you shoot 3:2 at 1600 resolution that will be about 68 MB/s at 24P, this will be continuous with MLV and sound even with Global Draw on so you can use focus peaking, magic zoom etc. I haven't used ML raw lately but it was a little unstable with Global Draw on - dropped random frames. I am not sure it that has been fixed in the last few months or not, worth checking into.

 

After that is 1728 resolution and that will  pull about 79.7 MB/s which will not be continuous allowing maybe 10 seconds before dropping frames. Not worth it IMO. 

 

So, I would personally shoot 3:2  - 1600px at 24P with MLV and sound using global draw if you have no external monitoring and if it is now stable enough (may require some testing on your part). Even if you are recording externally I would record audio in camera as well. It helps tremendously for audio syncing and can be done automatically using plural eyes. For now I would test and experiment as much as you can. ML raw is awesome but it is data and time intensive and will really slow down post.

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If your lens is really a 1.6 stretch then you will want to shoot with a ratio of 3:2 or wider. 3:2 with a 1.6x squeeze will give you a 2.4 aspect, 4:3 will give you a 2.13 aspect and would be non standard unless  you crop. With ML you have so many choices for resolutions and aspect ratios that I would personally choose the settings that require the least amount of cropping. Cropping can be useful but you will be maxing out the potential of the camera so every little bit of savings will help, ML raw is very data intensive.

 

If you shoot 3:2 at 1600 resolution that will be about 68 MB/s at 24P, this will be continuous with MLV and sound even with Global Draw on so you can use focus peaking, magic zoom etc. I haven't used ML raw lately but it was a little unstable with Global Draw on - dropped random frames. I am not sure it that has been fixed in the last few months or not, worth checking into.

 

After that is 1728 resolution and that will  pull about 79.7 MB/s which will not be continuous allowing maybe 10 seconds before dropping frames. Not worth it IMO. 

 

So, I would personally shoot 3:2  - 1600px at 24P with MLV and sound using global draw if you have no external monitoring and if it is now stable enough (may require some testing on your part). Even if you are recording externally I would record audio in camera as well. It helps tremendously for audio syncing and can be done automatically using plural eyes. For now I would test and experiment as much as you can. ML raw is awesome but it is data and time intensive and will really slow down post.

Thanks dhessel

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