Jump to content

EphraimP

Members
  • Posts

    335
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EphraimP

  1. Is there a solution for lossless or virtually lossless transcoding? That's one of the things that frustrates me about video, coming from a stills background where I could shoot in RAW and edit in TIFF and export JPGs for final delivery. Working with log 4K 422 ProRes files is nice, but it's still like working in a JPG format if every time you export you lose info.

  2. I need a bag suggestion as well. I'm sick of breaking down my X-T3 rig and rebuildinging if for every job. I need a bag that can hold a mirrorless rig with 15mm rails and a v-mount. I've been running a Ninja V and expect I'll at least have to take it off the rig, but it would be nice to leave the rest together. Other essential kit included one or two xlr shotgun mics w/pistol grip mount, cables, headphone, 70-200mm zoom and 25mm mini-cine lens, wireless lav, 2 small on camera LED lights, and other standard kit. Space for a Ronin-S in its balanced configuration would be a bonus. Space for a Mavic 2 Pro would also be a bonus.

     

    How do folks like the Port Brace bags? I'm in the Pacific Northwest and do nature/forestry type work often, so water is an issue.

  3. 47 minutes ago, IronFilm said:


    Am going to get one myself soon, so I can report back some personal findings. 

    One of my good buddies who is also a local sound mixer, really likes it himself. 
     


    Such as? I can't think of anything notable about Deity Connect Wireless which has been reported as an issue with 2.4GHz

    Remember "2.4GHz" is simply a frequency, and there are many many MANY different ways to implement how it is used. 

    It is like saying "UHF is bad" just because you had a few bad experiences with a UHF system, or heard some reported, doesn't mean all UHF is bad


    Don't get a cardioid lav mic

     

    Why not a cardioid lav mic? I ask because I'm trying to learn as much about sound as possible.

    Also, I'll be very curious to hear what you have to say about the Deity Connect system. I was originally planning to by it because of it's cost to value ratio and because I've been pretty happy with my S-Mic 2. I thought I've read some negative comments about the Connect system on the board and also several recommendations not to buy the first version of a Deity product because they come to market without all the bugs worked out and the second generation is always better.

  4. 15 minutes ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

    I think you'll do fine. 

    Probably. I like to overthink things. ?

    12 minutes ago, androidlad said:

    You can use Interframe Noise Reduction, since you're not going to film crazy action shots, it'll be very effective in controlling noise.

    I've never played with Interfram Noise Reduction. How does it work in camera and what are the pros and cons?

  5. 2 hours ago, mkabi said:

    I'd actually do a couple of test runs to see what works and what doesn't.... obviously the event isn't tonight right?

    If it is tonight, then well... can't do any test runs.

    But if its in a week from now, I would go back to the tap, see what works and what doesn't work every night till then... I mean.... you don't have to waste your entire night doing it, just bring your XT3 (its small and fairly covert)... do about 30 min. to an hour every night, try different angles, certain places have more light than others, bring external lights if you can. See what works and what doesn't and exploit the hell out of what works on the actual night.

    Good luck.

    If I had time and it was a regular paying gig I'd do that. It's this Saturday and they're only going to give me about $300 (in installments) plus a bar tab and hat for the video. And besides my day job I have a two-video job due before veteran's day that I need to wrap edits for. So I probably won't be able to spend a ton of time testing. 

    I'll see what I come up with using a combo of lowest shutter speed (within 180 degree rule) highest T-stop, and using the mini led lights we won't use for the photo booth. Plus maybe trying out Neat Video in post if necessary. It's one of those things where if I don't like the end result I won't charge them anything and will chalk the whole thing up as a learning experience with teh setup.

  6. 1 hour ago, scotchtape said:

    Expired 19/11/6, required promo code that i'm assuming is unique.

    Typical. That's a bummer. I see that the version with the cardioid lav mic, the ME 4, is bundled with a $100 B&H gift card, so it's at least somewhat discounted. But I've seen some pretty negative reviews of it. Anyone had experience with either the M2 II or the ME 4, or both? I'm wondering if B&H is willing to discount the ME 4s because they didn't sell well.

    Maybe it will drop down again during holiday/end of year sales.

  7. Haven't played with Neatvideo yet. Sounds like I may put a little bit of the cash from this gig into it if need be. Too late to get a speedbooster and lenses, but I'll probably use my Meike 25mm T2.2 mini-cine prime and do everything in 24p.Definitely no Peter McKinnon-ing at 120p for that extra crispy b-roll.

  8. Not s

    On 11/5/2019 at 12:43 PM, scotchtape said:

    Got the email from BH today, Sennheiser G4 on sale for $450 

    I've been kicking around getting the G4. I trash all my promo email frequently, so I didn't see the B&H sale. On the website, they are showing up at full price. Was it a flash sale or something?

  9. Yeah, the test shots I took really quickly at 6400 were 1.5 to 2 under. I'm sure that's part of why it was getting noisy. Any opinion on whether recording to the Ninja will give me files that are easier to make pretty if I do get some noise?

  10. Some friends who run a tap house are having an event this weekend and they asked to borrow my studio lighting kit (nothing fancy, just a Godox SL-60 and soft-box) so their event photographer can set up a photo booth and take pictures of people dressed up as vikings. Since I'm going to be there, they asked if I wanted to shoot them an event video, including shots of the live music they'll be having. 

    The place is crazy dark inside and there won't be any stage lighting as they'll be setting up a makeshift stage. I have two small on camera style video lights that I can swap between for candid shots of people at the bar, getting their faces painted, eating giant turkey legs, etc. I don't think the lights will be of much use trying to films the musicians. 

    What's the highest ISO you've gotten away with for professional/semi professional shoots? I think ISO 1600 is great, up to 3200 is doable if you don't underexpose too much, but 6400 starts to get noisy.  Has anyone been able to use 6400 or higher ISOs? Does the X-T3 denoise easily in Premiere? I can either shoot to card in camera or to my Ninja V if higher quality ProRes or DNxHR files will make a difference in post.

    Thanks in advance for your input.

  11. Since I picked up my Ninja V last week, I've shot some projects in ProRes, both 422 and Light. I know that theoretically DNxHR is made for PC systems, but my first project was a long concert with multiple acts and ProRes Light gave me the best combination of file quality and size to capture the whole event on a 1T drive. It's time to start editing.

    My normal editing workflow is to open up each video file after I download it to an editing drive so I can scan it to see if I want to use the footage. The only player on my laptop that opens ProRes files, besides NLEs, is VLC player. But VLC player is really struggling to play the files, so it's really unusable for my workflow. I could load them all into Premiere, but there is some hassle involved with that in terms of deleting files I don't want. 

    Is there a better player for ProRes that folks here use for weeding through their clips?

  12. I have a 25mm version of the Meike for X-mount that I use on my X-T3. Personally, I like the damping on the focus ring, but I do use a Tilta Nano Nucleus to focus it. The all metal body is nice and overall the lens seems well built. It's a little tank and pleasure to use. It helps me understand why you'd want to use a cinema lens instead of a photo lens. 

    I've shot some tests with a Datacolor SpyderChecker card with the Meike and my 18-55 Fuji kit lens to compare color and sharpness, but haven't gotten around to analyzing them in depth because I've become really busy with video work. I'll get around to it at some point. Maybe. 

    Like billdoubleu said, the lens is plenty sharp. It definitely has chromatic aberration in the form of purple fringing. It's not horrible, but it is there. At under $400, it seems like a pretty good deal. The reviews I've seen indicate that it's actually a better lens than the SLR Magic Microprimes and other mini-cine lenses under $1,000.

    If it wasn't for the Veydra controversy, I'd definitely be interested in checking a few more focal lengths out if they got around to putting them out in X-mount. If they are truly Veydra ripoffs, I suppose it's possible someone could make lens mount swap kits like Duclos did for Veydra. The screw pattern on the back of my 25mm looks different from that of a Duclos X-mount, so I'm assuming that they changed that up a little. 

    I didn't know they were a complete rip off when I bought mine. It's a tough position to be in when you're trying to put a high quality kit together on a budget. It sucks to help people profit off of taking someone else's intellectual property and hard work. I've got the cine lens bug hard now.

     

  13. 1 minute ago, androidlad said:

    It has to be PD compatible power source (9V) for continuous power without battery depletion. Regular USB power (5V) can only trickle charge.

    That makes sense. I'm using an older Anker battery with a fast 5V port and a regular one. And I'm pretty sure the Ronin's port is only 5V. Guess I'll stick to the dummy battery and V-mount for super long stuff, which really be very often. I had a second Fuji battery, which would have been helpful, but lost the damn thing taking shots while backpacking. Oh well.

  14. 38 minutes ago, steeped-prod said:

    I have a handle that comes out of the side of the Ronin s like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Lightweight-Stabilizer-Extension-Ronin-S/dp/B07JB7H5XY/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=ronin+s+handle&qid=1571270768&sr=8-40

    It gives me a flat surface on top that I just put a piece of velcro tape on and then velcro tape on the battery. I use the smaller anker battery which sits there perfectly and gives me about 4-5 hours. I will go through two obviously on a full day shoot, but never have any issues with it being awkward or falling it off, works really well.

    I have the SmallRig handle that mounts to the bottom of the Ronin. It has cutouts, so not a lot of space for something like velcro. I suppose if I really put my mind to it, I could come up with a solution. 

    Speaking of running the camera off of usb power, has anyone had the experience of the battery running down over time, even though it was plugged into a power supply (usb or v-mount) that still had plenty of charge. I had that happen this weekend and the camera wouldn't run anymore. Luckily I had a dummy battery that plugged directly into the DC power of my v-mount battery plate.

  15. On 10/11/2019 at 2:47 PM, BrunoCH said:

    Be careful and do tests. I had a problem using the DJI power supply via USB. All my data on the  two cards are erased by switching off/on the DJI to power the XT3 (like explain to 10mm15s in this video). Not all time but twice during my tests. I will never use this technique. And anyway now I have the cable fuji ronin sc to trigger rec on off.

    I appreciated your warning this weekend. I tested it out and didn't lose any clips, so I used it on my weekend shoot. Definitely didn't lose footage, but it didn't keep my X-T3 powered for the whole shoot so I had to switch to my handheld rig with a v-mount battery. I do have an Anker power bank I've used with it before. Seems kind of clunky to gaff it to the gimbal though.

     

  16. On 10/10/2019 at 8:54 PM, thebrothersthre3 said:

    Haven't had any issues on my Ninja 2, the thing I am more worried about is the micro HDMI connection on my fuji. But yeah its pretty solid. 

    After using the Ninja V on a concert shoot this weekend, I'm feeling the pain of the micro HDMI connection. I had used the monitor a day or two before for a corporate shoot at an acupuncturist's office, and didn't have any problems with it locked down on sticks or with a bit of handheld to get b-roll. 

    The first evening of a two-day concert event I got booked for, the mini HDMI end of the cable came out multiple times and the metal male insert ended up bending. I think a big part of the problem the 90 degree bend in the Atomos cable. It bends in such a way that it exerts pressure on the connection and basically "wants" to break it. And is so thick that the recommended SmallRig cable clamp for my cage doesn't fit it. I can't find a clamp that will work. 

    Luckily, I didn't pay for the damn cable, I found a package deal from Adorama on Amazon that bundled the cable with the monitor for the normal price. I'm definitely going to ask Adorama to warranty the cable. Can anyone recommend a legit to mini HDMI cable with a straight emd that will record 4k 60 and isn't 10 feet long?

     

  17. Thanks for the tip, androidland. That's too bad. I thought they'd added support for the S. It would have made sense to get the SC if I was buying new, but I've had the S for a while and was hoping to get that feature. I guess it's back to the wonky solution triggering record from on top of the camera. At least I figured out how to power the camera with the rss usb cable that came with my Ronin. It's a pretty annoying work-around, but here's a link to a video explaining how to do it (using the SC as the gimbal) that I found on YouTube. Explanation starts at 8:34: 

     

  18. I finally updated the firmware on my Ronin S and am excited to finally be able to start/stop recordings with Ronin. However, when I plug the cable into the camera and turn it on, I get a USB symbol on the back screen and nothing else. When I go into the menu and select PC Connection USB tether shooting auto, I get a screen again, but the controls are locked off on the camera and the record button on the gimbal takes a photo, but doesn't start shooting video.

    Does anyone know the proper settings to get these two devices playing nice together?

  19. I haven't used the Ninja enough to get any connections problems yet. I got a package deal from Adorama that included the Atomos cable with the 90 degree micro HDMI cable end and I do worry that the bend is in the wrong direction and may cause problems with a connection down the line. I picked up the HDMI cable clamp that SmallRig recommends for their X-T3 cage, but it doesn't work with the Atomos cable because of the bend. I definitely want to find one that works.

     

  20. I just received the Ninja this weekend and started playing with it. Used it on a commercial gig tonight. It's pretty user friendly and easy to set up. The touch screen can be a tiny bit wonky at times and there are no physical buttons. It's nice to have 4K files that my computer doesn't hack up like hairballs.

    The biggest surprise for me is how noisy the fan can be. Even recording audio off camera with a hypercardioid mic I'm having to get room tone and scrub the noise in Audition.

    A lot of people think the new Blackmagic Video Assist 12G HDR  will be better, buI got the Ninja instead of waiting for because I might have a job this weekend that calls for unlimited recording and because it can do DCI 4k 60. For some reason, the 12G HDR won't do more than 4k 30p in DCI. The Ninja and a 1T WD Blue SSD is still less than the Blackmagic 5 inch with no storage

    The 12G HDR does take both UHS-II cards and USB-C flash disks like the Samsung T-5 though, both of which almost everyone has in their kit already. Honestly, if the BM comes into stock in the next few weeks and people can confirm it's not as noisy as the Ninja, I might return the Atomos and try out the Blackmagic. 

  21. I just received a Ninja V for my X-T3 rig and I'm pretty excited about the potential for it to make some of the video making I do better. I also picked up a V-mount plate and battery to run the whole rig. The plate a Fotaga DP500III, which I picked up because it has several DC power out options, including 8V 5A, 12V 5A, and 5V 2A. Is it safe to plug the Ninja into the 12V 5A with Ninja's included continuous power adapter and an un voltage regulated DC cable? This is probably a silly question, as the point of the different power options on the plate is to serve the correct power option; however I'm really clueless when it comes to electricity (I once caused a short in my 220 dryer circuit while changing a pigtail and almost barbecued myself) and don't want to toast a brand new monitor. Atomos's info on the Ninja lists power at 10-19W and voltage at 6.2-16.8V. Where does Amps fit in.

    Also, the Juicebox battery I picked up isn't really playing nice with the plate. From Amazon feedback, it could be that battery's pins are out of spec width wise or out of alignment with the ports on the plate. Anyone have experience with either plate or battery? The plate's catch doesn't seem to work and it take some force to seat the battery so it powers the plate, which doesn't seem great for the long term. I'm not sure which of the two pieces of the system is the problem and should be replaced for another brand.

    I like the Juicebox because it seems liteweight for being an non-mini v-mount and comes with a charger. The Fotaga plate, like I said, has lots of power options, which I like. It also has an option to power continuously through an included power adapter, which would be great for event filming and also should be able to recharge the battery with the same adapter.

    Teething problems...

     

×
×
  • Create New...