eatstoomuchjam

Nice! Even outside of boom use, I have an s-mic 2s that I use with my C70. Guess I know what I'll get to use with the k-x as soon as I get an xlr adapter for it!

Can't you do 4k raw from fs700 with Ninja and/or Video Assist? I thought it did 4k raw up to like 120p, though I don't remember if that was continuous or only for a few seconds.

The C70 seems less sharp, for sure, beyond being 4k vs 6k. Colors are a little punchier straight out of camera. I don't have a Xyla 21 and haven't done anything scientific, but I think the C70 has a little more dynamic range (but the difference is less than I expected). Both sensors are a bit wider than a standard APS-C sensor (26.2mm for the C70 and 27.03mm for the K-X) so with a focal reducer, the field of view/dof of the lenses is a nearly perfect match for full frame. Also, C70 has rolling shutter, but I think it's around 16ms - so it looks mostly fine when shooting moving stuff/moving the camera around. It has the advantage when overcranking to 120fps that it doesn't need to crop in at all, but the disadvantage of turning off DGO and losing dynamic range (though then the RS is even less, like 8ms or something). This weekend, maybe tomorrow, I'll do my side-by-side test and would be glad to post a couple of frame grabs (before and after using the color chart tool in Resolve). Gotta' hand it to those folks - I've done some crazy stuff to get the shot, but I'm not sure I'd be up for standing in the middle of a bunch of fighting apes.

One can only hope that they didn't lose Jerry's invitation in the mail this time. Their event just won't be the same without him sitting on a couch not shooting anything and distracting other people who are just trying to generate a quick marketing piece.

I'd say the same about the term "filmic." It's usually used by people who clearly never shot on film and seem to think that all film looked the same. But Portra (negative film, low contrast) and Velvia (positive film, high contrast) don't even remotely look alike. In fact, I'd be willing to bet that half of those people would see images shot on Velvia and damn them as being insufficiently filmic. 😉 Similarly, FP4, HP5, Delta 400, and T-Max 3200 all look very distinct from each other - including that the first two are traditional black and white films and the others are modern t-grain films. Even within the same black and white film stock, choice of developer is extremely relevant. Anyway. People use "cinematic" and "filmic" in camera discussions like people used "old-timey" in O Brother Where Art Thou. They just mean it's something they like, but for some reason, won't just say that.

Between the K-X and the C70? Do you mean to see how well they can match? For that, I'll probably just set them up next to each other on tripods with similar lenses at a similar t-stop and shoot myself holding a color chart. Then I'll use the Resolve color chart tool on both and look at them side-by-side. If I think that they're similar enough that a normal person wouldn't find it jarring, that'll be good enough for me, especially for a 48. Fair enough. There's no wrong choice there, it really just depends on one's goals. I only bought the C70 last year when it was already pretty dated (mine came from a rental house for a great price). With Canon, there's no knowing whether the new version will really improve anything that one cares about and what things that you liked will be removed for seemingly no reason. But at least a new model would be likely to push down prices even more on the used stuff. I'm watching Chimp Empire now. Looks beautiful. Wonderful example of how great the C70 and C300 are for run and gun.

My specialty. Apologies to those who hate topic drift. I missed it completely, but it sounds like something I'd like a lot! Thanks for the suggestion! I'll probably start it today. That makes total sense. It's a super easy camera to use and the majority the ergonomics are really well thought-out. It just kind of gets the job done without any fuss and gives you a really nice image. About the only things I'd change would be to add an EVF and some built-in wireless image transmission. Oh, and if I'm wishing out loud, make it 4.6k to allow some reframing in post with no quality loss when delivering 4k. Along the same lines as the above, I'm shooting a 48 hour film thing here in late June and the producer got me a first AC. Since I have no use for an actual AC, I'll just be promoting them to second shooter and handing them the C70. I just need to make sure it's straightforward to match it to the K-X which I'll be using (should be, the sensors are really similar sizes and Canon and Red both skew a bit magenta).

Please let us know how it goes for you!

This is exactly why a lot of people doing events/weddings/etc just use 2 bodies, one with a wide angle zoom and the other with a tele-zoom. Do you need the lens to be fast? If not, if I remember right, Fuji have an 18-120/4 and an 18-135/3.5-5.6 for XF mount. I'm assuming that the former is the "professional" version since it has a fixed aperture. You're not going to get ultra-shallow DOF with F/4 on APS-C, but you'd have something that's close to a 27-180 on FF. In the US, at least, one can rent cameras and lenses by mail order through a company like lensrentals.com. Their rates are, generally speaking, a lot better than my local rental houses - though you are at the mercy of shipping times so one needs to plan ahead a little bit. Is there anybody like that in France/Europe? Could mitigate the need for a local well-stocked shop.

I can't speak to the GF 45-100 or the 100-200, but the 32-64 is pretty shockingly good. I don't know your workflow and how much work you're willing to do in post - but with 100 megapixels, just about every lens is effectively a zoom lens. The GFX is about the fastest medium format I've ever seen (not counting things like the Koni-Omega Rapid series), but any Nikon or Fuji APS-C camera is going to be a whole lot faster, and the A7RV that you mentioned will still be faster. Similarly, depending on the amount of post production you're wiling to do, you could capture in raw, extract your stills, and then re-encode it to h265/prores/whatever. Seems like a big hassle to me, though.

I've certainly done stills grabs from 6k and 8k cameras to put on social media or similar. I'm not sure what I could possibly tell you about it that you don't already know, though. If doing it from 10-bit video, it'll be a lot like a jpeg from a decent mirrorless. If doing it from raw video (as a tiff or similar), in most cases, it will be a bit like a raw from a moderate/decent consumer camera (12-bit). One big difference is that when shooting still images, I usually just leave the camera in aperture priority all the time and adjust ISO up/down as computed shutter speeds suggest. In video, I'm much less likely to use an automatic mode and always manually expose (and if I did use an automatic mode, it would be shutter priority). One thing I haven't done/tried yet is to take out the K-X and use it as a motion-photo camera. The raw video files seem to be a little more flexible than what I get from most of my mirrorless stuff. There's no way it's going to compete with my GFX 100 II, but maybe it's enough for just stepping out and goofing around/street stuff. I have an EF-S 24/2.8 on the way - might give that a try with the EF-RF adapter with internal vari-ND.

Having used neither so based entirely on images and specs, I would take the UMP over the Pyxis any day. I gain a screen that makes sense, internal ND filters, redundant media (2xCF and 2xSD and USB-C), and a crapload of buttons and I lose 6K (but still have a little extra for cropping in post to 4k)? I guess the mount options for the Ursa are also less good - EF, PL, F, and B4 - so no good way to use most vintage lenses (except Leica R and Olympus OM (and of course Nikon F since it includes vintage))... but I bet I could design and 3d print something for that. That's what I did for the Z Cam flagship series before they released some useful mounts. Anyway. I still haven't used either camera so it's really just navel gazing... but for me, if you set both in front of me and said to pick one, I would hesitate for less than 1/10 second.

I would be really curious about that. The Z-Cam E2 (and E2-M4) do some sort of HDR mode from the Sony sensor which works by doing some trickery with different exposures on multiple pixels of the quad-bayer sensor. It works really well, but results in some funky artifacts sometimes. They're mitigated by using a higher shutter speed, but never fully go away. Sony's page on ClearHDR from Starvis 2 seems to indicate that it's more like a real DGO, though, so that could be pretty exciting. A 16-bit output would also put things more in Red territory. Most mirrorless systems only use 12-bit readout from the sensor in video modes.

From what I read, they handled it poorly.

IMO the phone is exactly the right camera to use for those moments. The quality on modern phones is so good that I would barely even think of it as a compromise. IBIS is still really uncommon on cinema cameras. Komodo/K-X are global shutter which makes shake feel a little more organic, IMO, and if one can deal with higher shutter speeds, they also record gyro information so you could use gyroflow or similar. Lack of IBIS can also be a feature in some cases - like I'd be unlikely to mount a camera with IBIS on my car before driving down a rough road. I've heard stories of that sort of thing wrecking the IBIS mechanism. But yes, they are converging for sure. It'll be interesting to see the knots people tie themselves into to explain how it isn't "true REDcode raw" as soon as Nikon announces a camera (or firmware for an existing camera) which adds it. I'm coming from the perspective of hiking with the original GFX 100 for the last few years so my perspective on which cameras one can carry around all day might be a bit off. The GFX 100 body weighs more than the K-X body (though the K-X weighs more with battery+screen) It sounds like you might be frustrated by the startup time and weight of it too. It's faster than the K-X, but probably not "take a shot in 2 seconds" fast. I still would say "a bit weird," but not so much "surprising." 😄

That may depend on the camera. I have no experience with their older stuff, but DSMC3 isn't nearly that slow to use. I've even been taking the K-X on hikes and from my shoulder bag to recording takes about 2-3 minutes. Of course, I'm not running with a sound person, video village, etc. If I were on a half day indoor natural light docu-type shoot with it, I'd bring it with the EF 24-70/2.8 on a focal reducer. Camera setup and teardown time would account for 5-10 minutes of the day. I'd probably have to swap a battery midway through. The problem may not be the camera in this case, but the person who is using it. 😉 That said, if someone didn't insist that I use it, I'd be far more likely to grab my C70 for that kind of shoot (also with 24-70/2.8 and focal reducer). It's hands-down a better camera to use in a fully uncontrolled environment. Setup/teardown time would be almost identical.

The latest Fuji mobile app can do the same thing or at least something similar, even with the GFX series.

Could also do something in the style of "Our Robocop Remake" where we take a single script (they remade something that existed, we could do something new) and each shoot a scene from it in our own style.

Yes. About 60 seconds, I'd say... but my batteries last 2-3 hours so while I'm shooting, I just leave the camera on. If shooting raw, the camera is fully ISO invariant (that is to say, capture is at native resolution and ISO is raw file metadata). I haven't shot anything in ProRes to comment otherwise. I'd be a little surprised, though, given that the display output looks fine. Yes. Though you could mitigate this by shooting in the lower quality 6k modes which make the files substantially smaller. Disks are pretty cheap these days so I'm not too concerned. I set the camera to MQ (170MB/s) when I got it and unless shooting some SFX thing, I wouldn't anticipate ever changing it. LQ is around 110MB/s and ELQ is about 50-60MB/s, I think. Also yes. Though it depends on your definition of "higher," I suppose. Full resolution 6k can go up to 80fps. 5k is only a slight crop and can do 96. But if you need 120, 4k is a noticeable crop - and while I haven't used 240fps at 2k, that's a pretty huge crop. If you make frequent use of frame rates > 96 fps and don't want to work with a crop, it's definitely not the best choice you could make. Other things worth mentioning that don't bug me much yet, but might bug you: Manufacturer recommends black shading sensor any time there's a ~20 degree (Fahrenheit, guess that'd be about 11C) shift in temperature which could be annoying if moving in and out of buildings on a hot day, for instance. On the K-X, it takes about a minute. I think the OG Komodo is a bit slower and older Reds would take more than 15 minutes IIRC. Not a lot of buttons on the body for quick settings changes Wifi with the included antenna is hot garbage so monitoring by phone/iPad isn't usable. After swapping to a better antenna, I'd describe it as "tolerable" if not using the phone as a wireless monitor, there's no HDMI - just SDI. If you want 4k for crisp punch-in focus confirmation, that means 12g sdi... so if you don't want to spend $1k+ on a monitor, you'll be using a Video Assist 12g. Though the nice thing about that is that you can use the VA for a 4K ProRes backup of what you're shooting.

Do we all want to shoot a single theme/genre? Come up with a single script that we all shoot in our own styles? Seems like there should be something to tie them all together - if not, what is there to make it different from what we'd all normally be shooting anyway?

Many of the YouTubers that are doing these reviews do a sponsor readout as part of it. Adsense might not be making a lot of money, but I'm guessing that Squarespace or NordVPN or similar pay alright. Maybe you didn't do sponsor readouts, but a lot of those people do. So the equation for them would become "How many videos will I get out of this free trip where I can do a sponsor read vs how many would I make at home with sponsor reads in the same time?" and not "How many pennies will YouTube share with me from AdSense?" I have terrible news for you. The Komodo-X, at least, is just as easy to use as many of my other cameras, right down to having mediocre autofocus/face tracking (I'd say a little below Fuji level, definitely not Canon/Nikon). I never used the OG Komodo, but enough is similar that I'd assume it's about the same, generally. (That's not to say you should get one - just that usability is really pretty alright)

I would never claim to have any sort of Redcode "prowess." With the K-X, just like most of my other cameras, I'm kind of a hack. 😉

I don't think I ever said "wild." Just "weird." It's a lot less weird to me to go from Red to Sony (or almost anybody else). It's just weird to me that anybody would move from any non-Black Magic brand to Pyxis, in particular - I just think Pyxis is pretty lame and there are a lot of better options at the same price or lower. Heck, other than "shoots internal raw" and "has lame high-res touchscreen on the side of the camera," the E2-F6 from more than 5 years ago is a far more capable camera. Anyway, this isn't a Pyxis thread so I'll stop. Anyway, for a certain YouTuber crowd, it seems like their business really is making videos every few months about why they're changing to a new camera from the old one. Then they make a series of videos extolling the benefits of the new camera and selling their guide for it and/or lut pack or whatever. Then a few months later, they move to the next shiny new camera and repeat. Videos about "Why I sold my ________ and changed to _______" are right up there with someone calling their camera a "beast" in terms of things that will inspire me to ask YouTube to stop suggesting their channel to me. 😅

You got me curious enough to watch it. "I'm just gonna sell my Red Komodo-X because this is absolutely fire." He mentions that it's a cheaper camera near the end, but he really seems to be pumped for the Pyxis. Like I said, still seems like a weird choice to me - but he's welcome to do what he wants for a camera.

I'm no psychologist and I don't know the guy personally so I am no more qualified than anybody else to talk to motivations, but I took it as fully tongue-in-cheek, but if you take something else away from it, you're at least equally right (and maybe more right, who knows?). 😃 Sure, but so am I - and so are you, and so is every other person. The most important thing is to understand how people are full of shit. This is a huge problem. Factor into it that for a lot of people, especially if they could only afford one camera, they might have done research for months before they finally got it. For a lot of those people, a suggestion that they didn't make the right decision can instantly put them on the defensive and cause them to lash out. I'd guess that a huge majority of online dick waving contests about cameras stem from this sort of sensitivity. To follow on that, at least for me, any time anybody refers to their camera as a "beast," whether it be YouTuber or commenter or whatever, I instantly devalue most of what they said before/after. Cameras aren't beasts. They are tools. One should understand the positives and negatives of the tool and base purchase and usage decisions on those things.