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Baby Isco 8/1.5x price?


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Gang - Need a bit of pricing help for a possible sale. Have a Baby Isco 1.5x and no idea what it could be worth. Looks to be in decent shape. No glass separation but there appears to be some webbing on the glass, probably from fungus. Not surprising given I bought from a guy who lives in Brazil. No dramas, though, the webbing hasn't grown.

I've shot it on an older M4/3 and FF cameras and the picture is fine. Worked way better on the M4/3 than FF. Since I'm a FF or occasional S35 shooter this thing has to go.


So the question is, based on the photos here what's it worth? I don't see it often on the eBay and thought our collective hive mind could help. This isn't a "for sale" post but when I do sell I'll post to the eBay.















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“So the question is, based on the photos here what's it worth”?

As it stands, those web marks will effect the flare and image on that already soft lens.

I guess it’s worth what anyone wants to pay for it. I’ve had a few of these lenses in the past, one in a similar state to yours that I disassembled, removed fungus, cleaned and re-lubed back to good working condition. They are not the easiest lenses to work on for a first timer though, since they are so small and quite delicately engineered. FYI I never paid more than $350 for my mint copy of that lens (3 years ago).

If it was me, I’d list the lens ‘as is’ (with those detailed pics you already have) - along with some stills or footage as to how the image and flare look in its current condition. A starting bid of $300 might get interest going, but that would be dependent if a buyer is willing to take a ‘risk’. You can minimise the perceived risk and increase the value of your lens if you can prove it can still currently make pretty pictures...despite the less than ideal condition of the optics.

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2 hours ago, Grimor said:

Sorry for offtopic, @Hans Punk, but i need to relube my Rectilux DNA helicoid and i can't find recomended "mobil 28" grease in europe.

Can you recomend a good grease?

For Rectilux I’ve used basic white Lithium grease that can be found almost anywhere. A good quality synthetic grease like that is sold in cycle shops or DIY stores. You can buy it in small tubes and the grease itself has a similar consistency as hand cream. In my experience, more specific greases that have thicker viscosity and higher drag values are often harder to thin to get to a desirable friction.

There are quite a few synthetic grease brands out there that can work equally well, the trick is (especially with Rectilux) is to coat a very small and even amount throughout the helicoid, then work the action until is becomes smooth. It is always best to ad a tiny amount at first, and then build up the amount of you want more resistance. 

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